Hyundai - Elantra :: 2006 Revving Up - RPMs Go Flying Every Time When Fired Up
Feb 21, 2011
2006 Hyundai Elantra. RPM's go flying everytime it's fired up. RPM's will drop once it's put into gear, reverse or drive and runs just fine afterwards. If it's not affecting how it drives should we just let it be? Is there anything to be concerned about?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
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2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
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So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. I recently have been having issues with the transmission. When I'm in fourth gear, I will sometimes feel a sudden jolt, and then the rpms will go up, and the engine will seem to be working harder and be noisier. When I then come to a stop and then try to accelerate again, the acceleration is very slow, as if the car is still in a high gear. When I turn the car off and then on, the car accelerates fine again. Since then, I have put the car into overdrive off, and haven't had any problems. If the problem is in the fourth gear, could I just use overdrive off consistently and not fix the problem? Could that somehow cause more damage or be bad for the engine? I put about 50 highway miles on the car each day. But I only plan on doing so for the next ten months or so, then I will generally only be using it for short trips around the neighborhood.
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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Starting about a week ago whenever my car goes above about 2 thousand rpms I start hearing a faint high pitched whining sound, increasing to a more audible level as the rpms increase.. I've ruled out breaks and tires, which weer my initial thoughts, and I think it's something with a belt or the engine now. I have manual shift 2002 Hyundai Elantra.. The car still performs fine, but I have noticed a slight decrease in acceleration speed..
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The starter cranks, fired a couple of time but will not start. Mechanic blames the key interlock ... Apparently the key contains a microchip that blocks starting... Does this sound right ?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that in winter does very strange things, almost ghostly. While driving, headlights flicker on and off, the dash abs and esc warning lights go on, and rpm's shoot up and stay there as if it downshifted by itself. I have to pull off the road and turn the car off.
Further, three different times I shut the car off and then nothing would work, including not being able to start the car. After it sits a while it then seems to reprogram itself and works properly.
I contacted Hyundai, and they only said bring it in and pay to diagnose it. But there appears to be no fix, as many have reported electrical problems for this model on the internet.
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I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
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I have a 4 cylinder manual transmission that the cruise control won't set. The light will come on it just won't set. I don't see any vacuum hoses and can't find any blown fuses. All the lights brakes, parking, and flashers seem to be working fine.
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Hyundai 2007 Elentra Manual 5 speed..
Car won't start, Replaced Battery.
Have checked starter motor, its fine and cranking over
Have checked spark plugs and they are sparking.
Fuel pump wasn't working and after spending ages getting the back seats off and causing movement there, the car started. So fuel pump was replaced. Car went back to not starting after fuel pump replaced. Could this still be an associated issue with the 2008 recalls (Some components in the original fuel pump may be compromised by ethanol blended fuel.) Have checked relays and they seem to be working and fine. Have connected up and tried to find any fault readings come up and nothing is there.
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My 2006 Hyundai Elantra has developed an intermittent starting short that seems to only occur in damp conditions. The intermittent starting short/fault seems to only occur in the mornings when the car has sat overnight outside. When I put the key in the ignition all the regular lights and bells will ding as normal, but when the key is then turned from "on" to "start" the entire electrical system cuts off. No interior lights, gauges, dash lights, nothing. However, if I pop the hood and then drop it, electrical power will be restored. I have been doing this for the past two weeks while I tried to determine the conditions of the fault. This morning however, this "fix" wouldn't restore electrical power but the short occurred again in a cycle and the car never did start, despite trying the hood pop/drop method 10 times.
I had it towed to a shop this morning. When the car and I arrived, it started normally without issue. (of course!) I'm wondering if riding on the back of a tow truck dried out something or if that was immaterial. The person who looked at my car noticed a loose negative battery pole attachment and replaced the negative battery clamp. (His advice was to start small before needlessly pulling things off trying to find the fault.)
So, what could cause this or what course of action to pursue? The car has 94,000 miles and this is the first real issue it has had.
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My 2006 Hyundai Elantra will not start. I went out yesterday to start it to leave for an appointment and I heard the battery try to engage and then only click, click, click. Is it the battery? I've thus far had no issues or problems with this car. I'm going to try and get it jump-started this morning to bring it to the mechanic. Could it be the starter?
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The cruise control cuts out after driving for 25+ minutes. The rpm's rev up to 4000 and the speedometer goes wild just before cutting off. It can be reset but does not hold for long. Short trips and a cooling-off period for the engine seem to work. The dealer could not replicate the condition.
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I have a 2009 hyundai elantra an think that i need to reset the computer.
The car is not starting and all lights are flashing dimly. I get no clock or meter numbers but the light are dim blue and flashing. The horn is also going off but almost silent.
I unhooked the battery and reconnected but with no luck. This is the most I know. I have the car manual with me and a laptop.
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So my 07 gs350 120k miles decided she didn't want to start this morning. She fired up for a half a second, then died.
Pushing the start button everything else works but she won't crank. Dash says Check VSC and cooling fan runs right away (cold engine) and keeps running (very strange). Charged battery (OFTEN THIS MEANS THE BATTERY IS WEAK< SO JUMP START BTW) , disconnect/reconnect battery 5 minutes. Did not work. Battery charged and good. Jiggled auto shifter in and out of park to make sure it was in park. Didnt work.
Ended up being the Fuel Pressure Sensor under the throttle body above bellhousing , back of motor. You can check either cam timing sensor (3 wire, single bolt on top near front of valve cover, blue wire for 5V reference. If no 5V then the pressure sensor is shorted, replace.
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My girl friends car is doing something interesting, well it started off the car died while she was driving home from work, so I towed it with my truck home, the alternator had went bad so i changed that, but no here is where the problem comes in that i cant figure out, the car will start and run for about 3 miles than it will die in and out, loose power but not kill the engine and the check engine light flashes, and now the radio does not work at all (at idle or running) and the head lights are dim.i tested the battery, it was with in ranges for cold starting, output while the car is on and a few other thing, i re checked my belts and they are all tight and in the correct alignment ...
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I having the ABS and handbrake light on at dashboard all the time and I had sent my car to scan error code and error code as follow:
1) C1200
2) C2308
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1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
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On my way to the grocery store my car's RPMs started to pulse up and down (between 1 and 2) when driving. While stopped at the red light it would vibrate very hard. When i put it in park the RPMs would rise fast before i shut it off. It did the same things on the way back home plus the check engine light came on. A few hours later i put a little oil in it and drove it around my neighborhood and it didn't do any of the things it did that morning.
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