Hyundai - Sonata :: 2008 - Lost Power But The Engine Kept Running At Idle
Sep 29, 2013
I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I'm looking to sell my 2009 sonata soon. I had an engine light and saw p0017 a couple weeks ago, accompanied by a tapping noise from the engine that speeds up as the engine does. On Friday I figured I'd take it for an oil change before getting a price on it from carmax, but didn't wanna bother spending a lot to fix whatever was causing the code/noise. My Last oil change was August 2015, 6k miles ago. Jiffy lube said the oil was low and clearly it had been a long time since I had a change (time, yes, but not so many miles, but guilty I guess) so they recommended an engine flush. I said ok. Drove the car home from them and all seemed fine.
Went to drive it Saturday night and it shakes and the lights flicker and I didn't seem to get any power, I was afraid to drive it and wasn't even sure I'd get enough power. My battery does this weird thing sometimes where it's almost dead in the morning (no lights on and no parasitic draw, I've checked) and if I try a few times to start, with each try it gets better until it starts. So I charged it with a trickle charger and tried again but same problem. After this started it was also giving me a p0035 and p0135. I had it towed to a mechanic and they said something big time busted with the motor and it needs to be replaced. He said he didn't even pull it into the garage, he just did something in the lot.
I'm just looking to get it into good enough shape for carmax to give me more than a hundred bucks. I just decided to see if I could hobble it to another mechanic for a second opinion. It's still doing the same thing, and if I let it idle the engine dies after maybe 10 or 15 seconds, but if I gas it right away it doesn't Rev up fast but eventually does get up there and then it runs mostly ok, albeit noisier, now with a lower pitch noise accompanying the tap. The p0135 and p0035 are gone but now I still see the p0017 along with a p0170. Am I actually screwed or could it be something else? Maybe a bad alternator or battery or spark plug? Something that could have been fouled up by the engine flush?
View 6 Replies
2008 F150 5.4L .. The truck lost all power the other day driving and barely made it to work. On the ride home it was still running horribly, like it just fell on its face. the check engine light came on. Went to autozone and put HEAT in the gas tank cuz the night before it was at quarter tank and temp went from warm to freezing(thought maybe condensation in tank).. Truck ran a lot better( not perfect). Drove around that day and it was fine. Pulled down the driveway and CE light shut off. Ran the code anyways and it was P0012..
Talked to a few mechanics and they said try replacing the Camshaft position sensors..did so and it ran worse. the truck hardly would idle or rev and shook violently..i shut it down right away. Then it threw 9 codes..Cam shaft position- over retarded timing bank 1(P0012), misfire cyl2, misfire cyl3, misfire cyl 4, random misfire, cam sensor bank 1, three of them were repeated codes..
I replaced the sensors back to stock and cleared the codes. the truck is running like it was in the beginning of the problem..No vilant shaking but falling right on its face at idle and any rpm..not drivable. Would rather do the work myself. very capable except for replacing camshaft phasers which i have heard could be the issue..Could it by the VCT seliniod, EGR valve, plugs, wires...Did just change the oil a week ago and cleaned and reoiled air filter.
View 11 Replies
I drive a 2007 Sonata GLS with 54k miles on it. Recently, the engine has lost a lot of power and the fuel economy has gone down quite a bit. (20 mpg in mixed driving)
I replaced the engine oil; air filter & oil filter myself (Full Synthetic & FRAM filters). Engine is sounding and driving lot smoother now. However, the power & acceleration are still pretty bad. MPG is slightly better at 21mpg
I would like to change spark plugs myself and see if that will result in any improvements.
1. What spark plugs do you recommend should I use (there are too many brands out there)
2. How difficult is it to change them.
3. How I can get the car to perform better.
View 20 Replies
I pushed the accelerator all the way to the floor at 30 MPH and the engine lost almost all power? As soon as I let up to about 9/10 throttle everything reverted to normal. Took it to the dealer and it showed no codes. The Tech and I took it for a road test and it did it only one more time. He said to keep an eye on it but was baffled. I tested it later in the sport drive mode and it would bog down every time if pushed hard to floor at about 30mph.
My best guess is that I got some bad regular low octane gasoline and the ECM is sensing a knock and retarding the timing or cutting off fuel flow similar to over revving condition. I will fill it up with 93 Octane Premium next time I get fuel and se what happens. Usually runs fine on 87 Octane but most of the time I don't floorboard the accelerator pedal. As I said at 9/10 throttle it runs fine.
View 26 Replies
My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
View 20 Replies
2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
View 2 Replies
I have an 05 F150. Last week engine started running rough, check light was flashing. Engine lost power and got more erratic. Had it towed to Ford dealer, Dickson TN. Dealer says "#2 injector has suck open and flooded the Cylinder and bent the C-Rod." Ok have put in another 5.4(not at Dealership) hummm new engine runs the same as the one that came out. Had A different Dealer check this engine they tell me the right bank is not making compression cam has jumped time.
View 9 Replies
So my car has been dying. I was told they tested alternator, but they said it was charging and replaced my battery. So 1 week later it has had a few lights pop on but it didn't die... and so today it is just like it was before replacing the battery. Headlights and dashboard dim and a bunch of dashboard lights come on. Such as battery, abs, break, tcs, airbag and maybe something else.. after getting a jump it happened again and I noticed everything was stopping on the dashboard.. while driving even the speed jumped up and down and landed on 0... any tips?
