Hyundai - Elantra :: 2007 - No Acceleration Past 40 Mph
Feb 15, 2012
I think my transmission died today. My car wouldn't accelerate past 40 mph and a local maintenance man said there's no reverse. I think I have seen other complaints about this with the Hyundai's. What the specific problem can be? I'm going to have to have AAA tow the car to a transmission shop. I bought my car used and it's beyond 60,000.
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I love my 01 Elantra great gas mileage and it just zips around with no problems. Recently had an issue where i was depressing the gas pedal but it just decelerated and never was able to get above about 20mph. I pulled over, tapped on a few parts in the engine and restarted the car... the problem went away. It has some hesitaion when I accelerate. The check engine does not come on ever not even when I start the car . . . What the problem might be ? MAF, modules, ECM.... ?
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I came off the turnpike the other day stopped at a light and my car, 2006 Hyundai Elantra 175000 miles, started rolling backwards. I put my foot on the gas and there was no movement. Put the car and park and it wouldn't start. I pushed it into a gas station and the attendant (attendant, not mechanic there was no service station) changed the oil and added some coolant. The car then started up fine and I was able to drive a quarter mile to work. When I was driving home I immediately noticed that there was a change in acceleration. It takes forever for the car to speed up... Pedal to the floor and it is lagging greatly. It seems to be going up to 4500 rpms just to reach 40 mphs at a slow pace. Once the car gets up to 60 mph the rpms drop to normal. I haven't gone faster than 60 mph in it since this happened, but it seems to handle fine at that speed. The issue is getting up to that speed. I don't know if it is related, but the air conditioning is very weak since all this happened. I have to turn it off when I'm accelerating now. I've been planning on buying a new car soon, but I want this one to last just a little while longer.
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
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We have a 2007 Certified Pre-Owned Hyundai Elantra that overall we're quite happy with. Several weeks ago, the engine light came on, and after a nightmarish week (the shop put in a faulty O2 sensor, although we didn't know it at the time - the engine light just kept coming back on. Took it to dealer, who I prefer not to go to -- it's far, for one thing -- and they said the O2 sensor was faulty. Dealer replaced it, got my money back from the shop, and no more engine light).
HOWEVER, the exact same day that the engine light came on for the very first time, it took me several tries to turn on the car. This happens sporadically, and it's taken up to 6 tries to start the car. (No stalling, though). My wife has had no problems at all with her key, although she drives the car somewhat less than I do, but not by much. She thinks it might have something to do with my key. I think it's related to the O2 sensor, although that issue is now fixed (I hope) and I'm still having trouble starting the car.
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Hyundai 2007 Elentra Manual 5 speed..
Car won't start, Replaced Battery.
Have checked starter motor, its fine and cranking over
Have checked spark plugs and they are sparking.
Fuel pump wasn't working and after spending ages getting the back seats off and causing movement there, the car started. So fuel pump was replaced. Car went back to not starting after fuel pump replaced. Could this still be an associated issue with the 2008 recalls (Some components in the original fuel pump may be compromised by ethanol blended fuel.) Have checked relays and they seem to be working and fine. Have connected up and tried to find any fault readings come up and nothing is there.
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My husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
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A few weeks ago, my left power window spit up a screw and now the window is stuck. The motor grinds away and the window won't budget. Would a regular auto mechanic be able to fix this or do I need to go to a body person?
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The brakes on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra make a grinding sound (almost like finger nails on wood) when I have tried to stop in icy conditions. It's also hard to get the car to stop and I end up pumping the brake. A Hyundai dealer replaced the front brakes over a year ago and Adirondack tire replaced back brake pads in the summer. Is the noise part of the anti-lock feature or does it sound like a problem?
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I have a 2007 Manual drive Hyundai Elantra with 98,000 miles on it. Prior to going to Valvoline (who I know are not the best oil change places) if I was parked with foot on clutch and brake there was a tinny noise coming from the engine. I was going to have it checked out.
Fast forward I had my oil changed at Valvoline on Saturday (2 days ago) since then when parked with foot on clutch and brake the car begins to make a stuttering/shuttering noise and is shaking a bit (in time). In addition when I shift gears and go faster there is a wheezing noise.
