Hyundai - Sonata :: 2010 - Lunging Forward And Stopping With Sudden Thump When Press Down Brakes
Jan 29, 2013
My parents have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata. About a month ago my mom noticed that when she starts to brake, the car stops fine but then it stops again almost, with a loud thunk. The best way to describe it is that you press down the brake, the car stops, then a few seconds later the car feels like it is lunging forward and stopping again with a sudden thump. (Although I don't think it really actually moves at all).
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I have a 2010 santa fe with 19k miles.....twice this week i was driving and suddenly the gas pedal stopped working and engine light came on. brakes worked. Have "Sudden Unintended Deceleration"??
After the first event, i had it towed to the dealer (following protocol in the manual). they reported a new recall (it had been serviced a few months ago), executed a computer update and all was fixed (or so i thought).
4 days later, with less than 100 miles driven since the repair, it happened again. this time i was in 35mph traffic so when the accelerator pedal no longer worked, i almost was rear-ended. i was able to coast out of traffic (brakes and steering fine)to a side street. i was able to coast home (.5 mile or so). car would accelerate after stop signs, although the gas pedal doesn't respond at all. very scary that it even shifted to a higher gear and would go 30mph and keep accelerating if i didn't brake!
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What's going on. Out the past 2 months or so I've been getting this creak/tinkering noise weird to explain when ever I would press the brakes and turn the wheel while at the dealer getting my idler pulley replaced under warranty I told the service writer who passed it on to the tech after I got the car back still made the noise they said my brake pads were separating a little that was causing the noise yesterday I was waxing my car and I started to clean the wheels and then scrubbed the capiler a little I noticed the brake clips looked nasty I went to clean them and while doing that I heard the same kind of noise that was my issue I sprayed a little wd/40 on the clips and wala my noise in gone I was thinking since here in NJ we got so much snow and they use salt maybe the salt dried up any grease on the clips and that was causing my noise I plan on getting new pads soon regardless but this solved my issue of the noise.
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My F-250 super duty has a bump thump when I stop if I release the the brake it goes thump bump? Does not do this if I put it neutral. Seems to do this in Acceleration from a stop, shifting goes bump sometimes, When hitting rough roads does not seem there bump thump suspension issues?? Already greased the drive spline joint the same, checked if there is anything loose nope, checked spare tire secure , 75,000 miles stock shocks?? something in the transfer case?? The rear end just had the seals replaced??? Tranny is secure??
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I have 2008 Hyundai Sonata. I hear some noise from front wheels when i turn to right or left with breaks applied. There is no any noise when turning without break. the cv joint has been replaced but no any result. Still there is noise.
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I have a 2012 Prius with 15000 miles on it. In the year I have had it, I have had this problem a few times. On rare occasions while I am braking the car seems to lurch forward. In particular I have noticed it while braking and hitting a bump. The problem is that when this happens the car seems to jump forward while the brakes are being applied. My foot is on the brake when it happens, but I am not braking suddenly. That rules out any anti-lock braking. I have had the dealer look at it but since it didn't happen on their test drive they couldn't figure anything out. They did open a case on it in case anything comes up.
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I'm driving a 2010 Hyundai Sonata and just recently one of my brake lights has been acting up. Everything works perfectly fine as long as the head lights are off; however with the head lights on, when I depress the brake pedal my driver's side tail/brake light goes out. The center brake light and passenger side brake light work just fine regardless of the head lights being on or off. With the headlights off, all the brake lights operate normally when the pedal is depressed.
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I have the not-so-uncommon grinding brakes problem too. In my case, however, there is a scarier difference: if I have to stop suddenly and hit the brakes hard, I hear the grinding and the car kind of shakes, but then as the car is decelerating, I will actually get the feeling that the brakes have totally disengaged, and the car will lurch forward! If I then depress the brakes quickly, they will engage again and stop the car. I've had a couple of close calls in heavy traffic when cars in front of me have stopped suddenly.
