Hyundai - Elantra :: 2002 - Loud Noise From Front Tires
Jul 20, 2013
I bought an 02 Elantra last August with 128,000 miles on it. The front tires make a noise at almost any speed that reminds me of a 4X4 with mud tires going down a highway. I have replaced the axles, front struts, outer tie rod ends and one irregular rim, and I will replace the rear struts this weekend. Varying the tire inflation has no effect on the noise. When I got it aligned, the mechanic told me they had to swap the front tires to get the alignment within spec, and the uneven wear should cancel out. That was 3,000 miles ago and the noise level hasn't changed. The front tires still have 5/16 of tread on them. Should I keep waiting it out, get new tires, look for some other cause, see if there's a hole in the firewall I can soundproof, or what?
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 72,000 miles on it. For the last few weeks, I've been hearing loud thud sounds on the passenger side when the car is cold or fairly cold. It almost sounds like someone is throwing tennis balls at the passenger side door while I'm driving. It happens when I'm stopped or when I'm driving - either way. Today, the Check Engine light went on; I don't know if it's related.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra that makes a RRrrrRRRrRRR noise when turning corners - only to the right. It's not a screeching or scraping noise... more of a loud whirring or humming. One note- back left tire was removed and repaired shortly before this began - could that relate?
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I bought my 2011 Sonata with 27k miles on it. After a while (few months) I noticed on occasion when turning I would get a screeching/squeal noise from the front tires. Only happened during certain turns (U turns I noticed where higher chance of happening).
I rotated the tires (Front to the rear, Rear to the front), and then there was a loud humming noise. I got it checked with the dealer and they confirmed tires were cupping (uneven treadwear right?) . So now its been 10,000 miles and the noise is the same. I just got an alignment done and there has been not much of a change.
So, other than getting new tires, should I get the tires balanced? Or just rotate them once more so that the rear return to the front again? Will I have to get another alignment done?
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I bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 72,000 miles on it. My rear tires are worn. Do I put the replacement tires on the rear or on the front (and rotate the front tires to the back?) I've asked several mechanics and got several different answers. Isn't there a definite answer to this question?
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I have a 2013 Elantra, new in January, 6600 miles on it, and I took it in to the dealership today because it was making funny noises this week from the left front wheel; the noise gets faster as I drive faster. The left front tire has a bubble in it, and they're telling me the wheel is bent and the bearing is cracked, so they'll need to replace the tire, wheel, hub, bearing and do something with the alignment AND it's not covered under warranty because it is "impact damage." Is this even possible on a new car like this? For the bearing to be cracked without a big accident? I don't remember hitting a pot hole or running over a curb. Shouldn't this be covered under normal use? I'm concerned that I'm being ripped off
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2011 Hyundai Elantra, 42k miles. The car is my girlfriends which I drive once every few weeks. Yesterday I noticed a rumbling noise coming from the right front tire area. The noise only comes about when turning a fairly sharp left while above 20 mph. Taking a left onto a side street etc doesn't cause any noise, but taking one while going through a big intersection etc. Where the speed is up a little bit causes the noise. The tires are original, obviously not new, but they still have a decent amount of tread left on them, they're Continental Pro Contacts.
Tire, ball-joint, brake pad rubbings? I'm going to take it to get looked at tomorrow, I did spray the area with a hose in case there was something caught in there, but that didn't change anything. The tire looks fine, no abnormal wear or bulges, the car is in alignment and makes no other noise except in the circumstance noted.
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I am getting frustrated with a loud banging noise in the front end of my Elantra. It happens when I hit bumps or dips in the road. I have replaced struts, bearings and mounts, sway bar links, control arm bushings and nothing will fix it. The ball joints and tie rods are tight.
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Having problem with my car (2001 Elantra GT) - over the last month or so it's been occasionally making a very loud (not but consistent) grinding noise coming from the front of the car when decelerating at low speeds. The noise sounds like gears slipping over each other but cuts in and out. It's pretty loud and not a nice noise to hear! Sometimes it makes the noise when I brake firmy but not until I reach lower speeds... mostly it's just when coming to a stop, but it did it once last week when I was pulling very slowly out of a parking spot and not even braking.
As it's become more frequent (going form maybe once a week to several times every car journey) I have started to feel something in the brake pedal also, like there's something kicking it from behind. I took it to a mechanic and had to pay a ton of money to get a broken front left ABS ring replaced (it also had the front right ring replaced in May), and within 2 minutes of driving away from the place the noise was back. Before I spend even more money that I don't have on taking it back for extra diagnosis.
