Honda - Pilot - Transmissions :: Car Rolling Backwards And No Gears Engage When Driving Uphill
May 3, 2014
Took my 2007 Honda Pilot in on Thursday for an oil change and trip inspection to a very reputable mechanic that specializes in Japanese cars. He said he found a small amount of leakage on the rear cover of the transmission (it is a two wheel drive) so he removed the cover, resealed, and refilled the fluid. The evening after I picked it up, as I was driving up a hill, the car started rolling backwards and no gears would engage. Had it towed back to my house.
No fluid in the reservoir and the dipstick smells burnt. Obvious trans fluid on the underside of car. Is the transmission fried? Does he owe me a new transmission? No trans problems in it's history. It has been a great car and I am anal about the maintenance. I have all records since new. Should I have it towed back to him on Monday morning or towed to a dealer? The car has 89,000 mostly highway miles on it.
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I own a '96 Honda Accord EX (4 speed transmission) currently with 133,000 miles on it. Last February (2014) I downshifted the car while going up a hill (yes, I now know that was a bad idea) and the subsequent jerk was immediately followed by a check engine light. The code was P0715 for Turbine Speed Sensor Failure; I read up what I could on Google, and brought the car to a Honda Center a couple days later to have a diagnostic run. They said the transmission was still okay and working fine, but recommended a transmission flush to replace all the fluid and clean the filter/pan (I can't remember exactly), which I did. They said the transmission would continue to deteriorate and that I should be aware that it will probably fail at some point, but the flush should buy me some time. (I've since read about transmission flushes as well.)
Fast forward to now, the car is still driving okay and the check engine light has stayed off. The transmission shifts into every gear and has not caused me any issues, but I can tell it's getting jerkier. I've driven Sprinters with terrible transmissions where you can fully feel a 'thud' as it shifts and, my car is not there yet, but it's deteriorating. Work put into the car over the past two years includes replacing 2 wheel bearings, fixing the CV axle, and replacing the spark plugs, with maintenance and the flush it ... (it had only 108,000 miles in 2012 and has since been cross-country twice).
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I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
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I have the same problem noted on last weekend's show with another Subaru owner. My car has a burning type smell (burning rubber or burning oil) only when driving uphill on a mountain road. I'm not sure the answer given on the show is correct about the rubber under the carpet smelling because of the catalytic converter. The smell comes through the venting system.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Xterra with 250k miles on it and it runs like its was just off the factory floor, or at least it did. Today I got in my car and started it up normally and put it in drive to leave, but when I took my foot off the break it started to roll backwards on flat ground. I immediately put my foot on the break and looked to see if I might of put it in reverse by accident, but it was in drive. I took my foot off the break to see if it would do it again, but it didn't. However the whole drive it didn't respond the way it used to, it was more sluggish, but only slightly. And now it whistles in relation to the throttle that I never had before.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500, 5 speed manual with 110k miles. This past winter, the truck has started to whine when it's in reverse. The strange thing is that it also whines when it's in neutral and simply rolling backwards. It's intermittent, which is why I've been hesitant to take it to a shop to have them waste a bunch of time with it and say they can't reproduce it. Things that make it more likely to occur -- the truck being cold (IE: shortly after a start), air temperature being cold, when it's in 4WD. When I brake, it stops immediately. If I have the clutch on the floor or the transmission in neutral, it will keep doing it, as long as it's rolling backwards. This never happens in any forward gear, and it's been happening intermittently for a few months now. I had the transmission fluid changed this past fall, sometime before I noticed it started happening.
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Six months ago my 2005 Honda Pilot got a new timing belt that was incorrectly calibrated. When the Honda Dealer test drove the car, they damaged the values. They fixed the valve damage and gave me a discount on the timing belt. I considered selling the car, but decided to keep it.
Now it's six months later. When driving I hear a "clicking noise". The dealer says that the timing belt tensioner needs to be replaced and that it would be dangerous to drive it at high speed as it is now. The clicking is caused by a worn ??? tensioner.
They claim that the incorrectly calibrated timing belt could not have caused this problem with the tensioner.
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When I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 with 237k miles on the original 4R100. Yesterday afternoon I went to back out of a parking space and the truck wouldn't move. When I put it in R, the transmission will engage and upon pressing the gas pedal it acts like it wants to move but will not budge. It rolls forward with no issue or noise. It will not roll backwards at all - not in neutral and not in reverse. The transmission shifts fine but with some hesitation to engage each gear. I have noticed some slippage but nothing crazy.
I 1st thought something might be wrong with the rear end but after some research I think it might be the transmission.
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I have a '98 Civic Dx with 217,000+ miles on it. Last year I had the water pump and timing belt replaced and beginning in February I noticed my antifreeze was disappearing but couldn't find any leaks. One mechanic said it was the water pump, so I had it redone under warranty. The antifreeze is still disappearing and now my mechanic tells me it's the radiator. (Don't you think he would have said that the first time?) It seems that the transmission is starting to go (see below) so I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the radiator or trying to patch any leaks I can find. I've heard such mixed reviews on patching radiator leaks and this mechanic won't do it. The part is cheap and I can probably replace or repair it myself. So, repair or replace?
