Hyundai - Santafe :: 2004 - Won't Start After Fueling
Oct 10, 2014
My 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
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My car is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and does not want to start only after fueling. It will also die when the fuel cap is removed. There is an excessive amount of vacuum pressure released when cap is removed. The computer showed a code: P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow. Is this simply a fuel cap issue or something else?
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I have a 2003 hyundai Santa Fe that has had a problem for a few years that I can not figure out, nor can the hyundai dealership. (Though they seem to only want to hook it up to a computer, which tells them that nothing is wrong.) After filling up the car with gas, the car will turn over, but will stall immediately. You can press on the gas and it will stay going, but once you take your foot off the gas it stalls. It act like when you used to flood the corroborator. It takes about 4 times of turning over the car and stalling before it runs normally.
It is a GLS 4-cyl automatic AWD.
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My (mom's) Hundai will not start. It tries to turn over but never makes it. We don't smell gas, not flooded, might be the fuel pump. The code sensor device will not give a code to indicate a specific problem.
In the past, the car will give a static shock every time you get out and push door closed. Very difficult to start and gas must be pumped to start after gassing up. Also, a bell (ding sound) rings at random even if the car is driving. What to look at next?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe, about 128,000 miles on it. For the past 5 months or so, the engine simply won't start after filling with gas - and only after filling with gas. I've tried filling partially from near-empty, as well as filling full from halfway or more full...it consistently won't start up after filling with gas.
After turning the ignition, the engine will turn over, but quickly quits. Lately it's had more trouble turning over at all. To get the car moving, I need to actually feed it gas with the pedal, and "simulate" idle. Even after a couple of minutes, if I let off the pedal it dies right away....as if gas just isn't getting to the engine on its own.
In order to get the car moving, I just have to keep feeding it a bit of gas while shifting to drive (and stepping on the brake), then I give more gas and let the brake go almost as if it's manual-transmission....off it goes.
Oddest thing: as soon as that happens; as soon as the car moves forward (even just to get out of the gas station), everything's back to normal. The car idles healthily at the next stop, as if nothing happened.
No check-engine light, no diagnostic codes come up with a scan. Same results on warm or cold days. Most recent maintenance on it was new spark plugs almost a year ago (doesn't seem related).
Of course, the only time it DID fire up normally after filling with gas was when I had the mechanic with me in the car!
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My 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with 78K miles has never had any major problems until a month ago. I was doing errands and after my second errand the car would not start. AAA came jumped it, and I took it to a local shop where they replaced the battery. They said the rest of the car seemed just fine. The next week, after gassing up, the car again would not start. It made the same sound, like the engine was trying to turn over or it wasn't accessing the fuel. A bystander thought perhaps it was the oxygen sensor.
After resting for about 10 minutes, the car started and I drove it to a Hyundai dealership. They said the fuel pump needed to be replaced. It seemed fine after the replacement. A week later, the same thing happened. The car would not start. Not after 10 minutes, not after 30. AAA again was called and after I told them about the fuel pump they thought perhaps the relay was bad. They swapped the relay with one I wasn't using and the car started.
I, again, brought the car to the dealer. They inspected the whole car. There were no codes when they hooked it up to the computer and it drove just fine. They simply replaced the relay. Last night, the car made a funny sound upon starting, almost like a hissing or light clunking. This morning the car started fine. I drove for about 5 minutes and then the car stopped accelerating and the power steering seemed off. The car then died and would not start. I was in the middle of an intersection.
After about 15 minutes the cops came and pushed my car while I was in neutral. A few minutes later the car still would not start and it was towed back to the dealer. The car has been with the dealer for over 3 hours. They have driven it, tested it, driven it, tested it while driving. Everything. And they can't replicate the problem.
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Our 2004 Santa Fe 6 cylinder ( front wheel drive) was being backed up when a Clunk was heard, and then the Battery and the Brake lights came on. My wife called the dealership and they say not to drive it, but to bring it to them. What could the issue be?
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For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away.
My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
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My car pulling to right significantly at all speed. Alignment checked mechanic says its normar to have car goes to right. I have similar car for 10 years 140,000 miles never have this kind of pull with many tires changed and rotation of all kind. While mechanic was doing wheel alighment white brown greese / liquid came out from steering rack on right side. Mechanics says its just oil seal from steering rack oil seal. Car was pulling to right before this rack leak as well. Mechanic says need special bolts for this car to adjust some camber on this car and can make this better.
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Headlights will not go off no matter what the switch position. Can only get them off by pulling the fuses
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While driving, the ABS light came on, with what felt like the brakes. That stopped, now the ESC light comes on (or blinks), still with the brakes, or something acting against the wheels. This can happen at any speed and only happens from once a week to once every few weeks. What is going on?
