My brother-in-law asked me about his 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. It has an automatic transmission, that's where the problem is. Several times recently it doesn't want to go into reverse or park. Shifts fine, fluid fine, no smell or noises. Vehicle has about 68,000 miles on it.
View 1 RepliesI was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
View 1 RepliesI have a Hyundai Tuscon 2005 with 140K automatic transmission. Original Owner and has treated me well. Current issue is the transmission will not engage in reverse or park immediately when shifted most notably first thing in the morning or in the late evening after sitting for a while. It acts as if it is in neutral until it engages after revving the engine for a while. Once it engages, it is a little sporadic for a few minutes and then all is fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start, stop or turn the car on or off.
Runs like a champ until the next morning and it starts all over again. A couple of times the check engine light has come on and I can tell that the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. I can't manually get it to go up to 4th or down to 1 or 2. I can clear the code and then all is back to normal again with normal shifting again available. Short of a transmission rebuild (whihe probably won't happen) could it be electronic in nature since it comes and goes?
I am considering buying a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan with a reported transmission problem. Mileage is around 120k, and the price MIGHT be reasonable even if a trans rebuild would be necessary. I have not seen the vehicle yet, so I'm not yet committed to anything.
Seller claims the car shifts just fine going forward but will not move in reverse. Is this immediately clear that rebuild is going to be necessary? Are there less invasive repairs possible such as valves or controls or other parts which might solve this problem?
I suppose a Caravan transmission at 120,000miles is probably nearing the end of its lifetime, at least that was true of older ones. But like I said, the price is low enough that the cost of a rebuild might be justifiable if all else about the vehicle looks good. I want to have a better sense of the prospects before I invest time in going to look at this...it's about 50 miles away. I have a local transmission shop that I trust and which has reasonable prices
I have a 2010 santa fe with 19k miles.....twice this week i was driving and suddenly the gas pedal stopped working and engine light came on. brakes worked. Have "Sudden Unintended Deceleration"??
After the first event, i had it towed to the dealer (following protocol in the manual). they reported a new recall (it had been serviced a few months ago), executed a computer update and all was fixed (or so i thought).
4 days later, with less than 100 miles driven since the repair, it happened again. this time i was in 35mph traffic so when the accelerator pedal no longer worked, i almost was rear-ended. i was able to coast out of traffic (brakes and steering fine)to a side street. i was able to coast home (.5 mile or so). car would accelerate after stop signs, although the gas pedal doesn't respond at all. very scary that it even shifted to a higher gear and would go 30mph and keep accelerating if i didn't brake!
We have a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. Over the last year, there has been a humming noise that comes out of the front passenger side under the dashboard. This humming noise starts when the car is in motion (above say 5mph) and then lasts presumably at highway speeds but the road noise sort of block it out. When we come to a stop, the humming noise persists about 5 seconds after we come to a complete stop and then goes away. I checked the tire and it's not rubbing anything and tire pressures are even. We had the tires rotated but the noise still comes from the front passenger side. We had a wheel alignment and the noise still persists. There are no issues with steering or braking.
I think it's probably related to the strut or suspension system? Is there a pump in the area? It's been a year and we've sort of gotten used to the noise, and nothing's broken.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata (automatic transmission) that has recently been "jumping" when the car shifts between 2nd and 3rd. This happens only after the engine is "warm", and does not happen in any other gears or when I downshift.
View 1 RepliesAnd if I have to sift through one more "My O/D light is blinking."
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4 SRW CC with several issues but right now I'd like to address the one plaguing my transmission. If I crank the truck and take off it will not shift out of first gear, well it might but it'll take a while, be at high rpms, and a hard shift, throwing the 1-2 shift error code. Now if I disable O/D with the button on the shifter and take off it shifts through all gears fine. I can drive it normally and if I hit the highway, when I'm up to speed I can enable O/D, it shifts into O/D and I can keep on trucking. When I stop I disable O/D and take off normally again. After about 10 minutes of driving and several start/stops even with O/D disabled it will eventually throw the 1-2 shift error code and give me a harder shift into 2nd and I guess enters its limp mode but is still drivable. This appears to be the only code dealing with the transmission.
Due to the fact that it shifts fine with O/D disabled, doesn't skip any gears, and I can manually shift it through 1-2-D I'm guessing it's not the mechanical diode I've heard so much about but an electrical issue. Before I bought this truck it had been abused, at one point the front driveshaft came loose and ripped the wiring harness going to the TRS in half. They soldered it back together but it still looks a little rough. I figure this is a good place to start. What readings I should get at the TRS? Sensor side and plug side. I have the AE enhanced ford bundle and a good DVM. If the TRS can't cause an issue like this where do I go from here, shift solenoid?
