Hyundai - Elantra :: 2003 - Headlights Burning Out?
Mar 17, 2011
We purcheased a used 2003 Hyundai Elantra in Aug. 2010. Since then the driver's side low beam has burnt out 3 times. From our online research this appears often in the Elantra, but with no real fix. There does not appear to be any moisture problem and I am leaning towards a short, ground, or voltage problem. But seems odd that it is always the same headlight.
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The headlights have been giving us fits because we can't shut them off when we turn off the car. We have to start the car, sometimes drive it around and shut off lights before shutting off the car. And this process has to often be repeated several times before it works. Yesterday the lights came on by themselves when my husband turned off the car in the garage and he couldn't get them off so he disconnected the battery.
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I just bought a 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT and it is my first new car. I drived it at night for the first time and noticed that the headlights were only illuminating the bottom half of my field of vision. In fact, as I drove up to the garage, there was a distinct line of top half dark, bottom half(or maybe a third) light.Is this part of a newer design of a car? A flaw? Just new car jitters and is something to get used to? It made me very uncomfortable because I wasn't able to see as much as I am used to.
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So my car has been dying. I was told they tested alternator, but they said it was charging and replaced my battery. So 1 week later it has had a few lights pop on but it didn't die... and so today it is just like it was before replacing the battery. Headlights and dashboard dim and a bunch of dashboard lights come on. Such as battery, abs, break, tcs, airbag and maybe something else.. after getting a jump it happened again and I noticed everything was stopping on the dashboard.. while driving even the speed jumped up and down and landed on 0... any tips?
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My 2003 Hyundai Elantra has 94000 miles and is already on it's second clutch. It is starting to feel like this one is almost toast after only about 25000 miles. It feels like it is slipping starting from a stop (the tachometer goes up, I release the clutch and there is a pause before the car moves) and if I am in 2nd or 3rd gear and I accelerate the tachometer will often jump and the car will lurch. I have had a clutch go out before and it felt very similar to this, I just can't believe that this clutch would only last 25000 miles. I know that you can't adjust the clutch as it is self-tensioning, but I also know the mechanic who put in the second clutch had some problems and it had to be re-serviced after the initial replacement. Is there any way this guy did something wrong that could be fixed? Could the clutch really be worn out after 25000 miles? I'm the only driver and I don't feel like I drive the car too aggressively... If the consensus is that the clutch needs replacement, maybe you could throw out some figures so I know what I am getting into?
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2003 hyundai elantra.... One year ago my CEL was on and I had my catalytic converter changed. car passed emissions and my CEL came back on about a month later, my mechanic said nothing to worry about. i now have to bring my car for emissions again and when i brought the car to the mechanic he said my map sensor needed to be changed. 200.00 dollars later the CEL came back on after about 120 miles. mechanic cleared the light, i brought it to emissions but it was too soon to be tested, but they said "your car is fine, no codes are coming up, you just need to drive it more". CEL came on at only 50 miles this time and now took it to pep boys to get another opinion on the codes. po456 and po420 came up.
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My car is a 2003 Hyundai Elantra. When I turn on my air conditioner it does not turn on and the vents release a bad odor (not like the mildew smell that could come from there, I don't know how to describe it but it was making me sick). When I turn on my air conditioner I can hear a fan turn on but no air comes from the vents; but air does come out of the defrost vents only. The smell is not as strong as it was when this first started happening, but it is still there.
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Everything was working perfectly. I stopped at McDonalds to get a bite to eat. When I left McDonalds, the car would not shift out of first gear. I have checked the transmission fluid and it appears to be good. I shifted from Park to low, and low back to park several times making sure there was no problem there. I noticed it also kicks hard when going into reverse, and it kicks hard when going into drive. When it is driven it will not shift out of first gear.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra with about 96,0000 miles on it. A couple of days the car wouldn't start and I assumed the battery was dead. Also, every time I would turn the key, the alarm would do these short successive beeps. After AAA came to see about replacing the battery, he saw that the alarm would beep when the key was put in and told me the anti-theft system was preventing the car from starting, and that a new battery wouldn't fix it. At the time, the battery in the key fob was also dead but I got that fixed and the key fob is working.
