Hyundai - Sonata :: 2009 - Rough Idle / No Power
Aug 3, 2016
I'm looking to sell my 2009 sonata soon. I had an engine light and saw p0017 a couple weeks ago, accompanied by a tapping noise from the engine that speeds up as the engine does. On Friday I figured I'd take it for an oil change before getting a price on it from carmax, but didn't wanna bother spending a lot to fix whatever was causing the code/noise. My Last oil change was August 2015, 6k miles ago. Jiffy lube said the oil was low and clearly it had been a long time since I had a change (time, yes, but not so many miles, but guilty I guess) so they recommended an engine flush. I said ok. Drove the car home from them and all seemed fine.
Went to drive it Saturday night and it shakes and the lights flicker and I didn't seem to get any power, I was afraid to drive it and wasn't even sure I'd get enough power. My battery does this weird thing sometimes where it's almost dead in the morning (no lights on and no parasitic draw, I've checked) and if I try a few times to start, with each try it gets better until it starts. So I charged it with a trickle charger and tried again but same problem. After this started it was also giving me a p0035 and p0135. I had it towed to a mechanic and they said something big time busted with the motor and it needs to be replaced. He said he didn't even pull it into the garage, he just did something in the lot.
I'm just looking to get it into good enough shape for carmax to give me more than a hundred bucks. I just decided to see if I could hobble it to another mechanic for a second opinion. It's still doing the same thing, and if I let it idle the engine dies after maybe 10 or 15 seconds, but if I gas it right away it doesn't Rev up fast but eventually does get up there and then it runs mostly ok, albeit noisier, now with a lower pitch noise accompanying the tap. The p0135 and p0035 are gone but now I still see the p0017 along with a p0170. Am I actually screwed or could it be something else? Maybe a bad alternator or battery or spark plug? Something that could have been fouled up by the engine flush?
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I have 114,00 miles on my car. Plugs changed and decarbonization done at 99,000 as well as ECM reprogram or update ($99). Anyway, when my car sits overnight and starts it is getting a rough high idle until I feather the pedal or give it a minute or 2 and it is fine. It is warm now in the 70's and this just started. I had it to the dealer for oil change and they looked at it. There are no codes, they recommended changing the plugs and doing a decarb again. So I told them if I need plugs there is something wrong, Iridium OEM were installed.
Anyway, they suggested changing the throttle body since it has new sensors. I have have the TPS replaced before when engine was surging. They told me there are 2 sensors and one could be bad in throttle body. I don't get it, I use Hyundai air filter now and change every 15,000 miles and get oil changes regularly and they use Quaker State Synthetic blend. I am wondering if maybe I have a faulty PCV? I don't think that has been changed. Don't even know what the interval is. Previously I was told there was none, but I disagree.
What would cause me to get carbon build up like they keep telling me? I don't want trial and error and throw parts and money at it since there are no codes. I was going to drive it til it throws a code. I do highway driving in suburban area, mostly 65 mph. The car runs good, still the intermittent hard downshift when slowing down but nothing like before the tranny was replaced.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
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I have a 06 sonata 3.3L v6. I have been having misfire problems and lack of power under 2000 rpms and at idle when I am either a stop or just warming the car. What is happening I feel it shake and feel the misfire but after it gets up after 2000 rpm at highway speeds its completely fine. It struggles getting up to speed if i press on the accelerator. I have changed the spark plugs and all the ignition coils maybe about 2 months ago, I have also have changed the camshaft position sensor for the rear bank. I believe that it could be the crankshaft position sensor but I want to make sure....
Obd2 codes: p300,301, 303, p0012, p0011, p0014,
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My car has had a rough idle (no MIL). Scanned for codes and got the following:
P0552 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - Low
P0553 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - High
I'm picking up the part at the dealer this afternoon. I printed out a diagram of the component location, and it looks to be easily accessible.
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I've been experiencing an annoying intermittent condition on my '07 Sonata (Lambda V6). I wanted to share this in case any of you are experiencing intermittent rough idle complaints in your Sonata (4G) as well. I was finally able to get it into the dealership during the malfunction; in my case, the MIL never lit. Here are the symptoms: ONLY after being fully warmed up, when coming to a full stop, or using just idle speed to, for example, pull into a parking space, or inch up to a stoplight, I would experience a very rough idle (I could hear the engine sputtering with the window down), see the RPM gauge bouncing, and feel the vehicle going "putt-putt-putt" as it tried to keep running under what seemed to be a misfire or too much load. The problem occurred more noticeably with the A/C off but still did occur with it on as well. While exhibiting this problem, acceleration from a stop gave a slight hesitation as well, but once going faster than 1,000RPMs, the problem went away totally. I thought it must have been my imagination until one day, I pulled up in front of a glass window and could see the reflection of my car lurching forward as it struggled to keep idling. Getting it to the dealership while it was behaving badly was the hardest part.
