Our 2005 Sonata GLS with 100,000 miles has a digitally controlled system for the heater & A/C. For more than 2 years the only way to get heat was to raise the temperature up into the 85 - 90 degree range. Now we must put it all the way up to 90. When we do, the heat is extreme.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Honda Civic has just started doling out heat when it feels like it regardless of where I set the dial. It seem that when I am accelerating or applying gas, heat is available but when I am stopped at a light or coasting downhill, cold air is all that is available. Is this a thermostat issue or something more dire?
View 1 Replies2005 Hyundai Tiburon Keeps Overheating
I live in Washington State and have a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon with less than 110,000 miles. I have had it for 5 years, and have not had any issues with the car until recently (last 2-3 months). My car overheated on me back in May while out running work related errands. I was able to leave it parked downtown while my husband took a break from his job to come pick me up. Since then, it has continued to overheat every time I drive it.
The temperature gauge climbs into, or dangerously close to, the “red Zone” within the first 10 minutes of driving. The first couple of times the car overheated, if I was using the air conditioner, it would start blowing hot air instead of cold air and the air would stay hot. Now when I drive the car with the air conditioner on and it over heats, it continues to blow cold air (if that matters at all).
My super handy husband (a certified motorcycle mechanic) has done the following in an attempt to fix the car:
•Checked coolant levels
•Topped off coolant
•Bled coolant system and added yet more coolant
•Replaced the thermostat
•Replaced the radiator cap
•Water pump was replaced November 2012 (not even a year old yet)
The radiator cap was the most recent fix. It was replaced on a Wednesday evening after testing it and finding that the existing one was not maintaining the proper PSI. The car drove great around town for two whole days without any issues (Thursday & Friday). Saturday, I decided to take it on a longer drive out of town to see if my good luck would hold…it didn’t. I drove a total of 30 miles round trip and my car started overheating after about 20. I limped back into town and barely made it back to our apartment.
My car continues to overheat!! What is going on?! So confused and frustrated I’m hesitant about taking it to a mechanic who, my husband is convinced, will just charge me to check all of the things he has already fixed.
The heater in my '07 Sonata (V6) does not seem to do too much - the air gets warm, but not hot - even at full blast. (A real problem here in Wisconsin when the outside temp gets below zero). Temperature gauge always reads below the midpoint on the gauge. My hunch is I need to install a hotter thermostat.
View 5 RepliesI've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
I posted a couple weeks ago about my sonata beginning to shake at speeds above 60 mph. I took it to a local dealer, who could not find a problem, so I took it to the dealer and they said I need to replace the rack and pinion, gat my car aligned and balance and rotate my tires. I am concerned this is not the problem and the dealership is trying to get money out of me, especially since I had my tires balanced before seeing them.This problem is intermittent and happens in the afternoon, not at morning or evening times. It takes about 15 mins to begin to shake and will stop if I get off the interstate and come to a full stop.
View 4 RepliesMy sonata has started having issues on the highway at speeds ~65-75 mph. It will start vibrating, a little at first and gradually getting worse. As this happens my brake pedal seems to be more firm and touchy rather than soft and needing more pressure to stop. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor as I drive. This has happened twice so far, with a gap of about a week in between incidents. What should I get checked out?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl. and have a misfire problem with the 1st cylinder. I've had it pressure checked and there isn't a problem with the cylinder, such as a ring or warping problem. I've replaced the wires, both boots, both ignition coils and the plugs twice. I was told I need to replace the ignition coil again but I wonder if there is something that is making the coil go bad. I've also replace the throttle position sensor and both O2 sensors. I had the front catalytic converter replaced because it was bogging down and very slow. It still runs rough and the check engine light is on. I was told also that I need to replace the engine speed sensor. I bought the car in Oct. of 2004 and only has 68000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesWhen I started the car the check engine light came on. Since there had been a lot of rain recently, I thought that perhaps it was an electrical malfunction since the performance of the car did not seem to be affected. I was only a few miles from home and going at a constant speed on the highway. When I slowed down to get off at my exit I noticed that the car wasn't getting up to gear with the same power as it had been. By the time I had to slow down for five or six stop signs, the car was having a lot of trouble getting up to speed, and at the stop sign before my drive way, it stalled and wouldn't start (although it always sounds like it's just about to turn over). The mechanic is suggesting an engine flush and tune up, but both seem a little excessive, especially the engine flush.
2005 Hyundai Sonata (manual transmission)....
This auto has 143,000 miles on it. I recenty noticed a creaking noise from the left front when accelerating from a dead stop. The shop I have used for 15 years said that the motor mounts are deteriorating and should be replaced. I trust the guy but would like to avoid the $1,400 repair. There are no symptoms other than the ocassional noise.
What is the downside of ignoring his recommendation? What other symptoms can I expect if I delay the repair? Can this be a serious safety issue? I plan to keep the car for another two years unless I bite the dust first or the engine falls out.