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Car: 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe
Problem: We have a sweet burning smell like antifreeze or oil coming from the vents when the heat is on.
We have taken it to 3 mechanics and they can't figure out what it is. We expect the heater core is going bad, but the symptoms do not fully match what we are experiencing. We do not have any leaking antifreeze, nor do we have any windows fogging. They also ran a pressure test which came back normal.
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I am replacing my low beams every couple months ever since I replaced my oem bulbs with Silverstars. Sometimes the bulbs last for a few months and this last time they lasted only 30 days or so.
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I have a 2007 Prius with regular (non HID) headlights. I have probably replaced them 10 times since I bought the car new. Has it been determine what the fix is so they don't keep burning out?
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My headlights keep burning out. As in frequently burning out...nearly every other month or so I have to replace one headlight or the other. Could this be indicative of a larger problem with my car?
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I have a new 2013 Hyundai Accent (automatic, 4 cylinder) with less than 1500 miles on it. The day I drove it off the lot and up until today, it randomly smells like burning rubber. It happens whether it is hot or cold, driven two miles or thirty miles. The smell is coming from under the hood but I know very little about engines, so I'm not sure what it is. I have told the dealership and they don't seem to care. I may not know much about cars but I know that that smell is not normal, especially in a new car. What could be causing this...
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On my 2011 Three with standard halogen headlights, I have been experiencing headlamp burnouts at least once a year. Other than the usual precautions while swapping them (i.e., wear clean gloves and never touch the bulb with bare hands), I don't think I'm doing anything unusual.
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Have had my 2010 just under 2 years. Have about 61k on it.
A couple of months ago, the passenger side low beam lamp went out. When I tapped it, the tiny bulb on top of it went back on, but not the low beam lamp. High beams were fine.
Took it to the dealer asking them to check for a short. They said there was none, it was just the bulb.
Tonight, same thing except on the driver side. Tapped it and the small bulb went on, but not the regular one.
I am finding it odd that both bulbs would burn out like that. One, maybe, but two so soon...?
I had my '03 for seven years and 112k and never had an issue with the lights. Very few issues overall with that.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata. With the headlights turned off, they come on when I brake. How do I correct this?
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Headlights will not go off no matter what the switch position. Can only get them off by pulling the fuses
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I have an hyundi accent 1997 and the headlights won't turn off.i have had new fuses, relays and on/off the stalk.the only way to turn them off is to take out the fuse which is a pain. Someone has suggested install a switch across the fusible link but didn't have the details for me to follow.
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My first car was a 1986 Hyundai Excel. I spent about as much time fixing it as driving it, but it taught me how to work on cars, which has saved me a lot of money over the years. It had some quirks. When I turned on the headlights, the idle would go up and down. When I looked at the carburetor, I could even see the throttle open and close. It had one of those complicated feedback carburetors that I don't really understand. My question is about the transmission. It was a five-speed, and the clutch never slipped. When I got the car, the speed limit was 55. At that speed the engine would be somewhere over 3,000 RPM (I forget exactly).
Then a couple of years later the speed limit went up to 70, and at that speed the engine ran at 4,000 RPM. The strange thing is that the engine speed was the same in 4th and 5th. I have a book about cars that I got years ago, and it mentions something called a "fifth gear" that isn't an overdrive but "acts like an overdrive." What this means, but it seems to be what my Hyundai had. I found no difference in engine speed or performance. If I had to downshift to 4th to climb a hill, I'd immediately have to downshift to 3rd, because 4th made no difference. What that fifth gear was for? I also wouldn't mind knowing why the throttle opened and closed when the lights were on.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that in winter does very strange things, almost ghostly. While driving, headlights flicker on and off, the dash abs and esc warning lights go on, and rpm's shoot up and stay there as if it downshifted by itself. I have to pull off the road and turn the car off.
Further, three different times I shut the car off and then nothing would work, including not being able to start the car. After it sits a while it then seems to reprogram itself and works properly.
I contacted Hyundai, and they only said bring it in and pay to diagnose it. But there appears to be no fix, as many have reported electrical problems for this model on the internet.
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