My wife has a 2004 Hyundai Accent. This morning when she tried to leave for work only one wheel spun, the other dragged behind. What's going on? Brakes, CV joint, transmission?
View 14 RepliesWhen in reverse going uphill on my snow covered driveway (backing in), I noticed that the two front wheels spun, but only the passenger side rear wheel spun. The evidence was that the car did not move up the hill and the tires made ice patches where the three wheels spun. Is this normal?
Car: 2004 R32
2003 Hyundai Accent. I will try to give a good description of the issue. Wheel was shaking (or was noticeable) at about 60 mph. Lessened after that but still bad. I had my tires changed and balanced as well as an alignment. My rear right toe is still off a bit. Now, the shaking is noticeable at 68-70 mph and higher. Pedal shakes, wheel shakes. I can feel some vibration all over including the seat, gas pedal and wheel the most. Wheel not jerking, just vibrating mildly.
It is not quite as bad as before and does not happen until 68-70, 10 mph higher than before the tire change/balance. I have put my back wheels on the front and it is the exact same condition - this would remove tire and balance as the culprit (?). I also hear an audible hum.. kind of a pulsing sound at 50 mph+. This speeds up and slows down with my speed. For instance if I am going 70.. I hear it every half second, 50 mph I hear it less often. It is pretty faint, not a thump. It seems to be coming from the front but I can't pin-point it. I feel no tire play up/down/side/side.
What is the next step here? I'm going to get the rear toe fixed but this shouldn't be the cause of the pulse/wheel + pedal vibration. Vibration/sound doesn't happen when I am braking. No rubbing shield behind rotor.
I've had my 2010 Prius for about 3.5 years now and this is the 3rd maybe 4th time happening. This morning I started the car and the car started to vibrate/rattle from the engine bay. It almost sounded like the wheel of fortune being spun but louder.
View 5 RepliesI own an automatic transmission 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 180,000 miles. I bought it brand new, but it seems to be having trouble shifting into the right gear. Many transmission "specialists" keep telling me they can't figure out what is wrong, aside from offering to completely rebuild my transmission. The car has the following symptoms:
1. At a stop sign or red light, my car doesn't always begin idling properly. Sometimes it just won't go anywhere at all, even with the motor running.
2. As I drive down the highway, it acts like it jumps into a higher gear for no reason. It sometimes resets itself with no action on my part.
3. The car jerks back and forth, not seemingly due to shifting into gear, but randomly.
4. The check engine light does not come on often, but by the time I can use a DTC reader, the light goes off.
Everything seems to be intermittent, so I can't replicate the problem on-demand for anyone who wants to inspect the problems. Is there anything I can do? Is there an easy way to figure out what's really going on? I'm assuming this is transmission-related...
About 6 weeks ago, I started my car and it started, but when it did it shook really hard until I turned the engine off. I started it again a few minutes later, and it started just fine; it was a little rough at first, but smoothed out after about 15 seconds. I drove it without any further issue until about 3 weeks ago. It cranked and shook like hell again, without starting. A few minutes later, I tried again, and it started up smoothly. A week ago, I got in the car to come back from the store, and it cranked, didn't shake, but wouldn't start. When the tow truck guy told me my overage for a tow was going to be 105.00 for 12 miles, I told him he was insane and cancelled my tow and then magically, my car started up. I figured it's a fuel or spark problem, and changed the plugs and wires since it's about time to do that anyway. A few days go by, damn car won't start again.
So this is the pattern: Car starts and runs totally fine, except occasionally when it doesn't want to start and only cranks and shakes, and then you leave it alone for a random amount of time (from 5 minutes to a half hour), and it eventually starts. I thought it was only when it was at 1/4 tank or below and was thinking maybe the fuel pump, but today I have 2/3 of a tank and it happened again. Check engine light is only on when it won't start, when it starts up fine the light is off. It's happening more frequently now and I can't afford to keep swapping parts only to find out it's not fixed, so I need to get it figured out. 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6L....
The Accent is a 2004 and it belonged to my parents. It is a 5 speed manual trans. and has about 100K. It runs fine except when stopped and idling it stalls. It starts right up again, but stalls every time it idles. My dad said it was something inexpensive to fix, however he could not remember what the part was.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, has 167k miles on it. Transmission has 80k, put in at about 155k. Came home from Tahoe, and the next day, I tried to go to work, and the gear shift was stuck in first. Hadn't had the money to get anything fixed, but when I finally got it looked at, was told I needed a new clutch and possibly a new flywheel. Been cleaning it out to sell, and today I started it up and realized that the stick is in neutral and moves back and forth freely, but the transmission is in gear. I know that, because I had to keep my foot on the clutch to keep it running. What would cause that? I'm hoping it's something easy and cheaper to fix, because I love this car and am not ready to part with it just yet. The clutch doesn't have that many miles on it either, maybe 10-15k, if that. I've had the car for almost ten years, so it's not poor driving, on my part.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
View 5 RepliesHere is my situation. I have a 2004 Hyundai Elentra. When I turn the wheel to the right or left 75% of the time the engine moves and there is a grinding or clunking noise. It only happens when the car is in drive or reverse and the brake pedal is pressed down. So it starts that shaking when the wheel hits the 10 or 2 spot on the wheel. It doesn't happen with it is in park. The other day I slammed on the breaks at a stop and burned rubber. I also hit a curb on the right that day.