I assume I need to bring this back to Valvoline? Is there anything that they could have done during the oil change that would cause this issue?I didn't get the air filter but it wasn't that horrible. They of course said I should get the radiator flush and the transmission flush.
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I test drove a Skoda Yeti 1.8TSI 4x4 DSG and noticed when driving at full acceleration while shifting through 1 to 2 it goes into the red, past the redline.
Then I decided to test it in my Tiguan 2.0TSI 4Motion 6-speed auto and it went past the redline into the red before it changed.
Now because it happened in 2 vw-group cars with 2 different transmissions it makes me think it is normal.
Tiguan_2.0TSI
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So I needed to have my clutch and slave cylinder replace on my 2000 Hyundai Tiboron about a month ago, and now I've noticed that in warmer weather the car totally loses acceleration. I took it back to the mechanic who had done the clutch work, but of course he couldn't reproduce the problem. Yesterday afternoon when it was 80+ degrees I saw the problem again, where I could push down on the accelerator and the RPMs would jump from 2.8k to about 3.8k and very little power would be transferred and very little acceleration. I then checked the car this morning while it was cool outside, and even after driving 30 miles to work over a mountain, the car had proper acceleration. So what might be causing the lose of power?
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My automatic 2007 Nissan Altima has developed an intermittent problem when I go to shift it into park it won't shift down past neutral. I can't physically move the gear shift past neutral and can't take my key out of the car. If I wait awhile or drive off somewhere else it will later allow me to shift normally again and won't happen for awhile. It has happened maybe 8-9 times but I worry it will get worse or break the transmission. I've taken it to a mechanic and they looked at the transmission and didn't see a problem but sense they couldn't recreate the issue they couldn't fix it.
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I have a 04 santa fe 2.4L 4cyl. I recently did an engine swap, old motor threw a connecting rod. I put my intake, exhaust manifold and head on it. Timed it. All new gaskets. Turn the key and it fires right up and runs great. But when you accelerate it sounds loud (almost diesel like) and doesn't shift at the right time, also while trying to cruise it will drop about 300 rpms and then come back up, then back down and up every 3 to 5 seconds. The transmission was fine when the old motor came out. The head/intake were fine also. All the vacuum lines are connected, cant hear a vacuum leak anywhere. But it keeps throwing a throttle body sensor code and it wasn't broken when the old motor went, i even swapped another used one on it and it still throws that code. I am thinking it has to be intake related.
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2003 Hyundai Sonata, 70K.....engine makes a continuous pop...pop...pop noise during acceleration. So far have installed new crankshaft sensor, coil pack, plugs and wires.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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So about 6 months ago I got new brakes on my car (2009 Hyundai Elantra). It was done by a independent repair shop. A few weeks later the brakes started making really weird noises, so I took it back to the shop and they took a look at them and they said everything seemed to be fine. So the next couple weeks there was no noise, but after a month or so the same thing happened again, I took them back to the shop they said everything looked fine and the noise stopped once again, but after a couple months later this happened again! and its been frustrating.
So when I took it to the dealership for oil change, I asked the guy to check the brakes for me and he said everything looked good, but if I had them changed in an independent repair shop they probably put generic ones which don't have some kind of lubricant that keeps them from making noises, that this happens sometimes, and if I wanted to fix it, new brakes had to be installed and they need to be the dealership brand which is for Hyundai cars. How true is this? I'm very naive when it comes to cars so I don't know whats going on.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra. For a few weeks my car would not start if it had been driven a lot in one day but than it would start the next morning. Now over the weekend even after sitting it will not start at all. I have changed the positive terminal and the relay switch. There is a little under a quarter tank of gas and I have never let it get so low but did for further testing. What it might be? I just replaced the starter a few months ago and it has gave no recent indication of it going bad. There is a valve gasket leak that I need to get replaced but I don't think that would cause it not start...but than again who knows
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My car has been having issues lately, I'll have the heat or air on (doesn't matter which), and I'll hear a click (like a pen click) and it will go off, then it will click again and go back on. Last year it only did this a couple of times and I solved the problem by hitting the dashboard, obviously. But now it's doing it every time I drive, and since it's winter I kind of need the heat to stay on. What is the problem?
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