Hyundai - Matrix :: 2007 Car Won't Start On First Try
Dec 23, 2012
So I've had this problem for a week or so. The cold start is usually good and the car would usually just start but whenever I stop to go to the store for 5-30 minutes or so, I come back and the car would start only on 2nd try. On the first try the car turns over but won't start. The second try usually starts the engine. No weird symptoms or noises just this. It runs fine and silent. I haven't observed any power issues or anything like that. What would you check first ?
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After a long drive in Arizona heat, my Hyundai Accent won't restart after refueling! Never happened until last Sat., then Fri., then Sunday. Ck eng light, so Mechanic ck'd it, but no codes...Car is '07 with 125K
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We have a 2007 Certified Pre-Owned Hyundai Elantra that overall we're quite happy with. Several weeks ago, the engine light came on, and after a nightmarish week (the shop put in a faulty O2 sensor, although we didn't know it at the time - the engine light just kept coming back on. Took it to dealer, who I prefer not to go to -- it's far, for one thing -- and they said the O2 sensor was faulty. Dealer replaced it, got my money back from the shop, and no more engine light).
HOWEVER, the exact same day that the engine light came on for the very first time, it took me several tries to turn on the car. This happens sporadically, and it's taken up to 6 tries to start the car. (No stalling, though). My wife has had no problems at all with her key, although she drives the car somewhat less than I do, but not by much. She thinks it might have something to do with my key. I think it's related to the O2 sensor, although that issue is now fixed (I hope) and I'm still having trouble starting the car.
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My car is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and does not want to start only after fueling. It will also die when the fuel cap is removed. There is an excessive amount of vacuum pressure released when cap is removed. The computer showed a code: P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow. Is this simply a fuel cap issue or something else?
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Hyundai 2007 Elentra Manual 5 speed..
Car won't start, Replaced Battery.
Have checked starter motor, its fine and cranking over
Have checked spark plugs and they are sparking.
Fuel pump wasn't working and after spending ages getting the back seats off and causing movement there, the car started. So fuel pump was replaced. Car went back to not starting after fuel pump replaced. Could this still be an associated issue with the 2008 recalls (Some components in the original fuel pump may be compromised by ethanol blended fuel.) Have checked relays and they seem to be working and fine. Have connected up and tried to find any fault readings come up and nothing is there.
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata. The car sometimes and randomly won't 'turn-over'. I get a check-engine light but this may go away, also. I've gotten stuck at random locations and if I wait maybe 10-15 minutes, the car sometimes starts again.
The worst incident was when the car started but would not go past 10-15mph.
I've taken the car to a garage and they've checked the computer and it seems to indicate a throttle issue. They cleaned it and the car was fine for a couple of weeks, but now having similar incidents where it randomly won't start.
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I think my transmission died today. My car wouldn't accelerate past 40 mph and a local maintenance man said there's no reverse. I think I have seen other complaints about this with the Hyundai's. What the specific problem can be? I'm going to have to have AAA tow the car to a transmission shop. I bought my car used and it's beyond 60,000.
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On sporadic occasions when I turn the key to start the car, I get nothing. No buzzers, bells, lights or ignition. If I open and close the door, all is well.
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So my battery is dead dead.... Looking to charge it, but of course, the alarm goes off. How do I turn it off?
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I had an accident with my 2007 Hyundai Azera 3.8 Limited at the driver's side a couple of weeks ago. The frame bent a little bit from the left side. Took it to body shop/mechanic and was straightened back. The mechanic advice me to change the CV axle on the left side due to the CV boot coming off the axle. We bought a used CV axle from the junkyard and everything was fine until 2 days later when I made a wide left trun and I heard a cracking noise.
Immediately, I pulled over and AGAIN the CV Boot from the CV axle has popped out of the axle again and up until now when i drive I hear a cracking noise when turning to the left. Even without checking the car again, the mechanic is still suggesting its the axle I bought that I should buy another one... We also changed the hub in the process....before this problem occurred...
