Engine hesitates and stays at 500 RPM for a few seconds while trying to accelerat after slowdown at intersections. This is a brand new Hyundai Santa Fe se with less than 500 miles.
View 6 RepliesI love my 01 Elantra great gas mileage and it just zips around with no problems. Recently had an issue where i was depressing the gas pedal but it just decelerated and never was able to get above about 20mph. I pulled over, tapped on a few parts in the engine and restarted the car... the problem went away. It has some hesitaion when I accelerate. The check engine does not come on ever not even when I start the car . . . What the problem might be ? MAF, modules, ECM.... ?
View 1 RepliesI recently bought a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with about 65k miles. In the past few months I've noticed that it likes to sputter and hesitate at times, mostly in lower gears when I'm not accelerating hard. At highway speeds it's mostly fine. It's also fairly random - some days it's really bad and others it's fine. Also seems worse when in reverse. I don't think the plugs have been changed so that's one idea, but I'm wondering if it's a bad fuel filter, exhaust manifold leak or something else. It's not throwing any codes (and yes the light works) and it has never stalled completely out.
View 4 RepliesWhenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate—it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting—at which time it acts normally. The braking system is fine.
View 4 RepliesAfter about a 5 mile drive my '05 6 cyl Santa Fe always smells hot. The temp gauge needle always stays mid point. Coolant is good and is changed regularly. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil. No cracks in recovery bottle or hoses. All hoses tight, has been pressure tested and is ok. No heater core leak, no visible leaks anywhere in the engine compartment or under the car and no green patches on the radiator. After about a week of driving the recovery bottle level is down about 3/4" but the radiator is full to the neck. Where the coolant is going and how to locate the source?
View 5 RepliesThe issue: Check engine light on. Codes pulled, and he's getting O2 sensor codes (aftermarket exhaust has caused that since he bought the car) and 17705 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve. The car barely accelerates, and you can hear the turbo spooling, and the engine has small surges. I had VCDS going and went for a drive and noticed his N75 Valve duty cycle was stuck at 5.1% no matter what throttle position he was in. So we're going to the wreckers this afternoon and will pull an N75 valve? The DV is stock and appears to be in good condition, but if changing the N75 doesn't work then that's the next spot I'll look.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2012 Prius v. It has intermittent, minor to serious problems that have not been detected by the computer. These include, when engine is READY, it won't recognize Drive. When in Drive is moves in Reverse, has locked keys in the car and does not always recognize key. The Cruise Control sometimes accelerates the vehicle on its own.
The Braking option doesn't always work properly. When touching the brakes the lights turn off. Sometimes when turning the lights on or off, the radio turns off. A new problem is that the brakes almost fail to engage, then, at the last minute they do. Toyota has sent a regional rep to take a test drive with computer diagnostics and found nothing. So, they won't do anything. These problems have occurred since I purchased the vehicle.
I have suggested that they trade cars with me while someone else drives it until they experience these events (actually the very first event was seen by a service person but that doesn't count, apparently); change computers; reprogram the computer. They won't do any of these things. It seems that if it doesn't show up on the computer when they are looking at it they won't do anything. There can be a long time between events and the events sometimes occur in clusters.
I have a 1997 F350 5.8 2wd dually with 110,000 miles. Lately the automatic transmission has been acting funny. If I'm cruising along, sometimes the drive gear isn't there. The engine accelerates, but the transmission doesn't respond. If I downshift, I have the lower gears. Sometimes, if I shift into 2nd and then back into drive, it's fine.
Other times when this occurs is when I'm cruising along in Drive and hit a bump, I suddenly get nothing and have to downshift. Sometimes drive gear will re-engage if I stop and put the transmission in park and then into drive.
Today, I was at a hardware store and when I came back out, my truck had moved about 10ft. The Transmission was in park and the truck was on a flat surface. The parking lot had a slight drain slope to it, but nothing steep at all. The gear selector still indicated Park, but when I turned the key, I had nothing. I bumped the shift lever up further and the truck started.
Just wondering if my transmission is slipping or if its a linkage problem. Any clues?
While driving, I noticed that when I floor the gas pedal to go faster, the engine revs up and takes about a second or 2 until the car accelerates. i also noticed that if i let go of the gas pedal while the engine revs then the car doesn't go any faster, it just revs then goes back to normal. Whats going on?
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
My wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
View 11 RepliesMy fathers truck starts, runs, idles fine but once on the highway at constant speed, the engine misfires or hesitates causing a small buck or jerk but continues on down the road. The SES light is on. He took it to O'Reilly and they put some kind of computer on it and (I think) it said misfire in a cylinder. He replaced one of four O2 sensors, pickup in the distributor (not sure what this is called), wires, and plugs with no cure. This problem is very strange as again, it only does it a constant speed; truck runs fine at idle, acceleration, deceleration, startup, etc. There may be a slight sulfur smell during idle and there is a decrease in gas mileage.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Subaru Forester, bought from a dealer with 7,000 miles on it in 2007. I religiously had the oil changed every 5,000 miles and had other recommended work done. At 90,000 miles I did not have the work done immediately, but waited until 92,000 miles. My car then ran out of oil, with no smoking, no oil in the driveway, no warning light, so I believe the dealers didn't fill the oil at 85,000 miles. But that's not why I'm writing. I had a remanufactured short block assembly installed and the other work done at the dealer to the tune of over $6000.