I've had a few incidents of my car shuddering after I start driving and losing power around the first turn. Sometimes the shudder is worse if I've turned the car on, idled for a few moments and then started driving. The shudder was similar to one time when I had a bad spark plug wire, so thinking it was that I gave my car a tune up-- new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. But two mornings ago it nearly stalled as I was taking the first turn off my street.
Then yesterday morning it nearly stalled after I backed out of my parking space and began driving (I'd sat for a few moments with the car idling before backing out). For a while I've felt like it wasn't really getting full power around the first turn. I don't know how to describe it except that pushing on the accelerator didn't really do anything until the car had completed the turn and straightened out. I haven't had any problems throughout the rest of the day-- it drives just fine. It's only when it's been sitting at least overnight.
I'm in denial about it being my transmission. It has never liked to start when I've down to or below a quarter tank of gas, and someone else who called the show about that was told that the fuel system was probably losing pressure as it sat overnight, which sounds like what happens to mine. Could this be another symptom of that? Or could something in the fuel system be clogged, like the filter? (My Dad had a clogged fuel filter once and his car would lose power on an incline.) Or is this perhaps the beginning of the end for my little friend? I'm at 217k...
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My husband's 1999 (manual transmission) Honda Accord has suddenly gone from a very reliable vehicle to a very big problem. Last week, he experienced problems while driving in fourth gear going up hill at around 45 MPH. The car essentially stopped pulling him up the hill, so he went into third, and got nothing, then second, and got nothing. It took a few tries to re-start the car, which then started idling at lower-than-usual RPM's.
He revved the engine a bit, gave it a test drive, and was able to get to his destination without any more problems. The next day, at about the same place in the road, he experienced something similar, but this time, he revved the engine to increase the RPM's while in fourth gear and was able to make it through without any stalls. This morning, however, his car did not start. The engine will turn over, but it is not engaging. It does not seem to be an electrical problem, since the engine is turning over. No warning or "check engine" lights have come on at this point.
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My 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.8L engine won't shift going up hill. On any incline, it stays in the gear it was in when the incline starts and will never upshift. So we're stuck going 20 to 25MPH up hill. Once we get to the crest of the hill, it shifts to the next gear and we're good to go. From a standing still on flat land, if I nail the accelerator pedal, it also won't shift, I have to back off the accelerator, and it will upshift normally. What's up with this?
Have engine light on and the code indicates a bad EGR valve, and possibly a bad catalytic converter, but Autozone indicated that a bad EGR can also produce a code for a bad catalytic converter. They recommended replacing the EGR valve first, then see if the code comes back. But they didn't know if this would cause a loss of torque, which might be related to the shifting problem.
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I own a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. I believe it has a 4T65-E transmission.
On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
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I have a 98 Express conversion van and when I start the van and pull away the van has trouble shifting between first, second, and third. It acts like it hiccups before it changes gears. I have to manually shift between the first few gears until I get to 55-60 miles an hour, once I get there and slow the van back down it will automatically shift like normal. I will not have any other issues until I turn the van off, as soon is I turn it off something resets and I will have to get it up to 55 again to get whatever it is to click in to get it to shift properly again. I can't figure it out?
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My Mustang is an automatic. The shifter in the console sticks when changing gears. At times, I have to keep it half way into another gear or else I hear grinding or the car won't go into gear. Is it my transmission or my console?
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The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
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Our 2003 Honda Pilot with 130K miles recently developed a front end Knock/rattle, which is sustained at about 70 miles per hour. Dealer "couldn't hear the noise". Tried new tires per dealer suggestion- fail! Recently we towed our 2100 lb pop up with it, and it was MUCH louder, and of course sustained at lower speed. Should we even be towing a pop up with a vehicle that has this many miles on it?
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Over the past few months I have been hearing a low sounding vibration that seems to be coming from the drivers side front. It only seems to happen when I am driving on a straight road, but not on the highway. Recently, I have been hearing the sound more frequently and within the last month the front end has been shaking. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that the front sway bar links were broken and the rotors were warped. He said replacing both of these (and the front brake pads) would eliminate both problems. $700 later and not 5 minutes down the road, the low sounding vibration came back! I've been paying attention to when I hear it and it happens on a straight road just as I am approaching 40 mph.
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My 2004 Honda Pilot was leaking oil recently. Diagnosis was problem with rear main seal. I took it to a transmission shop. They replaced the rear main seal and the front motor mount. Within 24 hrs of this repair, I started hearing creaking. I hear the noise when I go to straighten out the wheel after turning a corner.
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I will describe as best as I can. You know when you drive over the rumble strip on the edge of the highway, this is exactly how the car feels. The vehicle was well maintained and I'm the original owner. A little history, I was rear ended a few years ago multi car accident and I was the first vehicle the Mercedes C300 behind me was totaled. I only felt a little bump to be honest. The rear bumper had some damage as well as the quarter panel and a flat tire but no damage to the rim.
I think a short time after is when this started but not right after. I'm thinking that the rear diff was damaged, but I'm not sure how the car feels or what does it do when the diff is going bad. The oil in the diff was changed every 30k. The engine and the transmission seem to be fine. This shudder hits around 40 and sometimes at 60 and it is an awful shake and when I let off on the gas it goes away and sometimes comes right back. Some days it doesn't do it and then some days a lot.
Also, the tires and brakes are new.
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lots of hesitation upon acceleration..used fuel cleaner several times doesn't work ..what would cause this hesitation ?
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