I have a pretty bad oil leak from front valve cover but whats odd is that it suddenly stopped showing low on my dip stick. Now it ALWAYS says a quart overfull no matter how much oil is leaking out. Also after driving for awhile it gets a terrible knock. There is no smoke however and engine runs like normal.
The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra.
I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2010 elantra with 60000k that I always had the required maintenence done on it. 3 weeks ago I took it in for an oil change. I just biticed a few oil spots in ground on passenger side and checked my oil level. When I pulled out the dipstick the re was dirt on it or something. its never been like that before. What could cause that? Seems like it happened after the last oil change. Also could the leak be from the oil filter? Heres a pic of the rag after I wiped the stick.
View 15 RepliesThe car was low and I added enough oil to bring back to full. 1800 miles later, engine dipstick reading at end tip of dipstick. Added a quart, was full. Drove around 80 miles. It was low again. It has a huge film of oil spray all over the back end and it seems to be leaking a lot of oil. It's in a kind of square patterning the driveway. Not just one drip. This is my first Prius.
2005 Prius Package 3 132k
I installed an OBD II BT dongle to my 13RX350 computer port (near steering column)all works well, but it seems tire pressure does not register on any of the Android apps I downloaded. How to access the tire pressures?
For those unaware, it's a dongle you plug into the computer port of car, and your phone or tablet, can display nearly all pertinent data on a dashboard that you design for your liking.
My girfriend's 2000 Elantra with 175,000 m leaks oil from it's rear main seal, which was replaced once before. Her mechanic has told her that it's not worth replacing again, because the groove it fits in has widened and can never be sealed completely. Does this make sense?
View 5 RepliesThe car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
View 12 RepliesAbout two months ago I bought a used 2005 Elantra from a reputable dealership. I had my mechanic friend check it out before I bought it and everything seemed fine. This week the check engine light came on. I took it to a shop, they diagnosed the issue and said I needed a new catalytic converter .....
View 9 RepliesMy 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 85,000 miles and we are having trouble with the gear shift. It will not shift into 1st from neutral but will shift into 1st from 2nd. We recently replaced the clutch (about 3 months ago). We are about to go on a road trip and are wondering whether we should get it checked out before hand.
View 9 RepliesI've taken my 2005 Hyundai Elantra (95K miles) to the dealer twice to be serviced because it is jerking while driving - mostly in low speeds, but sometimes even in fifth gear - and occasionally stalls while stopped. the jerking happens while driving, not when the clutch is engaged. The first time I took it to the dealer they said it was a loose battery cable. After about a week the problem started again.
I took the car again to the dealer and they did something like rearrange the ignition coils. It drove better on the test drive and for the past several weeks I have had no problems, but just today the same problem started again. It seems to happen more when the AC is on, but has happened when the AC is off. The dealer also told me the clutch is very worn and that we should have it replaced - I'm hesitant to spend the money replacing the clutch if it's not causing the jerking, i.e., if there is something else wrong with the car. Would a worn clutch cause these symptoms?
I'm driving Hyundai Elantra 2005 (manual transmission). When the car slows down (no gas pedal, no brake), it makes metallic noise on the right side. It mostly happens when RPM is between 1,500-2,000. When I press the clutch pedal, the noise disappears immediately. I brought the car to a local mechanic once, but he could not figure it out.
View 2 RepliesMy rear brakes developed a squeal when the brake pedal was released. My dealer replaced the rear brakes & disks at about 57000 miles. I had taken a salesman from the dealer to get an appraisal & he told me that it sounded like a simple adjustment would fix it. 2005 Elantra
View 1 RepliesSo I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
I own a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with the standard 4 banger. About 6 months ago I noticed coolant residue on the mid steam hose. I removed the radiator cap and I didn't have any coolant at the top. So I topped it up and found that the High side had pressure and the low side not so much. So I brought it in and the the Thermostat and hoses replaced. That should have solved it. 3 months later I opened the hood and noticed coolant on the Clutch actuator and the divots in the trany casing. So I took it in again.
The mech said it was a slit in the lower rose. making an air pocket. Ok so they drained the coolant and replaced the hose. Two weeks later same story. The high end gets hot the low end is leaking (dibbling) out the engine end of the low side hose. I brought it to another mech and they checked the flow (good) pressure tested the system and head gasket(good). In short, they found nothing wrong. Thermostat opens fine everything is good. Except...... I am still finding coolant dibble on the trany case. Its not a major leak - about half a pint per week- but its annoying as hell.
I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra that makes a RRrrrRRRrRRR noise when turning corners - only to the right. It's not a screeching or scraping noise... more of a loud whirring or humming. One note- back left tire was removed and repaired shortly before this began - could that relate?
View 4 RepliesMy daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
I recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
View 1 RepliesI spoke to a mechanic and he is confident that there is no damage since it is not making any noise after oil is added. He is saying that the lifters would have made the noise and now that oil is added, everything is okay.
It is a 2006 Hyundai Accent.
I purchased a used 2005 Elantra two weeks ago. In the last two days, it began spraying oil at high RPMs. The oil pools on top of the transaxle (driver-side engine compartment), and down the front of the engine onto the exhaust manifold, giving burning smell and smoke. Trying to find where it was coming from, I cleaned everything thoroughly, but I can't locate the leak/spray. If I drive under 3500 RPM, no oil sprays or accumulates. Over that, it does. Oil filter was tight (first thing I checked), can't find any obviously loose fittings or bolts. Where this may be coming from, or should I just bite the bullet and go to the dealer for diagnosis?
View 12 RepliesI have a minor leak at the base of the trans dipstick tube. I assume that the tube is press in ? has an o-ring ? I put some silicone around the area and that worked about a week, the fluid is probably eating through that type sealant. The trans is a 4r70. Seems to me that the actual tube should be ok and having never dealt with replacing one I want a little advice before yanking it out.
View 11 Replies