I had a suspension guy I know take a quick look and he says there is a lot of engine movement and thinks I should try changing the torque mount whatever that is. He thinks when I slammed on the breaks it moved the engine. But why would it grind when the break is pressed and the wheel is turned? does this sound like a mount issue or like a break issue? The back breaks have a squeak but that was happening before this happened. Online everyone talks about cv joints and how dangerous it is to drive on bad ones. Starting a new job this week and want to make sure it will make the drive and that it doesn't sound like a cv joint or something serious.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
The plastic shield under the engine has fell down and dragged while driving. I have put it back up with zip ties and i seem to be getting worse gas mileage now since air is catching?? Is it ok just to remove this guard?
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. It's the second time the car does that, I'm driving for a good 5 minutes and I just do a normal stop at a red light and when I try to speed up doesn't go upper then 3000 rpm, I try the 1st gear, 2sd gear,.... until the 6th one and also the neutral... no more then 3000 rpm... Try to turn off the car , turn it back on , same thing. I don't have the engine light on. The fastest i can go it's 85KM maybe 90KM down a hill...:P On 5th Gear.
This time I took a video of it I will upload it today or tomorrow.
Last time i just leave the car in the parking lot the morning after everything was great I went to the dealership and he basicly told me "no engine light, no problem". It's a 6 speed manual and the GL 2012. A brand new car .... I was hopping a bit more from it.... What could be the problem?
About 5 weeks ago my 2008 Hyundai accent's check engine light came on. It came on right after I filled up a tank of gas and started running a bit rough. About a year ago the same thing happened, and it turned out to have been because of some bad gas (I ran the tank down, refilled and everything went back to normal). I assumed that was the same thing this time because the gas was from the same location and the problems started right after the fill-up.
I drove it for about a week and then it stalled out completely. Rpm wouldn't go over about 2,000 and if I tried to drive I wouldn't go over about 10mph. I took it into the local shop. Replaced all kinds of fuel sensors, spark plug coils, and the main computer, and I think the fuel pump (all of which got fried). The error codes are all fixed and the car idles just fine. Only problem, when you put it in gear to drive it almost immediately bogs down, rpm stays below 2k (still) and eventually it will totally stall out.
The shop is now saying they think it's the catalytic converter - but they aren't sure. The car idles smoothly now, no error codes. But as soon as you try to drive it barely moves. It feels like there's a governor on the engine or like there's not enough fuel getting through. What to try next.
1999 ford f150 makes a fluttering spun when I accelerate.
View 2 RepliesAfter a long drive in Arizona heat, my Hyundai Accent won't restart after refueling! Never happened until last Sat., then Fri., then Sunday. Ck eng light, so Mechanic ck'd it, but no codes...Car is '07 with 125K
View 4 RepliesI own a Hyundai Accent 2013, and need to turn off eco mode . It's a beep noise which occurs when my car raises 40 km/h, 60 km/h , 80 km/h and so on.
View 4 RepliesAlright, well I have recently purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5l SOHC, automatic. 117k miles. The problem is, it won't shift into overdrive. It appears that the overdrive button works, as the dashboard light turns on and off, but pressing the button has no effect on the transmission, as it still doesn't go into 4th gear. It's 3rd gear all the way down the freeway, which really limits me to cruising at like 60 mph. What this could be? The fluid seems alright, and there's enough I believe.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1999 Hyundai Accent manual transmission. It's been a great car but over the past few months there is a problem that the mechanics can't figure out. The car is fine driving initially. Once it's warmed up, parked for about an hour, and started up again, it bucks every time I ease up on the gas. It seems to be worse at slow speeds - 30 or under - but still occurs at higher speeds.
View 2 RepliesI thought it was the power steering pump & replaced it and still get the noise. A friend did squirt belt dressing on the belt while running and the sound disappeared for a short period of time, so now my guess is its the belt which is not loose, I went and loosened the four bolts on the power steering pump trying to move it thinking there was a crooked connection between the two pulleys maybe, but no. I start up my car and get a squeal that wiould wake the dead for a minute or two, then all is fine driving. If I drive to the store shut it off for 10 minutes usually starts w/ no noise, looks like I made a charitable donation on the new pump,...also the the power steering fluid is correct
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