My 2004 Hyundai Elantra GLS has an alarm that won't go off until the car is started and running or the negative battery cable is disconnected. The technician at the Hyundai dealership is baffled on this one. If I press the panic alarm button on the key chain, the alarm gets very loud. When the panic alarm is turned off, the alarm is quieter. The keyless entry won't work at all now.
View 1 RepliesI got my oil changed and tires balanced Saturday at the local shop around the corner. Now my alarm goes off randomly and when I use the clicker thing to lock the car, the horn doesn't make the beep sound it used to on the the second click. It never did this prior to having the oil changed, but how could that have anything to do with the alarm? I need to figure out how to make it stop, it's waking me (and my neighbors) up at night, and I have to keep leaving where ever I am to go out and see if the dang thing is going off again, which it is about half the time.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra with about 96,0000 miles on it. A couple of days the car wouldn't start and I assumed the battery was dead. Also, every time I would turn the key, the alarm would do these short successive beeps. After AAA came to see about replacing the battery, he saw that the alarm would beep when the key was put in and told me the anti-theft system was preventing the car from starting, and that a new battery wouldn't fix it. At the time, the battery in the key fob was also dead but I got that fixed and the key fob is working.
View 2 RepliesMy 1997 Hyundai Elantra's Auto transmission started slipping. I changed filter and fluid and found that 2 bolts had fallen from filter and the remaining 2 bolts were loose. It will not go in reverse and only drives without slipping much when Over Drive is turned OFF. Do you think Transmission is shot?
View 9 RepliesMy Elantra has been doing this for a while: While running (idle, driving slow, driving fast, doesn't matter) the car will lose power and will not respond to the throttle. It does this a few times in a row usually and then starts running normally. When running normally it runs perfectly fine, nice smooth low idle and good acceleration.
I started by doing a basic tune up: plugs, wires, oil change, air filter. No change. I then swapped the throttle position sensor. No change. You can see the symptom on youtube here: [URL] ....
What could be causing this?
2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
My alarm started going off by itself and my truck would not start so we unhooked the horn but the alarm was still trying to go off making a ticking noise when the horn should have been honking. so we also unhooked the alarm. And it started right up. I've been driving it with those things off with no problem. But today it wouldn't start again and its making a ticking noise like the horn is trying to honk.
View 6 RepliesSo I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra and the previous owner called it "quirky". She said to turn the AC or heat off you have to have the setting on 4 not 0 and a few other things. She forgot to mention sometimes it just won't start. Last night when I went to drive to get some take out the car just would not start. The radio and lights turn on but the engine wouldn't start. There was no noise of the engine even trying to start. I made sure the car was in park and now I'm just confused. I called the previous owner (my boyfriend's sister) and she said when that happen she would make sure the lights, radio, and AC were turned off and jam the car into park. I tried all of this and it didn't work so I called her again and she said sometimes you just "need to wait it out"....this morning I tried the car again and it turned on with no problem but I am paranoid it will happen again on the road trip I have planned for this weekend.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Elantra and recently every time I pump gas, the car doesn't want to start without pumping/hold down the gas pedal. Why is it doing this?
View 5 RepliesJust had all the engine mounts replaced in our 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 115,000 miles. Something new has emerged: When stopped with the engine running, there is a loud vibration in Drive, Reverse and Park, but not in Neutral. What do you think is up with this?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Elantra with 130000+ miles. Lately I have noticed bumpy ride along the concrete highway. It bumps like a Yo-Yo. What Could be the issue and how expensive?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
I drive a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 72,000 miles on it. For the last few weeks, I've been hearing loud thud sounds on the passenger side when the car is cold or fairly cold. It almost sounds like someone is throwing tennis balls at the passenger side door while I'm driving. It happens when I'm stopped or when I'm driving - either way. Today, the Check Engine light went on; I don't know if it's related.
View 2 RepliesMy check engine light has recently turned on in my 2004 hyundai elantra, and since it has come on my car will kick and sound like its going to stall, works but the automatic transmission refuses to shift. This inconsistent because it sometimes works fine with the light on and sometimes the light won't even turn on and everything is ok. What's wrong?
View 3 Replies,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
View 5 RepliesSo my battery is dead dead.... Looking to charge it, but of course, the alarm goes off. How do I turn it off?
View 2 RepliesAm I correct in thinking that Toyota recommend changing the spark plugs at 100,000 miles on the gen II?
The reason I ask is because on a couple of occasions the ICE ran rough for a couple of seconds when it first started up like it didn't have a spark or something on one of the plugs. Also I've noticed an slight drop in mpg, not just due to the time of year either. In winter I normally average 48-50mpg (UK) but I'm struggling to get mid 40's ATM. My pri has covered 75,000 miles so was thinking of changing them now to see if it improves?
I have a 2004 Subaru Outback. This fall I started having intermittent problems starting the car. It would run like a champ, no problems. Then every once in a while when I would try to start it, typically happens after it has sat all night, it would turn over just fine, motor would catch, then the motor would quit running (almost immediately upon start). It is kind of like the old days when your carburetor was not adjusted quite right and you would have to keep one foot on the brake the other on the gas while stopped at a stop light to keep the motor running.
The first time it happened we added "heat" as we thought it might be water in the gas line somewhere. It started, then ran just fine. This winter the problem started recurring more frequently. We added injector cleaner, it seemed to work a bit, but did not solve problem. We took it to the shop, and they could not figure out what was going on as nothing is registering on the computer and the car would start just fine for them. Brought the car home it worked OK for a week or so, then started up again.
The motor would catch then would quit running almost immediately. We were able to get it running good enough to get it to the shop (kept one foot on gas at stop lights, etc so would not kill). My car has been at the shop for two weeks now. It finally misbehaved on their watch, and they replaced a sensor, but they are not sure it fixed anything. They are keeping it so see if they can get a better diagnosis.
My first thought was the gas pump, but they said they had never seen a subaru gas pump fail and usually when a pump goes out, it goes out. They thought it could be electrical, but not sure as the problem is so intermittent. I would like to get my car fixed and back home. It's a great car; when it is running it runs great. The shop we work with is very good, and they are reluctant to start just replacing parts if it is not going to fix the problem.
I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
View 1 RepliesI have diagnostic trouble codes P0K92 and P0K7K set on my 2008 Gen. II Prius. I have searched the forums and cannot locate these two codes.
I started and drove my car for several miles today, then it started to run rough. I pulled over, then called a tow truck to tow my car back home. I have a high-level scanner/code reader that read P0K92 and P0K7K codes.
I have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
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