Our 2003 Honda Pilot with 130K miles recently developed a front end Knock/rattle, which is sustained at about 70 miles per hour. Dealer "couldn't hear the noise". Tried new tires per dealer suggestion- fail! Recently we towed our 2100 lb pop up with it, and it was MUCH louder, and of course sustained at lower speed. Should we even be towing a pop up with a vehicle that has this many miles on it?
View 2 RepliesOver the past few months I have been hearing a low sounding vibration that seems to be coming from the drivers side front. It only seems to happen when I am driving on a straight road, but not on the highway. Recently, I have been hearing the sound more frequently and within the last month the front end has been shaking. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that the front sway bar links were broken and the rotors were warped. He said replacing both of these (and the front brake pads) would eliminate both problems. $700 later and not 5 minutes down the road, the low sounding vibration came back! I've been paying attention to when I hear it and it happens on a straight road just as I am approaching 40 mph.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Honda Pilot with 117,947 miles on it. When I reach 40 mph there is a shuttering sound that vibrates through the front floor boards. Took it to a Honda dealer and they could not duplicate the issue. It happened intermittently. Does not appear to be related to outside temperature or level of gas in tank. What the issue may be for the shuttering?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Pilot. 65K Miles.
Several months ago, when turning left, regardless of speed, my wife starting hearing a noise. It is not a knocking or harsh grinding noise, but a low grumble (I don't have a great word for it). It's definitely rotational, it doesn't get any louder as speed increases, but it obviously happens more often. It seems to come from the right side of the car, I originally thought it was from the wheel, but just now I had it jacked up and had a neighbor who works on cars look at it with me and now I'm not so sure.
When I described the problem to him, he first thought it was a CV joint, or possibly ball bearing. After a few minutes looking under the hood, he quickly ruled those out. Boots were in great condition, and he remarked that everything seems to be very solid around the wheel.
I thought that noise was a result of weight shift to the right side of the vehicle when making right-hand turns, but we had the car up on two jacks stands placed on the jack braces, turned the car on and gave it some gas with the wheels turned left, and you can definitely hear the noise with zero weight on the wheels or axles. When you straighten the wheel, the noise subsides.
I have seen a few separate threads regarding a front rattle/knocking noise on some Gen II Prius. This is not the engine mount metallic-knock sound but rather a subtle rattle coming from the front end when going over smallish bumps at low speeds and sometimes accompanied by a slight knock in the steering wheel.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
I have a 2011 F250 4X4 Supercab 6.7L that has a highly annoying knock/rattle (you can't hear it) under the front passenger side floor. It feels like someone is tapping on the floor beneath your feet any time you hit a bump or when on a rough road.
Its been in at least 5 times in 2 yrs with cab mount adjustments/shims, cab mount replacements and realignment of the exhaust and brackets. The knock has been there since about day one (I assume anyway, I'm rarely on that side of the cab) and have burned up my 36k warranty, although I'm told i'm good because it is pre-existing.
I keep insisting its in the suspension and keep being told they can't find anything. The mechanic indicated that this is a known problem, but Ford has not put out any service bulletins other than to do the cab mounts and suspension. Has anyone had this problem and found the solution?
My 98 honda civic (automatic) makes a rattle sound from the front of the car when it shifts (accelerating) it doesn't seem to cause any problems but I would like to know if it's a problem and should get it checked out?
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 Honda Pilot was leaking oil recently. Diagnosis was problem with rear main seal. I took it to a transmission shop. They replaced the rear main seal and the front motor mount. Within 24 hrs of this repair, I started hearing creaking. I hear the noise when I go to straighten out the wheel after turning a corner.
View 2 RepliesI will describe as best as I can. You know when you drive over the rumble strip on the edge of the highway, this is exactly how the car feels. The vehicle was well maintained and I'm the original owner. A little history, I was rear ended a few years ago multi car accident and I was the first vehicle the Mercedes C300 behind me was totaled. I only felt a little bump to be honest. The rear bumper had some damage as well as the quarter panel and a flat tire but no damage to the rim.
I think a short time after is when this started but not right after. I'm thinking that the rear diff was damaged, but I'm not sure how the car feels or what does it do when the diff is going bad. The oil in the diff was changed every 30k. The engine and the transmission seem to be fine. This shudder hits around 40 and sometimes at 60 and it is an awful shake and when I let off on the gas it goes away and sometimes comes right back. Some days it doesn't do it and then some days a lot.
