Hyundai - Sonata :: 2009 - Early Failure Of Drive Belt?
Dec 31, 2014
2009 Sonata; about 82K miles. Drive belt was replaced in July, about 6K miles ago, by Trusted Independent Mechanic in El Paso. Now, Trusted Independent Mechanic in DC area replaced it again because one of the belt's ribs was falling apart. Attached photographs show a portion of the damage (which is only on that one ridge).
Did that belt need to be replaced?What could have caused he damage? (Mechanic says pulleys look ok; maybe defective belt.)
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I loosened coolant pump belt when my gen II prius had only 200 miles on it. I retensioned it approximately 70% less. Where I could turn water pump pully by hand breaking traction with drive belt using all my strength.
The ice coolant pump just started to leak at the weep hole at only 63000 miles and 5 years old. I was sure the reduced tension would make coolant pump last much longer.
After retentioning it (brand new at 200 miles) I could deflect belt about one inch as opposed to not able to deflect belt at all!
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Is it time to replace? There is a noise coming from the belt and when I listen with the hood up my best guess is that it's the tensioner. I'm not sure if it is easy to replace or if that is even the problem. The belt looks fine. It allows me to twist it barely less than halfway so to me it does not seem loose. But in the rain last week got the battery light and lost power steering, power brakes, etc, then it went back to normal and hasn't failed again since. The car has 131,000 miles.
Is there a way to check the tensioner? It's pretty tight in there. Or am I wrong as to what the problem is? The sound is a rubbing/slight clicking sound that is in time with the engine and you can hear it if you listen inside the car when the engine is on. The belt also seems to wander around on the tensioner just a little. One day it was about a mm in too much, a few days later, a few mm out, in relation to the pulley.
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I have a 2006 sonata gls 3.3l v6. There is a whining/slight squeaking noise coming from the drive belt when i turn the car on. When the noise started it would only occur when turning with the AC or Heat on. It then escalated to whenever i started the car and would go away after driving for a while. Now the noise continues even after a drive sometimes..
I've been told by a mechanic friend that the belt looks ok. So my plan is to take the passenger side tire off and the splash guard on that side to get at the tensioner for the belt. Once I have the belt off i plan on turning the various pulleys that the serpentine belt goes on to see if i can figure out which one is making the noise. How to pinpoint where the noise is coming from?
Here's a link to a youtube video I put up with the noise my car is making ............ YouTube
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I have a 2009 RAV4 and it has only 40,000 miles. Three weeks ago, I took it to a local Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. The service manager told me that it needs the drive belt to be replaced and the oil in the four-wheel drive system needs to be replaced. I accepted his recommendation and have the job done. After paid almost $700, I took the car back. The next week, the engine lost power and did not respond to the gas pedal for a few seconds while I was driving on the highway. This problem occurred on and off while I was driving.
In addition, the brake light was on after I had the car fully parked and the car key was out. I took it back to the dealership. After diagnosed, the service manager told me that the "brake switch" has gone bad and it caused the engine lost power because it has a "break safe system". After paid about $130 to replace the "brake switch", the problem of engine lost power and won't respond to the gas pedal was gone. The next week, however, the engine light was on and the warning light of four-wheel drive was on. I took the car back to the dealership again. After diagnosed, this time they said the O2 sensor has gone bad and it caused the engine light on and the four wheel warning sign on. I took the car back again. So I paid another $450 to have the O2 sensor replaced. Now the car seems to be running normal.
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I'm looking to sell my 2009 sonata soon. I had an engine light and saw p0017 a couple weeks ago, accompanied by a tapping noise from the engine that speeds up as the engine does. On Friday I figured I'd take it for an oil change before getting a price on it from carmax, but didn't wanna bother spending a lot to fix whatever was causing the code/noise. My Last oil change was August 2015, 6k miles ago. Jiffy lube said the oil was low and clearly it had been a long time since I had a change (time, yes, but not so many miles, but guilty I guess) so they recommended an engine flush. I said ok. Drove the car home from them and all seemed fine.
