Honda - Prelude :: 1993 Randomly Shuts Down And Stall
Aug 8, 2012
I have a 93 Prelude that randomly shuts down and stalls. When this happens there are no signs of life in the car. All lights and accessories shut off and the car stalls. After anywhere from 2 mins to 15 mins you will be able to restart the car and continue on your way. I am the only owner of the car. It has 83,000 miles on it. At this point it happens very randomly without warning. Usually about 3 or 4 times a month.
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I did a compression test on the Prelude. Pulled plugs, cranked thru the test, but did not ground out the ignition. Put it back together and no spark. Changed the coil, no start. Changed the ICM and it coughed and sputtered, then cleared and ran well. Shut it off, then it wouldn't start. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not. Air temp doesn't seem to effect it.
Honda shop told me it was out of time, then I left Honda, kicked it into V-TEC and went onto the freeway with 3rd gear maxed out. Timing isn't the issue. The battery is fully charged and it has great fuel pressure. So far I have replaced the coil, ICM, distributor, battery and main relay. Still won't start. Could it have burned the ECM? I have run thru the wiring with a meter and cannot find anything wrong.
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I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...
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This 1997 Honda prelude 140k has an oil leak that when I turn the car on that oil starts to gush out of it. I'm not sure what would cause oil to gush out of the bottom. It's not the oil drain plug nor is it the oil filter.
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I have a 96 prelude that wont stay in 5th gear cant even hold it in...
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1994 Honda Prelude has 1 out of the 4 brakes that are working. Only the driver side brake is working. I used a IR thermometer and after 30 min of city driving the driver side was at 200+ degrees. The 3 other wheels were at 40-48 degrees. What could be wrong?
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1994 Honda prelude vibration in steering wheel. When I drive the car on the highway there is an intermittent vibration through the steering wheel. It isn't speed sensitive. It is off and on even at the same speed. It will come in for about 5 min and then the car will drive vibration free even at the same speed. So I don't think it's a wheel weight. I checked the inner/outer tie rods, wheel bearing, ball joints and all are fine.
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My anti lock warning comes on after 1 mile of driving. If I test the anti lock on ice during the first mile the system works fine, around 1 mile the lamp lights.
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I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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My 2001 Prelude (not SH) develops a vibration felt throughout the car and particularly the steering wheel after several minutes of constant highway (60 - 75 MPH) speed travel. Thought it might be a brake caliper sticking, but the car does not pull left or right. After 7 or 8 minutes of vibration, it stops and the ride is smooth as glass.
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1984 prelude...1.8l .... I have posted previously on this vehicle and I have had some "success". The car will run with the support of starting fluid but will only stay running if the engine is kept at 2500 rpms or higher. If you let off the gas, it will bog out and die. Starting it requires another shot of starting fluid and a foot on the gas.
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Okay so my dads 93 explorer seems like its starving for gas, it cuts out almost like its going to stall, hasn't stalled yet, but it seems like its not getting enough gas, new fuel filter and still having the same problem, fuel pump isn't that old either, just started doing it maybe thursday. We haven't really looked much into it yet, but what it could be?
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
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I have a 93 Camry that quit on the highway. No spark, crack in condensor replaced distributer. Still not run. Rotor not turning, replaced timing belt, main engine fuse heating up replaced that. Now it starts right up but only runs 10 minutes. Then won't restart until several hours go by then it will start again. Runs like a champ when it starts.
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My 1993 Mazda B2600i starts up in the morning just fine. It runs for about 10 minutes and abruptly shuts off. I can crank it at full speed, (Good Battery), and it may attempt to start a few times and then it just cranks with no attempt to fire up. It just turns until the next day morning. Then it is the same thing all over again. I disconnected the fuel line from the out let of the fuel filter, leading to the fuel injectors and was able to fill a 2.5 cup glass jar in about 20 to 30 seconds.