I'm told that this is almost certainly the ABS system that has a fault even though the ABS light never shows except when I start the car, and I've taken the fuses out of the ABS in order to confirm that it is. I haven't heard the noise after a few days of driving with ABS unplugged so I think we can be reasonably sure here. Is there anything that I can check myself or test (I'm not very handy when it comes to cars) or can you tell from this information what it's likely to be? Other things that I've noticed with the car which may or may not be relevant are:
- the warning lights for brakes, ABS and TCS are all lit with the fuses for ABS1 and ABS2 taken out. I take it this is normal for all 3 to illuminate with the fuses out?
- since unplugging the ABS I've noticed a slight metallic squeal from the brakes as if the brakes are worn down. Didn't notice this before I unplugged ABS though it may have been there, not sure.
- sometimes when going over a speed bump or just a minor imperfection in the road I hear a clunk in the front of the car and feel something move in the underside of the car. Happens mostly at lower speeds also, but not if I go over the bump really slowly.
- in the fuse box when I took out the ABS fuses I noticed there was a bit of minor melting/brown burn marks on the top of the connections marked (iirc) ECO3 and ECO4 on the diagram (large white connectors). Is this anything to be concerned about?
- sometimes when I have air coming into the car through the air vents it will become significantly warmer for a few minutes, then slowly go back to normal. Can't think of any circumstance that links the times when this happens (eg. speed, weather etc).
- the oil pan has a leak which is on the list of things to fix when the car works properly.
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I have a 2011 E Sedan and recently started hearing a loud grating noise from the passenger front wheel area. It only happens when turning the wheel to the left. It isn't a popping noise like the traditional CV Joint and the boot is still intact.
I jacked the front up today and put it on jack stands. I pulled the tire, caliper, caliper mounting bracket, and rotor to look at the dust shield and there was no sign of it rubbing, nor was there any other wear marks. With everything still disassembled, I turned the wheel hub with my hands and noticed the same, though fainter, sound. I started the car and put it in drive and once again the same noise was coming from the hub assembly area, although I didn't use a stethoscope to listen.
The noise is more profound when under load turning left, but it still seems to coming from the same area. My plan is to replace the entire wheel hub assembly since they aren't that expensive. That, and I don't want to go through the headache of puling everything apart to simply replace the bearings.
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I have a 2002 Rendezvous. I keep on hearing a loud noise coming from the front of the car when I am driving and it gets louder when I drive faster. My mechanic says its because of a brake rotor that's hung up on something in the car.
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2002 Mountaineer, suddenly started making a loud clicking noise driver side front. Seldom in reverse. Struts and axle look good, nothing hanging down.
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I just replaced half shaft on driver side of my 2002 elantra. I took off brake caliper and pads to get to shaft now that I've put everything back together theirs a sound like the brakes are slightly touching but not sure it's not cv shaft?
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I have a 2002 Elantra that has been in shop 3xs for same thing. The car says it is missfiring on 1 and I have changed wires, coil pack and spark plugs with no success.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
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i have a 2002 santa fe which will not go into 5th and reverse So i have put a new clutch in and new oil ....
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Can not get it to start. Turns over. Replaced wires, coils, ECM, check fuses and fuel pump is on. Power to coils.
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (5-speed manual) with about 185,000 miles on it, which has developed an issue within the last 2 months. The car acts like it is shut off for a split second - tachometer drops suddenly, check engine light flashes very briefly and you lurch a little bit as you lose power, but then after maybe a second, it is back to normal. This has happened while accelerating, cruising down the highway, and idling at a stop sign. The car hasn't actually killed while idling, but is close.
Had it in to a mechanic, and they checked for error codes but found none, and of course it didn't happen while the mechanic had it. On a recent 2 hour trip, it happened maybe 50 times? But hasn't happened for the last week. I should mention that we had the exhaust manifold/front catalytic converter replaced about 3 months ago, as well as a camshaft sensor (those had error codes before we changed them). We've done the recommended maintenance over the years, but are due for another plug/wire replacement (could this be the issue?).
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My 2007 manual transmission Hyundai elantra makes a single "tch" sound in the front passenger side. It does it at high speeds in 5th gear over long distances. Also if the car sits for a while it will make the noise right after shifting to second gear if the rpms are a bit high. What it could be?
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