Hyundai - Elantra :: 2002 - While Running Car Will Lose Power And Will Not Respond To Throttle
Nov 7, 2011
My Elantra has been doing this for a while: While running (idle, driving slow, driving fast, doesn't matter) the car will lose power and will not respond to the throttle. It does this a few times in a row usually and then starts running normally. When running normally it runs perfectly fine, nice smooth low idle and good acceleration.
I started by doing a basic tune up: plugs, wires, oil change, air filter. No change. I then swapped the throttle position sensor. No change. You can see the symptom on youtube here: [URL] ....
What could be causing this?
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First, while driving, my radio dies, my lights start to dim, and I lose my power steering. The first local shop I took it to installed a new alternator and I drove it home. Died again while I was driving. They then replaced three alternators with same results thinking they were bad. Ended up refunding my $400 and putting my original alternator back in and I had my car towed to the Hyundai dealer.
They had car for four days while testing it after charging the battery. They could find nothing wrong with it(again, no charge). Picked it up and drove it home(with someone following me). Two day latter, dead again. What is draining my battery? Do I have a short or something?
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (5-speed manual) with about 185,000 miles on it, which has developed an issue within the last 2 months. The car acts like it is shut off for a split second - tachometer drops suddenly, check engine light flashes very briefly and you lurch a little bit as you lose power, but then after maybe a second, it is back to normal. This has happened while accelerating, cruising down the highway, and idling at a stop sign. The car hasn't actually killed while idling, but is close.
Had it in to a mechanic, and they checked for error codes but found none, and of course it didn't happen while the mechanic had it. On a recent 2 hour trip, it happened maybe 50 times? But hasn't happened for the last week. I should mention that we had the exhaust manifold/front catalytic converter replaced about 3 months ago, as well as a camshaft sensor (those had error codes before we changed them). We've done the recommended maintenance over the years, but are due for another plug/wire replacement (could this be the issue?).
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I have an 02 2.4 gas SF. After a good while, the car will run rough, lose power and will not take any throttle. As if it is starving for fuel. But it will idle fine and if it does stall, will restart. On a hill, I have to drop into first and keep it at 1000 RPM (yikes!)
If I keep going with very little throttle, it may resolve itself. It is always fine after a complete cool down. I checked for vacuum in the tank by opening the filler while it was misbehaving. I have a new CPS, new coil packs, new filters. I've have enough gas fill ups to eliminate water in the gas.
It has thrown no codes. I went ahead and ordered a MAF sensor and a cam position sensor...just guessing. (it had failed emissions which I resolved by cleaning the MAF.)
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Our 2002 Hyundai Elantra is having issues. It shifts fine, no need to double-clutch. It stays in gear. Doesn't grind or anything crazy like that. It does seem like it isn't getting power to the drivetrain, and is having trouble climbing hills. This all came on very suddenly. Hubby thinks it's the clutch -- I think it may be the bushings. Though now, I'm wondering if it's something else? Since it's not having trouble shifting, should we be looking at the fuel system? Sensors? Engine seals?
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My 93 sl2 has lost power and is running hot. Would a fuel filter do this or I think cat convert or egr valve.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I had a dead battery on my '97 power stroke Ford F250. I realize now that when I was jumping it (successfully) I clipped the (black) ground cable to the alternator itself! Doy. The alternator is definitely dead now as I lose power after a few minutes of running the engine. My question is: did I blow a simple fuse or do I need to replace the whole alternator? How likely is it that I did further damage? I ask because I'm contemplating replacing the alternator myself. But maybe it would be wiser to get a tow to the mechanic.
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My 2004 Hyundai Elantra GLS has an alarm that won't go off until the car is started and running or the negative battery cable is disconnected. The technician at the Hyundai dealership is baffled on this one. If I press the panic alarm button on the key chain, the alarm gets very loud. When the panic alarm is turned off, the alarm is quieter. The keyless entry won't work at all now.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS. I've noticed that anytime it rains or I hit a puddle, my belt squeaks and sometimes it almost sounds like it's grinding and I lose power for 4-5 seconds. From the front passenger wheel well, I can clearly see the belt. I noticed there are holes drilled into the frame, and I was wondering if there is suppose to be a guard there to prevent water from getting on the belt?
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I drive a 1993 Chevrolet 1500 v6, 2wd. I have changed every part I can think of related to the fuel system. When I try to accelerate, the engine hesitates, it gets louder, and my truck will jerk. Sometimes, however, it is responsive. Often times, it will be responsive for a few minutes and start to decelerate.
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Vehicle: 2002 Toyota RAV4 171k Miles, Second Owner
Problem: When traveling at highway speeds around 60 it will be smooth. When pushing down the accelerator rather aggressively it will shift into 3rd Gear and some times lose power and I actually slow down while the RPMs increase.
I added a little bit of Lucas Slip Stop to the Transmission and it seemed to work but I'm still encountering the problem. Could this be my transmission's 3rd gear starting to fail?
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I have a 2002 Elantra that has been in shop 3xs for same thing. The car says it is missfiring on 1 and I have changed wires, coil pack and spark plugs with no success.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
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i have a 2002 santa fe which will not go into 5th and reverse So i have put a new clutch in and new oil ....
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Can not get it to start. Turns over. Replaced wires, coils, ECM, check fuses and fuel pump is on. Power to coils.
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My truck will start and idle but when I engage it into a gear, whether it is drive or reverse, it will start to bog down and not respond to throttle. Sometimes the truck will stall other times it will just bog down then the rpms shoot up and the truck will run normal after. If the truck does die it will fire right up and have no issues and run great. Now whenever I stop and shutoff the truck the next time I start it up it will go through the exact same process. It doesn't matter how long the truck has been shut off. Could be a minute could be a day. Truck has 177k miles, in the last year it has given a code for camshaft sensor going bad and has been replaced twice. Have also had the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors replaced within the last 6 months. Not sure if this matters but was told my truck is California Emissions by the garage that replaced the cat.
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2010 Prius. There may be times when you attempt to accelerate from a stop on snow or ice where the throttle will not respond. The reason for this is that our hybrid vehicles have 100% of the electric engine's torque available at 0-1,500 RPM unlike our gas-only vehicles, where maximum torque is available around 4,000 rpm. If the Traction Control System detects wheel spin it will inhibit the throttle because if the tires were to spin and then suddenly gain traction, the torque would be so great that damage could occur to the transaxle.
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After driving my car for about ~15 miles it bogs, throttle doesn't respond, if anything makes it worse. And then she dies. I've cleaned my MAF sensor and checked for spark, cleaned the connectors.
The only symptoms it seems to have is-when my A/C is on, the idle will jump from ~1000 RPMs to 700RPMs to 900RPMS etc. Its all over the place every few seconds.-bad gas mileage
My culprits right now are maybe -the fuel filter getting clogged up, -or the fuel pump overheating? (even with a full tank) -or my O2 sensors. Do O2's overheat? I feel like it could be that, given the horrible gas mileage I'm getting.
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Driving on friday night, started to hear at idle the car rpms wavering. Drove home fine with no issues other than at idle. Then Sunday, drove the vehicle, and sometimes had issues when accelerating, seemed to misfire and lose power. Then when driving that day it died completely and wouldn't start. It turns, but no firing.
Got it towed to my place, ran the codes, showed 1300, 1305, 1310, and 1315. All to do with ignition coils. Did a quick spark check, and no spark at any cylinders. I figured it would be weird that all 4 would go at the same time, so i replaced the ECM instead. Still no spark. Where to go next? Also the car does have an immobilizer in it...that could be causing it to malfunction?
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