Hyundai - Elantra :: 2009 - EPS Light Came On / Power Steering Went Out
Jul 16, 2013
In March 2012, the EPS light came on in my Elantra and the power steering went out. At first, when I would restart the car, the light would go off for a time and the power steering would work, but soon it would revert to EPS light and no power steering. I took it to the dealer who ran a couple of updates and tightened a loose connection. All was well until January 2013, when the EPS light came on again and the power steering quit working. No amount of restarting, crossing fingers, or using bad language, would make the light go off and return the steering to normal. Back to the dealer I went. This time the verdict was bad.
Now, in July 2013, my battery (which I had replaced in January 2013) died. Seriously died. Not a sound, not a click. When the car was jump-started, imagine my surprise when the EPS light was out and the power steering worked. After a new battery was in place, the power steering continued to work just fine - so far. My question is this. Would a bad/low battery have anything to do with the EPS malfunctioning? Today, I took the car in for a recall fix and asked this question of the service manager. He said, of course not, but to keep my fingers crossed and hope that it continues to work. So, how can a steering column that needs to be replaced, suddenly begin to work at precisely the moment there is a full electrical charge available to the car? How can there not be a connection?
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First, while driving, my radio dies, my lights start to dim, and I lose my power steering. The first local shop I took it to installed a new alternator and I drove it home. Died again while I was driving. They then replaced three alternators with same results thinking they were bad. Ended up refunding my $400 and putting my original alternator back in and I had my car towed to the Hyundai dealer.
They had car for four days while testing it after charging the battery. They could find nothing wrong with it(again, no charge). Picked it up and drove it home(with someone following me). Two day latter, dead again. What is draining my battery? Do I have a short or something?
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My girl friends car is doing something interesting, well it started off the car died while she was driving home from work, so I towed it with my truck home, the alternator had went bad so i changed that, but no here is where the problem comes in that i cant figure out, the car will start and run for about 3 miles than it will die in and out, loose power but not kill the engine and the check engine light flashes, and now the radio does not work at all (at idle or running) and the head lights are dim.i tested the battery, it was with in ranges for cold starting, output while the car is on and a few other thing, i re checked my belts and they are all tight and in the correct alignment ...
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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My check engine light comes and goes on as it pleases. When I check the code it says P0011 for cam timing too advanced. That said, I have 0 symptoms for this code, my car runs great, average 30mpg, smooth idle and shifting. My inspection is coming up and I cant have this light on when I take it in. What to do to diagnose why its on, or how to replace the appropriate part. A ball park price is great too.
Vehicle has 134K miles and is well maintained.
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I had my vehicle in last week due to a sticking in my steering wheel. An alignment was completed, however the issues still persists. When driving at 60 mph+, and when having to correct the wheel, there is a slight stick in the wheel. On a side note, my CV joint already had to be replaced!
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My Mom has a 2009 Hyundai Elantra, 25k, good car no problems until yesterday. Turn the key and it cranks (turns the engine over for a second) then the starter kicks off (spins real and stops spinning the engine). It won't start like this. The car only has 25k on it, with the Hyundai 100k warranty.
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I have a 2009 hyundai elantra an think that i need to reset the computer.
The car is not starting and all lights are flashing dimly. I get no clock or meter numbers but the light are dim blue and flashing. The horn is also going off but almost silent.
I unhooked the battery and reconnected but with no luck. This is the most I know. I have the car manual with me and a laptop.
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Hyundai Elantra SE ("sedan"?), 2009, manual - after the dealer replaced the brake light switch (or some such) as a recall service, soon after - but perhaps unrelated - the cruise control doesn't work at all from the driver controls. No nothing. All of a sudden. I read about the relays, fuses, however didn't make much of it - overlooked perhaps....
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I have a 2010 Elantra 4dSD 2.0 DOHC. 61, 522 miles on it.
I have had no issues with the car until about 2 weeks ago. Suddenly the EPS light came on and I lost power steering. Upon pulling over and restarting the car the problem went away. I went about a week, and suddenly it did it again. Restarted car, went away, still does this intermittently.
