Hyundai - Accent :: 2003 - Transmission Malfunction - Have No Gears At All
Jun 1, 2013
I have a 2003 Hyundai accent that was not shifting into higher gears about (45 mph) max speed. I took a transmission out of a 2005 ( same engine bad unibody) and put in the 2003. Making sure the torque converter was in all the way. Now I have no gears at all, no park, nothing. But the car does start. I went to the salvage yard and noticed that all the cars like it (hyundai) had no park either. So I must be missing something electrical right?
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Ok let's start I have a 1999 f350 7.3 4x4 Work Model that I'm have some odd transmission problems. I drove it 20 mins to do a 2hr job no problems finished that got in took off I few seconds down the road it was like the tranny just dropped out no sound just reved no gears at all. So I shut it down tried to start again would not start in park without pulling up on the lever which had experienced here and there for a good while. So got it started went in gear took off same thing went popped out no gears. I started it again this time used reverse same thing as drive so got it where I knew I could leave it but now it would not start in park anymore at all. Next day picked up a neutral saftey switch changed it now it starts in park every time but still starts going looses the gear then have no gears shut it down sometimes had to wait a few then again same issue.
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I had been waiting to fix my explorer for a long time. The "previous owner" I will call him knowingly sold me a vehicle with a bad tranny without disclosing it... long story. To get to the important part, it had the common 2/3 shift flare. I dropped the pan, filter, and valve body, making sure to use a template and put the bolts where they go. Then i took the valve body to the work bench and replaced the gasket, which was surprisingly not blown. After more looking around, I realized the previous owner had already had the fix done. I tightened the EPC 1/4 turn and reassembled the tranny. When i started it, it was stuck in first gear. PRN21 all went forward (park just revved a bit due to the park lockout.)
I tore it back apart and found that the plunger on the side of the valve body was stuck in the 1st gear position. I pushed it back out and cleaned it up so it moved freely. Then I reassembled the tranny using new fluid again.
After that the tranny was stuck in neutral. I dropped the pan again today, and tightened the valve body bolts and made sure my solenoids are tight. Filled it back up slowly with the engine running. It shifted into gear for a second (tried to go forward while it was in reverse though). Then it was again stuck in neutral in all the gears again.
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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own a 2005 Hyundai accent 1.6L engine. I replace the engine today. The previous engine had internal damage. The transmission I left alone. I didn't disconnect the wiring. I only removed the engine. The transmission worked flawless. When I turned on the car the engine sounds great and the transmission sshifted gears and the wheels were moving. The speedometer worked so then I turned the engine off and lowered the car down from the Jack stands and tired it shine but this time the transmission did not shift gears. I lifted the car back up and did still did not shift gears. The transmission does nothing. The checked the guild level and it's full. What can cause a transmission to suddenly stopped engaging gear?
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My friend has a 2007 accent with a manual transmission they said that they were driving and the transmission stopped shifting gears. The clutch pedal still has pressure so I don't think it is a master or slave cylinder issue. They freaked out and turned off the car and now the car will not start up again. Have any of you experienced anything like this before or know on this car where to start looking? I think the issue with not being able to switch gears could be a pressure plate issue but this would not cause the car not to start.
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My 2000 Hyundai Accent, and it has started shifting gears when not traveling at the right speeds to do so.
I'll try to describe it the best I can, When driving I will be going whatever speed limit and all of the sudden it will make a winding noise (like when jumping on highway and pressing hard on gas peddle) and the RPMs will stall. It is like when shifting up, the car drives as normal but then it will shift down and pulls back (making a winding sound)
I am not sure what to do, I was told it seems like it may be the transmission is shot(I had the fluid flushed previously) and that it could cost over $1000 to get it replaced.
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I don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
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2002 Hyundai Accent with automatic transmission. This problem happens only if I floor the gas gas on the highway (trying to pass somebody or get out of the way in a hurry) or if I apply too much gas after coasting around a sharp turn. My car will then downshift with a jerk and an audible THUNK!. Right now I just avoid those situations and it shifts through all its gears fine, it only happens when I cause a sudden downshift. Transmission fluid level and color fine.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, has 167k miles on it. Transmission has 80k, put in at about 155k. Came home from Tahoe, and the next day, I tried to go to work, and the gear shift was stuck in first. Hadn't had the money to get anything fixed, but when I finally got it looked at, was told I needed a new clutch and possibly a new flywheel. Been cleaning it out to sell, and today I started it up and realized that the stick is in neutral and moves back and forth freely, but the transmission is in gear. I know that, because I had to keep my foot on the clutch to keep it running. What would cause that? I'm hoping it's something easy and cheaper to fix, because I love this car and am not ready to part with it just yet. The clutch doesn't have that many miles on it either, maybe 10-15k, if that. I've had the car for almost ten years, so it's not poor driving, on my part.
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Earlier this summer I bought a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 130k miles on it. Recently I have noticed a squeaking/squealing sound coming from underneath the hood. I first noticed it at traffic lights, but I have determined that it occurs whenever the clutch pedal is depressed, and continues until the clutch is released.
My first question is - is this serious? (Is it dangerous, or will it compound significantly if I do nothing?) The clutch still seems to work fine, and I can stop the noise at traffic lights etc... by putting the car into neutral and letting off the clutch.
My second question is, how did I cause this? Coasting with the clutch fully depressed, or too much downshifting?
Background: Recently, I bought a Scan Gauge to provide real-time fuel economy feedback, and began to experiment with different driving styles. I found that I could really boost my fuel economy by coasting down longer hills on the highway (when there were no other cars around). To do this I was pressing the clutch all the way to the floor, figuring it was the same as putting the car into neutral. When my speed began to decline after the hill I'd ease back into 5th. One hill in particular comes into town where there is a light. If the light turned red I would stop coasting and do some quick downshifting as well as breaking. I was pretty aggressive with the downshifting on a few occasions.
