2008 Hyundai Account 4door78,721 Miles. I've only had it for a year. Taken it to dealership they performed diagnostic test, no codes. When its cold my car shuts off while driving and is difficult to remain on after starting it. When temperature is about 70 degrees car runs fine. I have tried new battery...didn't work. I have replaced spark plugs.....didn't work.
View 11 RepliesMy car is a 2003 Hyundai accent . When getting gas, the gas pump often shuts off several times( almost every $0.50 of gas) well before my gas tank is full. Also, I have to fill the tank VERY SLOWLY to prevent spills and it takes a long time to fill up the tank. After Im done the car takes gives a bit of problem to start. Could it be the fuel filter?
View 6 RepliesAbout 5 weeks ago my 2008 Hyundai accent's check engine light came on. It came on right after I filled up a tank of gas and started running a bit rough. About a year ago the same thing happened, and it turned out to have been because of some bad gas (I ran the tank down, refilled and everything went back to normal). I assumed that was the same thing this time because the gas was from the same location and the problems started right after the fill-up.
I drove it for about a week and then it stalled out completely. Rpm wouldn't go over about 2,000 and if I tried to drive I wouldn't go over about 10mph. I took it into the local shop. Replaced all kinds of fuel sensors, spark plug coils, and the main computer, and I think the fuel pump (all of which got fried). The error codes are all fixed and the car idles just fine. Only problem, when you put it in gear to drive it almost immediately bogs down, rpm stays below 2k (still) and eventually it will totally stall out.
The shop is now saying they think it's the catalytic converter - but they aren't sure. The car idles smoothly now, no error codes. But as soon as you try to drive it barely moves. It feels like there's a governor on the engine or like there's not enough fuel getting through. What to try next.
I know, sounds like blown head gasket. However oil looks fine, no coolant leaking and coolant looks fine. It also does not overheat (that I can see, it dies first). This all started a few weeks ago. I changed spark plugs, oil and undercoated the car with primer. I did get some paint on the radiator. I also put techron in the fuel tank and changed fuel filter. The car ran fine before, now here is what is happening step for step.
Car starts fine, idle is a bit rough (it was before too) but nothing drastic. I rev car at 2500 RPM until it is warm. The thermostat stays in the middle yet I begin to see a good amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. If I take foot off the accelerator the car will shut off at this point. If the car is not warm yet, it won't shut off. When it does shut off, I cannot restart it even with gas pedal down. It just cranks and cranks. When I let it cool down it starts up fine and the same thing occurs. I cannot tell if the radiator fans are turning on as the car dies before they turn on (it's cool outside). The thermostat never indicates overheating.
The entire radiator is smoking white (not from cap) but I assume that is from my paint overspray burning off. Could this be getting sucked in and stalling the car out when the car warms up enough to start burning off the paint? Could I have painted something inappropriate? What could this be? I know a decent amount about cars.
If I let the car warm up just by idling it will run until it gets warm then it stalls and again, won't start until it cools. It seems to keep running if I keep RPMS up but right when I take foot off accelerator when warm it shuts off.
Over the last several weeks my car (2010 Hyundai Accent, 60k miles) started randomly stalling on me. I took it to my mechanic earlier this week and all 4 ignition coils were replaced. Yesterday I accidentally left my headlights on for about 2.5 hours and the car was completely dead. I got it jumped and drove it around for about 35 minutes. I had the battery tested at Autozone and they said it is good. Then last night it stalled in the McDonald's line - I was able to restart it and get home but this morning it is completely dead again. Also twice yesterday after starting up the car the rpm dial wasn't moving at all. The car was accelerating just fine but the rpm dial did not reflect this. Of the several times I drove it yesterday it only did this twice. Someone told me to bring the battery to Autozone to get it fully charged, but does that explain the rpm dial not moving?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with about 83,000 miles. Lately it has been having issue with the rpm's going low and stalling out while I'm driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and it has not been resolved. He said it does not need a tune up and it's nothing with my fuel. I've also heard it could be a crank shaft censor but he says no. The check engine light has come on sometimes, very quickly but then goes off.. He ran the code but nothing came up. So then what's causing my car to do this?? While the car is running and I'm in park, the rpm's will go from 2 to almost 0 then back up again. While I'm driving down the road it does the same thing and sometimes it completely stalls out while I'm going about 40mph. So incredibly scary. What this could be so I can take it back and get it fixed!!!! I'm so scared to drive it but I have to get to work.
