Hyundai - Elantra :: 2008 - At Start Up Stalls Randomly
Jul 20, 2016
My daughter's 2008 Elantra starts fine and seems to be idling okay. But recently at seemingly random times the car will stall within a few yards after she starts driving from a cold start. She will start the car, start to drive and then all of the dash lights come on and the engine shuts off. So far she has been able to turn the key and immediately restart the car and then it is fine after that. The problem always seems to occur after she has driven somewhere, let the car sit for a couple hours and then tries to drive again. We took to our mechanic and they said there are no diagnostic codes and the fuel pressure seems good. They did identify some kind of voltage drop/issue with the mass airflow sensor and replaced it. But a day later the problem occurred again. Mechanic seems stumped. I'm very worried about my teenage daughter driving a car that randomly stalls.
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My 2008 Hyundai Elantra likes to play KeepAway.
The driver's door randomly locks itself when I get out of the car. Just the driver's door. I have learned either to make sure the others are unlocked or to take my keys with me, even if it's just to pump gas.
Might this be some easily replaceable or resettable circuitry, or do I just have to live with it?
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I got my oil changed and tires balanced Saturday at the local shop around the corner. Now my alarm goes off randomly and when I use the clicker thing to lock the car, the horn doesn't make the beep sound it used to on the the second click. It never did this prior to having the oil changed, but how could that have anything to do with the alarm? I need to figure out how to make it stop, it's waking me (and my neighbors) up at night, and I have to keep leaving where ever I am to go out and see if the dang thing is going off again, which it is about half the time.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Runs great, except for the last two months, every time I fill it with gas, it tries to stall out when I start it. Once I get it running for a minute or so, it is fine until the next time I fill it with gas. Tried filling it with premium gas a few times to see if that made a difference...it didn't. Took it to my mechanic; he said the car was fine. This only happens at the gas pump and no other time.
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My car runs great, no problems at all. I go for a drive then turn the car off, come back, fuel pump DOES prime when i open the door. Go to start it back up and it starts right up for about 2 seconds, chugs, then stalls out. I try turning the car back on and it just turns over not getting any fuel. wait 5 minutes(once i hear the fuel pump prime again), starts right up.
I replaced my crankshaft positioning sensor and the stalling went away completely... for one week. Today I come out of class, start the car, stalls out and wouldn't start for over an hour. drove it around the rest of the day no problem turning it off and on. its completely random. No check engine light..? fuel relay?
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata. The car sometimes and randomly won't 'turn-over'. I get a check-engine light but this may go away, also. I've gotten stuck at random locations and if I wait maybe 10-15 minutes, the car sometimes starts again.
The worst incident was when the car started but would not go past 10-15mph.
I've taken the car to a garage and they've checked the computer and it seems to indicate a throttle issue. They cleaned it and the car was fine for a couple of weeks, but now having similar incidents where it randomly won't start.
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I just bought a 2000 VW passat GLS 1.8T, and I'm having a very odd problem with it... I have trouble starting it, almost like the starter is going out, then it starts and runs fine, then I'll be driving and the screen on the gauge cluster will say stop and I'll start getting a beep, if I don't stop the car dies, if I do then it just sort of putters for a second and then goes back to normal, when it dies it loses all power completely everything shuts off then it resets. At first I thought it was the starter, then it started doing this.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 - stalls randomly, sometimes will not start. After the IPR was replaced it was rough for about 4 miles (I thought maybe air in the system), next 40 miles was flawless with 3 stops and restarts. Then it sat for a few hours and I went to leave again and the problem was off and on again for another 5 mile drive. Now it won't start in the driveway. It will start if I disconnect the ICP but the idle is still a little rough.
I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:
CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
Grounds - found somewhere that the ground on the firewall for the windshield wipers can interfere with the CPS so I pulled it, clean the connections and made sure it was tight and secure.
No check engine light now - I received a few through the process, but did not clear them and there are no codes at this time (self cleared on the 40 mile drive)
I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.
I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.
Below are my thoughts on the next steps.
Research and test fuel pressure
Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.
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I have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
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I have a 2008 Hyndai Elantra with an automatic transmission. Since the first week I have had my car when the fuel is low (under a half of tank) the car tends to hesitate like it wants to stall, or momentarily shifts into a higher gear than it needs to be for the situation; the rmp's get very low. As the tank drops further below half full, the problem gets progressively worse, especially while trying to accelerate hard; i.e. entering the highway, starting from a red light, etc (times requiring a lower gear). I have brought my car to the dealer for service three times also asking them about this problem. Each time they can not replicate the problem which seems ridiculous since it is difficult to not have the problem when the tank is low.
