Hyundai - Elantra :: 2009 - CEL Comes On / Code P0011
Jan 4, 2014
My check engine light comes and goes on as it pleases. When I check the code it says P0011 for cam timing too advanced. That said, I have 0 symptoms for this code, my car runs great, average 30mpg, smooth idle and shifting. My inspection is coming up and I cant have this light on when I take it in. What to do to diagnose why its on, or how to replace the appropriate part. A ball park price is great too.
Vehicle has 134K miles and is well maintained.
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In March 2012, the EPS light came on in my Elantra and the power steering went out. At first, when I would restart the car, the light would go off for a time and the power steering would work, but soon it would revert to EPS light and no power steering. I took it to the dealer who ran a couple of updates and tightened a loose connection. All was well until January 2013, when the EPS light came on again and the power steering quit working. No amount of restarting, crossing fingers, or using bad language, would make the light go off and return the steering to normal. Back to the dealer I went. This time the verdict was bad.
Now, in July 2013, my battery (which I had replaced in January 2013) died. Seriously died. Not a sound, not a click. When the car was jump-started, imagine my surprise when the EPS light was out and the power steering worked. After a new battery was in place, the power steering continued to work just fine - so far. My question is this. Would a bad/low battery have anything to do with the EPS malfunctioning? Today, I took the car in for a recall fix and asked this question of the service manager. He said, of course not, but to keep my fingers crossed and hope that it continues to work. So, how can a steering column that needs to be replaced, suddenly begin to work at precisely the moment there is a full electrical charge available to the car? How can there not be a connection?
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My Mom has a 2009 Hyundai Elantra, 25k, good car no problems until yesterday. Turn the key and it cranks (turns the engine over for a second) then the starter kicks off (spins real and stops spinning the engine). It won't start like this. The car only has 25k on it, with the Hyundai 100k warranty.
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I have a 2009 hyundai elantra an think that i need to reset the computer.
The car is not starting and all lights are flashing dimly. I get no clock or meter numbers but the light are dim blue and flashing. The horn is also going off but almost silent.
I unhooked the battery and reconnected but with no luck. This is the most I know. I have the car manual with me and a laptop.
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Hyundai Elantra SE ("sedan"?), 2009, manual - after the dealer replaced the brake light switch (or some such) as a recall service, soon after - but perhaps unrelated - the cruise control doesn't work at all from the driver controls. No nothing. All of a sudden. I read about the relays, fuses, however didn't make much of it - overlooked perhaps....
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I have a 2007 GLS. Within the past year I had about 4 or 5 difficult starts. Just recently I got a CEL with cod P0011. I replaced the OCV as that is the usual culprit. Within 6 miles of clearing the CEL, I am still getting the same CEL. I am wondering if the problem is either the wiring harness or the Camshaft Position Sensor.
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In the last four months, I have been getting intermittent error code P0011 on my 2008 prius. I notice that it comes usually when I am going up/down a major hill or going really fast.
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Check engine light and P0010 code in my Gen III 2010 Prius...
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I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
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I now have a p0011 code on my 2001 passat 1.8t aug. this is a thinker because right before the test drive around the block i did the following
- coolant flush
-replaced the fuel filter
-cleaned the knn air filter
-rotated the tires
-oil change with new castrol 5w-40 syn. and 1/2 a bottle of lucas syn oil stabilizer.
With a few phone calls a possible cause is the timing chain skipped a tooth cause of the lucas being to thick, other cause could be the tensioner finally went out?
Right know the car car has a rough idle and seems to be finding idle , and a noise from the engine around 4000 rpm.
I am waiting for the engine to cool off before i open her up to check timing.. if the chain is off a a tooth what could be the cause?
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Ok not that last part, but I'm working on grandma's 08 Taurus V6, light blue. The first symptom was the check engine light, flagging P0011 camshaft adv timing bank 1. When I popped the hood there was a bad rattling/ticking noise from the valve covers. Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car. No bubbles from the reservoir and compression check was good.
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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I have already concluded I need to replace my OCV on my 2007 2.4L GLS Sonata.
I have also been starting to hear a clicking noise associated with reducing throttle when in the 2500-3100 rpm range. It seems to only make this quiet clicking noise when the throttle is reducing and within the RPM range from above.
I am just wondering if this may be associated with the OCV needing to be replaced. I suppose I will find out for sure when I do finally get around to replacing the OCV sometime this month.
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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2005 GTI 1.8t Engine ... I changed my timing belt water pump and tensioner yesterday and today I am receiving an engine code: P0011 Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing - Over Advanced (Bank 1) My friend timed the engine and knew that is was 1 tooth advanced. He told me that is was going to be OK because 1.8t's have a 1 tooth tolerance. I would have redone it but I did not know how. What to do in this situation? Do I need to re time the engine?
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Got a cel on a 2009 Elantra the other day. Put my cheapie code reader on it and got a double hit on P0441. It showed two codes, both P0441. This is the first time I got this code. I had gotten gas the day before and thought it might be from over filling or a loose gas cap like my S10. I made sure the gas cap was tight and went to reset the code. It would not reset even though the code reader said "Done". Checked today and there is only 1 P0441 code showing. Tried to reset, but the same thing. Code reader says "Done" and the code remains.
Car starts and runs fine. I see no loose wires or anything amiss. I did hit a curb a few days ago. What could I have knocked loose? Do I need to go to someone with a better code reader? Is this a drive cycle thing?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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So about 6 months ago I got new brakes on my car (2009 Hyundai Elantra). It was done by a independent repair shop. A few weeks later the brakes started making really weird noises, so I took it back to the shop and they took a look at them and they said everything seemed to be fine. So the next couple weeks there was no noise, but after a month or so the same thing happened again, I took them back to the shop they said everything looked fine and the noise stopped once again, but after a couple months later this happened again! and its been frustrating.
So when I took it to the dealership for oil change, I asked the guy to check the brakes for me and he said everything looked good, but if I had them changed in an independent repair shop they probably put generic ones which don't have some kind of lubricant that keeps them from making noises, that this happens sometimes, and if I wanted to fix it, new brakes had to be installed and they need to be the dealership brand which is for Hyundai cars. How true is this? I'm very naive when it comes to cars so I don't know whats going on.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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My car has been having issues lately, I'll have the heat or air on (doesn't matter which), and I'll hear a click (like a pen click) and it will go off, then it will click again and go back on. Last year it only did this a couple of times and I solved the problem by hitting the dashboard, obviously. But now it's doing it every time I drive, and since it's winter I kind of need the heat to stay on. What is the problem?
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My problem is gas cut on my Elantra 2001. Here is how it happened; Last week I filled up my tank with regular gasoline then added middle quality gas this time. I always use middle quality gas but once I made a mistake and filled with regular. Then my reliable elantra started stumble and cut gas few times in a day. What would be the problem?
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