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I have a 04 santa fe 2.4L 4cyl. I recently did an engine swap, old motor threw a connecting rod. I put my intake, exhaust manifold and head on it. Timed it. All new gaskets. Turn the key and it fires right up and runs great. But when you accelerate it sounds loud (almost diesel like) and doesn't shift at the right time, also while trying to cruise it will drop about 300 rpms and then come back up, then back down and up every 3 to 5 seconds. The transmission was fine when the old motor came out. The head/intake were fine also. All the vacuum lines are connected, cant hear a vacuum leak anywhere. But it keeps throwing a throttle body sensor code and it wasn't broken when the old motor went, i even swapped another used one on it and it still throws that code. I am thinking it has to be intake related.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with about 83,000 miles. Lately it has been having issue with the rpm's going low and stalling out while I'm driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and it has not been resolved. He said it does not need a tune up and it's nothing with my fuel. I've also heard it could be a crank shaft censor but he says no. The check engine light has come on sometimes, very quickly but then goes off.. He ran the code but nothing came up. So then what's causing my car to do this?? While the car is running and I'm in park, the rpm's will go from 2 to almost 0 then back up again. While I'm driving down the road it does the same thing and sometimes it completely stalls out while I'm going about 40mph. So incredibly scary. What this could be so I can take it back and get it fixed!!!! I'm so scared to drive it but I have to get to work.
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About a year ago, I tried to top off the tank of my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Since that time, the car has been sputtering as soon as a fill up. It doesn't sputter at other times. I have heard that I may have damaged my evaporation system. I have taken it to quite a few mechanics who tried to work on the evap system, but they could not solve the problem. Is there a simple and easy way to fix this??
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the passenger seat in our 2015 hyundai santa fe sport is not power but the seat can manually adjust forward and backward and the back rest can be moved backward and forward. The seat cannot be moved up and down. It is way too low and it feels like sitting in a "pit". The dealer said to sit on a pillow but when I sit on a pillow the air bag light will not go off (so the passenger air bag is not activated). If I sit on a book, the air bag light does go off but who wants to sit on a hard book all the time. The air bag warning light does go off when I sit on the seat itself.
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My brake light and battery dash lights came on when I got home. The next day drove 3 miles parked no lights on . But on my way back. about 1/12 miles they came back on. Next trip they came on when first started the car stayed on for about 9 miles once I got on the.Why they went off stayed off till I hit town about 30 miles. Stayed on till I parked the car. When I left to return home lights still on. While driving. n all dash lights came on then went real dim to no lights transmission and brakes felt like they were losing power .parked the car the next morning it started right up but break and battery light still on moved it a couple blocks to my sons house . When the lights went off on the hey. Then heater fan would kick up when lights are on heater fan runs slower.
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I used some mass airflow sensor cleaner yesterday. My Hyundai santafe check engine light came on but it was running fine. Tried to drive it this morning and it was missing bad and kept shutting off. It would cut back on, once in drive and move a few yards it shut right back off. I cleaned the sensor BC my truck kept idling up high and shutting of when coming to a complete stop. It seem like it was flooding itself, kept smelling fuel when I would try to start back up. Knew it had to be fuel regulator or air flow sensor. So I decided to clean air flow sensor before buying parts. Now after cleaning truck is worst but at least it will start right up. Unlike at first when I would have to wait 15 mins when it shut off.
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I own a Hyundai Santa Fe thats reaching 70,000 miles. I had my brakes and rotors looked at a month ago and they said its getting low but im good for a couple months.
Now I have this weird noise that sounds like as if my tire is flat almost. Its a rubbery creaking noise coming from my front passenger side tire area. I alternated between using the e-brake and regular brakes and the noise only occurs when using the regular brakes at slow speeds, coming to complete stops and turning as well as going over bumps occasionally.
The video attached, the noise occurs at the end when I have the camera on the tire. Its louder than that usually, but I recorded the video in my driveway.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe that keeps getting air in the brake system. Have been to four different places and they have replaced the master cylinder, new brake pads, replaced the right front brake line and caliper and have bled the brake lines numerous times. I get full pressure for 2-5 days and then the spongy brake returns with air in the front right. It is not leaking break fluid and all systems that they think could let in air seem to be working properly.
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My SantaFe drives beautifully until it gets to about 50 - then it starts cutting out and decelerating. It seems as if it is not getting any power at all. It chugs out, powers back at the next lower gear, then settles in at about 45 mph.
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