Hyundai - Accent :: 2004 - Shaking Really Hard After Starting
Feb 5, 2014
About 6 weeks ago, I started my car and it started, but when it did it shook really hard until I turned the engine off. I started it again a few minutes later, and it started just fine; it was a little rough at first, but smoothed out after about 15 seconds. I drove it without any further issue until about 3 weeks ago. It cranked and shook like hell again, without starting. A few minutes later, I tried again, and it started up smoothly. A week ago, I got in the car to come back from the store, and it cranked, didn't shake, but wouldn't start. When the tow truck guy told me my overage for a tow was going to be 105.00 for 12 miles, I told him he was insane and cancelled my tow and then magically, my car started up. I figured it's a fuel or spark problem, and changed the plugs and wires since it's about time to do that anyway. A few days go by, damn car won't start again.
So this is the pattern: Car starts and runs totally fine, except occasionally when it doesn't want to start and only cranks and shakes, and then you leave it alone for a random amount of time (from 5 minutes to a half hour), and it eventually starts. I thought it was only when it was at 1/4 tank or below and was thinking maybe the fuel pump, but today I have 2/3 of a tank and it happened again. Check engine light is only on when it won't start, when it starts up fine the light is off. It's happening more frequently now and I can't afford to keep swapping parts only to find out it's not fixed, so I need to get it figured out. 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6L....
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I own an automatic transmission 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 180,000 miles. I bought it brand new, but it seems to be having trouble shifting into the right gear. Many transmission "specialists" keep telling me they can't figure out what is wrong, aside from offering to completely rebuild my transmission. The car has the following symptoms:
1. At a stop sign or red light, my car doesn't always begin idling properly. Sometimes it just won't go anywhere at all, even with the motor running.
2. As I drive down the highway, it acts like it jumps into a higher gear for no reason. It sometimes resets itself with no action on my part.
3. The car jerks back and forth, not seemingly due to shifting into gear, but randomly.
4. The check engine light does not come on often, but by the time I can use a DTC reader, the light goes off.
Everything seems to be intermittent, so I can't replicate the problem on-demand for anyone who wants to inspect the problems. Is there anything I can do? Is there an easy way to figure out what's really going on? I'm assuming this is transmission-related...
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata and when I refuel the engine is hard to start. Once it starts everything is normal until the next fueling. I've Googled the problem and the most logical result I've seen is that the evap system purge valve might be stuck open. This causes a flooding situation which is how my car acts and if I press the accelorator to the floor when starting it fires right up. Does this diagnosis sound accurate and what would be involved to repair it.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with 116K miles on it. Recently it started to make a squealing noise when I start the car. The sound stays there for about 15-30 seconds and then goes away. Also, while the car is running and I start the AC for the first time the same noise sounds for another 15-30 seconds. I took the car to a local Midas store and they told me to replace two things. Alternator Serpentine Belt and Power Steering Pump V-Belt .Does the parts sound reasonable? I am really novice about car mechanism.
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So, I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent MC (1.4, 71kw) and for the past 2 years I have a very strange problem with the car. At first, when I was reaching a 70 km/h (43 mph) the car was starting to oscillate left and right. It isn't a vibration. It's more like a shaking. Also, when I change 1st to 2nd gear, in acceleration, i feel the same symptom, more like a vibration this time.
The oscillation happens between 70-90 kmh (43 - 60 mph). I really can not figure this out. While accelerating it happens the worst.I changed two sets of wheels and 3 sets of tyres. Also, I don't feel the brakes having a problem. While slowing down, I feel no other vibration in my brake pedal, just the one caused by the oscillation.
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I recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. In the past 2 weeks, immediately after pumping gas into my car, when I start my car, its difficult to start my car and keep it running. For at least 3-4 minutes after putting gas into my tank, I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep my car running. Sometimes, it will shut off. Then, after a few minutes, all is good and I can drive the car without an issue. What's going on?
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I have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
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So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that has been a relatively good car for the 11 years I've owened it. About 2 months ago I got a flat tire, which I didn't notice until a passenger in another car told this while waiting at a stop light. I was so close to home (within a mile) that i decided to trek it slowly back. Made it back and a friend of mine put a donut on and I had the two front tires replaced the next day.
Within a week of having the tire changed I noticed several issues with the car. First, it was starting to make a very loud, almost grinding sound. Looked into whether or not tires had anything to do with it since I just had them changed. I pretty much now think its a wheel bearing. It seems to be coming from the right front passenger side. It gets louder as I speed up and also especially loud during left curves and turns.
