Hyundai - Elantra :: 2014 - Get Into Idle Mode And Would Not Go Above 1250 RPM
Apr 25, 2016
I had driven my car over 13 miles when it went into an idle mode and would not go above 1250 rpm. After dealership did approved tests they stated #4 piston had 25 lbs pressure and needed to be replaced. After breaking down the motor, they dealership stated that my car was vandalized and I have attached picture of the wood chips sitting on the piston. Dealer stated that someone placed the wood chips down my spark plug chamber. First door always locked and 2nd no damage to the hood and 3td how was I able to drive 13 miles before the car shut down, 4th chips look like brand new with no damage and not discolored and there was no smell of fuel on the chips.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
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when car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
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A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
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So i noticed, when in auto mode, whether sport mode is on or off, it does the same thing. If i floor it from a stand still, the transmission takes noticeably longer to go from 1st into 2nd then from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. 1st to 2nd takes like a good second, kinda like this:
1st VROOOOM.....................2nd VROOOM..3rd VROOOM..4th.....etc..
If I drive it in manual mode, then it shifts just as fast. So this only happens in auto.
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After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
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I own a Hyundai Accent 2013, and need to turn off eco mode . It's a beep noise which occurs when my car raises 40 km/h, 60 km/h , 80 km/h and so on.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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So about 6 months ago I got new brakes on my car (2009 Hyundai Elantra). It was done by a independent repair shop. A few weeks later the brakes started making really weird noises, so I took it back to the shop and they took a look at them and they said everything seemed to be fine. So the next couple weeks there was no noise, but after a month or so the same thing happened again, I took them back to the shop they said everything looked fine and the noise stopped once again, but after a couple months later this happened again! and its been frustrating.
So when I took it to the dealership for oil change, I asked the guy to check the brakes for me and he said everything looked good, but if I had them changed in an independent repair shop they probably put generic ones which don't have some kind of lubricant that keeps them from making noises, that this happens sometimes, and if I wanted to fix it, new brakes had to be installed and they need to be the dealership brand which is for Hyundai cars. How true is this? I'm very naive when it comes to cars so I don't know whats going on.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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My car has been having issues lately, I'll have the heat or air on (doesn't matter which), and I'll hear a click (like a pen click) and it will go off, then it will click again and go back on. Last year it only did this a couple of times and I solved the problem by hitting the dashboard, obviously. But now it's doing it every time I drive, and since it's winter I kind of need the heat to stay on. What is the problem?
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My problem is gas cut on my Elantra 2001. Here is how it happened; Last week I filled up my tank with regular gasoline then added middle quality gas this time. I always use middle quality gas but once I made a mistake and filled with regular. Then my reliable elantra started stumble and cut gas few times in a day. What would be the problem?
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Like a lot of others, my 2000 Elantra will just barely take gas at the pump. So I've done the research, I think I understand the problem, but when I tried to find the replacement filter, there seem to be 4 different parts ranging from $8 to $180. Which part should I order and order first, or should I just replace them all?
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I got my oil changed and tires balanced Saturday at the local shop around the corner. Now my alarm goes off randomly and when I use the clicker thing to lock the car, the horn doesn't make the beep sound it used to on the the second click. It never did this prior to having the oil changed, but how could that have anything to do with the alarm? I need to figure out how to make it stop, it's waking me (and my neighbors) up at night, and I have to keep leaving where ever I am to go out and see if the dang thing is going off again, which it is about half the time.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra and the previous owner called it "quirky". She said to turn the AC or heat off you have to have the setting on 4 not 0 and a few other things. She forgot to mention sometimes it just won't start. Last night when I went to drive to get some take out the car just would not start. The radio and lights turn on but the engine wouldn't start. There was no noise of the engine even trying to start. I made sure the car was in park and now I'm just confused. I called the previous owner (my boyfriend's sister) and she said when that happen she would make sure the lights, radio, and AC were turned off and jam the car into park. I tried all of this and it didn't work so I called her again and she said sometimes you just "need to wait it out"....this morning I tried the car again and it turned on with no problem but I am paranoid it will happen again on the road trip I have planned for this weekend.
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I have a 2002 Elantra that has been in shop 3xs for same thing. The car says it is missfiring on 1 and I have changed wires, coil pack and spark plugs with no success.
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My check engine light comes and goes on as it pleases. When I check the code it says P0011 for cam timing too advanced. That said, I have 0 symptoms for this code, my car runs great, average 30mpg, smooth idle and shifting. My inspection is coming up and I cant have this light on when I take it in. What to do to diagnose why its on, or how to replace the appropriate part. A ball park price is great too.
Vehicle has 134K miles and is well maintained.
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I have a 4 cylinder manual transmission that the cruise control won't set. The light will come on it just won't set. I don't see any vacuum hoses and can't find any blown fuses. All the lights brakes, parking, and flashers seem to be working fine.
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I love my 01 Elantra great gas mileage and it just zips around with no problems. Recently had an issue where i was depressing the gas pedal but it just decelerated and never was able to get above about 20mph. I pulled over, tapped on a few parts in the engine and restarted the car... the problem went away. It has some hesitaion when I accelerate. The check engine does not come on ever not even when I start the car . . . What the problem might be ? MAF, modules, ECM.... ?
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