View 3 RepliesI was driving my Sonata this morning to work as usual. It was a wet morning but not raining. I hit a pothole (which I've hit before) going 35-40 mph. About 1-2 minutes later I was driving about 30-35 mph when I heard a click, lost power and then everything came back on. I believe during this "power loss" that I couldn't accelerate since I remember the rpm going down but I know that I took my foot off of the accelerator when this happened. I kept driving to work and about 2-3 minutes later while coasting down a hill at 35-45 mph. It happened really fast twice in a row.
Each time there was a click, the lights would dim or shut off completely (not sure since it happens so fast), the check engine light would flash, and I believe the radio turned off. Since it happened so fast (click, shut off, and back on) I didn't get to see if I could keep driving (accelerate) or if power steering was gone. I am guessing that they would be gone with my limited knowledge of what I was experiencing. I was able to drive 8 minutes to work without it happening again. I popped the hood looking for a loose connection around the battery but nothing was popping out at me. My car has 117,000 miles and has regular maintenance done. Any ways I could diagnose it further? Can O'reilleys check the code that flashed on and off if it isn't on anymore?
The problem I am having is when the engine is cold it will not start. I can push start it and it will fire. Once I have drove it and the engine temp has gotten up I can shut it off and leave it for a couple of hours come back and it fires right up. If I leave it for 3 or 4 hours and come back the car will not start I have to push start it again. If I spray a little starter fluid in it it will try to fire but will not start except on 2 occasions where the starter fluid started the car.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Accent which pops out of gear when I am driving in 4th or 5th. This started 2 months ago, in 4th, but happened in 5th while on a trip from Maryland to Michigan July 30. I took it to the 1st Hyundai dealership and a sales rep drove it and confirmed the problem but said it was safe to drive if I kept my hand on the gear shift and held it in gear. After a while of driving I could not even hold it in 5th, and I drove all the way from Ann Arbor to Baltimore with it in 4th, my hand holding it in gear all the way.
I drove immediately to the dealership where I bought it, and the "mechanic" did not experience the pop out. On the way home from the dealership, it popped out 3 times in a 12 mile trip. I took it to another dealership, same result. I am not comfortable driving this car, especially since I have to keep one hand on the wheel and one hand on the gear shift knob if I am in 4th or 5th. The car is still under warranty.
If you drive less than 6000 or maybe even less than 3000 miles a year, how often should one change the oil on the car? Or don't bother with time interval but mileage as recommended for the make and model? I'm not sure there's a recommendation for time on the make & model, I'll check sometime.
Car in question is a Hyundai Accent 2009
Have a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with about 90,000 miles. I bought it with 30,000 from a dealership that had been using it as their "loaner" car. Don't know if the brakes were new when I got it, but let's assume they were.
The brakes have been squeaking since Day 1, especially when first driving. In the first few years of ownership I took the car to several different mechanics, convinced my brakes needed replacing. Was told that no, I had tons of life left on them and the rotors were in good shape. Each time they'd clean the dust off them and I'd be squeak-free for a day or two. After a few years of ownership, when it rained and I'd start driving my brakes would be SO loud and an almost-grinding noise could be heard. Not only that, but sometimes after a rainy night when I first braked, the car would almost lurch when making a stop. I honestly thought I had been lightly rear-ended the first few times it happened. Asked multiple mechanics to check the brakes and was told everything looked fine.
Now, I've put nearly 60,000 miles on this car. I still haven't replaced the brakes because each time I bring it somewhere to do so I get told I don't need it. I can't believe that brakes with 60,000 miles on them have any life left, but multiple mechanics say otherwise. The most recent mechanic attributed the lurching to moisture in the ABS. Seriously, what could be going on here?
I'm about to tell my mechanic to replace both my brakes/rotors next week no matter what, but it would be nice to know possible causes to my issue. I drive my toddler around daily and I just don't trust my brakes. One brake failure will be one too many. On a side note, this, coupled with low MPH, no power, and a transmission I feel is slowly on a death spiral.
