Hyundai - Sonata :: 2003 GLS Lurching Down The Freeway / Losing Power At About 3000 RPM
Oct 13, 2011
On two occasions, about 18 months apart, my Hyundai Sonata started lurching down the freeway, losing power at approx. 3000rpm and regaining it at about 2500rpm. (I was traveling about 70mph.) The first time I was hauled home and the second time i tried to maintain speed and limped home 40 miles on Hwy 80W outside of Sacramento, CA. AAA mechanics reset computer both times and the first time replaced gasket on accelerator. The second time they reset computer but could not find what caused computer to malfunction.
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On the freeway tonight the engine was felt like it was losing considerable power. When I pressed the gas it wouldn't push you into the seat like usual and it shuddered a little. As I was pushing the gas the engine light came on for a couple seconds then turned off. After I exited the freeway, I tried pushing the gas and it wouldn't accelerate. It also seemed like it was limiting itself to 60mph and 4-5k rpm, even when the gas was fully down (not past gate though, I was afraid I wouldn't be able to make it home if I did so). I stopped and turned the car off and on again and the problems seemed to have disappeared. Acceleration came back, car went over 60 and I was able to get it a little past red line with gas pedal past gate.
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A little over 18 months ago I noticed that my steering wheel seems to catch when I am making a slight turn such as on and off a freeway. It doesn't have the same issue when I am making hard right/left turns. I didn't worry about it until one day, two of my children in the car, the power steering failed completely as I was going over 50 mph on the off ramp to the freeway. I was able to control the car and avoid an accident and drove the car about 1 mile to the grocery store, which was my original destination.I went inside for about an hour and when I came out the car was fine. It has only had one other similar failure in 18 months but I commonly feel the catch of the steering wheel when I am exiting the freeway. What I mean by a catch is that it feels as though I would have to jerk the steering wheel to be able to turn more sharply because it has turned as far as it is able to go. I have taken it to 2 Mechanics including the dealership and neither can recreate my problem.
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My 2002 Buick Lesabre has about 160,000 miles on it I keep up with maintenance regular oil changes and what not. Today when I am driving to work and right as I get on the freeway my car starts lurching forward and slowing down repeatedly so I pull over turn the car off look under the hood everything looks normal to me. I wait a bit start the car up and the lights on my panel go from the dimmest they can be to blinding bright and I could not adjust the brightness at all. Any way the car drove fine the rest of the way but the lights were bright as can be the whole way there. What could be causing this? Bad battery?
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I've been leasing my 2011 tiguan with last lease payment due next month. I have 63,000 miles on it and I love the car for its comfort, style and handling. So far only two problems, faulty intake manifold and bad fuse box both taken care of by the dealer free of charge. Recently however I've had two more undiagnosed problems that give me pause on continuing with a lease buyout.
1st problem, stalling when backing out of parking spaces. I've read on the forums this could be easily correctable with either change of fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, or a poor electrical ground to the fuel module (?) in the back of the car. This does not concern me much.
2nd and most disturbing problem, in sport mode when punching the accelerator the transmission drops to the low gear but would not shift up to second, lurching the vehicle forward almost as if losing power. This happened on two occasions on one continuous trip I was taking. My worries are a bad tranny, however the regular drive and tiptonic mode functioned correctly and the following day the sport mode shifting worked fine, as I could not get repeat the problem. So I'm baffled.
I'm thinking more of a computer problem than a tranny but need to know soon whether this car should go back to the dealer. I'm scheduled to have it looked at by a foreign auto specialist but the lack of any malfunction lighting, codes or repeatability of the problem makes me unsure it will get diagnosed. Anyway, love the car and want to buy but can't afford a tranny replacement.
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I have a 1997 f 150 4.6l, 145k miles, it seems that very slowly it is loosing coolant but i haven't noticed any leaks, it also burn about a quart of oil every 3000 miles but i was told that was normal?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple of days ago it started losing power when I gave it gas, like it was dragging or gasping for air. I could barely get it to 60 on the highway unless going down hill and when going up even a low grade I could barely maintain 40 mph. I took it to Hyundai dealership and the mechanic confirmed it seemed to have a "suction" problem. After about 20 minutes I was told that the catalytic converter had broke apart and been sucked into the engine.
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Our 2002 Hyundai Elantra is having issues. It shifts fine, no need to double-clutch. It stays in gear. Doesn't grind or anything crazy like that. It does seem like it isn't getting power to the drivetrain, and is having trouble climbing hills. This all came on very suddenly. Hubby thinks it's the clutch -- I think it may be the bushings. Though now, I'm wondering if it's something else? Since it's not having trouble shifting, should we be looking at the fuel system? Sensors? Engine seals?
