Hyundai - Entourage :: Engine Codes P0057 And P0037 - Downstream Oxygen Sensor
Apr 1, 2015
I recently had my Hyundai Entourage (2008) come up with the following engine codes: P0057 and P0037, both related to the downstream oxygen sensors. The generic description of the code is heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit low. As I understand this code, it is signaling that there is too much current passing through the heater circuit. The oxygen sensors test out OK for resistance, around 10 Ohms each and disconnecting them entirely and rerunning the test after driving a few times yields the same code. So I suspect the issue is not with the sensors but either the wiring or the ECU. I'd be a little surprised at a sudden short in the wires for both sensors but I suppose stranger things have happened. Oh and the fuse for the oxygen sensors has not blown. I am correct in reading these codes to mean there is an apparent short? Or are there any other things that could cause this to happen?
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What can be done regarding these faults? P0037 and P0057
Description:
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
The catalytic converters have been removed but the fault was present before that anyway. All I want is the VSC function to work again and the lights to go off. I have heard you can put dummy sensors in.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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I have a hyndai Sonata v6. It is 2006 model and has done 86K miles. It recently failed the inspection and I was told it has faulty oxygen sensors. I have replaced the sensors. But now I am advised by the mechanic that I need to drive abut 200 miles before I can take it for the inspection again because it takes some time for the sensors to get adjusted. Is that true ?
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
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Long time follower, first time user. 99 F250 V10 180,000 miles: About a month ago I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors. I know have the following codes:
0135 and 0155 for Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR 21 and 11
Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 and 2
1409 for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit
I checked fuses and PCM relay and all are good. I have 12 volts to both oxygen sensors and no noticeable wire burns. One of the possible causes given on code printout for 0135/0155 is to check for a disconnected hose to the EGR. All hoses are good. One of the possible reported fixes for EGR code 1409 is to repair oxygen sensor wiring. So my question is: Are these codes related. If I replace the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, will this clear my codes from the oxygen sensors?
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I have the service manual for my Entourage. I want to change the ATF. It says to disconnect the hose to the oil cooler and then to run the car in neutral to drain the fluid (for up to one minute), and then to remove the drain plug to get the remaining fluid out. Then replace the plug and add new fluid. No gasket / filter change necessary.
My question is... where is the oil cooler on this vehicle, and which hose do I disconnect?
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I just bought an 07 Hyundai Entourage (Kia Sedona clone) a little over a month ago. We had our first storm last week and my wife tried to use the washer fluid on the rear and it didn't work (it was below freezing). I looked at it and the front didn't work either (no noise from pump motor either). So I found out it has a pump for the front and one for the rear but they are on the same fuse. Checked the fuse and it was blown.
I thought maybe it was due to the fluid in the car freezing (no anti freeze fluid probably). Put the new fuse in, tried the front for about 5 seconds and it worked. Tried the rear for 5, it worked. Tried the front again, nothing. Tried the rear again nothing. Pulled the fuse again accept it wasn't blown. Put a couple of different fuses in. Nothing. I did this while it was above freezing...? could both pumps have burnt up at the same time? Is there any other fusible link between the motor and switch?
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I actually found headers for my 5sfe and I took them cleaned them up real well and put them on.
The problem I am having is that the o2 sensor space on the headers is for the threaded style sensor and the upstream that comes stock is the bolted on style although the downstream does have the threads.
Can I take the downstream o2 sensor and put it in the slot and since I have put on headers it takes out the cat will this make the car run like crap? also I have tried to take it down the street with just the headers and I had almost no power.
would this be caused by the downstream o2 sensor in the upstream spot and no exhaust other than the headers?
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I recently bought my new (For me) R32, the first owner of the car remove the 2 catalyst from the car and now I have the check engine light on. When my friend put the vagcom on the car it shows an oxygen sensor fault. What can I do to fix this? can I just buy a MagnaFlow exhaust?
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Where the fuse that controls oxygen sensors on a 1997 pontiac grand prix 3.8L engine? i read some where it is under hood fuse panel, but what is the marking for the fuse?
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The "check engine soon" light appeared yesterday on this nice running 1997 van with 167K. An auto parts store code check indicated a problem with the oxygen sensor. Is this something I can replace myself--a lightweight shade tree mechanic? I never seem to have any luck asking questions on the Mopar website.
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I own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
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I have a 2004 Corolla with a Check Engine light on. The Toyota dealer diagnosed this as: "Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 - slow to respond".
The diagnostic code is PO133. Elsewhere, I find that this code indicates:
The oxygen sensor is faulty.
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed.
There is an exhaust leak
Haven't noticed exhaust leakage, and I doubt the wiring is faulty.
1) Where is sensor 1?
2) Do I really need a new sensor, or can I clean the old one?
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I need to replace O2 Sensor which is Bank 2 Sensor 2 which needs to be replaced.
Where is this located on a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3L
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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I need to replace the first oxygen sensor, which is located on exhaust manifold behind the engine. But how to reach it? I've tried both from below and from above with the engine rotated as much forward as was possible but no luck. The only way I see possible to make enough space is to remove the ignition coil, but I don't want to take that step without knowing it is right thing to do.
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We took our 2008 Prius in for a check engine light. The dealership said oxygen sensor was faulty. Changed that and had them change the serpentine belt while there due to cracks in the belt. My wife filled up the car the next day ( it took 13 gallons) but gas gauge was not registering a full tank. We drove 67 miles and I decided to pull into a gas station and see how much it would take since the gas gauge was not working properly. It took over 7 gallons.
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How do you replace an oxygen sensor in a 1997 Cadillac Deville? Where is it located?
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