I took it to the dealer, they found the following codes:
EPS - Electronic Power - C1259 - Steering Angle Sensor Electrical
EPS - Electronic Power - C1290 - Torque Sensor Main Signal Fault
EPS - Electronic Power - C1604ECU(Brake System) Hardware error
EPS - Electronic Power - C2400 - Motor
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1202 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1208 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1211 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
They reset the codes, and EPS Reflash. Recalibrated EPS. They told me if the problem comes back I would need a new steering column ($1500+). This seems a bit strange to me for an intermittent issue. It would almost seem to me that if multiple sensors are effected that they are receiving bad data from somewhere. Could the ABS sensors be causing this problem with bad data? I've also heard a failing battery could cause this type of issue.
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Having problems with Elanta 2009's electronic power steering system? I was driving my car and the power steering went unexpectedly almost causing an accident. I shut the car off and when it was re-started, it was working again and EPS light was off. I am taking it to the dealership soon to see what they will do. It has also been making a loud squealing sound for a few months now. It started out occasionally making noise when I would back up or turn the wheel to the side but is now squealing pretty consistently. I had it looked into when I got an oil change and no one can figure out what it is from. All of my belts were checked and are tight. I believe it's linked to the power steering.
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Our emissions light lit up on the dash board of our Elantra. I took the car into the garage we have been taking it to for 5 years. The new office manager said we need front brake pads and new rotor and a new AC belt. and then they discovered the rear o2 sensor needs to be replaced.
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My reverse lights stopped working and i was told that it is my reverse light switch. so i order a replacement. I took out the old and put in the new one but now the lights won't turn off.
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Engine light shows" Airbag". Ram Auto did a diagnostic and error code did not show up. Ram tried to delete the code, could not. They suggested search re-calls since this is a hot topic in the news about Hyundai's problem with airbag opening without cause. Did a research and there are no re-call for the year 2003-there are re-call for the year 2004. If the airbag light stays on and there is cause for it to open, it will not.
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My daughter's 2010 Corolla has an issue . She was driving and the battery light came. She kept driving and the car finally stopped. Prior to stopping the power steering stopped. I checked under the hood. I found corrosion on the positive battery post. I cleaned it and put a new end on and replaced the battery. The red battery light is still on which I guess indicates we need a new alternator. The power steering still doesn't work.Will a bad alternator keep the power steering from working? Could there be a fuseable link or relay for the electric power steering some where I should check? I hope the alternator is the fix. I checked on a new power steering motor which is part of the rack and assembly. I hope I don't have to replace these.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
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The blue cool engine light went off today. What does that mean?
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I’m having an issue with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra cutting off, and what to check for next. Basically I have a very intermittent issue where the car seems to lose electrical power for a split second (or possibly total loss of gas – as in, it doesn’t seem to be misfiring, just seems to totally lose all power). If it happens when I first start the car up, the car will start up for a second and then cut off. It also happens randomly when driving at any speed, and when it happens while driving, it just goes out for a split second, and then cuts back on and I can keep driving, so the RPMs Rev up for a second as a result when it kicks back on, but then goes back to normal. But it is completely intermittent, as in, some days it will not do it at all on my 30-min drive to work. I even went a whole week without it happening. But this week it has come back. Some days it will do it 3 times, some days 20 times. Some days its hard to get my car started, because it keeps cutting off when I start it. But so far after I try around 5-10 times it will start up and keep going. Also, this may indicate nothing, but when it goes out for that split second, I can hear a click, or electrical sounding click coming from the dash/instrument panel area. Which is what makes it seem electrical in nature, but I could be wrong, could be a spark/gas thing.
