Hyundai - Elantra :: 2002 - LED Versus Halogen Headlight Bulbs / Wipers Shudder Across The Windshield A Lot
Apr 23, 2016
Looking for a rundown on LED versus halogen headlight bulbs, especially output and life? Stock halogen bulbs using 55 watts have a 4000K output, and I notice the Chinese imports' output is 3200-3500K. Does that translate into less bright? Also, the windshield wipers shudder across the windshield a lot unless there's a huge amount of rain--changing to new blades didn't make any difference.
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I have a couple of questions regarding changing out my headlight from halogen bulbs to an HID kit.
1st) What size bulb are the low beam (headlights)?
2nd) What HID kit would be recommended? I am trying to replace the halogen bulb with an HID bulb, a plug and play HID kit that will last but also does not reflect every where such as replacing reflectors with halogen to an HID kit.
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The headlight on the driver's side has burned out, should i move the battery in order to get to the bulb?
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So I think someone reset the headlights on my r32 with a different setting (previous owner) The h7 halogen bulbs do not come on while your driving regardless of the position of the light switch. was wondering is it possible to get a euro switch and program those H7 to be a fog light? I plan on doing a lot of winter driving when the time comes and having a set of yellow fogs support a ton.
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The car will be at the dealer to trouble shoot why the windshield wipers stay on when the engine is running. Will not shut off! Obvious parts replaced to no avail.
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My windshield wipers do not park all the way down. The left one is up at a 5 degree incline, the right one more like 15 or 20 degrees. I went through a car wash today, and the air dryer blew them all the way to the left, and back to the right a little. I turned them on and back off, and they returned to the original position (5 and 15 degrees). Car is 2002 Grand Marquis LS.
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I have an '06 Toyota Avalon XL and I bought some Silver Star 9006 bulbs at AZ the other night, but when I got back home, pulled into the garage and popped the hood, I was amazed at how much of a PITA it looked to remove the low-beam bulb, especially on the driver's side. I'd hate to take it to the dealer just to get the frickin headlight bulbs changed.
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So I bought a set of Phillips XTreme Vision bulbs for my GTI VII S. Problem is that I cant seem to open the rear housing of the headlight on the drivers side to gain access to make the switch. The gearbox is right behind and there is barely room to get my hand back there. Is there some trick I am overlooking?
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My husband is rebuilding our 07 Prius that has HID Headlights that were both broken and does not want to go back with HID due to cost. He wants to install complete Halogen Headlight assemblies from our parts car. He has rebuilt several Prius' for friends and family but has not done a change like this so he understands the basic differences but is stuck on the Wiring change to handle the low and high beam differences. Wiring is not his strong point!
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I drive a 2002 Opel Corsa and am completely clueless when it comes to anything beyond changing oil and tires...
My windshield wipers have suddenly begun to stop their movement in the top position instead of at the bottom, thereby getting in the way of driving. The wiping function still works perfectly, so it doesn't seem to be a motor issue. The wipers just stop in the wrong position when turned off.
I happened to be at the garage for something else, and the guy there said that he would just have to replace the motor, but to try to to find a used part somewhere so that it wouldn't cost a lot. I think it seems silly to replace the motor for something that seems simple.
How to reset the default of the wipers? Is there a way to just remove the blades and change the position or something?
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I have a 2008 Prius pkg 6, passenger side headlight goes out, and then later comes back on. Went to parts store and they sold me a lamp to replace it with. Not only do I not know how to replace it, I do not know whether it is a Halogen or HID lamp?
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Well one of the bulbs in my regular halogen housings went out, so I went and bought a pair and replaced the bulbs. Everything was great until I took a testdrive and noticed I was signalling MIR (or I guess the ISS this millenium) illuminating road signs very well, and the ground not so well...
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I finally purchased an RX30 for my wife. The Halogen headlight isn't all that bad, but I am used to drive with HID. Therefore, I am buying HID kits for my RX350 Headlight. Whenever it is shipped to me, I will take pictures of the progress.
1/ Link to buy HID kits, OEM is 55W (no need for extra Hardnes) and 6000k is common factory color.
This will come with everything needed to convert your light bulbs into HID white colors. For more Colors please check out the guide on the website.
I recommend this site, because I have used it, purchased it, and have had no problem with it so far.
2/ According to Manual Book
****Low Beam is H11****
Fog Lights is *****H11*****
****High Beam is H9*****
**** 55W *****
3/ The installation should be Relatively Easy
--Take off engine plastic cover on both side--
--Access the Light Bulb--
--Use the OEM Plugs into the Ballasts input of the HID KID--
--Mount the Ballasts at a convenience locations, I had great success with Plastic ties--
--There is a Plugs output from the Ballast, Plug it into the HID Bulbs--
*****If the lights don't turn on after installation, try to switch Polary, or turn the original plugs around
****** Halogen doesn't care about Polary, but HID Ballast does.
--Install the HID Bulbs the same as regular Halogen Bulb--
--Check the HID carefully, make sure that both will work--
First time Installer common trouble shoots.
1/ Only 1 light is working......Switching the bulbs, or Polary will solve your problem
2/ Lights common for a short time then turn off, until engine restart......You will need the Hardness Relay, which should not occur in our car. The factory hardness is good for 55W
3/ Bulb Visually contain Contaminants, or White particle inside.......HID Bulbs has Special Salt in it, which is required for a longer life in the Bulbs. This is the way the bulbs are.
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my buddies just got a used 2015 sonata and I'm wondering who will win or what car has the advantage?
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I have a 2002 Elantra that has been in shop 3xs for same thing. The car says it is missfiring on 1 and I have changed wires, coil pack and spark plugs with no success.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
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i have a 2002 santa fe which will not go into 5th and reverse So i have put a new clutch in and new oil ....
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Can not get it to start. Turns over. Replaced wires, coils, ECM, check fuses and fuel pump is on. Power to coils.
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (5-speed manual) with about 185,000 miles on it, which has developed an issue within the last 2 months. The car acts like it is shut off for a split second - tachometer drops suddenly, check engine light flashes very briefly and you lurch a little bit as you lose power, but then after maybe a second, it is back to normal. This has happened while accelerating, cruising down the highway, and idling at a stop sign. The car hasn't actually killed while idling, but is close.
Had it in to a mechanic, and they checked for error codes but found none, and of course it didn't happen while the mechanic had it. On a recent 2 hour trip, it happened maybe 50 times? But hasn't happened for the last week. I should mention that we had the exhaust manifold/front catalytic converter replaced about 3 months ago, as well as a camshaft sensor (those had error codes before we changed them). We've done the recommended maintenance over the years, but are due for another plug/wire replacement (could this be the issue?).
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I bought an 02 Elantra last August with 128,000 miles on it. The front tires make a noise at almost any speed that reminds me of a 4X4 with mud tires going down a highway. I have replaced the axles, front struts, outer tie rod ends and one irregular rim, and I will replace the rear struts this weekend. Varying the tire inflation has no effect on the noise. When I got it aligned, the mechanic told me they had to swap the front tires to get the alignment within spec, and the uneven wear should cancel out. That was 3,000 miles ago and the noise level hasn't changed. The front tires still have 5/16 of tread on them. Should I keep waiting it out, get new tires, look for some other cause, see if there's a hole in the firewall I can soundproof, or what?
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