Hyundai - Elantra :: Skipping Really Badly And Sometimes Even Shuts Off By Itself
Jun 9, 2015
So my car started skipping really badly about two weeks ago and sometimes even shuts off by itself. Now I've had two different mechanics try to fix this unsuccessfully. One replace the coil for two of the spark plugs and the wires for all four, didn't work. The other mechanic replaced the crank sensor, 15 minutes on the drive home from them, the skipping started again. Both mechanics found no issue driving it around right after replacing something, but the problem occurred after a day for each fix. Yesterday I put in some dry gas in the full tank, thinking it might be some bad gas or maybe I got some condensation, because the stalling didn't happen until recently when my mom filled up the gas tank completely.
Today I took the car for ride down to the end of my dead end road and the car stalled part way down, once I got to the end I put the car in park and then turned the car completely off then back on again. The car started fine and I drove back up to my house and parked in my driveway, I revved the engine in park and at around 3,000 rpm, it skipped once. I revved a few more times, but no skipping, I took it out for a ride and went about 10 miles with no skipping(but I kept the rpm under 3,000). Once i got back home I parked it and kept revving it for a few minutes even getting up to 4,000 rpm but still no skipping. I don't think the problem is fixed because both the first mechanic and the second had no issues with it right after they tried something, only for it to not have worked in the end. What it could be? This car has been my main mode of transportation so I need to get it working as fast as possible.
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To my knowledge, if the timing belt goes the engine shuts down. According to others on Hyundai forums, you can blow the engine in a Hyundai Elantra if the timing belt goes. Is the latter really the case?
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I used some mass airflow sensor cleaner yesterday. My Hyundai santafe check engine light came on but it was running fine. Tried to drive it this morning and it was missing bad and kept shutting off. It would cut back on, once in drive and move a few yards it shut right back off. I cleaned the sensor BC my truck kept idling up high and shutting of when coming to a complete stop. It seem like it was flooding itself, kept smelling fuel when I would try to start back up. Knew it had to be fuel regulator or air flow sensor. So I decided to clean air flow sensor before buying parts. Now after cleaning truck is worst but at least it will start right up. Unlike at first when I would have to wait 15 mins when it shut off.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
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Dad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
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I have a 2008 Elantra with 50,000 miles. I know I was overdue on the tranny fluid change and the car was getting bad gas mileage and skipping gears. I brought it in and had the tranny flushed and refilled and now its running good. I thought it would be good to get a price on spark plugs because the book said replace at 60,000. I called the dealer and he basically told me he has not sold many of the plugs and they should last 100,000.
I seem to be getting conflicting info on what should and should not be done at the maintenance books written schedule. I looked for a price on Fuel Filter air filter which is in the maintenance to replace but again conflicting info stating that should not be changed unless there is a problem. Anyway, what should and should not be replaced at specified intervals? I know the tranny fluid change should have been done at 30,000 because it was very dirty and causing issues for me.
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Just bought a new 2013 Elantra Limited. Love the car but........ very frustrated with the back suspension skipping around. Time to time my dad has to use the car but he is getting scared because the back skips around to much on the hwy ( same here). I know people are replacing the back shocks with the KYB and was wondering if i do change that would i be voiding the warranty the car only has 700 miles
Also one more thing i am getting 21mpg combined i know its still low miles and waiting to get it fully broken in but heard stories that it will not get better. If so whats the best bet to get that issue resolved. Car only has 700 miles ...
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My car is a 2003 Hyundai accent . When getting gas, the gas pump often shuts off several times( almost every $0.50 of gas) well before my gas tank is full. Also, I have to fill the tank VERY SLOWLY to prevent spills and it takes a long time to fill up the tank. After Im done the car takes gives a bit of problem to start. Could it be the fuel filter?
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2006 Tucson shuts off sometimes when I pull into my driveway. It starts right back up and it doesn't happen all the time. I have replaced the cam and crank shaft sensors with no luck.
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What could be causing my radio to shut down after five seconds? If it was the fuse, it wouldn't come on at all. I suspect the amp/power supply. What else could it be? I think all of my radio stations have been reset too. 2009 Hyundai Tucson.....
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2008 Hyundai Account 4door78,721 Miles. I've only had it for a year. Taken it to dealership they performed diagnostic test, no codes. When its cold my car shuts off while driving and is difficult to remain on after starting it. When temperature is about 70 degrees car runs fine. I have tried new battery...didn't work. I have replaced spark plugs.....didn't work.