View 4 Replies
I went for a drive in my new truck and hadn't put the pedal down until now. its really cold here (5f, or -15c). Anyways so i waited for the engine to get warm and then i put my foot down until i got to about 100km (60 mph). Everything was fine, I was on a gravel road so i turned around and did it again, this time i totally lost power once i hit around 60kmh. the check engine light flashed a few times, i tried again, same thing, this time the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I eased off the gas a bit, then came to a full stop a little ways down the road. I tried again and this time i had full power, though i didn't take it to 100kms because there were icy patches all over the road and the truck went a little sidways. The check engine light was off, and i tried one more time after that and got up to 100 and everything was fine and the check engine light never came back.
I'm worried, my first real truck here, what happened?? Also when i stopped the truck i had a listen to the engine, everything seemed normal, but I've noticed before there seems to be a clacking sound almost, not sure if this is normal with a 5.4? I had a 2.2 litre sonoma before this so I'm new to all this.
View 6 Replies
I just got a 2010 Hyundai Sonata, and it drives fine, but when idling there is an ever so subtle (but noticeable) vibration that seems to be coming from the engine. I read that there was a BBB arbitration case that ruled that some Hyundais had a defective motor mount, but I'm not sure. Should I go get it checked out? The dealers at the lot I purchased it from just told me it was normal and that it'll just be that way for a 4 cylinder car sometimes, but I think they're just trying to sell cars...
View 2 Replies
I added LED lights to illuminate the running boards on my Lariat. Did this about 15 months ago and all was fine until this week and I noticed they weren't coming on any longer. Both sides are out of commission. The running board lights on each side are wired to the respective plug for the running board lights on each side. The interior lights that are on the same circuit work fine (fuse #12 in the passenger side fuse box).
So I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why both sides have gone out at the same time but the fuse is ok. It's winter here and my truck doesn't completely in the garage so I'm hoping to limit my time lying under the truck out in the cold, on a wet floor! I thought there might be another fuse in the engine compartment fuse box but there isn't, at least according to the manual.
View 6 Replies
I have 2008 Hyundai Sonata. The TPMS light has been on for months. Not the little round tire low light...this is the actual letters TPMS. I have had issues in the past with the low pressure light coming on with weather temp changes which were quickly remedied by putting air in the tires. After several new tire purchases the low level light would come on when I left the store and as I drove out and drove a little while they would go off and stay off. I have had tire centers break the sensors and have to replace them. After the last one they reset the sensor, however some time later the TPMS letters came on and will not go off. No one can seem to fix it permanently. The Hyundai dealer service center tells me it's a tire center problem.
View 1 Replies
My Hyundai Sonata 2008 vibrates when driving at 40 km/h. Steering wheel doesn't shake, only car vibrates. And this happens regardless of pressing gas pedal or not. Front wheels are balanced(as the car is front wheel drive) yesterday but no success.
View 4 Replies
There is a problem in radio of my 2008 Hyundai Sonata. The radio display illuminates but does not display anything. But sometimes it displays ok magically then again problem appears. All the buttons are working and sound is ok.
But, a week ago radio stopped working at all. When i press on/off button, nothing happens. Only once in 2-3 days it works for some hours then again turns off.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata that overflows at most gas stations when filling. To fill the tank, I set the pump on autofill and walk away. The pump clicks off and then the car "burps" and gas comes out the filler neck and runs down the outside of the car and out the bottom. It does not do this at one gas station by my house but seems to at all others almost every time. The car is still under warranty (42,000 miles but the issue started at 29,000) and I have brought it to the dealer 3 times. Each time they claim to have found something new wrong and fix. The first time they replaced the fuel filler neck, 2nd time fuel filler neck assembly (and tested at a gas station and it worked), 3rd time the vent valve. Each time I try it and it overflows for me (except at that one gas station). I have never had this issue before with any other car including my wife's current car. I'm truly stumped, but feel that a car should be able to fill up at a gas pump without overflowing.
View 3 Replies
My 2008 has the airbag warning light on - the dealer wants to replace the whole passenger seat bottom. They also say as long as the light is on no airbags will work. Is this true and do I have to just cough up the money and replace this?
View 5 Replies
I have 2008 Hyundai Sonata. I hear some noise from front wheels when i turn to right or left with breaks applied. There is no any noise when turning without break. the cv joint has been replaced but no any result. Still there is noise.
View 8 Replies
2003 F350 6.0 with 290k+ ... It has a skip in the engine at idle and running. At times when running down the road skip seems to get worse. Changed both fuel filters, didn't work. Truck start up is normal, no leaks, and flashing no codes.
View 3 Replies
I own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
View 6 Replies
My wife was driving the 1999 K3500 7.4 model ls crewcab truck home the other day and out of the blue it started running rough popping and back firing and lost power. It had a major tune up about 40,000 miles ago. It sometimes has a hard time cranking to start, but once it starts it idles really rough and pops and smells like it is running rich. I thought the distributor cap but it looks fine, could it be a sensor?
View 2 Replies