TLDR Version
2000 F350 7.3 4x4 SRW CC
Won't shift out of first with O/D enabled.
Shifts fine with O/D disabled.
Can manually shift through all gears.
Eventually throws 1-2 shift error code.
TRS/TRS Harness has been damaged in the past.
Appears to be an electrical issue with the transmission.
Can the TRS cause an issue like this?
How do I test the TRS/Harness?
If not the TRS what could it be, shift solenoid?
I have a 1995 Subaru legacy wagon, 176K miles. The reverse went out about 10 months ago; all the other gears shift fine and it runs great. Do I have a bad transmission or could it possibly be some kind of switch or solenoid? I have searched the net for hours and keep coming up empty.
View 1 RepliesWent to start the car today and it started fine but wouldn't shift out of park, and the instrument panel lights were out. Got it towed to the dealer and they narrowed it down to a junction box or instrument panel cluster. They won't know until tomorrow what the problem is. What this might be?
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
View 5 RepliesMy car pulling to right significantly at all speed. Alignment checked mechanic says its normar to have car goes to right. I have similar car for 10 years 140,000 miles never have this kind of pull with many tires changed and rotation of all kind. While mechanic was doing wheel alighment white brown greese / liquid came out from steering rack on right side. Mechanics says its just oil seal from steering rack oil seal. Car was pulling to right before this rack leak as well. Mechanic says need special bolts for this car to adjust some camber on this car and can make this better.
View 9 RepliesSo I have a 2010 jetta 2.5 and my key is stuck in the ignition has been for a couple weeks also don't know if it's related but when I start the car I can pull the shifter out of park without pressing shifter button just have to press brake and after I shut the car off if I take it out of park and put it in gear it just freely rolls only stops if it's in park. NOT A DSG
View 3 RepliesHeadlights will not go off no matter what the switch position. Can only get them off by pulling the fuses
View 1 RepliesWhile driving, the ABS light came on, with what felt like the brakes. That stopped, now the ESC light comes on (or blinks), still with the brakes, or something acting against the wheels. This can happen at any speed and only happens from once a week to once every few weeks. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI have a 04 santa fe 2.4L 4cyl. I recently did an engine swap, old motor threw a connecting rod. I put my intake, exhaust manifold and head on it. Timed it. All new gaskets. Turn the key and it fires right up and runs great. But when you accelerate it sounds loud (almost diesel like) and doesn't shift at the right time, also while trying to cruise it will drop about 300 rpms and then come back up, then back down and up every 3 to 5 seconds. The transmission was fine when the old motor came out. The head/intake were fine also. All the vacuum lines are connected, cant hear a vacuum leak anywhere. But it keeps throwing a throttle body sensor code and it wasn't broken when the old motor went, i even swapped another used one on it and it still throws that code. I am thinking it has to be intake related.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 hyundai Santa Fe that has had a problem for a few years that I can not figure out, nor can the hyundai dealership. (Though they seem to only want to hook it up to a computer, which tells them that nothing is wrong.) After filling up the car with gas, the car will turn over, but will stall immediately. You can press on the gas and it will stay going, but once you take your foot off the gas it stalls. It act like when you used to flood the corroborator. It takes about 4 times of turning over the car and stalling before it runs normally.
It is a GLS 4-cyl automatic AWD.
My (mom's) Hundai will not start. It tries to turn over but never makes it. We don't smell gas, not flooded, might be the fuel pump. The code sensor device will not give a code to indicate a specific problem.
In the past, the car will give a static shock every time you get out and push door closed. Very difficult to start and gas must be pumped to start after gassing up. Also, a bell (ding sound) rings at random even if the car is driving. What to look at next?
I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe, about 128,000 miles on it. For the past 5 months or so, the engine simply won't start after filling with gas - and only after filling with gas. I've tried filling partially from near-empty, as well as filling full from halfway or more full...it consistently won't start up after filling with gas.
After turning the ignition, the engine will turn over, but quickly quits. Lately it's had more trouble turning over at all. To get the car moving, I need to actually feed it gas with the pedal, and "simulate" idle. Even after a couple of minutes, if I let off the pedal it dies right away....as if gas just isn't getting to the engine on its own.
In order to get the car moving, I just have to keep feeding it a bit of gas while shifting to drive (and stepping on the brake), then I give more gas and let the brake go almost as if it's manual-transmission....off it goes.
Oddest thing: as soon as that happens; as soon as the car moves forward (even just to get out of the gas station), everything's back to normal. The car idles healthily at the next stop, as if nothing happened.
No check-engine light, no diagnostic codes come up with a scan. Same results on warm or cold days. Most recent maintenance on it was new spark plugs almost a year ago (doesn't seem related).
Of course, the only time it DID fire up normally after filling with gas was when I had the mechanic with me in the car!