2000 Hyundai Accent with 180K. Runs and idles smoothly. When sitting for a few minutes at idle I get a waft of smoke when I accelerate. The car burns minimal ammount of oil and the smoke is not apparent while driving.
View 4 RepliesI know, sounds like blown head gasket. However oil looks fine, no coolant leaking and coolant looks fine. It also does not overheat (that I can see, it dies first). This all started a few weeks ago. I changed spark plugs, oil and undercoated the car with primer. I did get some paint on the radiator. I also put techron in the fuel tank and changed fuel filter. The car ran fine before, now here is what is happening step for step.
Car starts fine, idle is a bit rough (it was before too) but nothing drastic. I rev car at 2500 RPM until it is warm. The thermostat stays in the middle yet I begin to see a good amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. If I take foot off the accelerator the car will shut off at this point. If the car is not warm yet, it won't shut off. When it does shut off, I cannot restart it even with gas pedal down. It just cranks and cranks. When I let it cool down it starts up fine and the same thing occurs. I cannot tell if the radiator fans are turning on as the car dies before they turn on (it's cool outside). The thermostat never indicates overheating.
The entire radiator is smoking white (not from cap) but I assume that is from my paint overspray burning off. Could this be getting sucked in and stalling the car out when the car warms up enough to start burning off the paint? Could I have painted something inappropriate? What could this be? I know a decent amount about cars.
If I let the car warm up just by idling it will run until it gets warm then it stalls and again, won't start until it cools. It seems to keep running if I keep RPMS up but right when I take foot off accelerator when warm it shuts off.
I recently bought a accent, changed the oil then upon starting it back up it just pours out white smoke from the exhaust. i might have put a little too much oil in, would that cause the issue? It didn't happen before the oil change either.
View 6 Replies2004 hyndia accent . Car starts drinking up oil like crazy, no smoke no leaks.
I added some oil one day, started to stall out. I had to jump start it. Ran for 5 minutes fine then huge white smelly smoke from exhaust. I haven't tried to start it since.
Car died at idle on park. Tried to start it back up and was only getting crank. I took it to a local mech and he said my timing belt failed. I paid for the repair and the car still wouldn't start. The shop said the ecu went out. I replaced the cam position sensor and main relay under the dash. Still not getting it to start. I also have a ecu from an 05 accent, would this be plug and play? What else can I do?
View 3 RepliesI was driving down a 2 lane road doing the speed limit and I found myself behind a car going much slower than the limit. It is one of those roads where every once in awhile the double yellow line is dotted so you can pass.
I finally got to the point where I could pass as there was no oncoming traffic, so I turned left to pass the guy, floored it, the tranny started to kick down into passing gear and then the car sputtered, didn't accelerate and blew out a huge white cloud from the exhaust and the cel light flashed on and off. The cloud was something like you would see in a James Bond film to get rid of cars following you. All of the cars behind me had to stop or slow up because you couldn't see. I didn't realize that until I looked in the rear view mirror. I thought the car just sputtered, I didn't even realize about the cloud until I looked back.
Whenever I accelerate I hear a metal clanking noise as if there was something stuck underneath the front of the vehicle. I pulled over and checked the undercarriage and did not see anything and then checked under the hood. My coolant was extremely low and the oil was in a normal range. What could be the cause of this metal clanking noise whenever I accelerate. Also I have white smoke coming from exhaust when I accelerate as well.
View 2 RepliesI'm pretty sure I have a blown head gasket. I have white smoke coming out of exhaust and the oil is brownish in color indicating radiator fluid is leaking into engine. The car has over 200K on it. I purchased Steel Seal. The guy I talked to from Steel Seal said if radiator fluid is dirty (which it is)than I should flush radiator before using product. I don't have money to replace the gasket and I don't have money for a new car right now. Can this be a fix that gets me through a couple months?
View 3 RepliesI have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesOzzy is a 2003 Hyundai Accent with an automatic transmission. Over the last 2 year he has been having a lot of problems with his transmission. The first thing that was done was to replace his transmission fluid. Unfortunately the chuckle head that replaced his transmission fluid put the wrong kind in and he had to have a whole new transmission installed. And now only about a year later Ozzy is having transmission problems yet again. What is happening is that it feels like the car is struggling to shift gears and then once in gear it will suddenly accelerate.
Also, the idle races even when your foot is not on the gas pedal and yes, the check engine light is on. So, I have a couple of questions. First how much longer can she keep driving it like this before the engine falls out somewhere on the 405? Secondly how much is it going to cost to repair Ozzy? Also her driving the car when it is behaving this way is really dangerous, right? Because it felt pretty scary today when I was sitting in the passenger's seat and we were doing 75 on the freeway and Ozzy was shaking and making all sorts a noise. And lastly, she needs a new mechanic right, there is no way she should keep going to these guys that put the wrong fluid in and then replaced her transmission, right?