Went to drive it Saturday night and it shakes and the lights flicker and I didn't seem to get any power, I was afraid to drive it and wasn't even sure I'd get enough power. My battery does this weird thing sometimes where it's almost dead in the morning (no lights on and no parasitic draw, I've checked) and if I try a few times to start, with each try it gets better until it starts. So I charged it with a trickle charger and tried again but same problem. After this started it was also giving me a p0035 and p0135. I had it towed to a mechanic and they said something big time busted with the motor and it needs to be replaced. He said he didn't even pull it into the garage, he just did something in the lot.
I'm just looking to get it into good enough shape for carmax to give me more than a hundred bucks. I just decided to see if I could hobble it to another mechanic for a second opinion. It's still doing the same thing, and if I let it idle the engine dies after maybe 10 or 15 seconds, but if I gas it right away it doesn't Rev up fast but eventually does get up there and then it runs mostly ok, albeit noisier, now with a lower pitch noise accompanying the tap. The p0135 and p0035 are gone but now I still see the p0017 along with a p0170. Am I actually screwed or could it be something else? Maybe a bad alternator or battery or spark plug? Something that could have been fouled up by the engine flush?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata which gets a sporadic high screech upon startup. I associate this sound the key left in the ignition after the car has already turned over. It will go away as soon as I shift into drive. Is this the problem with the ignition switch or starter? How difficult is this to diagnose as it only happens on occasion? Assuming it's the ignition switch, might I be damaging the starter if it continues?
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
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I've been noticing this in the past week, when I'm driving about at around 5pm, the headlight would turn on if I leave the stalk on AUTO. Except it's BRIGHT daylight! Sure it's the beginning of sunset and the sun was to my side, but the amount of light is still extremely high. I see no visible difference between it and driving at noon in terms of the amount of light on the road.
Turning the lights off and on again doesn't work...The low beam does not come on when driving in the morning around 8 or noon, only in the afternoon. Even if the sunlight was shining right on the dashboard, the low beam would still be on in the afternoon.
Makes me wonder if this is a sensor calibration issue( I have nothing covering the sensor) or if it's like this by design. Making the headlight turning on extremely early so that Hyundai doesn't get sued by someone because the light "came on too late" and caused an accident. This is extremely annoying as it uses extra power to run the lights unnecessarily, and not to mention shortening the life of the bulbs. My current work around is just turning on the parking lights...sure the tail are still going to be illuminated, but better than the low beam at least.
I do want to keep the DRL on, but there is no "DRL on" option on the stalk, only "DRL off" to shut everything off. If I want DRL, but not automatic headlight, there is no way to do it, except turning on the parking lights instead.
I don't recall this issue on other brand vehicles I have owned...and about 95% of the vehicle I see coming the other way, under the same lighting condition, is running on DRL only(Assuming they have Auto headlights). What's the trigger condition for the low beam for hyundai..?
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I have a 2010 hyundai sonata -- I purchased brand new in May2010. I've recently been having an issue with filling up my gas tank -- the nozzle clicks off too early! I live in NJ (so i'm not pumping my own gas), so I usually tell the attendant that it should take roughly $40 worth, and they'll restart it.. but sometimes it clicks off multiple times! It's becoming more and more frequent, also! And, yesterday, I got to the point where I just told the attendant to forget it, because it clicked off 3 times in a row! But, when I started my car, I only had between half and 3/4 of a tank??
I've filled up at multiple stations and have had the same problem consistently. I commute over 100 miles a day to/from work, so I'm filling my tank every 4 or 5 days.. the car currently has a little over 20k miles on it.
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2009 Sonata, 4 Cylinder, Auto. 80K mileage, runs well.
I have noticed intermittently that when shifting either out of park to drive, or drive to park that the starter begins grinding as if it is being engaged. The last few times I have jiggled the key and this stopped it.
Googled and found some folks saying it might be the ignition switch selector but am really unsure right now.
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I love the car and SCC is one of my favorite features. I've had good experience with the SCC most of the time - if car in front of me is moving and then stops, it reacts well. (Also was pleased to learn I can resume SCC from a stop by just tapping the accelerator, no need to hit resume like the LCD screen implies).
However, the one situation is when I'm going like 55mph, and up ahead there's a car stopped completely. I'll see a thing on the dash that the SCC recognizes there's a car ahead, but it won't hit the breaks till the last minute. Truthfully, I end up hitting the brakes myself in most of these situations.
