Hybrid-repair - Ford - Escape :: 2005 - Stalling When Slow Down To A Stop After Driving At Semi-highway Speeds
Mar 9, 2011
My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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I have a 2005 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6 which I bought 6 weeks ago. It has 103,000 miles on the clock. I mainly use it for going to school and getting around town etc but on Sunday I had to take my parents back. It's a round trip of 230 miles. Weather was sunny. Traffic on the Expressway so a lot of slowing down, stopping, setting off cycles but no issues. On the way home, about two toll plazas from my exit on the I90, I noticed that the engine sounded and felt like I was driving in a higher gear than that required for the speed I was doing (5 mph). It's an automatic (which I'm not used to as I've always driven manual) so I don't make any gear changes but if I'd been in a manual, it felt like I was in 2nd when I should have been in 1st. Does that make sense?
Anyhow, so I managed not to stall at the toll plazas but when I exited, the engine stalled 3 times (twice at intersections and finally when I pulled up outside my house). There is no problem starting the car after this has happened. I called my local autoshop who said to bring it in Tuesday so I didn't drive it Monday. Tuesday morning, it felt exactly the same when I was slowing down for traffic, intersections, turnings etc. The autoshop had it 3 days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. There is no data stored on the computer to show any of this happened and it has driven fine for them when they've taken it out. Beyond frustrated! I know what I heard and felt. Someone mentioned the overdrive staying on but I don't know what that means.
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I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with the V-8 Hemi and after re-fueling the car will die if driving slow or try to die if driving at highway speeds. This only last about 5 minutes if driving down the highway and stops after a couple of restarts in town. The car will start back up without a check engine light. We have tried different gas stations and putting gas in when empty or 1/2 tank and still does it most of the time.
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Purchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
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2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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My sonata has started having issues on the highway at speeds ~65-75 mph. It will start vibrating, a little at first and gradually getting worse. As this happens my brake pedal seems to be more firm and touchy rather than soft and needing more pressure to stop. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor as I drive. This has happened twice so far, with a gap of about a week in between incidents. What should I get checked out?
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ACCessory power (Key On) 12v can take anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes after the engine is on. Haven't tried leaving key on engine off for that long, but I would assume it would eventually give power to ACC too.
There is the greenishyellow and black wire to the sound system which is supposed to be key on 12v, and the lower power port (cig lighter type) only gets power after key on.
Its been doing this for years...and I swear it happened after one night of leaving the lights on. Battery has been replaced since, but ever since that once time.
It does always come on, eventually. Doesn't matter if warm or not. If you turn off key, it takes random 2 to 10 minutes to get power back to ACC.
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My daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
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I am having an issue with my 2008 Ford Escape XLT. It seems that my A/C and Heater fan isnt working properly. Basically, air only comes out when i put the fan speed to 4. With 1-3, no air comes out. If the A/C or Heat is on, I can feel cold air or heat coming out but the actual fan isn't running. It only runs when it is set to 4. What the problem could be?
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I'm experiencing the tug/jerk/shuddering in my 2012 Escape v6. It happens more around 70mph or 2,000-2,500rpm.
Tug/jerk/lurch/buck happens even more with OD off. Happens around 60mph or 2000rpm with OD off.
Been to the dealer several times even test drove with a mechanic that acknowledges the tug/jerk sensation. No codes or faults. Last visit the dealer showed me a print out of misfire counts and all cylinders were 0 yet on the drive home it was tug/jerk/lurching.
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I have a Lexus RX 350 and about a month and a half ago I got the rack and pinion replaced. Pretty shortly after, as I was driving highways speeds somewhere in the 60-70 range, it started to feel a little rough, as if I was driving over rough pavement, but it was brand new blacktop. I put the brakes on and the vehicle started to vibrate, not the steering wheel though. After I braked, the rough sound and vibration didn't come back until a week or two ago, it's been happening intermittently and very seldom, maybe has happened a total of 5 or 6 times, but I'm concerned because it never did this before the rack and pinion. I got it all done on a Saturday, alignment was involved too, so I wonder if maybe someone hurried themselves and didn't do something to protocol.
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT, auto,V-6, with 129000 miles on it. It runs fine except for a couple of things. One is, at highway speeds the transmission will seem to shift up and down. Also sometimes at highway speeds I get what I describe as a "bump" or "shudder" I think it is coming from the transmission.
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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2002 Ford Escape XLS 5 Speed, My timing belt was just replaced along with the timing idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket. It drove great yesterday but this morning when I was taking my son to school the engine started knocking. It does this idling and at slow speeds. Once driving the noise disappears. What this may be?
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Fitted new snow tires with the intent of leaving them on year round. Now find that the Escape is pretty well un drivable due to shake at all speeds. Balance has been checked by two tire shops. I think that the problem is that the deep blocks of tread are "squirming"The tires are surprisingly quiet but unfortunately will have to go.
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My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
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My Mazda MPV will stall at slow speeds, such as if I am turning a corner or slowing down at a stoplight. Sometimes it starts back up once I put it into park, but other times it takes a few minutes of trying/resting before it will start up. One day, I am afraid it won't start up at all again. I just got new spark plugs and recently got a new mass airflow thingy put in. Check engine light does not come on for this.
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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2006 4.6l / Stalls at stop signs, red lights, and slow turns. My truck has been doing this for 3 years. Throws a code for crank position sensor, also will say unexpected low idle which would explain why so many of us have low oil pressure while this is happening. So after years of worrying and reading these forums and stalling at stop signs I take to the shop. And it was the throttle body needed cleaned. No more problems. Runs like a new one. I have used Lucas fuel treatment for years in this truck. Im a big fan of their products. When this problem began I was adding Lucas with every tank of fuel.
I buy it by the gallon jug. I used some Lucas from this same jug on the wifeys Denali and her truck stalled out once or twice. She wouldn't ever let me add any to her gas again lol, I argued with her that it wasn't because of the Lucas additive. Never the less it never stalled again. Maybe I got a bad batch, maybe I used too much, or maybe it had nothing to do with the additive. But I thought it needed to be mentioned since it is supposed to be a cleaner, and since I carried it in my tool box and added it to almost every tank of fuel. I was adding about 7 ounces per tank. Who knows? But the problem with this truck is that the throttle body did need cleaned.
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