Honda - Prelude :: 1998 - Clutch Is Grabbing Very Low And It Does Not Slip
Sep 19, 2011
I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...
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Ok so I took my R out to look track to get some 1/4mile passes in. Didn't do anything out of the norm. Took my first pass and noticed that much clutch pedal wasn't feeling right. It wasn't grabbing like it usually does, it was grabbing close to the floor. I took it out of gear and pumped the clutch peddle a few times and then it grabbed like it normally would. I've never had something like this happen in any of my VWs or any other car. What may have happened? I was thinking maybe a slave cylinder issue?
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I bought a used accent 1.3 before few months , with 100k miles on the clock. I did all the basic maintenance stuff, oils, filters, spark plugs, coolant, timing belt etc... I replaced the clutch disc also, because it was slipping.
The problem is that the clutch engage with a knock sound, just like when you have a loose engine mount. But... if i stay with clutch pedal pressed for a second, do the shift and released, the clutch engage smooth and all works fine. So, that's the way I do shifts for now.. Is this a flyweel problem?
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I did a compression test on the Prelude. Pulled plugs, cranked thru the test, but did not ground out the ignition. Put it back together and no spark. Changed the coil, no start. Changed the ICM and it coughed and sputtered, then cleared and ran well. Shut it off, then it wouldn't start. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not. Air temp doesn't seem to effect it.
Honda shop told me it was out of time, then I left Honda, kicked it into V-TEC and went onto the freeway with 3rd gear maxed out. Timing isn't the issue. The battery is fully charged and it has great fuel pressure. So far I have replaced the coil, ICM, distributor, battery and main relay. Still won't start. Could it have burned the ECM? I have run thru the wiring with a meter and cannot find anything wrong.
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I have a 93 Prelude that randomly shuts down and stalls. When this happens there are no signs of life in the car. All lights and accessories shut off and the car stalls. After anywhere from 2 mins to 15 mins you will be able to restart the car and continue on your way. I am the only owner of the car. It has 83,000 miles on it. At this point it happens very randomly without warning. Usually about 3 or 4 times a month.
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This 1997 Honda prelude 140k has an oil leak that when I turn the car on that oil starts to gush out of it. I'm not sure what would cause oil to gush out of the bottom. It's not the oil drain plug nor is it the oil filter.
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I have a 96 prelude that wont stay in 5th gear cant even hold it in...
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1994 Honda Prelude has 1 out of the 4 brakes that are working. Only the driver side brake is working. I used a IR thermometer and after 30 min of city driving the driver side was at 200+ degrees. The 3 other wheels were at 40-48 degrees. What could be wrong?
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1994 Honda prelude vibration in steering wheel. When I drive the car on the highway there is an intermittent vibration through the steering wheel. It isn't speed sensitive. It is off and on even at the same speed. It will come in for about 5 min and then the car will drive vibration free even at the same speed. So I don't think it's a wheel weight. I checked the inner/outer tie rods, wheel bearing, ball joints and all are fine.
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I have a manual 98 civic with 120k miles on it that has recently developed an annoying habit of stalling. The car started fine the other morning so I backed it into the driveway to warm up, no problems there. When I went to leave for work, the car stalled and died. I got it restarted but when I tried to drive it stalled again. It happened as soon as I disengage the clutch. As I said, moving in reverse was no problem. The battery died after I attempted several times to restart it so I charged the battery overnight.
The next morning the car fired up right away with no hesitation nut as soon as I released the clutch it started sputtering so I gunned the engine to keep the RPM's up. I managed to get it into 2nd and even 3rd but as soon as I down shifted for a stop sign it died. So far I've replaced the battery and the alternator, both were on their way out anyways. Then this past weekend I got a good deal on a new fuel pressure regulator and put that on. The car started right up and ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive for about a half hour.
About 20 minutes into the drive I noticed that when I pressed on the gas pedal, the RPMs wouldn't move up much higher. Shortly thereafter the car started sputtering while accelerating. When I got home I turned the car off and went inside. I came out about 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. This has happened after every part replacement. New alternator, runs fine for 20-30 minutes,then won't start again. New battery, same thing. And tonight the gas pressure regulator. Could it be the main fuel relay, should I pull the injectors? The plugs and wires are new and the distributor is less than 2 years old and well sealed. I'm at a real loss here.
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My 2001 Tacoma drives well most of the time, but when in 4 wheel drive low range, low gear, in demanding circumstances like heavy snow, it will buck, jump, act like the clutch is alternately and rapidly grabbing and releasing (but I'm pretty sure it's not actually that). Tires are good. Four cylinder, standard transmission.
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My anti lock warning comes on after 1 mile of driving. If I test the anti lock on ice during the first mile the system works fine, around 1 mile the lamp lights.
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I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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My 2001 Prelude (not SH) develops a vibration felt throughout the car and particularly the steering wheel after several minutes of constant highway (60 - 75 MPH) speed travel. Thought it might be a brake caliper sticking, but the car does not pull left or right. After 7 or 8 minutes of vibration, it stops and the ride is smooth as glass.
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1984 prelude...1.8l .... I have posted previously on this vehicle and I have had some "success". The car will run with the support of starting fluid but will only stay running if the engine is kept at 2500 rpms or higher. If you let off the gas, it will bog out and die. Starting it requires another shot of starting fluid and a foot on the gas.
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So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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Looks like my clutch is starting to slip a bit at ~50K, after a good bit of HPDE track usage over the last few years, and maybe some poor shifting by me. Anyway, want to replace with a stronger aftermarket unit that can stand up to track events, and am planning to go with a lightweight flywheel as well.
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What are the symptoms of the clutch slip.
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I have a 2010 gti with stage 2 tune, and mk6 clutch starting to slip? i have 30,000 miles, i am starting to do my research on the clutches. I am also looking in to just replacing the clutch disk, and i am wondering it just the clutch disk will hold up?
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I have a 2012 GTi. I just got the stage 2 unitronic flash on my car and now my clutch slips bad. I know i will need to replace my clutch. It was starting to slip before the tune and now it just cant handle it. The shop I went to recommended a South Bend Stage 2 Clutch kit (single mass). Its a daily driver and want something that will last and hold up to 325ftlbs of torque. I do think i want to go with the single mass clutch though.
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Noticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
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