It is like floating peacefully along in a canoe on a calm lake, and then being passed by a speed boat. Our 05 Hyundai Sonata sways/rocks violently left to right at speeds higher than 50 mph, when going over bumps, or around curves to the right. It also happens when being passed by tractor trailers on the highway, and when high wind gusts hit the car. It is worse when the car is full of our family and luggage. We just drove from New Hampshire to Georgia and back dealing with this frightening problem the whole way. The Hyundai dealership in Buford Georgia said it was our struts, so we get new rear struts. Unfortunately we discovered that was not the problem once we hit the highway to head home. The problem persisted. Our local mechanic in New Hampshire does not see anything wrong, but said it is missing the splash shield under the engine which may cause uneven wind pressure. I truly feel that something is very wrong, but do not know what.
View 4 RepliesWhy the temperature in the car goes from sometimes not nearly warm enough to feel like your face is baking in the oven? Michigan cold weather...BTW. How to get this more stable....
View 9 RepliesI purchased my Prius in CA in late 2008. As the CA temperature was not drastic, the heater temperature was never an issue. Two years ago I moved to CO. Today, for instance, short sleeved weather, but only 35 outside - the sun is out, it's a great day. Now for those that don't live in CO, this may seem cold.. but here's the issue, my heater goes from LOW to 65, 66, ... and up.. there are many times 65 is way to warm, and "LOW" (the outside temp) is too cold, so I toggle back and forth. Is there any way I can reduce the heat coming into the car, so when it's at 65 (reading) perhaps it's warming to 55.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2011 xlt extended cab with a 2.3l 4 cylinder. The truck is great... I put 120,000 miles on it in under a year.
But about a month ago the temperature gauge started malfunctioning. for what ever reason -- the truck is NOT over heating-- the gauge would increase past the "H" and then the temperature light would come on. Because the truck thinks it's overheating -- the engine goes into a "safe mode" and runs with no power. When i shut the motor off and turn it back on temperature gauge resets and the truck will run fine.
Then in another 50 or 100 miles it will do it again. Why is it doing this? I took it to the dealer here in Columbus, Ohio and the mechanic installed a new thermostat and a new "control modulator" (and a part -- not really sure what it is called) anyway, the truck is doing the same thing and the mechanic still does not know
I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra. In Nov. 2010 had inspection done and replaced upper radiator hose at that time. Right after that, I had no heat and the temperature gauge would go up to hot but then come right back down. Brought it back to mechanic, changed thermostat and both things ok only part way home. Started riding with coworker only driving to her house 7 miles away and still temperature gauge up and down, stopped driving completely in Feb. Just brought it to dealer who replaced thermostat and worked fine all the way home and then started all over again the next day. Seems to happen faster at higher speed but will eventually do it in any driving conditions. Today service engine soon light came on. Obviously not thermostat problem. Could it be water pump? Dealer did pressure test and that came back fine so no head gasket problem although don't have a lot of faith in that since problem still exists and they thought thermostat would fix it.
View 19 RepliesI have 02 camry xle with digital a/c , the a/c only works on max cold, if i set the temp to 65 ot 70 ot any number it will become heat ,
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai accent that was not shifting into higher gears about (45 mph) max speed. I took a transmission out of a 2005 ( same engine bad unibody) and put in the 2003. Making sure the torque converter was in all the way. Now I have no gears at all, no park, nothing. But the car does start. I went to the salvage yard and noticed that all the cars like it (hyundai) had no park either. So I must be missing something electrical right?
View 11 RepliesCar: 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe
Problem: We have a sweet burning smell like antifreeze or oil coming from the vents when the heat is on.
We have taken it to 3 mechanics and they can't figure out what it is. We expect the heater core is going bad, but the symptoms do not fully match what we are experiencing. We do not have any leaking antifreeze, nor do we have any windows fogging. They also ran a pressure test which came back normal.
This is a 2004 RX330. Unable to adjust temperature on driver side.
Symptoms - may appear to be defective heat or defective A/C on driver side only (depending on the position of the mix damper).
Solution -- replace mixer damper assembly servo (this controls the mix of hot and cold air on the driver side). This is a dual climate control, so each side has dedicated dampers.
So, if unable to change "where" the air coming out, the damper with the red arrow would require replacement.
If unable to control the temperature, the damper with the blue arrow would require replacement.
I will post pictures, after I repair my own. I'll be replacing the damper with the blue arrow.
This photo was taken with my feet on the drivers head-rest and my head pressing the accelerator.
I have a 2013 Prius 4. I'm not sure if there is a problem or not but the heater just seems to blow the same temperature of air no matter how high I set the temperature. The air feels lukewarm. I was driving 60 miles yesterday with the temperature set at 76. I had on a long sleeve shirt and polar fleece jacket and it never got to where I was really warm. Outside temp was about 50.
View 10 RepliesTwo things are going on with my car. First, when I drive at freeway speeds and turn on the heater, the car temperature drops and then I hear the sound of a tea kettle going off. Second, I hear an off and on sound coming from under the hood on the passenger side. It sounds like metal scratching on metal or like a soft whistle sound. 1997 Honda Accord LX
View 3 Replies