Did either the downshifting or the coasting likely contribute to my problem? If coasting was an issue, would coasting in neutral cause a similar problem?
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I have a 1997 F150 XLT V6 Speed Manual stickshift. My problem is the transmission will not go into any gears, it is in neutral.
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I know, sounds like blown head gasket. However oil looks fine, no coolant leaking and coolant looks fine. It also does not overheat (that I can see, it dies first). This all started a few weeks ago. I changed spark plugs, oil and undercoated the car with primer. I did get some paint on the radiator. I also put techron in the fuel tank and changed fuel filter. The car ran fine before, now here is what is happening step for step.
Car starts fine, idle is a bit rough (it was before too) but nothing drastic. I rev car at 2500 RPM until it is warm. The thermostat stays in the middle yet I begin to see a good amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. If I take foot off the accelerator the car will shut off at this point. If the car is not warm yet, it won't shut off. When it does shut off, I cannot restart it even with gas pedal down. It just cranks and cranks. When I let it cool down it starts up fine and the same thing occurs. I cannot tell if the radiator fans are turning on as the car dies before they turn on (it's cool outside). The thermostat never indicates overheating.
The entire radiator is smoking white (not from cap) but I assume that is from my paint overspray burning off. Could this be getting sucked in and stalling the car out when the car warms up enough to start burning off the paint? Could I have painted something inappropriate? What could this be? I know a decent amount about cars.
If I let the car warm up just by idling it will run until it gets warm then it stalls and again, won't start until it cools. It seems to keep running if I keep RPMS up but right when I take foot off accelerator when warm it shuts off.
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I recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
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2003 rav4 . Recently, my rav4 has been slipping from gears 2-3. After exhaustive research, I found out that my car is known to have a bad ecm. So I decided to get a fixed ecm and replace it in my car. Car still slips so, thinking the ecm is good, I had my transmission rebuilt. After rebuilding my transmission, it still slips from gears 2-3. Do I need to replace my ecm again to coincide with the new transmission? I'm completely at a lost.
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My truck is an XL V8. Transmission is Manual 5-Speed Mazda M5OD-R2.
I bought this truck literally two days ago. It seemed a little hard to shift, but no other problems. The truck had been sitting a short while, the guy said he took it on local trips, but nothing more. I noticed the oil and coolant levels were crazy low, so maybe it had been sitting longer or the guy was neglectful, I'm not sure...
I was driving it home and it seems like what can be described as: the gear ratio went completely out.
For example, 4th gear acted like 1st gear, 5th gear like somewhere between 1st and 2nd gear, so when I'm at 20mph, in 5th gear, the rpms are really high like im going 20mph in first gear (not 5th).
Today none of the gears engage at all... I dropped off a trailer at uhaul, and I got stuck there! (The truck is still there, I walked 4 miles home)
The shifter works fine, all gears sound like neutral (including reverse) when accelerator is pressed. Car won't move at all, nothing is engaging.
Underneath the car, there is a leak from the transmission assembly, maybe around the fill plug? It's only a small puddle. Maybe fluid, shift forks, bushes? or all?
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Ozzy is a 2003 Hyundai Accent with an automatic transmission. Over the last 2 year he has been having a lot of problems with his transmission. The first thing that was done was to replace his transmission fluid. Unfortunately the chuckle head that replaced his transmission fluid put the wrong kind in and he had to have a whole new transmission installed. And now only about a year later Ozzy is having transmission problems yet again. What is happening is that it feels like the car is struggling to shift gears and then once in gear it will suddenly accelerate.
Also, the idle races even when your foot is not on the gas pedal and yes, the check engine light is on. So, I have a couple of questions. First how much longer can she keep driving it like this before the engine falls out somewhere on the 405? Secondly how much is it going to cost to repair Ozzy? Also her driving the car when it is behaving this way is really dangerous, right? Because it felt pretty scary today when I was sitting in the passenger's seat and we were doing 75 on the freeway and Ozzy was shaking and making all sorts a noise. And lastly, she needs a new mechanic right, there is no way she should keep going to these guys that put the wrong fluid in and then replaced her transmission, right?
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4 cylinder Sonata with 177k miles on it. When I first get in the car and drive away the transmission doesn't want to shift up. I have a manu matic type shifter so I usually just shift up as the RPMS reach the normal shift point. Eventually the transmission starts working but sometimes it acts up and I'm back to shifting myself. Sometimes it shifts hard or double shifts. I'm getting conflicting info from different mechanics. Some say change the transmission fluid and that should fix it. Others say don't because it could open up a bigger can of worms and I will be buying a new transmission shortly after. What should I do?? I can't afford a new car nor can I afford to buy a new transmission.
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The truck is a 2002 f150 4x4 5.4l... I was driving down the free way last night in 2wd doing about 90kpm when there was a loud bang like a ran over something. Speedo went to zero and abs light came on. Pulled over and shut it down. Crawled underneath to check so damage and couldn't see anything. Stared it back up put it in drive and it just revs. No forward gears or reverse. Fluid level is good, bright pink. Dropped the transmission pan, pan is clean and magnet has next to nothing on it.
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I have a F150, 2nd 4.6, 122,000 miles. No forward gears. When put in drive, you can feel it trying to engage, but doesn't engage completely. Reverse is a solid engagement. Replaced filter and fluid, same issue.
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2003 Explorer with a slipping transmission...codes are P0731, P0732, P0733... Just had a new solenoid pack installed last week when O/D light came on and truck was clunking into reverse. Now, after new pack was installed the forward gears are slipping all over the place!
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