I guess that the grinding might be the ABS, but I've never heard of ABS causing your brakes to konk out completely! It's to the point where I'm scared to drive the car if I know there's going to be much traffic. I bought this Elantra last October to have a nice new car to drive my 6 and 4 year old around, so I'm very unimpressed, and scared, with the whole situation.
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2010 F150 for the past 15,000 miles I have been experiencing a nasty repetitive surge when moving slowly forward with the brakes on, as you would do going through a drive through. The truck shakes when this happens and is very noticeable. Ford reprogrammed the transmission module, and now the surge happens twice as fast. What was the remedy? This is my first Ford after only GM products for the past 30 years.......and I hope they can find a resolution soon.
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My 2000 300M has 135k miles on her. With the a/c on when I come up to a traffic light and stop, it feels like i have to press harder then normal to keep the car stopped at the light. the other night at a light I put the car in nuetrel and the engine rpm went from 700 rpm to 1500 and up to 2000 rpm. There is no check engine light at this time. the car does not to this when the a/c is off. I have not scanned the car yet.
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There is this incessant squealing and grinding coming from my brakes. I have taken my 2010 Hyundai Accent to FOUR different mechanics and none of them have been able to figure out what is wrong with my brakes. I have replaced all of them and each mechanic has cleaned and adjusted them. But THREE days after, every time without fail, it is back as bad as it was before. It is only the rear right brake drum that is doing it still and I have no clue what to do. Something is definitely wrong with this car.
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I just got a 2010 Hyundai Sonata, and it drives fine, but when idling there is an ever so subtle (but noticeable) vibration that seems to be coming from the engine. I read that there was a BBB arbitration case that ruled that some Hyundais had a defective motor mount, but I'm not sure. Should I go get it checked out? The dealers at the lot I purchased it from just told me it was normal and that it'll just be that way for a 4 cylinder car sometimes, but I think they're just trying to sell cars...
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata with about 100,000 miles. Recently, it started doing funny things when I tried to start it. It would take a few tries, sometimes, or it might start immediately- very unpredictable. Someone suggested I try starting it in neutral, so I did that. It seemed to work for awhile, so the idea was maybe it was a switch in the car that can go funny and make it so the car won't start in park. Switch replaced, so everything's fine, right? No, still not starting on the first try. I took it to a car parts store to get the battery tested. The guy said, the battery is shot and is definitely the problem (he also said the starter was okay and he thinks alternator is also okay).
So I bought a brand new battery and had it put in... STILL NOT STARTING! Sometimes it will start in neutral, sometimes in park. It does not seem dependent on the temperature, the amount of time it's been since it was last started, or anything else that I can figure. However, if it is hooked up to a jump start, it will start immediately with no problem, in park. New switch, new battery. Is it likely the alternator? I'm trying to figure out how big of a hit this might be to my checking account. Other than this problem, the car runs perfectly. I'm confused that people keep diagnosing a problem and it still doesn't work. And that I might have replaced parts that weren't broken to begin with.
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What the fix is for my 2007 Mercury Montego Premier? When the car is in drive and the car is either stopped or at a slow speed such as at a stop light or pulling into a parking space, the car lurches forward. It is almost as if the computer is telling the car to step on the gas. I am concerned for my 16 year old daughter to be driving the car and have the car suddenly accelerate and get into a collision.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata with 88,400 miles and I am hearing a knocking noise in my rear right wheel whenever I apply light to medium pressure to my brakes (I don't hear anything when I brake hard). It started a year ago and I heard it throughout the summer. But in the winter, I didn't hear anything. Now that it's getting warmer again, the noise is starting to come back. I've taken it to my mechanic numerous times and he doesn't know what it is. I had my brake pads and rotors replaced just before the noise started a year ago. Here is a video of what the noise sounds like (this isn't me, but the same scenario
[URL]
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So I just bought a 2004 Ford Focus. I did not drive above 15mph when I tested the car due to the lake effect snow that was occuring. Now that I own the car I have noticed if you try to stop going over 20mph the car starts to stop but last second it lurches forward a little bit. There is also a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from the back and a loud vibration that sounds like its coming from underneath the middle of the car. I'm trying to figure out if it is the brakes, tires or a leak in a brake line (those are all things my dad said it might be).
