Hyundai - Elantra :: Headlights Only Illuminating The Bottom Half Of Field Of Vision
Apr 19, 2014
I just bought a 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT and it is my first new car. I drived it at night for the first time and noticed that the headlights were only illuminating the bottom half of my field of vision. In fact, as I drove up to the garage, there was a distinct line of top half dark, bottom half(or maybe a third) light.Is this part of a newer design of a car? A flaw? Just new car jitters and is something to get used to? It made me very uncomfortable because I wasn't able to see as much as I am used to.
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The headlights have been giving us fits because we can't shut them off when we turn off the car. We have to start the car, sometimes drive it around and shut off lights before shutting off the car. And this process has to often be repeated several times before it works. Yesterday the lights came on by themselves when my husband turned off the car in the garage and he couldn't get them off so he disconnected the battery.
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We purcheased a used 2003 Hyundai Elantra in Aug. 2010. Since then the driver's side low beam has burnt out 3 times. From our online research this appears often in the Elantra, but with no real fix. There does not appear to be any moisture problem and I am leaning towards a short, ground, or voltage problem. But seems odd that it is always the same headlight.
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I picked up a '08 TSI wagon recently and noticed the bottom half of the rear defrost doesn't work & the lines are broke all on one side.
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So basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
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I just recently purchased a 2013 Elantra Coupe, and the Engine Start Stop button will not light up anymore. The small LED above the "Engine Start Stop" lettering still lights up blue or amber if it's in ACC or ON mode, but the lettering itself no longer lights up.
I'm not sure if it's supposed to stay lit while driving, but I noticed it started to flicker at various rates, and then eventually it stayed lit. Now, it's not lighting up at all. I'm wondering if there's a fuse anywhere that could be associated with this or anything I could check myself before taking it to the dealer. I haven't had a single issue getting the car to start with the button, just wondering what could be causing the lettering on it to not light up any longer.
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I have a 1999 F-250 SuperDuty with a 7.3L. I need to replace the field coil on my AC compressor due to a broken connector (long story). After I remove the belt and compressor clutch, what is the next step to get the pulley off so that I can then replace the field coil? I am a computer geek by trade so I need clear steps. I looked on youtube, but all I found was how to adjust or replace the compressor clutch or the entire compressor.
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Is there any trick to removing the rear seat bottom, or do I just need to pull each side up with enough force until it pops out? If I get my hand under the edge of the seat there seems to be a decent amount of give to it, but I don't want to break anything...
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My new-to-me '07 Elantra has 109k on it & I'm not sure if the clutch is orig or 2nd. It doesn't slip in any gear, but the actual active section of pedal is really only the bottom 3". If the pedal is not on the floor board It isn't fully disengaged. When letting out the clutch it is effectively fully out after only 2-3" off the floor. With that said the 'free play' is only the very top 1/4-1/2" as it should be.
I've never had a clutch that felt as this one does, & I have 15yrs history driving manuals.
My first thoughts are:
1. clutch disc is almost gone & getting ready to start slipping
2. restrictor valve is clogged
3. slave cylinder is weak & not throwing full range anymore
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata. With the headlights turned off, they come on when I brake. How do I correct this?
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Headlights will not go off no matter what the switch position. Can only get them off by pulling the fuses
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I have an hyundi accent 1997 and the headlights won't turn off.i have had new fuses, relays and on/off the stalk.the only way to turn them off is to take out the fuse which is a pain. Someone has suggested install a switch across the fusible link but didn't have the details for me to follow.
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My first car was a 1986 Hyundai Excel. I spent about as much time fixing it as driving it, but it taught me how to work on cars, which has saved me a lot of money over the years. It had some quirks. When I turned on the headlights, the idle would go up and down. When I looked at the carburetor, I could even see the throttle open and close. It had one of those complicated feedback carburetors that I don't really understand. My question is about the transmission. It was a five-speed, and the clutch never slipped. When I got the car, the speed limit was 55. At that speed the engine would be somewhere over 3,000 RPM (I forget exactly).
Then a couple of years later the speed limit went up to 70, and at that speed the engine ran at 4,000 RPM. The strange thing is that the engine speed was the same in 4th and 5th. I have a book about cars that I got years ago, and it mentions something called a "fifth gear" that isn't an overdrive but "acts like an overdrive." What this means, but it seems to be what my Hyundai had. I found no difference in engine speed or performance. If I had to downshift to 4th to climb a hill, I'd immediately have to downshift to 3rd, because 4th made no difference. What that fifth gear was for? I also wouldn't mind knowing why the throttle opened and closed when the lights were on.
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We just purchased a used 2007 Elantra sedan. Noticed it was out of washer fluid when we got home. Went to fill it and as I was pouring in the washer fluid, I could hear it running onto garage floor.
When I looked underneath, I see there is a hole, 1 1/4" in diameter in the bottom of the tank. Obviously something was supposed to go in that hole. Low fluid sensor perhaps...even though I don't have a warning light indicator on my dash. The owners manual indicates that this light indicator on certain models where equipped.
Since my model is not equipped with this feature, is there a rubber plug or grommet that should plug up this hole?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that in winter does very strange things, almost ghostly. While driving, headlights flicker on and off, the dash abs and esc warning lights go on, and rpm's shoot up and stay there as if it downshifted by itself. I have to pull off the road and turn the car off.
Further, three different times I shut the car off and then nothing would work, including not being able to start the car. After it sits a while it then seems to reprogram itself and works properly.
I contacted Hyundai, and they only said bring it in and pay to diagnose it. But there appears to be no fix, as many have reported electrical problems for this model on the internet.
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So my car has been dying. I was told they tested alternator, but they said it was charging and replaced my battery. So 1 week later it has had a few lights pop on but it didn't die... and so today it is just like it was before replacing the battery. Headlights and dashboard dim and a bunch of dashboard lights come on. Such as battery, abs, break, tcs, airbag and maybe something else.. after getting a jump it happened again and I noticed everything was stopping on the dashboard.. while driving even the speed jumped up and down and landed on 0... any tips?
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I just picked up a 2010 Elantra with only 74,000kms on it. During the safety inspection the mechanic noticed that the car was leaking oil from the lower half of the engine. Are there any common spots I should look for a leak? The car didn't smoke or appear to burn any oil on the 3 hour drive home, and still appears to be full when checking the dipstick.
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At seemingly random times when I take my Elantra to the gas station it will only fill the tank about half way before clicking off. After doing some quick google searches I'm leaning towards something being wrong with CCV system. I read that over filling the tank can cause debris to clog the system and a few months back my father-in-law borrowed it he has a tendency to overfill the gas tank. But I've also read that there's an error code that tends to pop up with it and so far there's been none. Either way I'm not familiar with how the CCV and related systems work.
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I just bought my 2012 Elantra Limited from the dealer today . The fuel gauge showed about two bars, a quarter tank I estimated. However when I went to fuel it, the pump clicked off after about 1 gallon, indicating the tank was full.
That was odd so I just figured there was some air in the tank or in the hose, so I tried adding some more fuel. I got about a half gallon more added when it clicked off again. Well, I know you're not supposed to top off the tank so I tried to add more. Got about two gallons added when it clicked off. I stopped fueling at that point for fear of causing damage.
My fuel gauge now shows a little less than half full. How can that be? Is there something I can do to fix this?
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I have recently replaced the clutch, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, Strut tower mounts and brakes on my 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. Everything is working properly but now I have a transmission fluid leak. I can not locate the exact location. It appears that it is dripping down onto the passenger side half axle where it connects at the transmission.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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