I checked the ignition coil and there was spark there. Then I checked for spark at the #1 and #2 cylinders and detected the spark there as well. When the truck runs in the morning, for the 10 minutes that it runs, it seems to be very smooth in its operation. No abnormalities at all until it shuts off. I also listened to the fuel injectors with a screw driver at my ear and herd a fairly consistent clicking of the fuel injectors during the 10 minute operation of the engine.
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My 96 2dr. Blazer with 121,000 on it . It will randomly not start. Come back next day starts and runs fine. It will randomly Stall (usually at lower RPM) it may start back up or not .If it dosen't start, it will start up 2 hours later, like nothing happened.
Fuel press. reads 58-62 lbs. running or with k.o.e.o., Even when it won't start. It holds press. for 2 min. c.e.l. never comes on when car won't start. c.e.l. would come on at close to red line and would be "left bank rich" Dont think it's crank or cam sensor cause their are no codes? Gonna check coil and ICM .
Checked for bad connectors at ecu, and everywhere, pulled, giggled on harness at ign. switch,plugs on drivers side under hood.Pump coming on even when car doesn't start. When it dies or doesn't start it doesn't sputter, like it's not getting gas ,I think it's voltage.
Car has new fuel pump and spider installed 2 years ago, run 44K every 6mos. Car is perfect inside and out Very well maintained . I want to keep this car forever.
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My Jeep GC ZJ 1993 with 202202 miles V8 engine and automatic transmission cuts off/engine shuts down. I have found that when I put it into 2nd or 1st gear it never shuts off. For example, I am driving with AT in D (Drive) and come to a stop, the engine shuts down. However, if I move the selector to 2nd before coming to a stop it never shuts down. BTW it also shudders and headlights dim and battery voltage drops before it shuts down.
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I currently have a 2006 B6 w/ approx. 95k miles on it. A couple months ago I had my catalytic converter replaced at the dealership and then about a month ago my car started having issues with stalling.
Symptoms:
-Car drives normal - no loss of power or anything, but then will randomly stall when coming to a stop or slowing down, taking my foot off of the accelerator. After it stalls the red alternator light comes on. Check engine light comes on and off - lately on most of the time.
-The issue has gotten progressively worse recently, but for the past month it has been inconsistent. Sometimes I can go an entire drive and not experience it and then other times it will stall nonstop. Lately, there have also been a few times where it's taken a few tries to start it, though this is recent as before it restarted perfectly fine.
-Recently, the car has started exhibiting symptoms at highway speeds as well, occasionally brief episodes where it will begin to jerk and shake. Usually stops as pressure is applied to the gas pedal.
-Also, have issues with the parking brake... the switch seems to have randomly broken in the center (no clue how) and I keep getting a parking brake fault. Not sure if this is related or an entirely separate issue.
I took the car to a very reputable independent VW/Audi shop and after several days they still have been unable to locate the issue. Based on the codes the MIL was sending the first visit, they replaced the low fuel pressure sensor and the cam position sender. Neither fixed the problem. So, now I have to decide where to go from here... They took off the labor and only charged me for the parts.
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My car has almost 93,000 miles on it. This has happened randomly three times over the past 2 months. While I'm driving the engine will rev up to about 3k-4k rpms and then the whole car will turn off. While its happening I can't accelerate. If I start the car immediately after it shuts off the engine will turn over normally but the same thing will happen. I'll try to accelerate and the rpm's will hang around 3k-4k and shut off again. However if I wait a couple of minutes and try to start the car it will start and run normally. It happened this weekend and before that maybe 3 weeks ago, all 3 times so far on my way home from work.
To clarify when the car shuts down, the engine and everything else shuts down as too, I do still get some warning lights on my dash. I don't remember 100% but I think it was the EPS light and the oil light. My car doesn't have any issues with burning oil, and I change the oil pretty often.
I've brought it to the dealership and they were unable to find a cause. They gave me my car back and said if it keeps happening to bring it back. I've been reading about the engine recalls and my car is one of the effected one's according to my vin number. However my engine doesn't make any weird noises. There is no clunking sound or banging while the car is running and if the car does shut off, I can still get it going again. The dealership said they tested for it and my car passed.
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