Hyundai - Elantra :: 2008 - No Visual Sign Of Remote Lock?
Mar 8, 2013
The only issue I have with my newly acquired '08 Elantra is that there is no visual signal that the remote lock signal has been received. When I unlock it remotely, I get a single flash of lights, but nothing of the sort happens when I lock it; if I'm close enough, I hear the click of the locks engaging. I find nothing in the owner's manual describing any of it.
Is this normal, or do I have some weird computer anomaly going on?
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I unlocked my 2010 Elantra yesterday afternoon with the fob. Opened the passenger front door. Turned on the ignition to Accessory for a while, then turned off, removed key, closed door, and locked with the fob. Sometime after dark, a neighbor alerted me that the car lights were on. I checked, all the doors were completely closed and the trunk was shut. The key fob would unlock/lock the car, but the lights would not go off (they were in the "automatic" position and normally work just as they should). Pushing the lock button twice would not beep the horn, either. So I turned the light switch completely off, and that did turn them off. Even the dome light would not go off until I put the switch in "off" position. By then, the battery was too drained to start the car so I put it on a charger for a while. This morning it started and all the remote functions seem to work as they should.
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I purchased a NEW 2008 Hyundai Keyless Remote on the internet. It didn't come with programming instructions. How to program this remote.
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I have a 2008 prius and I realized today that the driver side rear door will not lock. All the other doors lock except the rear driver side door. I tried locking it using the remote, but it didn't lock. I tried locking it with the lock button in the car by the driver which didn't work. When i try to push the lever by the door handle, it doesn't move.
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Remotes suddenly will not lock/unlock doors or open trunk.Background - guy left key in ignition in 'on' position overnight. Also thunderstorm with very near lightning strike during that time.Battery dead in am, though after jump start it was not necessary to reset radio, clock, etc.Neither remote works.Checked the door lock fuse - looks OK, but did not replace it as there were no spares in the spare slots.Where else to look for the problem?
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My daughter's 2008 Elantra starts fine and seems to be idling okay. But recently at seemingly random times the car will stall within a few yards after she starts driving from a cold start. She will start the car, start to drive and then all of the dash lights come on and the engine shuts off. So far she has been able to turn the key and immediately restart the car and then it is fine after that. The problem always seems to occur after she has driven somewhere, let the car sit for a couple hours and then tries to drive again. We took to our mechanic and they said there are no diagnostic codes and the fuel pressure seems good. They did identify some kind of voltage drop/issue with the mass airflow sensor and replaced it. But a day later the problem occurred again. Mechanic seems stumped. I'm very worried about my teenage daughter driving a car that randomly stalls.
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My 2008 Hyundai Elantra likes to play KeepAway.
The driver's door randomly locks itself when I get out of the car. Just the driver's door. I have learned either to make sure the others are unlocked or to take my keys with me, even if it's just to pump gas.
Might this be some easily replaceable or resettable circuitry, or do I just have to live with it?
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I have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
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I have a 2008 Hyndai Elantra with an automatic transmission. Since the first week I have had my car when the fuel is low (under a half of tank) the car tends to hesitate like it wants to stall, or momentarily shifts into a higher gear than it needs to be for the situation; the rmp's get very low. As the tank drops further below half full, the problem gets progressively worse, especially while trying to accelerate hard; i.e. entering the highway, starting from a red light, etc (times requiring a lower gear). I have brought my car to the dealer for service three times also asking them about this problem. Each time they can not replicate the problem which seems ridiculous since it is difficult to not have the problem when the tank is low.
The day I purchased my car I was speaking with another Elantra customer who was waiting for her car in the service department. She had just purchased her vehicle as well and already had to bring it in for a fuel pump recall. I believe the recall states that the fuel pump fails and causes the car to stall, sounds very similar to what my car wants to do. I have asked about this recall on my vehicle and have been told that it does not affect my car.
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The blue cool engine light went off today. What does that mean?
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I have a 2008 elantra. It has 71600 miles on it. New brakes, & tires. 2 tires were changed year and 2 more the previous year. I have been hearing a constant sound and starting to feel a mild vibration on the pedal. First I went to a mechanic and he said I need to change the belts. Got that done, no respite. Next went to another, he said i probably need to get the wheel alignment done as the tires seem 'cupped' on the inside.
Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty with the V10 engine. I purchased it when it was @111k miles. When I got it the passenger side lock did not always work and after time they both stopped. I have ready the post on how to repair them for little or no money that is not my question. My question Is there a way that I can tell if the truck had a remote for the locks when it was new and if not could I put it in the truck? Yes my wife likes that I unlock her door first but a remote would be nice when it is raining.
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I have a 2010 Prius with about 51,000 miles on it. About a month ago the front passenger lock actuator began failing and wouldn't lock/unlock with the remote. I had to manually slide the lock shut before I exited the car or it would keep beeping when I pressed the lock button on the remote.
Well, now the driver's side door is doing the same thing. When I touch the front door handle (to unlock the doors) it beeps like 8 times while it tries to unlock all four doors. I have to open the back drivers-side door and manually unlock the front door so I can drive the car.
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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This just showed up after I washed my car this morning.
What it means and how to remove it from my dash?
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I have noticed, in my 2012 Elantra with 32,000 miles on it, that my car is shaking at idle. I'll be at a red light or stop sign and the vibration is SUPER annoying. I have had it tested at a Hyundai Dealership. They couldn't "replicate the problem" and nothing it wrong with my car.
I may be trading this car in for the Veloster Turbo. I'm tired of how slow this car is. I know I sacrificed speed for gas mileage, but I have a question, does the Veloster have this problem as well?
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My 2nd gen 2007 Prius started to show a strange behavior today and I don't find any answer to it. While driving without any cars close, with all seat belts closed and nothing on the passenger seat I started to hear slow paced beeps (approx. 20) then fast paced beeps. When I switch off the car and started it again I got the same beeps after approx. 30 seconds. I never got any visual warning and the OBD reader doesn't show any error code.
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So i thought great, it locks itself & I never have to remember to lock it! But then i tried it again and it did not lock!
So...when I lock the car with remote from a distance, then unlock it with remote from same distance, wait 30 seconds and it locks itself!!...great!
But....when I just get out of the car, walk off with remote in pocket, it DOES NOT lock! But i wish it would. Wouldn't it locking when you walk off be much better?
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When @ a light or stop sign the car vibrates excessively to the point it makes my daughter sick. I do feel it vibrating but it doesn't bother me but something is definitely wrong. There are no engine lights on, I can hear the top end tapping and clattering, I did check the valve clearances which seem to be barely within specs. She says it vibrates worse when the tank is full. She also said when the tank is full the front end shakes driving down the road. I'm kinda wondering the front end shaking with a full tank might be the rear struts.
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Turns out you can. Each door has a manual actuator on the inside door jam area beside the door catch. It's covered by one of the rubber grommets and the grommet has a symbol of a lock on it. If you remove the rubber cover, you can actuate the lock manually by inserting your key and turning it. All doors seem to have this. Mind you, I didn't check the trunk. I keep learning something with the Tiguan
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My 2007 elantra has been rumbling when i change gears occasionally and sometimes when stopping at a stop sign the car just dies. The car starts right up though as if nothing happened. It only happens like twice a week but i really want it fixed. I already changed the motor mount next to the engine block on the left. Could it be the motor mount connecting to the transmission?
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