Hyundai - Elantra :: Stiff Drive - Hard To Reach 40 Mph Without Engine Feeling Heavily Over Worked
Sep 13, 2016
When I drive my car, is fine for the first twenty minutes. After which time, the car drives like the E brake is on. Further, when I'm in city streets, the rpms go really high just to hit 25 mph. When I take my foot off the gas, the car gradually slows to the point where the car stops while in drive. Even if i press the gas, I have to press hard before the car moves. And when it does move, is like the E brake is on because it acts like it doesn't want to move. While traveling, is hard to reach 40 mph without the engine feeling heavily over worked.
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Recently, I got a error code of P0172, that indicate mixture correction (bank 1) rich. Actually, air filter and spark plug have been replaced.
My avante is only 4 years. and 70k mileage. By the way, I found the engine shake heavily when idling.
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I have a 97 3.5. A few years ago something in the drive train started vibrating/resonating strongly when the engine RPM's reach about 1800-2000. I can feel it most in the gas pedal but it also resonates through the dashboard and sometimes makes the dash cover buzz. It didn't start out faint and get progressively worse, just started one day and has been there ever since and hasn't really gotten worse. Actually started after replacing my plugs, wires, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I originally thought engine, then I thought maybe it's in tranny, but it's worse when a/c is on although compressor is quiet and works great.
More info: has 198k, runs like a champ, no hesitation; tranny replaced @ 104K
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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My wife called today after arriving at work letting me know she was having trouble shifting the car from D(drive) to P(park). I know the Gear box is set up in a stepped configuration. Sometimes its smooth shifting up to park and other times its not.
2011 Elantra Gls
Silver w/tinted windows
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-My pickup was parked and hit in the rear axle in January. I had to have the whole axle replaced as well as the leaf spring to frame mounts.
-I finally received the pickup back and now when the trans is in Drive it will not up-shift until the rpms reach 2500 and it is a hard shift.
-Also the speedo does not work now.
-Check engine light also came on with code P0500- vehicle speed sensor.
-I replaced the VSS at the transfercase and the ABS sensor in the rear differential with no change.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra and the previous owner called it "quirky". She said to turn the AC or heat off you have to have the setting on 4 not 0 and a few other things. She forgot to mention sometimes it just won't start. Last night when I went to drive to get some take out the car just would not start. The radio and lights turn on but the engine wouldn't start. There was no noise of the engine even trying to start. I made sure the car was in park and now I'm just confused. I called the previous owner (my boyfriend's sister) and she said when that happen she would make sure the lights, radio, and AC were turned off and jam the car into park. I tried all of this and it didn't work so I called her again and she said sometimes you just "need to wait it out"....this morning I tried the car again and it turned on with no problem but I am paranoid it will happen again on the road trip I have planned for this weekend.
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The front seat heater control switch is hard to reach while driving so I was wondering if I could use the 12volt version of the Willhi automatic temperature control .
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Engine light shows" Airbag". Ram Auto did a diagnostic and error code did not show up. Ram tried to delete the code, could not. They suggested search re-calls since this is a hot topic in the news about Hyundai's problem with airbag opening without cause. Did a research and there are no re-call for the year 2003-there are re-call for the year 2004. If the airbag light stays on and there is cause for it to open, it will not.
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To my knowledge, if the timing belt goes the engine shuts down. According to others on Hyundai forums, you can blow the engine in a Hyundai Elantra if the timing belt goes. Is the latter really the case?
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My Mom has a 2009 Hyundai Elantra, 25k, good car no problems until yesterday. Turn the key and it cranks (turns the engine over for a second) then the starter kicks off (spins real and stops spinning the engine). It won't start like this. The car only has 25k on it, with the Hyundai 100k warranty.
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My trunk will open with the FOB and cabin switch.......it will start to open, then reach about 2/3 open and then stops and closes hard. I have a custom interior panel that may be too much weight for the lid, but even when I assist it going up, it still stops and closes hard.
Is there a way to either manually override the auto open/close, or change the sensitivity of the auto close actuator?
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My 2000 Hyundai Elantra with about 130,000 miles has possibly the loudest engine imaginable. It seems fine at start-up but really starts to rumble around 35mph. Once I get to 60+mph, I'm getting hearing damage, and there's enough shaking to make it difficult to see what's in my mirrors.
Oddly enough, the engine clams down when I turn the wheel around a curve on the highway. As soon as I'm driving straight again, it's loud and shaky. In addition, the gauge next to my speedometer, (which I believe is 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear, etc, right?), the needle fluctuates significantly and bounces around violently between 2 and 3. The check engine light will come on and stay on for a week, then shut off for another week. It has turned on and then off several times now.
Would you say this is a simple oil issue? I just got it changed not too long ago. And it only started when it started to get really cold here in MA. Could just be a coincidence though. I don't want to pay a lot to fix anything, I only need to get this car to last 6 more months til I can get something new. Any small steps you think I could take to decrease the shaking and noise?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
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The blue cool engine light went off today. What does that mean?
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I have a hyundai elantra 2005 with over 200K mi. last month it started overheating. I could not go a mile before it reached H again. No one could find any leaks and fan would go on if I put the AC on. Yet it would get so hot the car wouldn't start ( sounded like it was out of gas) I finally got to my mechanic and they said and showed me the fan had cracked and was bubbling water/coolant out. It had been okay could I have made it crack by still driving it? I stopped everytime and let it cool down..
They replaced fan but car was still going to H immediately. They then told me I had blown the head gasket. Between that and the fan it cost me 1100.00 I just got it back today and the AC is blowing hot air and it is driving oddly. It lurches and the tach sometimes jumps to 3 while I'm driving. they also replaced the timing belt again which the mechanic there had just did a few months ago. It feels like its going to stall out all the time and when I get around the 60 mph mark it lurches or feels like its not even in gear as though I'm revving it. Could this be normal because the head gasket is new and has to break in?
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I have a 99 Hyundai Elantra Wagon and it has about 205,000 miles on it. It has been a wonderful vehicle, but I have a couple of problems with it. One, the cruise control is a little funny. Between about 42 mph and maybe 55 mph, the engine will rev up and down and sometimes will shut off the cruise control altogether. Also, I think it has a transmission problem- when I slow down to come to a stop or slow down enough for a turn, it sort of hesitates going forward. Not the engine, but just going where I want it to go and when. It almost feels like the brakes are on when I'm trying to accelerate, but those have been checked. Automatic transmission.
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I bought a brand new '16 Elantra a little over a month ago and I love it but I've been noticing a tapping feeling under the floorboard and can't seem to figure it out... Not much of a sound is present but when my feet are on the pedals and on the little left foot rest piece, I can feel a sort of "tapping" in my feet... It only comes when the wheels are turning, nothing during idle... It's brand new so I don't see anything being terribly wrong but it's annoying and wanna see what it could be? I've taken it by the dealership and they can't seem to find anything... They checked the suspension and drivetrain but said it was all fine... Also, it happens more on a rougher kind of road, but not so much on a new, smooth paved road...
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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Have a steering problem with my 2011 Elantra. While driving "straight" and maintaining a center location in the lane, the steering wheel will develop (for lack of a better word) a sticky feeling. When you try to move the wheel beyond the sticky spot it causes you to overcompensate. Hyundai and two different dealers look at me like I am nuts. They test drive it but don't test it properly to feel the problem, they will test it by changing lanes and making turns. The problem is not always present and only happens when driving straight and when you move your hand slightly left and right to stay center in the lane.
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