Hyundai - Accent :: 2005 - Won't Start When Engine Is Cold?
Apr 29, 2011
The problem I am having is when the engine is cold it will not start. I can push start it and it will fire. Once I have drove it and the engine temp has gotten up I can shut it off and leave it for a couple of hours come back and it fires right up. If I leave it for 3 or 4 hours and come back the car will not start I have to push start it again. If I spray a little starter fluid in it it will try to fire but will not start except on 2 occasions where the starter fluid started the car.
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I have a mysterious problem with my Accent (2008). It starts perfectly on cold mornings after an overnight sleep but has difficulties on starting after I drive for half an hour or more, stopping and turning off the engine and then trying to start again after a few minutes stop. The starter would sound then stuttering as fighting against a very heavy load, like an electric shaver with a bad battery. Sometimes it won't spin and I have to wait several nerve wracking minutes or more to be able to start the engine. The car was checked in a certified garage. The electricity is very good and they also replaced the cam sensor with a new one. The car drives better on heavy load etc., but no change on the actual hot-starting problem.
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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When I started the car the check engine light came on. Since there had been a lot of rain recently, I thought that perhaps it was an electrical malfunction since the performance of the car did not seem to be affected. I was only a few miles from home and going at a constant speed on the highway. When I slowed down to get off at my exit I noticed that the car wasn't getting up to gear with the same power as it had been. By the time I had to slow down for five or six stop signs, the car was having a lot of trouble getting up to speed, and at the stop sign before my drive way, it stalled and wouldn't start (although it always sounds like it's just about to turn over). The mechanic is suggesting an engine flush and tune up, but both seem a little excessive, especially the engine flush.
2005 Hyundai Sonata (manual transmission)....
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2008 Hyundai Account 4door78,721 Miles. I've only had it for a year. Taken it to dealership they performed diagnostic test, no codes. When its cold my car shuts off while driving and is difficult to remain on after starting it. When temperature is about 70 degrees car runs fine. I have tried new battery...didn't work. I have replaced spark plugs.....didn't work.
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On cold start ups only I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. It's a consistent sound that goes away after the engine warms up and idles down. Could it be the belts? I'm not concerned to be honest because the engine runs fine.
NOTE: I have also noticed that when cold in between shifts the vehicle seems to hesitate, almost as if trying to catch up. Hard to explain, but it only happens when the engine is cold.
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My 01 accent's engine makes a clattering sound(sounds a little bit like a diesel engine) when it's first started in the morning. After warming up (in about 20 seconds or so) the sound disappears. My oil level is normal(last oil change about 4k miles ago with full synthetic oil. I normally change oil at 5k intervals with full synthetic), timing belt changed about 1 year(20k miles) ago. Should I be worried?
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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I have uneven pad wear on the front discs. The passenger side has about 1/8" pad left, while the driver's side is almost new. The car pulls to the passenger side on braking.
I've had a bad hose on a different car which caused a caliper to lock (and actually lit the pads on fire!), but both calipers are moving when the brakes are applied.
What I'm trying to figure out is how to determine which side and component is defective. It seems to me that a partially blocked hose or iffy caliper on the driver's (unworn) side could cause it to have low power. How do I diagnose this?
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent, 62000 miles. When I accelerate there is a vibrating/rattling noise that sounds like it's in the back left side. It only happens sometimes. It happens when i accelerate slowly or up a hill, and if i press on the gas it stops. I thought it was the muffler, but I got the car inspected in May and it was fine. It's been doing it since before then. My dad said it might be a loose heat shield vibrating. It seems to be getting more frequent with humid weather. Should I be worried?