Also, the tires and brakes are new.
lots of hesitation upon acceleration..used fuel cleaner several times doesn't work ..what would cause this hesitation ?
View 5 RepliesMy honda pilot has 95,000 miles on it and was just serviced a month before I took a trip. It was driving fine and the engine started getting hot. It died as I drove down the exit ramp and the oil light came on just as it died. After towing it to the shop they found white goo in the radiator. See attached photo. They assumed there was a leak with transmission fluid or oil mixing in the radiator. The oil was empty and the transmission fluid was full and clean. When they replaced my motor and radiator they did not find any cracks or area where a leak had occurred. Everyone is puzzled.
View 4 RepliesWhile my wife was driving tonight the VSA light went on, the emergency brake light went on, and the "D" for drive was flashing green. She stopped the car and called me. One the Car was in park, it would not go back into the Drive, and it continued to flash green. I've tried pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery. The other issue is that The hazard lights will not work and the turning blinker will not function. I have determined its an electrical issue. Other than that I'm clueless.
I popped the button just below port just below the shifter and manually put in drive and drove it home.
I needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.
Whenever my 2004 Honda Pilot gets stuck in traffic, I have to switch it into a lower gear in order to resume forward. Automatic transmission. It's a rebuilt trans that has 60K on it. Transmission fluids at right levels and recently flushed. The car mileage is 198K. I don't have the issue with normal highway and local driving. It is only when I am stuck in traffic.
View 1 RepliesHaving lived through this scenario, I can only relate what happened to me. The transmission fluid/antifreeze mixture (which was a frothy pink color) was forced out of the overflow tank on the radiator, and the car drove a few miles before there was no more fluid in the transmission and the car stopped moving. We replaced the radiator and flushed it a couple of times to try and get out the transmission fluid, and I did a drain and fill on the transmission every week for a few months to try and get out the antifreeze, since I heard it is very corrosive to the seals in the transmission. So far, I have not had to replace the transmission. This happened on a 2005 Honda Pilot, and it would appear that the transmission is built from the tears of unicorns, stardust, and unobtainium, given the price to replace it.
View 2 RepliesWhat the heck caused this? Something melted through the license plate holder, then through the plastic of the bumper, down to the metal body. A week ago I had the timing belt, plugs and water pump replaced by my mechanic here in Orlando. I didn't notice anything when I picked it up but I didn't really do a visual inspection of the front of the car either since it was parked facing a fence when I picked it up. Since then it has been driven by my wife to work 3 times. While there, she parks against and facing her building with only a row of shrubs in front of her. And at home it's parked in our garage with about a distance of 3 feet from the washing machine. I asked at my repair shop and they said they had no idea what could have caused this other than a diesel truck, however there is no residue typical of a diesel exhaust.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Pilot. The low tire pressure indicator and the tire pressure monitoring system indicate that I need air in my right front tire. I have had this professionally checked and my tire pressure is accurate. Do I need to get this fixed or will it do any damage if I leave these indicators as they are?
View 4 RepliesI am considering purchasing a used 2005 Honda Pilot EX-L that has a sunroof. When I test drove it the sunroof sounded as though it was partially open even though it was closed. Opening and closing the sunroof did not solve the issue. Nor did cleaning out the sunroof tracks. Before committing to purchase this vehicle I would like to know if there is a way to fix the noise issue from the sunroof?
View 8 RepliesEngine was replaced [no VIN available] 3 mos ago. All ok, runs great but engine light on and get code VTM-4.
Initially there were several other codes [I guess motor replacement is like surgery] with eng light, but mechanic fixed everything, except this persistent VTM-4. Haven't asked him about this code yet. What's happening?
This weekend, my 2011 Honda Pilot (12000 mile) started showing "Tighten Fuel cap" sign. I opened the fuel cap & close it again tightly to make sure it is properly closed but the sign did not go away. I tried it couple of times with no success (I even shutdown the engine, restart it). So I was thinking to take it to my dealer after the weekend. But next day, when I start my car again, the sign went away & it did not come again for last 2 days either. Why it happened? Should I be worried?
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