Once I got there, I got a tech to ride with me and finally, after 3 visits to the dealership, someone else witnessed the problem. Up until now, I've been asking people, "Do you feel/hear that?" "Huh?" I digress... The tech immediately said he thought it was a power steering issue and he thought there was an upcoming bulletin on it. I was sure he was wrong, I was thinking it had to be the spark plugs, wires, MAF, or TPS.
After getting the part in for me (Power Steering Sensor Switch) they put it in today and my vehicle is just as new again. It was never a serious issue, but was rather embarrassing to try and show off my Sonata and have it stutter and sputter like that it idle.
This part is complete speculation; maybe a more knowledgeable person can jump in here and correct any logical errors: Apparently, there is a switch in the Power Steering Unit that detects highway speeds versus slower speeds. When vehicle speed is above a certain limit, the power steering pump is either turned off or "turned way down" (so people get the stiffer feel of the wheel at highway speeds). When the vehicle slows down to idle (to be detected by this switch), the vehicle expects the power steering pump will draw full power from the engine and needs to have a slightly higher idle speed to compensate for the load. My switch was malfunctioning; it was not registering to the ECM that the power steering pump was under load when it actually was; the vehicle then did not bump up the idle speed appropriately, and thus, the rough idle and hesitation.
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My sonata has started having issues on the highway at speeds ~65-75 mph. It will start vibrating, a little at first and gradually getting worse. As this happens my brake pedal seems to be more firm and touchy rather than soft and needing more pressure to stop. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor as I drive. This has happened twice so far, with a gap of about a week in between incidents. What should I get checked out?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl. and have a misfire problem with the 1st cylinder. I've had it pressure checked and there isn't a problem with the cylinder, such as a ring or warping problem. I've replaced the wires, both boots, both ignition coils and the plugs twice. I was told I need to replace the ignition coil again but I wonder if there is something that is making the coil go bad. I've also replace the throttle position sensor and both O2 sensors. I had the front catalytic converter replaced because it was bogging down and very slow. It still runs rough and the check engine light is on. I was told also that I need to replace the engine speed sensor. I bought the car in Oct. of 2004 and only has 68000 miles on it.
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My 2002 hyundai sonata drives fine but when i drive it on poth holes or rough roads, the car sways. What the problem is?
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I just got a 2010 Hyundai Sonata, and it drives fine, but when idling there is an ever so subtle (but noticeable) vibration that seems to be coming from the engine. I read that there was a BBB arbitration case that ruled that some Hyundais had a defective motor mount, but I'm not sure. Should I go get it checked out? The dealers at the lot I purchased it from just told me it was normal and that it'll just be that way for a 4 cylinder car sometimes, but I think they're just trying to sell cars...
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata which gets a sporadic high screech upon startup. I associate this sound the key left in the ignition after the car has already turned over. It will go away as soon as I shift into drive. Is this the problem with the ignition switch or starter? How difficult is this to diagnose as it only happens on occasion? Assuming it's the ignition switch, might I be damaging the starter if it continues?
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2009 Sonata; about 82K miles. Drive belt was replaced in July, about 6K miles ago, by Trusted Independent Mechanic in El Paso. Now, Trusted Independent Mechanic in DC area replaced it again because one of the belt's ribs was falling apart. Attached photographs show a portion of the damage (which is only on that one ridge).
Did that belt need to be replaced?What could have caused he damage? (Mechanic says pulleys look ok; maybe defective belt.)
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2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
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I have a 2006 Hyundia Sonata. I idles really bad like you pulled 5 of the six plug wires off when you put it in gear. Once you start moving a couple miles an hour it is fine. It is also perfect in park or neutral, not a hint of a problem. Put it in drive or reverse and it almost stalls.
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2007 Sonata V6 with 72K miles.
The car has developed a rough idle while in gear (i.e. when stopped at a stop light) and park (i.e. after I start the car).