Now that I have my car back it hesitates at least once a day, sometimes several times, sometimes several times in a row. It hesitates at about 20 miles per hour, when the gears are changing. Of course, it didn't hesitate when they checked it and their computer says "nothing's wrong". In addition, there was a tapping sound in the engine. Again "nothing's wrong". When I had my car smogged, the smog tech said "OMG, you have a problem with your valves." I took it to the dealer and they then admitted I had a problem with my valves (or lifters) and they fixed it. The hesitation continues. What could be causing the hesitation? They're not smart enough nor do they care enough to figure out what it is.
MY 2011 Sonata has 84K miles. Last couple of months, I've noticed it engine jerks / hesitates / stalls when going from 40 mph to 60 mph. Once it reaches 60 mph I can go 70mph or higher without any problem. I've made several visits to dealership without any success. First, they diagnosed as bad oxygen sensor and bad spark plugs. The problem did not go away after replacing both. According to them it does not give any error code. Now they're asking to perform fuel cleaning service. I feel they're shooting in the dark. Does it sounds like problem with the automatic transmission i.e problem shifting into higher gear.
View 18 Replies2006 gs 300. Been driving car around and the 3 lights came on which are vsc, Trac and check engine light all at the same time. Replaced the 2 front O2 sensors but the light keeps coming on and off. When I drive the car the car hesitates to go over 25 mph.
View 14 RepliesFor the last 2 months I have been having an issue with my 2007 Passat when speeding up BUT only up hills. I have brought it to the dealer over a month ago when it was really bad on highways and it barely speed up to 60mph. So I went and got new 4 brand new tires with an alignment. Problem was still there but def. improved the, I guess I really needed new tires! But the hesitation still there, so I went again to VW and they didn't get no error or fail messages when they test drove it.
But I knew my car did not sound like that 3 months ago. So I brought it again and went with them for a test drive and the mechanic felt the hick up speeding up at 60-70 mph as well, you could even see it on the speedometer that it set back for a sec. when accelerating at 60mph but after 70 and 80mph it is riding smooth. VW mechanic only saw a high air intake when it happens and believed it was the engine speed sensor that was failing.
Yesterday I went to the VW dealer for the 5th time and they have it again all day, test drive it and now they say yes it is still doing it. Diag. laptop still shows no signs or fails. BTW, I don't have any start misfires like usually carbon build up cars get!! I did my research online but I see no other Passat's doing that kind of thing. I just don't want to continue driving it and one day my engine just cuts off...The car is balanced and just got aligned, and my steering wheel is not shaking while it happens either. I feel a little hick up from the floor/gas pedal.
Recently I've noticed that when I take my car up to highway speeds- 55 MPH or higher- the engine feels as though it hesitates- I don't actually slow down, but I have trouble accelerating beyond where it starts to lag. It's like an imaginary bump my car is going over where the engine isn't fully accelerating. Happens for a second, then goes away, but lately it's happening often- several times in a row- it just feels laggy, sometimes continuously, and i've got a bad feeling about it.Tires and brakes are completely new (Nov 2011, calipers, rotors, and pads replaced), oil level is checked weekly and has been fine lately. ~200k miles. It's a manual/ 4spd, I don't know if this is clutch/ transmission slippage, or if I have a piston misfiring, OR if maybe it's a fuel injection problem,,,,
View 9 RepliesI just got my new 2013 Persona Prius on Saturday. I haven't put too many miles on it (under 200) but I'm noticed that a feel a stuttering or hesitation when I reach highway speeds. Typically about 65 -70mph. I can't think of a better way to describe this but it feels like the when driving a manual transmission, when you need to shift to the high gear? That kind of stuttering feeling. I'm sure that it's not the same problem but it feels like that. Once I go faster, the feeling stops. Or slower. But going between 65 to 70, it's the same feeling.
View 2 RepliesProblem: engine surging/hesitation, from idle to highway speeds. It will start and run fine, just hesitates/surges when gas is applied.
Before I pulled the codes, I tried seafoam in the gas tank, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, checked air filter, changed fuel filter, pulled/cleaned plugs, nothing worked.
Then today I finally used a scanner and pulled codes (my CEL doesn't work) and I got 157 and 158 MAF sensor fault, high and low voltage. I am reading about 6v on the C and D terminals of the MAF, I know that is much higher than normal, but what does that tell me? Why both high and low voltage readings? Just a bad sensor, or wherever that voltage comes from, ECM?
I also pulled 189 HEGO H02S sensor fault, unable to switch/lean during part throttle. What does that mean, just a bad O2 sensor?
Last I pulled a 542, fuel pump secondary circuit fault. Does that mean the fuel pump is bad or going bad?
More importantly, what should I troubleshoot first, would any of these codes cause my problem?
I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
View 1 Replies07 Dodge Caliber 75K cvt 4cyl been to the dealer 3 times already, started with a single knock when turning the wheel to left or right if the car is not moving, they changed tie rods, struts and steering gear. Now the engine hesitates when the car is not moving and while turning the wheel to right or left. Im tired of taking it to the dealer cause they take 4 days to fix anything..
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