This has been happening it seems no matter what the weather is outside (its been anywhere from the 20s to 60s here in the last few weeks) and it doesn’t seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Also, so far the check engine light has not come on, so it makes me think it might not be a sensor, since those will usually trigger the light when they start going bad. Also, when the car is running, it runs perfect. Idles perfect, drives perfect, no misfires, no hesitation, etc. The ONLY problem is it cutting out. Also, it doesn’t seem to matter if the fuel tank is full or half empty. I had read in one place that if the vapor recovery charcoal canister gets full of gas, it will vent liquid fuel instead of vapor, which can result in car cutting off or running rough, but this usually only happens when fuel tank is full. So I suppose it could be this, but I doubt it.The car has 180k miles. Iridium plugs have 60k on them. Wires have 60k on them. Original fuel pump and fuel filter. I wouldn’t think it would be the filter since when it runs it runs perfect. I guess could possibly be the pump having an intermittent issue. Trying to avoid replacing that for now unless I knew it was the problem.
What I’ve done so far:
•I made sure the battery cables are tight and clean at the connection
•I checked as many grounds as I could find, they all seem good
•Alternator puts out a perfect amount of voltage
•I swapped the ECU main relay and fuse with another relay and fuse in the fuse box that were identical
•I swapped the Fuel Pump relay with an identical one in the box
•I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor
•I cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor (though it looked spotless)
•I looked around for any vacuum hoses that were disconnected. Didn’t find any
•I’ve tried resetting the ECU (unplug battery for a while) and I thought that fixed it at first, but then it came back a few days later. And now resetting ECU seems to have no effect.
Some possibilities of what it could be:
•Fuel pump intermittent issue?
•Camshaft position sensor?
•ECU problem?
•Catalytic convertor going bad?
•Some other sensor going bad?
•Possibly the vapor recovery charcoal canister is full of fuel as described above
•ignition coils – but I doubt it since you’d usually get a misfire/engine light when those go bad (from experience)
•Fuel pressure regulator – but I doubt it, based on the symptoms. Seems like I’d have other symptoms.
I’m not convinced of any of these above, and some of them I wouldn’t know how to check (like for a bad ECU). What it might be? Getting nervous driving 75mph on the interstate with someone behind me and the car cutting out. Luckily so far it doesn’t cut completely off when I’m up to speed with someone behind me!
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My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (5-speed manual) with about 185,000 miles on it, which has developed an issue within the last 2 months. The car acts like it is shut off for a split second - tachometer drops suddenly, check engine light flashes very briefly and you lurch a little bit as you lose power, but then after maybe a second, it is back to normal. This has happened while accelerating, cruising down the highway, and idling at a stop sign. The car hasn't actually killed while idling, but is close.
Had it in to a mechanic, and they checked for error codes but found none, and of course it didn't happen while the mechanic had it. On a recent 2 hour trip, it happened maybe 50 times? But hasn't happened for the last week. I should mention that we had the exhaust manifold/front catalytic converter replaced about 3 months ago, as well as a camshaft sensor (those had error codes before we changed them). We've done the recommended maintenance over the years, but are due for another plug/wire replacement (could this be the issue?).
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Car Make/Model: 2001 Hyundai Elantra
So, in order to access the parking garage at work, free of charge, I MUST swipe my ID badge upon entering and exiting. That requires lowering my driver window (front left window) and extending my hand out. So, I pressed the switch downward to roll the window down, and I heard a small pop or click and all the sudden the switch was stuck in the downward position and my window would just roll all the way down. I would flick it upward, the window goes up, but then it retakes its downward position. I have to apply my window lock to keep it upward and sometimes I have to hold the switch up and immediately turn my car off to keep the window from rolling back down.
The window rolls up and down like it normally would. There is no slowness or delay.....the motion still seems pretty smooth.
Questions:
What are the possible problems and solutions?
How much to fix it, if I choose to?
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE, about 58k miles. The latest work I did was replace the brake pads, rotate the tires and changed the oil a little over 2 weeks ago. Everything was normal so far. Yesterday I drove for about an hour, again everything was fine, but after stopping at a gas station and starting I have several indicator lights come on.
- Slip indicator, flashing
- TRAC OFF, constant
- ABS, flashing
- Electric power steering warning light, flashes but turns off after about 30 seconds.
I tried my OBD scanner with no luck, but figures since there was no Check Engine light.
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