I have a mysterious exhaust issue on my 1991 Montero. After the engine warms up and I have been stopped at a red light for a minute or so when I accelerate away from the light a cloud of blue (I assume oil) smoke puffs out of the exhaust pipe. If I sit in the vehicle with it idling for, say, 5 minutes then the cloud of blue smoke can last all the way down the block. Then it goes away. Spark plugs are all clean. PCV valve recently replaced. Mo warning lights. What can this be?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 hyundai accent, 62000 miles. When I accelerate there is a vibrating/rattling noise that sounds like it's in the back left side. It only happens sometimes. It happens when i accelerate slowly or up a hill, and if i press on the gas it stops. I thought it was the muffler, but I got the car inspected in May and it was fine. It's been doing it since before then. My dad said it might be a loose heat shield vibrating. It seems to be getting more frequent with humid weather. Should I be worried?
View 3 RepliesAlright, well I have recently purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5l SOHC, automatic. 117k miles. The problem is, it won't shift into overdrive. It appears that the overdrive button works, as the dashboard light turns on and off, but pressing the button has no effect on the transmission, as it still doesn't go into 4th gear. It's 3rd gear all the way down the freeway, which really limits me to cruising at like 60 mph. What this could be? The fluid seems alright, and there's enough I believe.
View 19 RepliesMy 2000 Hyundai Accent has no power to anything. I checked the battery and it is good. I cleaned the terminals
View 4 RepliesThe problem started when my clutch fluid began leaking a couple of months ago. I first noticed that it would take an unusual amount of effort to shift into gear and, after checking, found the clutch fluid completely gone and I filled it up immediately. Three weeks later, the fluid was gone again, so I took it in to a reputable mechanic, who said I needed my slave cylinder replaced. A week after replacement, I start to notice that my car increasingly had trouble "catching" into gear (my engine was accelerating, but not moving very fast; soft clutch). I thought maybe something went wrong with the slave cylinder repair and took it back to the same place, but the news came back that I needed a new clutch.
At 143,000 miles on the original clutch, I wasn't surprised it was time for a new one. Immediately after picking up my car with the new clutch--and by immediate, I mean right after I pulled out of the mechanic's parking lot--I noticed my car was driving horribly. The engine was idling extremely rough and it felt gritty when pressing the gas pedal during acceleration. I took it back to my mechanic the next morning to explain the problem, but they treated me like I was an idiot, didn't detect anything wrong with my car, and clearly didn't know what I was talking about even though I personally showed them my steering was shaking pretty badly while idling.
A few more days of the rough idle/gritty acceleration and I went back, but they just suggested getting my fuel injection system cleaned. I personally checked to make sure that the wires in my car were connected properly, as well as making sure the hose connecting to the air filter was on there correctly. Today on a whim, I took my car to Autozone to have them check the computer, even though I don't have a check engine light on, and sure enough the only code read was P0302--Cylinder 2 misfire.
My question is, what is the most likely cause of the cylinder 2 misfire (given my car's very recent history) and most importantly, could the mechanic have caused the problem I am experiencing? How should I handle this situation with them from here? I will no longer be using their services after I get this problem sorted out, as I feel like my car did not receive the best service.
Have a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
I'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
I have a 00 dodge caravan. Has always been a good van. Recently when I start it up first thing in the morning there is a puff of blue smoke come out of the exhaust. This will not show up again if you start the van up wth in an hour or so. If you leave it for 3 or more hours you will get a puff of blue smoke but not as much as the one after it has sat all night. What this might be????
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 subaru impreza outback. It is now dead. Billowing white smoke, coolant coming out of the tailpipe, terrible rocky idle and some smoke coming from the exhaust at the manifold. (assuming it cracked from the harsh idle) I'm pretty good with cars but I've never taken on a head gasket problem myself. I have time to fix it, I just don't really know if it will be worth it. Should i just replace the motor w/ a scrapyard motor? Should I take this opportunity to rebuild and upgrade? I have a crappy chevy to get me around in the meantime. Should I give it a try or just scrap it. I paid 800 bucks for this car and it has 220k miles. No major problems until now. New alt a few months back. Previous two(only two) didn't have any problems at all. I feel like it would be worth it.
View 17 Replies1993 3.0 .... My son's van. He complained of fluctuating and mostly high idle, black smoke from exhaust and stalling at stoplights. He has other wheels so I've had it for several months until I could check it.
I started it every few weeks, it started easily. Have not seen smoke but it did idle high and rough. Yesterday I started it to warm it up to finally pull codes. Temp needle barely moved and upper radiator hose did not get very warm but I pulled codes with engine off anyway and got 116, 10, 111.
Today i got a little smarter and noted that the upper hose began to get warm right after startup. Suspecting a bad thermostat I blocked the radiator as well as I could and it warmed up much more, though still not near the middle of the temp gauge. Shut engine off and pulled codes again and this time got 111,10, 111.
With engine running, got 6, only-- and there's no code 6 in the code reader book. Jabbing gas pedal in neutral it nearly dies, jabbing gas in D and it dies and will not restart until cooled down.
Finally, checked again with engine off and got 111, 10, 110, 10. I think the ETC is OK since I didn't get 116 again but it still idles fast, speeds up and down erratically, and dies. Where do I go from here?
My 2005 1.6 is losing power now and then when I accelerate. gas mileage is getting worse. I don't want to replace any unnecessary parts. wires and plugs look good.. Codes 300, 301, 302, 303 ..
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