It's starting to get a little annoying since I'm used to a very smooth idle.
I think this issue started within the last 2-3k miles.
Plugs were allegedly changed at 30k. A full tuneup was done at that time.
Wires are still original.
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In idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
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2007 Sonata V6. He's spent many hours and a good chunk of change at the dealership trying to get it fixed and nothing has worked yet. They honestly have no clue whats wrong which kinda scares me.
First off here is his problem. Occasionally when he starts the car it will idle very rough and struggles to accelerate to 30-40mph. When this happens he pulls over and shuts the car off for a few minutes then it will run fine again. When all of this happens there is no CEL or any light at all that flashes or comes on the dash.
Here is a list of things that have been replaced
Fuel pump
Throttle position sensor
Crank sensor
Plugs, wires and coil pack
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My 2011 Sonata 2.4L GDI has already 76k miles. Spark plugs were replaced around 75K miles, Air filter was replaced. Fuel treatment was done several time since ownership, Intake CRC for GDI was used once about 2K miles ago. The car is doing good until recently. When I accelerate the car acceleration goes uneven. It is not like hesitating but you feel like the car is taking it in steps. Sometimes the first run in the morning, the car idle feels a little bit rough but that's only in the morning. It has been like that for a month now. What do you think it can be? No Check engine light, no pending codes and nothing major except that. I really suspect a bad upstream oxygen sensor (Air fuel ratio sensor). What do you think?
A look through the intake shows a very clean intake. No signs for any carbon deposit. A Hyundai dealer checked the car and told me there is nothing to worry about. Just told me to buy more Hyundai fuel treatment (AKA Chevron Techron) which was done and still I feel uneven acceleration.
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2006 Sonata V6 with 98K miles. The car has developed a rough idle, sputter/lurch while in gear, but not park or neutral. No CEL/codes. Have already replaced the spark plugs (OE), throttle body/FI cleaned, MAF cleaned, new air filter, coil packs OK... Mechanic said no vac leaks, FI spray pattern good, good fuel pressure, etc. Vibration dampener looks ok, no separation or wobble. Another post mentioned a power steering pressure sensor, which I will have checked, but the mechanic is at a loss.
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I've got a troublesome misfire in a 2007 Sonata V6, 70k miles, which I have been trying and failing to track down for a long time.
More than a year ago, the owner of the car complained of rough idle. When this was first mentioned, I looked at the car, she and I talked, and I concluded that she hadn't changed the oil in some 20k miles. ...... Nothing else seemed wrong. I changed the oil, thinking that what she needed was an oil change.
Some time later, I was in the car myself and all of a sudden felt a strong bucking. Must've been a misfire. I recommended taking it to the Hyundai dealer, thinking the so-called 100k mile powertrain warranty would cover whatever it was (it didn't but whatever).
We drove it to the dealer. The dealer firstly informed us that the CEL had burned out, so we had missed some codes. The dealer further us the car needed new plugs and replacement of both upstream O2 sensors. Here was what the mechanic wrote:
"BETWEEN 35-40 PUT CRUISE ON AND WILL FEEL. CHECK AND ADVISE COMES AND GOES. MULTIPLE CODES STORED IN SYSTEM. ... P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE (ACTIVE), P0140 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY, P0154 O2 BS S1 NO ACTIVITY. WATCHED O2 VALUES AND FOUND ERRATIC READINGS. FOUND TSB 10-FL-012 SUGGESTING REPLACEMENT OF BOTH UPSTREAM O2 SENSORS. RECOMMEND COMPLETE SYSTEM TUNE UP FOR RANDOM MISFIRE. HOWEVER MISFIRE COULD BE RELATED TO O2 ACTIVITY.
So the owner went to a different mechanic and had the plugs, upstream O2 sensors, and one of the downstream sensors replaced. All OEM, I believe. ($$$!) (O2 sensor parts 39210-3C100, -3C200, and -3C400) Dunno why the downstream one was replaced, not my doing.
Following this, there was no real improvement. No codes either. The problem comes and goes, so maybe I thought it was fixed, but it has come back. Sometimes, it can be felt just slightly when the car starts cold. Other times, it can be felt just barely when driving at a consistent speed. Sometimes, the problem becomes really bad and jerks the car around. Other times, nothing.
What to check next? Coil packs? Intake manifold gasket? She never gets "top tier gasoline," but I would be skeptical that that's the problem. These are the top three suggestions I've heard.
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