I have a mysterious problem with my Accent (2008). It starts perfectly on cold mornings after an overnight sleep but has difficulties on starting after I drive for half an hour or more, stopping and turning off the engine and then trying to start again after a few minutes stop. The starter would sound then stuttering as fighting against a very heavy load, like an electric shaver with a bad battery. Sometimes it won't spin and I have to wait several nerve wracking minutes or more to be able to start the engine. The car was checked in a certified garage. The electricity is very good and they also replaced the cam sensor with a new one. The car drives better on heavy load etc., but no change on the actual hot-starting problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Accent and it has 150,000 miles on it. Recently the car gives me problem when I try to start and has to pump gas to get it started. The spark plugs look ok. The battery was weak and so I replaced it but it still gives me problem. If I keep the car shut for say 5 minutes (when I shut it off at the gas station to fill gas), it gives me problem starting. If I shut the engine for longer time (15 minutes or longer) then it is ok.
View 5 RepliesMy 2006 hyundai accent makes a humming noise while driving. it gets louder the faster i accelerate. I have checked the wheel bearing but they appear to be fine. i jacked the car up and tested the wheel by pulling and pushing back and forth at the 12 o' clock position and etc. no give in either wheel. i also held the spring and spun both wheels with no vibration. I also rotated tires back to front. when i did this noise seemed to be lower.But still there. I did hit a fallen sign on the highway going 70 mph. I am wondering if this may have damaged my tires or if it still could be wheel bearing. and there is no vibration in steering wheel or while driving. just annoying humming.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Accent with 8800 miles on it. The battery warning kept coming on while I was driving, took it to Hyundai dealership and they said the alternator had an issue and they replaced it. The day I brought the car back from the dealership the warning popped up again, took it back to them and they kept my car for a week and finally told me there was an issue with ground.Its been a month and I finally thought it was resolved until 2 days back it popped up again. I don't know if it makes any sense but the warning showed when I turned on the heater and the rear defroster on. Once the warning light came on, now even if the rear defroster is not on my battery warning light comes on. It doesn't show up every time I start the car but frequently. Sometimes when the warning light is on the rear defroster does not work. What could it be?
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2008 Hyundai Accent about 2 weeks ago. It has 65,000 miles on it. One week after purchase the check engine light came on. The dealership looked at it and said it was just a leak from the gas cap. So I purchased a new gas cap and the light is still on. I had the guys at AutoZone hook it up to their computer and they said the same thing. They also said that if the light is still on after putting on a new gas cap it could be the fuel injector or a vacuum leak. It has been less than 30 days that I have had this car. What is my next step here?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. My battery light and seatbelt light comes on when I'm driving at low speeds (below 20mph) and my A/C is on. FYI my A/C is an after-market unit. Do you think my A/C could have been connected incorrectly and is draining my battery?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
Vehicle is an 08 Hyundai Accent 1.6L three door (hatchback) with 20,197 miles. This car was born on Oct. 16, 2007 and purchased in April of 2008. I told the owner to call the dealer and find out about when they should replace the timing belt as I had looked it up at the Gates site and found that it is an interference motor and also these Hyundai have some kind of lengthy warranty. When the tech or whoever she spoke to at the dealership asked about the mileage, they told her that she does not need to worry about the belt for about another five years, were rude and sounded inconvenienced by her calling. This leaves her with a bad taste in her mouth and more importantly, mis-informed.
I get the "Maintenance Log" out of the glove box and upon trying to decipher the timing belt interval, it states that the first course of action is an "inspection" at 30,000 miles or 24 months. How is a timing belt inspected? From what I have seen, a belt can look perfect today and snap tomorrow. But anyway, the next entry for severe service is replacement at 37,500 miles or 30 months which means this belt should have been replaced in October of 2010. Next entry is normal change at 60,000 miles or 48 months which puts us at April of 2012. After this it goes to 75,000 miles or 60 months.
I have already picked up the kit for changing the belt, tensioner, idler, and the two seals. How critical is it to change the spring as that was not included in the kit I got? I'm planning to do this job here in the next couple days as from what I can figure from the above log, It's way over due. I was reading some Hyundai forums and one stated that the 2011 model with the exact same engine calls for the first replacement due at 90,000 miles. How's this possible? Seems like these people (engineers) don't have all their stuff in one bag...
I've got an '08 Hyundai Accent, and the radio just loses power altogether sometimes. At first I thought it was a fuse, but then it came back on after a while. I realize it's likely a bad connection, but where specifically to look for this connection before I take the dash apart?
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