Here is the picture of how it looks now...
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe. When I fill the tank (not even totally full) the car will have a fuel smell. The odd thing is that is comes more from the front part of the cabin, and only happens after filling up.
I have been very careful to make sure it is not about stepping in gasoline then getting in the car. It has been to the dealer twice for close to 3 weeks total. They smell it but cannot figure it out.
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My 2007 Hyundai Accent Automatic has been, what I'd call jerking, off and on when I go to accelerate, either when speeding up to merge on to the interstate/coming out of a turn/or being very slow to accelerate after a stop, like at a red light. About a month ago, it wouldn't start after I filled it up with gas and the check engine light finally came on, so I took it a mechanic. They kept it for a day, got it duplicate the not starting problem, and said it was the "fuel gauge." (looking this up on the internet leaves me questing, because nothing about the definition of a fuel gauge sounds like anything that would cause it to do what it was doing, but they told me that's what the computer alerted as the code for what was wrong.)
It was working fine now when I fill it up with gas, but occasionally still jerks upon accelerating. I haven't looked at the gear gauge to see if it's not changing gears, as I thought at first it might be something misfiring, but I had the spark plugs changed probably a year ago or less. Just based on a quick internet search, I think it might have something to do with the fuel pump. I'd describe the jerking as just that, the car physically jerks until either the gear changes, or it gets power or something, and then once it does it it doesn't accelerate quickly after being at a complete stop, and the engine seems to get louder and while it does move, it seems like when I push the gas petal it has a hard time getting going.
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My husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
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My A/C quits working when in stop and go traffic or at a long light. Comes back on when I get going again after a minute or 2. One shop says thermistor another says thermostat is faulty causing engine to overheat. Not sure who to believe. Car gauge never shows engine to be overheating. 2007 Hyundai Tiburon
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
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I purchased a NEW 2008 Hyundai Keyless Remote on the internet. It didn't come with programming instructions. How to program this remote.
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So, I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent MC (1.4, 71kw) and for the past 2 years I have a very strange problem with the car. At first, when I was reaching a 70 km/h (43 mph) the car was starting to oscillate left and right. It isn't a vibration. It's more like a shaking. Also, when I change 1st to 2nd gear, in acceleration, i feel the same symptom, more like a vibration this time.
The oscillation happens between 70-90 kmh (43 - 60 mph). I really can not figure this out. While accelerating it happens the worst.I changed two sets of wheels and 3 sets of tyres. Also, I don't feel the brakes having a problem. While slowing down, I feel no other vibration in my brake pedal, just the one caused by the oscillation.
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We hear 5 to 8 second whistling noise inside car...can't tell where it comes from as it is very faint. ALSO, we hear a longer, maybe 10 to 15 second, noise that sounds like fingernails on chalk board. Both sounds are intermittent & neither can be heard when radio etc is on. We took car into shop and had driver side front wheel bearing repaired but that DID NOT solve these TWO issues.
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I have a 2007 Sonata. The parking lights won't switch off without a turning the lights on and off for some time. Repeated attempts can turn them off, but you have to check the car in a hour to see if they have come back on. The dealer stated this was a known defect of the fuse box assy, but there is no recall. 800.00 repair according to the dealer.Without an alternative, I am considering ordering the assy and changing myself.
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A few weeks ago, my left power window spit up a screw and now the window is stuck. The motor grinds away and the window won't budget. Would a regular auto mechanic be able to fix this or do I need to go to a body person?
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata that has the "Air Bag" light (Red indicator in the instrument panel). This is not the amber indicator for the passenger side air bag sensor. There is also an error code "B1706-Passenger Buckle Pretensioner Voltage High". Is this the "Female" part of the passenger side seatbelt buckle (i.e. the part that is attached to the left side of the seat)? Most of what I've seen on the web is referencing that part. Am I on the right track?
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