Hyundai - Santafe :: 2002 - Loud Engine Noise After Timing Belt Repair?
Oct 21, 2013
I bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
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To my knowledge, if the timing belt goes the engine shuts down. According to others on Hyundai forums, you can blow the engine in a Hyundai Elantra if the timing belt goes. Is the latter really the case?
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my friends Hyundai Santa-FE 2007 makes a knocking noise like a hammer hitting the engine when she starts the car and drives. What could that be?
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I recently had a good amount of work done to my Mk4 R32. Last night on my drive home from the stealership I ended up with a passenger headlight out and a very loud clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the Serpentine belt area. After closer inspection it looks like the tensioner lines are't lined up which means my belt and tensioner need to be replaced? I'm not sure, but I have a video and this picture.
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I had the Timing belt, roller, tensioner, belts, etc replaced and I am getting this funny ticking noise after the engine tuns on. It seems to go away after the engine warms up but not all the time. I have the AWM engine and bought the kit from ECS tuning. My mechanic (who is excellent and beyond honest) thinks that I have sludge in the engine. The engine was super quiet before the whole kit was replaced so I doubt that all of a sudden the sludge, if present, would cause this. I have been meticulous with oil changes and always used the appropriate weight and type. Castol Syntec 502. My mechanic told me that the belts and everything looked in great shape at 89000 miles. I wonder if I should have bought OEM parts. Otherwise the car runs perfectly.
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I just installed a new timing belt, balance belt, idler, and both tensioner pulleys but am getting a little whine. I adjusted the balance belt but the noise does not change. No other belts or items are hooked up yet this was a dry run. Car seems to run fine and idles well. The hydraulic unit seems to be working fine and it's a OEM Hyundai piece.
Anything common I can look for that should stand out? 2002 Santa Fe 2.4L
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My SantaFe drives beautifully until it gets to about 50 - then it starts cutting out and decelerating. It seems as if it is not getting any power at all. It chugs out, powers back at the next lower gear, then settles in at about 45 mph.
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Vehicle is an 08 Hyundai Accent 1.6L three door (hatchback) with 20,197 miles. This car was born on Oct. 16, 2007 and purchased in April of 2008. I told the owner to call the dealer and find out about when they should replace the timing belt as I had looked it up at the Gates site and found that it is an interference motor and also these Hyundai have some kind of lengthy warranty. When the tech or whoever she spoke to at the dealership asked about the mileage, they told her that she does not need to worry about the belt for about another five years, were rude and sounded inconvenienced by her calling. This leaves her with a bad taste in her mouth and more importantly, mis-informed.
I get the "Maintenance Log" out of the glove box and upon trying to decipher the timing belt interval, it states that the first course of action is an "inspection" at 30,000 miles or 24 months. How is a timing belt inspected? From what I have seen, a belt can look perfect today and snap tomorrow. But anyway, the next entry for severe service is replacement at 37,500 miles or 30 months which means this belt should have been replaced in October of 2010. Next entry is normal change at 60,000 miles or 48 months which puts us at April of 2012. After this it goes to 75,000 miles or 60 months.
I have already picked up the kit for changing the belt, tensioner, idler, and the two seals. How critical is it to change the spring as that was not included in the kit I got? I'm planning to do this job here in the next couple days as from what I can figure from the above log, It's way over due. I was reading some Hyundai forums and one stated that the 2011 model with the exact same engine calls for the first replacement due at 90,000 miles. How's this possible? Seems like these people (engineers) don't have all their stuff in one bag...
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I own a Hyundai Santa Fe thats reaching 70,000 miles. I had my brakes and rotors looked at a month ago and they said its getting low but im good for a couple months.
Now I have this weird noise that sounds like as if my tire is flat almost. Its a rubbery creaking noise coming from my front passenger side tire area. I alternated between using the e-brake and regular brakes and the noise only occurs when using the regular brakes at slow speeds, coming to complete stops and turning as well as going over bumps occasionally.
The video attached, the noise occurs at the end when I have the camera on the tire. Its louder than that usually, but I recorded the video in my driveway.
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I bought an 02 Elantra last August with 128,000 miles on it. The front tires make a noise at almost any speed that reminds me of a 4X4 with mud tires going down a highway. I have replaced the axles, front struts, outer tie rod ends and one irregular rim, and I will replace the rear struts this weekend. Varying the tire inflation has no effect on the noise. When I got it aligned, the mechanic told me they had to swap the front tires to get the alignment within spec, and the uneven wear should cancel out. That was 3,000 miles ago and the noise level hasn't changed. The front tires still have 5/16 of tread on them. Should I keep waiting it out, get new tires, look for some other cause, see if there's a hole in the firewall I can soundproof, or what?