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I know, sounds like blown head gasket. However oil looks fine, no coolant leaking and coolant looks fine. It also does not overheat (that I can see, it dies first). This all started a few weeks ago. I changed spark plugs, oil and undercoated the car with primer. I did get some paint on the radiator. I also put techron in the fuel tank and changed fuel filter. The car ran fine before, now here is what is happening step for step.
Car starts fine, idle is a bit rough (it was before too) but nothing drastic. I rev car at 2500 RPM until it is warm. The thermostat stays in the middle yet I begin to see a good amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. If I take foot off the accelerator the car will shut off at this point. If the car is not warm yet, it won't shut off. When it does shut off, I cannot restart it even with gas pedal down. It just cranks and cranks. When I let it cool down it starts up fine and the same thing occurs. I cannot tell if the radiator fans are turning on as the car dies before they turn on (it's cool outside). The thermostat never indicates overheating.
The entire radiator is smoking white (not from cap) but I assume that is from my paint overspray burning off. Could this be getting sucked in and stalling the car out when the car warms up enough to start burning off the paint? Could I have painted something inappropriate? What could this be? I know a decent amount about cars.
If I let the car warm up just by idling it will run until it gets warm then it stalls and again, won't start until it cools. It seems to keep running if I keep RPMS up but right when I take foot off accelerator when warm it shuts off.
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I was driving my Sonata this morning to work as usual. It was a wet morning but not raining. I hit a pothole (which I've hit before) going 35-40 mph. About 1-2 minutes later I was driving about 30-35 mph when I heard a click, lost power and then everything came back on. I believe during this "power loss" that I couldn't accelerate since I remember the rpm going down but I know that I took my foot off of the accelerator when this happened. I kept driving to work and about 2-3 minutes later while coasting down a hill at 35-45 mph. It happened really fast twice in a row.
Each time there was a click, the lights would dim or shut off completely (not sure since it happens so fast), the check engine light would flash, and I believe the radio turned off. Since it happened so fast (click, shut off, and back on) I didn't get to see if I could keep driving (accelerate) or if power steering was gone. I am guessing that they would be gone with my limited knowledge of what I was experiencing. I was able to drive 8 minutes to work without it happening again. I popped the hood looking for a loose connection around the battery but nothing was popping out at me. My car has 117,000 miles and has regular maintenance done. Any ways I could diagnose it further? Can O'reilleys check the code that flashed on and off if it isn't on anymore?
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The A/C compressor now shuts off while I am driving the car. The blower still blows air and the light for the A/C on or off stays lit. The only way I am able to get the a/c back on is to shut off the car and restart. The refrigerant level in the system is where it should be. Possible bad pressure switch or relay somewhere? The weather here in Vegas is a little warm so need to get fixed asap.
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My 2004 elantra shuts off while driving, while making a machine gun noise. If I try to start it, it will continue making the noise. I wait a few minutes after clicking and whirring robot noises stop and then it starts again. I've tried the cam position sensor, that worked for a few weeks but it's doing it again. Luckily it seems to only happen at slow speeds, before I pull into traffic.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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So about 6 months ago I got new brakes on my car (2009 Hyundai Elantra). It was done by a independent repair shop. A few weeks later the brakes started making really weird noises, so I took it back to the shop and they took a look at them and they said everything seemed to be fine. So the next couple weeks there was no noise, but after a month or so the same thing happened again, I took them back to the shop they said everything looked fine and the noise stopped once again, but after a couple months later this happened again! and its been frustrating.
So when I took it to the dealership for oil change, I asked the guy to check the brakes for me and he said everything looked good, but if I had them changed in an independent repair shop they probably put generic ones which don't have some kind of lubricant that keeps them from making noises, that this happens sometimes, and if I wanted to fix it, new brakes had to be installed and they need to be the dealership brand which is for Hyundai cars. How true is this? I'm very naive when it comes to cars so I don't know whats going on.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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My car has been having issues lately, I'll have the heat or air on (doesn't matter which), and I'll hear a click (like a pen click) and it will go off, then it will click again and go back on. Last year it only did this a couple of times and I solved the problem by hitting the dashboard, obviously. But now it's doing it every time I drive, and since it's winter I kind of need the heat to stay on. What is the problem?
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My problem is gas cut on my Elantra 2001. Here is how it happened; Last week I filled up my tank with regular gasoline then added middle quality gas this time. I always use middle quality gas but once I made a mistake and filled with regular. Then my reliable elantra started stumble and cut gas few times in a day. What would be the problem?
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Like a lot of others, my 2000 Elantra will just barely take gas at the pump. So I've done the research, I think I understand the problem, but when I tried to find the replacement filter, there seem to be 4 different parts ranging from $8 to $180. Which part should I order and order first, or should I just replace them all?
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