But all that is background for my real problem. In addition to the above the transmission started acting up. At first I though it was the engine because the problem was initially just sputtering whenever I would slow the car down to a stop. I changed the spark plugs and wires but that didn't work. Then it started having problems shifting. Even going to 3rd now it can take a while, staying at a higher than normal rpm. And when it finally shifts it knocks hard. Only thing I did was have the transmission oil changed since it was about 40k miles past where Hyundai says it should have been done. That worked only slightly (maybe not at all). On top of that, there's also has an engine smell (like hot burnt oil) inside the car when I drive it for an extended amount of time. This was happening before and after the transmission oil change.
These are the first major issues I've had with this car. The only exception is that I've had a failed oxygen sensor twice but that was cheap to have repaired and both times the check engine light was on. It has not turned on once since this started happening. I've stopped driving the car long distances and especially over hills. I go 5 miles between home and work with it now. I was starting to think about getting another car before this happened but I'm still not ready to do that now.
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2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
Normal fuel consumption & power output. All other maintenance is up to date.
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My wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
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My daughter has a 2000 accent , SOHC 12V, I think it's the 1.5L.. It will not stay running when the engine is cold...........after it warms up, or if it sits in the hot sun it's fine................it has 166K .
She said she took it to an auto parts store and had the engine code read, p1123 came up.....
Code P1123 : Long term fuel trim, at idle - mixture too rich..
What do you think this is caused by................ the inlet air temp sensor? I was told someone just replaced the air max flow sensor, that don't sound correct to me, but that's what they called it....probably the MAF sensor....
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My 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with 78K miles has never had any major problems until a month ago. I was doing errands and after my second errand the car would not start. AAA came jumped it, and I took it to a local shop where they replaced the battery. They said the rest of the car seemed just fine. The next week, after gassing up, the car again would not start. It made the same sound, like the engine was trying to turn over or it wasn't accessing the fuel. A bystander thought perhaps it was the oxygen sensor.
After resting for about 10 minutes, the car started and I drove it to a Hyundai dealership. They said the fuel pump needed to be replaced. It seemed fine after the replacement. A week later, the same thing happened. The car would not start. Not after 10 minutes, not after 30. AAA again was called and after I told them about the fuel pump they thought perhaps the relay was bad. They swapped the relay with one I wasn't using and the car started.
I, again, brought the car to the dealer. They inspected the whole car. There were no codes when they hooked it up to the computer and it drove just fine. They simply replaced the relay. Last night, the car made a funny sound upon starting, almost like a hissing or light clunking. This morning the car started fine. I drove for about 5 minutes and then the car stopped accelerating and the power steering seemed off. The car then died and would not start. I was in the middle of an intersection.
After about 15 minutes the cops came and pushed my car while I was in neutral. A few minutes later the car still would not start and it was towed back to the dealer. The car has been with the dealer for over 3 hours. They have driven it, tested it, driven it, tested it while driving. Everything. And they can't replicate the problem.
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My wife has a 2004 Hyundai Accent. This morning when she tried to leave for work only one wheel spun, the other dragged behind. What's going on? Brakes, CV joint, transmission?
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The Accent is a 2004 and it belonged to my parents. It is a 5 speed manual trans. and has about 100K. It runs fine except when stopped and idling it stalls. It starts right up again, but stalls every time it idles. My dad said it was something inexpensive to fix, however he could not remember what the part was.
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For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, has 167k miles on it. Transmission has 80k, put in at about 155k. Came home from Tahoe, and the next day, I tried to go to work, and the gear shift was stuck in first. Hadn't had the money to get anything fixed, but when I finally got it looked at, was told I needed a new clutch and possibly a new flywheel. Been cleaning it out to sell, and today I started it up and realized that the stick is in neutral and moves back and forth freely, but the transmission is in gear. I know that, because I had to keep my foot on the clutch to keep it running. What would cause that? I'm hoping it's something easy and cheaper to fix, because I love this car and am not ready to part with it just yet. The clutch doesn't have that many miles on it either, maybe 10-15k, if that. I've had the car for almost ten years, so it's not poor driving, on my part.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
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I have a 2004 Venture with 86K. I got into it yesterday to go to the store and it started fine when I went to leave it was hard to start and would not idle. At that point I noticed a smelly exhaust and the smell of gas. After I got it to start I took it for a quick run down the street It performed fine under hard throttle however when I got back in the driveway It started sputtering again and eventually died. I did a diagnostic test and came up with P0300.
I am not sure where to start with this code. I looked at the plugs and they were black and measured .060 (irid.. plugs). So now I am thinking perhaps the cat is now clogged up or the EGR or the fuel reg or the coil pack etc....
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
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Got 2004 v10 and my truck shifts hard into 2nd gear when starting off slow. If I take off at a faster pace it does not do it.
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