Hyundai - Elantra :: 1999 - Reverse Light Won't Turn Off
Dec 22, 2012
My reverse lights stopped working and i was told that it is my reverse light switch. so i order a replacement. I took out the old and put in the new one but now the lights won't turn off.
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i have a 2002 santa fe which will not go into 5th and reverse So i have put a new clutch in and new oil ....
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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I recently heard a sort of clunking noise when the wheel is turn all the way to either side, going slowly, and pressing the brake. I took the car in and the guys told me it was something call the front struts and mounts. Plus, that I needed to replace the inner tie rods (described as a joint). The cost was crazy high, at around $1300 (plus the alignment). The car is a Hyundai Elantra year 2007, with an 87,000 miles.
My question is, in the event that this is not covered by the warranty, how pressing is the issue? Obviously, any issue can become pressing if left uncheck or exacerbated my another issue. But, if the noise I hear is minor, is it going to do lasting damage to the car if not corrected in the next month?
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Our emissions light lit up on the dash board of our Elantra. I took the car into the garage we have been taking it to for 5 years. The new office manager said we need front brake pads and new rotor and a new AC belt. and then they discovered the rear o2 sensor needs to be replaced.
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In March 2012, the EPS light came on in my Elantra and the power steering went out. At first, when I would restart the car, the light would go off for a time and the power steering would work, but soon it would revert to EPS light and no power steering. I took it to the dealer who ran a couple of updates and tightened a loose connection. All was well until January 2013, when the EPS light came on again and the power steering quit working. No amount of restarting, crossing fingers, or using bad language, would make the light go off and return the steering to normal. Back to the dealer I went. This time the verdict was bad.
Now, in July 2013, my battery (which I had replaced in January 2013) died. Seriously died. Not a sound, not a click. When the car was jump-started, imagine my surprise when the EPS light was out and the power steering worked. After a new battery was in place, the power steering continued to work just fine - so far. My question is this. Would a bad/low battery have anything to do with the EPS malfunctioning? Today, I took the car in for a recall fix and asked this question of the service manager. He said, of course not, but to keep my fingers crossed and hope that it continues to work. So, how can a steering column that needs to be replaced, suddenly begin to work at precisely the moment there is a full electrical charge available to the car? How can there not be a connection?
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Engine light shows" Airbag". Ram Auto did a diagnostic and error code did not show up. Ram tried to delete the code, could not. They suggested search re-calls since this is a hot topic in the news about Hyundai's problem with airbag opening without cause. Did a research and there are no re-call for the year 2003-there are re-call for the year 2004. If the airbag light stays on and there is cause for it to open, it will not.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
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The blue cool engine light went off today. What does that mean?
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My daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
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My girl friends car is doing something interesting, well it started off the car died while she was driving home from work, so I towed it with my truck home, the alternator had went bad so i changed that, but no here is where the problem comes in that i cant figure out, the car will start and run for about 3 miles than it will die in and out, loose power but not kill the engine and the check engine light flashes, and now the radio does not work at all (at idle or running) and the head lights are dim.i tested the battery, it was with in ranges for cold starting, output while the car is on and a few other thing, i re checked my belts and they are all tight and in the correct alignment ...
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My trunk light on the cluster gauge will not turn off. I removed the trunk light bulb so it wouldn't drain the battery but over the span of about a month the battery gets low enough not to start, so I'm assuming its keeping something else on in addition to the light. I only drive about 150 miles a month so it doesn't have much time to recharge even if it is a small draw. I disconnected the sensor in the trunk but the light is still on, The odd thing is that if I apply high G's from breaking or accelerating quickly, the light will turn off till I stop accelerating/decelerating (normal driving does not effect it). I'm thinking its probably a short from an aftermarket remote start/security system that was removed. I do not use the factory alarm so I do not care about the trunk sensor being disabled but I cant seem to figure out where to disconnect it from (pulling the fuse did nothing)and I assume I need to find the trunk/hatch pin wire that it is referring to. Or am I going about this all wrong?
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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How do you replace the reverse light switch on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra manual transmition?
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I'm looking to wire in a AUX light to my reverse lights. As an option, I want to be able to turn the AUX light on without putting the car into reverse as well. This is what I have setup currently and it allows the AUX light to turn on when in reverse with no issues but I can't get the switch to activate the light separately from putting the car into reverse. Every time I flip the switch, it blows the fuse near the 12v input source and never fires up the AUX light. I was wondering if I have the wrong relays or even the wrong switch.
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Why after disable DRL , When I do reverse only the passenger rear white light turn on. Before both turn on.
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I just purchased my first VW about a month ago. (Golf tsi white auto). I love the way the car drives/handles. But I was surprised because at just under a 1000 miles the engine light went on. Took it to VW service to check it out. They had to keep it for a few days to do tests with the main VW center. I got the car back without much explanation other than they put in an O2 sensor.
No engine light now for a couple weeks. They also noticed that my wheels are missing 4 lug nut covers (not a big deal). For some reason I am just starting to notice the green brake light on when I first turn on the ignition prior to setting in reverse which disappears upon reverse or drive. I assume this is normal... Question: should I be concerned about this engine light O2 sensor issue?
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Recently my heat/ ac will just randomly turn off and turn back on whenever it feels like it, and also when i try to lower or raise the temp it changes cd player to the tuner to aux and so on ... Its a 2002 hyundai xg350l
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When my 2001 Elantra is started, the door chime remains on and the red "door open" indicator remains lit on the dashboard. The chiming continues throughout my entire drive.
While the engine is running I am not able to lock the doors. When the engine is not running, I can lock the doors, but the inside red light on the door, on the driver's side only, stays lit.
I have checked all the fuses, do you know what I can do to either fix it or disable the chiming so I can drive more peacefully?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 2.4, 4-cyl automatic. While pulling into a parking space, the driver in the vehicle next to me threw her door open. I braked quickly (but did not slam on the brakes) to avoid hitting the door then continued into the space after she closed her door. I then tried to put my car in reverse to re-position it in the parking slot. The shifter on the console would not go into REVERSE and obviously not into PARK since PARK on the shifter is above REVERSE. The shifter will go into both DRIVE and NEUTRAL. I now have a car that will go only forward. Also, I cannot remove the key from the ignition switch since the shifter will not go into PARK. I've not had a problem like this with this or any car before.
I also noticed that my ABS/ESC has been coming on more frequently and staying on and I attributed that to a bad sensor since my brakes are in good shape and I have not had to rely on the ABS system. I don't believe that the ABS/ESC warning light and the shifter problem are connected but I'm not totally sure. Why my shifter won't go into REVERSE or PARK????
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I have a 2003 hyundai elantra gt. All the lights and bulbs work, except for the rear left brake light. I've replaced it twice now, and used a bulb I know was good, so the problem is not a bulb. I checked the fuse, and the fuse is ok as well. When I measure at the bulb socket with an ammeter I get around 20 mA which I assume is too small and I assume there is a loose wire somewhere.
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