Hyundai - Elantra :: 2003 - Second Clutch Slipping At 94k?
Mar 24, 2012
My 2003 Hyundai Elantra has 94000 miles and is already on it's second clutch. It is starting to feel like this one is almost toast after only about 25000 miles. It feels like it is slipping starting from a stop (the tachometer goes up, I release the clutch and there is a pause before the car moves) and if I am in 2nd or 3rd gear and I accelerate the tachometer will often jump and the car will lurch. I have had a clutch go out before and it felt very similar to this, I just can't believe that this clutch would only last 25000 miles. I know that you can't adjust the clutch as it is self-tensioning, but I also know the mechanic who put in the second clutch had some problems and it had to be re-serviced after the initial replacement. Is there any way this guy did something wrong that could be fixed? Could the clutch really be worn out after 25000 miles? I'm the only driver and I don't feel like I drive the car too aggressively... If the consensus is that the clutch needs replacement, maybe you could throw out some figures so I know what I am getting into?
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My 1997 Hyundai Elantra's Auto transmission started slipping. I changed filter and fluid and found that 2 bolts had fallen from filter and the remaining 2 bolts were loose. It will not go in reverse and only drives without slipping much when Over Drive is turned OFF. Do you think Transmission is shot?
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I might trade this '13 Elantra GT for a '14 or '15. Too many problems. I knew I shouldn't have bought a first year model.
When the engine is cold, the clutch slips. When it warms up, the clutch is strong like how it should be. Having a slipping clutch when engine is cold? My car only has 7,000 miles and I drive conservatively.
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The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
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I am searching for any kind of adjustment that might enable me to force the clutch level to the positive stop. It stands off about an 1/8" to 3/16" and I think is the reason I am not getting engagement in first gear, it slips heavily but fine in all other gears. The key way on the the lever prevents me from moving it a notch or two if I thought I could and don't know if that's even the answer . I can't figure out what is preventing it from returning fully on its own I can push it by and and a little fluid will squirt from the reservoir. Ive replaced the slave cylinder and bled it.
Is there any adjustment under the dash? This is a 2001 elantra that I just put a 2000 trans 5 speed.
My original plan was to pull the parts from the 2000 and replace in the 2001. I had lost 1st and 5th totally and found a 2000 that went right in with some minor mtr mnt mods. It shifts just fine except for this 1st gear thing. I saw a video and am having second thought about that move. I dont really want to pull the trans out again.
1st gear just keep slipping. new clutch kit installed when I swapped them out. It feels like a linkage thing somewhat but I cant find adjust ment to tryout.
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When I'm driving and the clutch is slipping a bit ( i.e. starting from a stop) I feel very noticeable vibration. Is that a sign the clutch is starting to do? I feel like a year ago it was smoother action, and I barely had to give it gas to get started ( could start with clutch action mostly).
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Earlier this summer I bought a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 130k miles on it. Recently I have noticed a squeaking/squealing sound coming from underneath the hood. I first noticed it at traffic lights, but I have determined that it occurs whenever the clutch pedal is depressed, and continues until the clutch is released.
My first question is - is this serious? (Is it dangerous, or will it compound significantly if I do nothing?) The clutch still seems to work fine, and I can stop the noise at traffic lights etc... by putting the car into neutral and letting off the clutch.
My second question is, how did I cause this? Coasting with the clutch fully depressed, or too much downshifting?
Background: Recently, I bought a Scan Gauge to provide real-time fuel economy feedback, and began to experiment with different driving styles. I found that I could really boost my fuel economy by coasting down longer hills on the highway (when there were no other cars around). To do this I was pressing the clutch all the way to the floor, figuring it was the same as putting the car into neutral. When my speed began to decline after the hill I'd ease back into 5th. One hill in particular comes into town where there is a light. If the light turned red I would stop coasting and do some quick downshifting as well as breaking. I was pretty aggressive with the downshifting on a few occasions.
Did either the downshifting or the coasting likely contribute to my problem? If coasting was an issue, would coasting in neutral cause a similar problem?
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We purcheased a used 2003 Hyundai Elantra in Aug. 2010. Since then the driver's side low beam has burnt out 3 times. From our online research this appears often in the Elantra, but with no real fix. There does not appear to be any moisture problem and I am leaning towards a short, ground, or voltage problem. But seems odd that it is always the same headlight.
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2003 hyundai elantra.... One year ago my CEL was on and I had my catalytic converter changed. car passed emissions and my CEL came back on about a month later, my mechanic said nothing to worry about. i now have to bring my car for emissions again and when i brought the car to the mechanic he said my map sensor needed to be changed. 200.00 dollars later the CEL came back on after about 120 miles. mechanic cleared the light, i brought it to emissions but it was too soon to be tested, but they said "your car is fine, no codes are coming up, you just need to drive it more". CEL came on at only 50 miles this time and now took it to pep boys to get another opinion on the codes. po456 and po420 came up.
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My car is a 2003 Hyundai Elantra. When I turn on my air conditioner it does not turn on and the vents release a bad odor (not like the mildew smell that could come from there, I don't know how to describe it but it was making me sick). When I turn on my air conditioner I can hear a fan turn on but no air comes from the vents; but air does come out of the defrost vents only. The smell is not as strong as it was when this first started happening, but it is still there.