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After a long drive in Arizona heat, my Hyundai Accent won't restart after refueling! Never happened until last Sat., then Fri., then Sunday. Ck eng light, so Mechanic ck'd it, but no codes...Car is '07 with 125K
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I thought it was the power steering pump & replaced it and still get the noise. A friend did squirt belt dressing on the belt while running and the sound disappeared for a short period of time, so now my guess is its the belt which is not loose, I went and loosened the four bolts on the power steering pump trying to move it thinking there was a crooked connection between the two pulleys maybe, but no. I start up my car and get a squeal that wiould wake the dead for a minute or two, then all is fine driving. If I drive to the store shut it off for 10 minutes usually starts w/ no noise, looks like I made a charitable donation on the new pump,...also the the power steering fluid is correct
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My 2000 Hyundai Accent has no power to anything. I checked the battery and it is good. I cleaned the terminals
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent. When it started getting really cold the car began to have issues starting. I turn the key and it tries to start. The battery is fine. I thought it might be something in the fuel line so I had the car towed to the local garage and they said they put the car in the garage and it fired right up. After that the car was fine for a couple weeks. Superbown Sunday after the game I went to get it in and it would not start. On a hunch I went got a bottle of heat put it in and it started right up. It was fine until I refilled the tank then it refused to start so I put more heat in it and it started. I did this once more and it worked. One night after work it wouldn't start so I put heat in it and it would not start. I messed with it for about 2 hours finally I was able to push it down a hill pop the clutch and it started. I took it back to the shop it was in there for 3 days and they were unable to reproduce the problem. Since then every time it is cold it refuses to start I have to push start it every time. Luckily this is still working. I am fed up I dont know what to do with it. Every time I take it to the shop and they cant reproduce the problem it costs me money and I am sick of it.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. In the past 2 weeks, immediately after pumping gas into my car, when I start my car, its difficult to start my car and keep it running. For at least 3-4 minutes after putting gas into my tank, I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep my car running. Sometimes, it will shut off. Then, after a few minutes, all is good and I can drive the car without an issue. What's going on?
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I've got a 2009 Hyundai Accent, 28k miles on it, and was working fine until today. When I turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but the engine doesn't turn at all. My battery seems to be fully charged. I checked my ignition fuses and everything seems fine. Is there anything else I could try? I'm still under warranty, but it's such a hassle dealing with those dealership types.
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I have a 2005 jeep liberty 3.7L with 60,000 miles on it. The engine light when on 2 weeks ago and gave a p300 code. the dealership replaced coil and plugs, I believe. Then would start rough when cold, the engine light would blink for about 10 seconds then remain on. the car runs just fine except when cold....first minute of starting it. they checked for head gasket problem, and cant seem to find the problem. They told me that this could just be something that happens. I don't believe that. I have no loss of power, no hesitation. Runs fine 99% of the time
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Car died at idle on park. Tried to start it back up and was only getting crank. I took it to a local mech and he said my timing belt failed. I paid for the repair and the car still wouldn't start. The shop said the ecu went out. I replaced the cam position sensor and main relay under the dash. Still not getting it to start. I also have a ecu from an 05 accent, would this be plug and play? What else can I do?
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I recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
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I'm TSing a no-start on my 2005 6.0L F250. Engine cranks fine. I've been working my way thru the TSing guide and using my new ScanGaugeII. No codes found. At glow plug warmup, (dash light goes off), I'm getting 40.5v FMP, 11.0v FLP, 14.8% ICP, and 0psi IPR. After cranking for 10-15 sec, get 35.5v, 10.0v, 84.7%, and 446psi. I've had a trickle charger on all night to keep the batteries charged. Have not seen FMP over 45 or IPR over 470.
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I just bought a 2008 Hyundai Accent about 2 weeks ago. It has 65,000 miles on it. One week after purchase the check engine light came on. The dealership looked at it and said it was just a leak from the gas cap. So I purchased a new gas cap and the light is still on. I had the guys at AutoZone hook it up to their computer and they said the same thing. They also said that if the light is still on after putting on a new gas cap it could be the fuel injector or a vacuum leak. It has been less than 30 days that I have had this car. What is my next step here?
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