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I have a 06 fwd santa fe. Im pretty sure this is a front break noise. It only happens when breaking and after the breaks have warmed up quite a bit. So after long trips of stopping and going. But if the trip is long with not much stopping the noise doesn't happen. It never happens right away, so if the car sits over nite the next day for my morning coffee run the noise doesn't happen. But driving around town with a lot of stopping and going the noise eventually starts. The front break pads are new/recently installed, as well as the rotors. I've tried giving the pads a sand but nothing changed and im not seeing any bluing on the rotors. You can hear the noise roughly 27 seconds into the mp3. At the moment I can't change back to my old pads as i have a bummed up wrist, I've been waiting for it to heal so i can try changing back to my old pads, but until then i was hoping if i could get an answer as to what's causing the noise.
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My wife had the tires rotated on her 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe immediately before we went on a long road trip. After we left, we noticed a high-pitched whining sound at speeds of about 35-70 mph. It did not occur every time we hit that speed, and it generally seemed to go away after we'd been driving for about an hour.
We could make the noise stop every time by braking (as long as the pedal was depressed), or some of the time by turning (but only while the wheel was being turned). Occasionally, going over a particularly big bump could stop or start the noise.
My question is, what color is the car? Wait, no, my question is, is this likely to be the brakes, and if so, could it have been caused by the tire rotation?
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey. I got the timing belt replaced two weeks ago.Last week the engine started making a quiet clicking noise upon acceleration. The clicking noise happens intermittently not continuously. Then last night the yellow engine light came on. Questions: What does the yellow engine light mean? Is the engine light related to the timing belt work that was done? Would the clicking noise be connected to the timing belt work?
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We have a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. Over the last year, there has been a humming noise that comes out of the front passenger side under the dashboard. This humming noise starts when the car is in motion (above say 5mph) and then lasts presumably at highway speeds but the road noise sort of block it out. When we come to a stop, the humming noise persists about 5 seconds after we come to a complete stop and then goes away. I checked the tire and it's not rubbing anything and tire pressures are even. We had the tires rotated but the noise still comes from the front passenger side. We had a wheel alignment and the noise still persists. There are no issues with steering or braking.
I think it's probably related to the strut or suspension system? Is there a pump in the area? It's been a year and we've sort of gotten used to the noise, and nothing's broken.
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After driving the vehicle on the highway (30+ minutes at 65+ mph), exiting highway on an exit ramp and coming to a stop (at stop sign or traffic light), the engine will sometimes stall and shut off. Immediately thereafter, vehicle can be restarted and driven. There are no other symptoms, abnormal sounds, vibrations, etc.
I thought problem might be caused by vapor lock. However, Hyundai dealer service center checked fuel pump, fuel lines and vacuum hoses, etc. but can not duplicate, identify or repair problem.
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away.
My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away. My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
See more at: [URL] ....
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
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I recently bought a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 V6. Had another issue related to the rear wheel, which I fixed. Today, I changed the oil filter on the car (along with the oil). I have heard this engine noise before, but with the cover off it appears a little louder. It’s basically a ‘ticking’ sound.
The engine uses no oil, and has no other leaks. It has some noise on startup for maybe 1-2 seconds (like a loud lifter or something, but it goes away in less than 2 seconds, and at the same time the oil light goes out). I changed the filter today because I was told that a leaky gasket could result in the Filter not retaining oil between starts, causes some minor knock for a few seconds.
But anyway, this other ticking noise seems to be regular, regardless of condition. I have heard some people say that some engine noise is normal for this engine, but how about this?
Video w/ Noise: [URL] ....
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I own a 2004 Hyundai Sonata (2004 Base model L4 - 2.4L 2351cc - MFI GAS DOHC) which is a 4 cylinder and has about 113000 miles. Anyways, about a month ago we had one of our coldest days of the year. I drove the car to work and everything was fine. Then when I left work (it was freezing cold) I went to start the car and it sounded like I started a race car. It was so loud that I thought the car was going to blow up (no check engine light came on). I changed the oil and that didn't work and so I figured it was something with the exhaust.
Then I took it to my mechanic (applause). He said that he was stumped, the car was noisy but he didn't think it was a problem but he said he would try to figure it out. He ended up taking off the timing belt and said that was fine, he said the water pump was good as well. He had a service tech look at it with him and they thought the issue might be the "vibration dampener" or "damper" So they replaced that but it didn't work. He said it could possibly be the motor mounts but he said when he looked at them they looked okay?
I drove it off his lot yesterday and it is quiet when I idle but I can see the steering wheel shaking significantly. Then when I hit the gas it is still obnoxiously loud and with heavy vibration! But when going down a hill and letting off the gas there is a brief respite of silence (still vibration). It is especially louder in lower rpms and sometimes I think I can hear a metallic clanking/scraping noise when I have the times of "silence" but it is very faint.
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