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Everything was working perfectly. I stopped at McDonalds to get a bite to eat. When I left McDonalds, the car would not shift out of first gear. I have checked the transmission fluid and it appears to be good. I shifted from Park to low, and low back to park several times making sure there was no problem there. I noticed it also kicks hard when going into reverse, and it kicks hard when going into drive. When it is driven it will not shift out of first gear.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra with about 96,0000 miles on it. A couple of days the car wouldn't start and I assumed the battery was dead. Also, every time I would turn the key, the alarm would do these short successive beeps. After AAA came to see about replacing the battery, he saw that the alarm would beep when the key was put in and told me the anti-theft system was preventing the car from starting, and that a new battery wouldn't fix it. At the time, the battery in the key fob was also dead but I got that fixed and the key fob is working.
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I just had a new clutch installed yesterday. Bully stg3 with flywheel. My 2012 R has 22k. I had to change it since my stock clutch was slipping at 3000rpm with the Unitronic stg1+.
The second I start the car and stay on neutral, give a little gas I hear a super loud grinding noise. It stop when I press the clutch. On idle I don`t hear nothing and when I drive everything is fine until I release the clutch and when I don`t press the gas.
The shop said they never heard anything that loud and they confirm that everything was installed correctly. Other then the noise the clutch is fine and works very well.
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So i have a 05 1.8t gti... just bought it about 3 months ago and it has a stage 2 south bend clutch... the car has only 68k on it and the clutch is slipping already... it was driving fine then about a week ago all hell broke loose and it's slipping bad... now for my question what performance clutch is recommended? I have a giac tune and its pushing about 21 boost... . would a 2.0 performance clutch work on the 1.8t?..
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Well the clutch started slipping finally, not sure if it was the weather change on the drive from here to PA but I slip 5 and 6th wot 4-5k rpms. Have some coin set away because I knew it was going to happen sooner or later did some searching and I'm curious to here the verdict on the RSR clutch how many miles and how its holding up as well as whatever else you are running. Will probably keep the car 2+ for quite a while so not really worried about 3+ power.
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My wife was driving my Stage 1 R last night (by herself) and she ran into an issue where when she tried to leave from a red light, the clutch was slipping through the first three gears and she could barely get up any speed. She pulled over, let the car sit for a few minutes and then started going again with no issues.
She drove home about 5 miles and told me about what happened. The car smelled like burning clutch, but when I took it out for a quick test drive, everything seemed fine.
I am at around 5000 miles and have never had any issues before and I don't ever do high-rpm launches. So, could this have been a fluke or a sign of the clutch/pressure plate issues people have been having?
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Well I was hoping it was just a fluke the one time it slipped about a month ago, but my clutch is now officially toast. If I'm between 3-4k RPM and punch it in just about any gear I'm getting slip. Trying to pass a car on the highway, and I'm getting slip. I do not launch my car, I simply like to play in the 3-4k rpm powerband as I love the torque. Apparently spirited driving while remaining in the peak torque range of the engine will kill the stock clutch. God only knows how long the OEM clutches will last with people that drive their R like a racekar... 3200 Miles, Stage 1+ ....
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I have an issue that I thought was a slipping clutch, but my dealer says it isn't. If I'm cruising at highway speed (stg1 gti)say around 65 and I get on to pass the revs will surge, but there will be no apparent acceleration to go with it. The dealer said it isn't the clutch because there is a standard test they do where it would be jerky in 2nd. Could this be a DV or something?
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I went stg.1 at 1000 miles & stg.2 around 6000
miles, then K04 I'm at a little over 6400 miles & my clutch slips in 4th & 5th gear. I never got the chance to install my APR inner cooler. I really hope the Southbend stg.2 endurance setup works well so I can move on to the suspension. This hobby can get expensive but the car is a blast to drive! It never fails to put a smile on my face & has definitely taken the smile off other drivers faces when they realize they can't get by me.
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So I have a stage 2 endurance clutch and light weight flywheel on my car. I had not really gotten on it of late until yesterday. I was getting on the highway and really got on it. When I hit third gear it felt like my clutch was slipping. I have only had it on the car for like six months and about 10,000 miles. It could be worn out all ready? And after the incident yesterday I pushed the clutch in and held it to let it cool down a bit after it did it held fine even in higher Rpms didn't feel like any kind of slipping. Pulled very strong. This morning after having all night to cool off (and I mite just still be freaked out a bit) but it seemed to feel different, like a possible slip at 3,000 Rpms but again I mite just be freaking out about nothing. What does a master cylinder or slave cylinder going out feel like?
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So my clutch started to slip in 4th when I first got my apr stage 1 tune at 24k miles. now 600 miles later it's slipping in 3rd. put it back to stock mode and it doesn't slip in any gear.
My question, if I replace my clutch with an OEM sachs what are the chances of it slipping again? From what I understand the golf R uses the same clutch disk and pressure plate as the gti so why is mine slipping so early? luck of the draw?
I prefer oem because it is a lot quieter and I do not plan to mod any further than stage 1. I'm still running the stock airbox.
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