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I have a 96 Rav4. When I am driving on the freeway it will get stuck at 3000 RPMs for a good 20 miles. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it a lot. The car will only be going 50 mph, but its stuck at high RPMs. The mechanic has no idea what is going on.
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For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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Don't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
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Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. It's the second time the car does that, I'm driving for a good 5 minutes and I just do a normal stop at a red light and when I try to speed up doesn't go upper then 3000 rpm, I try the 1st gear, 2sd gear,.... until the 6th one and also the neutral... no more then 3000 rpm... Try to turn off the car , turn it back on , same thing. I don't have the engine light on. The fastest i can go it's 85KM maybe 90KM down a hill...:P On 5th Gear.
This time I took a video of it I will upload it today or tomorrow.
Last time i just leave the car in the parking lot the morning after everything was great I went to the dealership and he basicly told me "no engine light, no problem". It's a 6 speed manual and the GL 2012. A brand new car .... I was hopping a bit more from it.... What could be the problem?
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Filled up my power steering every 3 days this week. Finally climbed under the car and saw this. How difficult or expensive this will be to fix? Is it just replacing the rubber boot or is it more severe?
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I'm driving a 2006 4cyl LX Sonata. Just started past 3 months. Intermittently and usually after long freeway driving, the pwr steering locks-up as I come to a stop. Example is driving off the freeway via a ramp and stopping . Steering breaks loose if I apply pressure and goes back to normal. Fluid has been checked for level but not replaced.
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4 cylinder Sonata with 177k miles on it. When I first get in the car and drive away the transmission doesn't want to shift up. I have a manu matic type shifter so I usually just shift up as the RPMS reach the normal shift point. Eventually the transmission starts working but sometimes it acts up and I'm back to shifting myself. Sometimes it shifts hard or double shifts. I'm getting conflicting info from different mechanics. Some say change the transmission fluid and that should fix it. Others say don't because it could open up a bigger can of worms and I will be buying a new transmission shortly after. What should I do?? I can't afford a new car nor can I afford to buy a new transmission.
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Diagnosing our 2006 Hyundai Sonata.....2.4 L engine....automatic.
While cruising along, about 40mph and up I guess...when traveling at a steady throttle and engine speed... if you ever so slightly give it more gas, sometimes it will act as though it is losing power for a second and then kick back in.....but revs will stay up....
I was thinking either throttle position sensor or (gasp) transmission.....it doesn't really feel like a slipping tranny....but wondering if it is issues with the overdrive...
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For some stupid reason, my truck decided to lose power today when exiting the freeway. D/s egt gauge verified it with no increase in temp when stepping on go pedal. After about a minute, I could feel it gain power. So, rolled into fuel station, and topped off tank. While filling, I popped the hood and started messing with the uvch and looking around. It was then I noticed that darn hose riding on top of a ton of wires. Pulled said hose up and sure enough, a wire is shafed clean off of insulation. Anyway, something to check while looking around under there....
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2003 Hyundai Sonata, 70K.....engine makes a continuous pop...pop...pop noise during acceleration. So far have installed new crankshaft sensor, coil pack, plugs and wires.
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I have had the Santa Fe back and forth to the garage no power. We where driving it and all a sudden dropped power can't rev motor over 3000 rpm. Garage said they fixed it with dry gas and more gasoline b/c it was "low" between 1/4 and empty?
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I am driving a 4 cylinder 2003 Hyundai Sonata just at 130000 miles. The other day on the trip back home the car started shaking violently and the check engine light came on. I ran the code and it led me to a cylinder 1 misfire. Today I replaced my spark plugs, and wires. The number 1 plug had some deposits on it, but nothing that should cause a misfire.
Now when the car is in idle there is a spark that jumps from the boot of one of the new wires to the grounding on the corresponding coil. I have never noticed this spark before changing the plugs and wires. It does this with either set of wires. I have a picture below where the spark is jumping from. The car has a noticeable drop in idle when it sparks. Do I need to look into getting some new coils?
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I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata. I currently have a slight grinding noise (or maybe more of a low growling) when I make left turns. This happened in the not-so-distant past and it was an issue with the power steering hoses (one had rusted through), so we (and by "we," I mean my fantastic father) changed it out. I thought this time it may just be low power steering fluid, but after checking it, I can say it's not low. I'd think if a hose was the culprit again, the fluid would be low. What we should look into?
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