The day I purchased my car I was speaking with another Elantra customer who was waiting for her car in the service department. She had just purchased her vehicle as well and already had to bring it in for a fuel pump recall. I believe the recall states that the fuel pump fails and causes the car to stall, sounds very similar to what my car wants to do. I have asked about this recall on my vehicle and have been told that it does not affect my car.
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The blue cool engine light went off today. What does that mean?
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The only issue I have with my newly acquired '08 Elantra is that there is no visual signal that the remote lock signal has been received. When I unlock it remotely, I get a single flash of lights, but nothing of the sort happens when I lock it; if I'm close enough, I hear the click of the locks engaging. I find nothing in the owner's manual describing any of it.
Is this normal, or do I have some weird computer anomaly going on?
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I have a 2008 elantra. It has 71600 miles on it. New brakes, & tires. 2 tires were changed year and 2 more the previous year. I have been hearing a constant sound and starting to feel a mild vibration on the pedal. First I went to a mechanic and he said I need to change the belts. Got that done, no respite. Next went to another, he said i probably need to get the wheel alignment done as the tires seem 'cupped' on the inside.
Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra and the previous owner called it "quirky". She said to turn the AC or heat off you have to have the setting on 4 not 0 and a few other things. She forgot to mention sometimes it just won't start. Last night when I went to drive to get some take out the car just would not start. The radio and lights turn on but the engine wouldn't start. There was no noise of the engine even trying to start. I made sure the car was in park and now I'm just confused. I called the previous owner (my boyfriend's sister) and she said when that happen she would make sure the lights, radio, and AC were turned off and jam the car into park. I tried all of this and it didn't work so I called her again and she said sometimes you just "need to wait it out"....this morning I tried the car again and it turned on with no problem but I am paranoid it will happen again on the road trip I have planned for this weekend.
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We have a 2007 Certified Pre-Owned Hyundai Elantra that overall we're quite happy with. Several weeks ago, the engine light came on, and after a nightmarish week (the shop put in a faulty O2 sensor, although we didn't know it at the time - the engine light just kept coming back on. Took it to dealer, who I prefer not to go to -- it's far, for one thing -- and they said the O2 sensor was faulty. Dealer replaced it, got my money back from the shop, and no more engine light).
HOWEVER, the exact same day that the engine light came on for the very first time, it took me several tries to turn on the car. This happens sporadically, and it's taken up to 6 tries to start the car. (No stalling, though). My wife has had no problems at all with her key, although she drives the car somewhat less than I do, but not by much. She thinks it might have something to do with my key. I think it's related to the O2 sensor, although that issue is now fixed (I hope) and I'm still having trouble starting the car.
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I have a 2004 Elantra and recently every time I pump gas, the car doesn't want to start without pumping/hold down the gas pedal. Why is it doing this?
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Can not get it to start. Turns over. Replaced wires, coils, ECM, check fuses and fuel pump is on. Power to coils.
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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Hyundai 2007 Elentra Manual 5 speed..
Car won't start, Replaced Battery.
Have checked starter motor, its fine and cranking over
Have checked spark plugs and they are sparking.
Fuel pump wasn't working and after spending ages getting the back seats off and causing movement there, the car started. So fuel pump was replaced. Car went back to not starting after fuel pump replaced. Could this still be an associated issue with the 2008 recalls (Some components in the original fuel pump may be compromised by ethanol blended fuel.) Have checked relays and they seem to be working and fine. Have connected up and tried to find any fault readings come up and nothing is there.
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I have an 2012 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an intermittent issue with startup. When I go to start the car it cranks and just when you'd expect it to start it just drops out. I'm not letting up off the key too early, this happens as I'm still turning the key. All the dash lights stay on. When I try it again it starts right up. I did mention it to the dealer last time it was in and they said they looked it up and discovered the cable to my starter was loose so they tightened it. Clearly that hasn't fixed the problem.
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My 2006 Hyundai Elantra has developed an intermittent starting short that seems to only occur in damp conditions. The intermittent starting short/fault seems to only occur in the mornings when the car has sat overnight outside. When I put the key in the ignition all the regular lights and bells will ding as normal, but when the key is then turned from "on" to "start" the entire electrical system cuts off. No interior lights, gauges, dash lights, nothing. However, if I pop the hood and then drop it, electrical power will be restored. I have been doing this for the past two weeks while I tried to determine the conditions of the fault. This morning however, this "fix" wouldn't restore electrical power but the short occurred again in a cycle and the car never did start, despite trying the hood pop/drop method 10 times.
I had it towed to a shop this morning. When the car and I arrived, it started normally without issue. (of course!) I'm wondering if riding on the back of a tow truck dried out something or if that was immaterial. The person who looked at my car noticed a loose negative battery pole attachment and replaced the negative battery clamp. (His advice was to start small before needlessly pulling things off trying to find the fault.)
So, what could cause this or what course of action to pursue? The car has 94,000 miles and this is the first real issue it has had.
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