I've got the longest distance selected (though i've tried it with short following distance too) and my car is a Limited 2.4 GDI.
SCC stops fine if slower car ahead stops. Seems a little risky when car ahead is already stopped (waits till the last second for brakes?).
I've also tried changing the setting for cruise control response from "normal" to "fast"...maybe i'll try "slow?"
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The problem is that it appears the torque converter is locking up so early even right after getting into second gear at speeds between 20km/h and 40km/h. This causes shuddering/rattling coming from under the hood. If I am not mistaken a torque converter should lock up at speeds 80km/h+. I've never seen this behavior on any car before. I'm not sure what kind of damage is being done either by all this shuddering and rattling going on with the transmission. I feel that this should be something that needs to be addressed via some software update. Is there any software update in regards to this issue?
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My 2007 hyundai veracruz broke down 2 days ago--the 2 month old battery was dead due to the alternator failure. The shop diagnosed the origin of the problem as a leak at the valve cover gasket, which ruined the alternator, and thus disabled the battery. My car has approx. 70,000 miles on it.
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I thought it was the power steering pump & replaced it and still get the noise. A friend did squirt belt dressing on the belt while running and the sound disappeared for a short period of time, so now my guess is its the belt which is not loose, I went and loosened the four bolts on the power steering pump trying to move it thinking there was a crooked connection between the two pulleys maybe, but no. I start up my car and get a squeal that wiould wake the dead for a minute or two, then all is fine driving. If I drive to the store shut it off for 10 minutes usually starts w/ no noise, looks like I made a charitable donation on the new pump,...also the the power steering fluid is correct
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Ever hear of a crank pulley failure? Mine did and took out the serpentine belt. I have 63,000 miles on the 07 and it was a big shock to see the pulley in two parts.
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To my knowledge, if the timing belt goes the engine shuts down. According to others on Hyundai forums, you can blow the engine in a Hyundai Elantra if the timing belt goes. Is the latter really the case?
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Car lost power and has a winding noise when trying to start.It does make any weird YOUR MOTOR IS SCREWED noises or losing any fluids and everything power wise works as it should.I thought the starter went bad,with the winding noise,but doesn't explaining the car just shutting off while driving.
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So my son's car started to sound like a diesel at idle - a good precursor to timing belt tensioner failure and belt slip, as that happened last night.
When we pulled the belt cover off and turned the dampener pulley by hand the belt was spinning on the bottom gear. When turning the engine over, there was no mechanical noises to indicate valves making contact. Did we get lucky or are the valves just bent out of the way?
How can you tell the valves are bent without taking the head off?
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Vehicle is an 08 Hyundai Accent 1.6L three door (hatchback) with 20,197 miles. This car was born on Oct. 16, 2007 and purchased in April of 2008. I told the owner to call the dealer and find out about when they should replace the timing belt as I had looked it up at the Gates site and found that it is an interference motor and also these Hyundai have some kind of lengthy warranty. When the tech or whoever she spoke to at the dealership asked about the mileage, they told her that she does not need to worry about the belt for about another five years, were rude and sounded inconvenienced by her calling. This leaves her with a bad taste in her mouth and more importantly, mis-informed.
I get the "Maintenance Log" out of the glove box and upon trying to decipher the timing belt interval, it states that the first course of action is an "inspection" at 30,000 miles or 24 months. How is a timing belt inspected? From what I have seen, a belt can look perfect today and snap tomorrow. But anyway, the next entry for severe service is replacement at 37,500 miles or 30 months which means this belt should have been replaced in October of 2010. Next entry is normal change at 60,000 miles or 48 months which puts us at April of 2012. After this it goes to 75,000 miles or 60 months.
I have already picked up the kit for changing the belt, tensioner, idler, and the two seals. How critical is it to change the spring as that was not included in the kit I got? I'm planning to do this job here in the next couple days as from what I can figure from the above log, It's way over due. I was reading some Hyundai forums and one stated that the 2011 model with the exact same engine calls for the first replacement due at 90,000 miles. How's this possible? Seems like these people (engineers) don't have all their stuff in one bag...
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