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It seems like a sudden transmission, happens JUST a MOMENT after I start to go forward from stopped, like at a light. It might be worse if I did a jackrabbit start, but I don't.
It's a pretty hefty "jerk" and I would think the car is already in first (automatic) but it feels like a crappy shift on a manual trans.
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Noticed slow to move forward at a stop sign, pulled in to get gas, after fillup would not drive forward in any gear, drives fine in reverse. The station attendant checked the fluid, said it was a little low bot looked ok and did not smell burnt. He added some more but no luck. Was able to get home, short drive in first. Should i try to drive to transmission shop if any better or tow? No problems in past 178K, kept up with all regular service and fluid changes. Does this sound like a doomed transmission? Anything i can do short term to get thru holidays?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe with 108k miles on it that seems to have an attitude problem. I was driving home from a Christmas get together on the highway, when my engine stalled, hiccuped, stopped and the check engine light came on. When I tried restarting the car, the engine wouldn't fire. The battery was fine, and I had a half tank of gas. After about 15 minutes of sitting, I was able to get the car started and driving again. After about a day and a half and a refueling, the check engine light went out and the car behaved as normal until this evening.
I went to the gas station, put $15 in the tank (brought the tank up to about half), and as I was stopped waiting to pull onto the road, the engine died. No hiccuping, rough running or anything, it just plain stalled and shut off. Again, after ~15 min, it started. I turned back up the road to head home (Was going to head about 30 miles west to see a friend but decided against it), after I stopped at a stop light, it stalled out again same thing. Waited ~15 min, it started back up with the check engine light back on. (But wait there's more!) Another stoplight, another stall. This time however, it would not start at all after 30 plus minutes. By this point, my battery was pretty run down, so I managed to get a friend to give me a tow.
I have to bring it it for servicing tomorrow anyway for a completely unrelated issue, and just towed it over to the dealer.Any clue what gives or what I should make sure the dealer does?
The internet seems to want to point me towards a bad ignition coil or a bad crankshaft sensor, but my mechanically inclined friends are leaning towards an electrical issue or a problem with the fuel filter/pump/line.
The check engine code is P0335
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I'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
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My 97 toyota 4-runner has now had three times with a loss of power making me unable to drive the car. The first time behaved differently than the last two times. Currently, I can't drive the car.
The first time, I had just filled up the gas tank (while the station underground tank was being filled). About 10-15 minutes later while on the interstate, I had a sudden loss of power and the vehicle eventually would not move forward at all. The idle was fine. I had it towed to my mechanic thinking I had gotten a back tank of gas. I believe the check engine light was on... he determined that it was a bad mass air flow sensor and replaced that. He said the filling of the tank was co-incidental.
Months later (Jan. 2015), during our first cold spell, I had driven the car, parked it overnight in temperatures of 9 degrees. The next morning it didn't want to start. I finally got it to idle to warm up in neutral, but then when I would give it gas to move it, it would stall. I finally got it to stay on and to move with barely enough power to drive it the mile to the mechanics. On the way it started "back-firing" under the hood and smelling progressively hotter although the engine heat light was normal. By the time I got it to the mechanic going about 5-10 mph, I thought it was going to catch fire, it smelled so bad. Check engine light never came on. The car sat there unmoved for two weeks while I was out of town. After the two weeks, the mechanic finally checked out the car (outside temp was now up in the 30's & 40's) he got it to start and drive, but it was "running rough". He cleaned up the connections on the coil, which had some corrosion and gave me back the car -- no charge.
It ran fine until yesterday, when the same scenario played out. Another cold snap (-4 degrees). Drove the car across town to do errands and fill the gas tank. parked it overnight. The next morning I couldn't get to start initially. Finally got it to idle. Warmed it up for 30 minutes but it would not stay running if I took it out of neutral and gave it any gas. Check engine light did not come on. This time the car is 30 miles away from my mechanic and I don't want to have it towed if I don't have to....
My mechanic thinks it's either a fuel or oxygen issue. He told me to have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tanks while I try to start it to see if that effects anything.
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