Honda - Pilot :: Keys Won't Go In Lock / Ignition Without Multiple Attempts
Feb 5, 2014
So I bought a 2005 Honda Pilot which came with 2 keys. The main key has a remote battery (which is dead) and a spare key. Because the battery is dead, we must manually unlock the car door each time we get in. A month ago or so I noticed that the main key was having trouble going in the driver's side door. It would go about half way in and jam. I would try 5-10 times and then eventually it'd go in and turn fine. Sometimes I'd go to the passenger door where it would open with no problem.
We started having the same problem with the key in the ignition, where it would take several times to get the key in the ignition, once in, it would turn fine. At this point, we switched to the passenger key, as we are really tight in the money dept (aren't we all?), and didn't want to pay much money for a slight inconvenience.
Unfortunately we're not having the same trouble with the spare key in the ignition. 5-10 times before it will go in, once in, it starts fine. The main key is still tough on the driver door. The only thing I can think of is it's the keys and the ignition, as it doesn't make sense that it's limited to one or the other since we have problems with both keys..
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I haven't ever read the manual for my car. But the doors automatically lock when keys are out of ignition. most of the time, that is.
View 20 Replies
The lock in the cargo hatch of my 2003 Honda Pilot is loose and wobbles around -- you have to really slam the door hard to get it to engage, and it rattles. I went to Autozone and showed it to them, and the guy pulled the trim molding out slightly and retrieved two short screws with large flat heads. Said I needed to remove the trim panel and put the screws back in. So -- how do I remove the trim panel so I can do this? Do I need specialized tools, and is this something I can do myself?
View 2 Replies
I got home from work today and pressed the power button to shut the car off and the car completely died (door locks and open door dinger worked) and would not restart after multiple attempts. The dash was completely dead. I waited a couple minutes and it started just fine like normal. I went straight to the dealership that does the maintenance to have them look at it and the service manager pretty much told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I have since started, driven and turned it off a few times since without any problem, differences from normal, or warning lights. This is the first time anything has ever acted up after 98500 miles.
View 2 Replies
Been having a problem starting the car (2010 T Spirit - 25k mileage RSH) in the mornings for about 3 weeks. When you power on, the dashboard lights up most options and the power light goes amber with no engine start.
This can take 5 or 6 attempts before getting the engine to start and then half the dashboard like the clock etc will not light up for that journey. Subsequent journeys that day are ok but the issue returns for the first start every day.
View 9 Replies
I own a Honda 2009 Accord EXL with about 25,000 miles. Over the last 5 years a problem has occurred randomly (at least 8 times) and up to last week I was able to over come it. The problem is: when attempting to start the car you find that the steering wheel, shift lever, and ignition key lock are all "locked" up. Nothing can be moved or turned. Thus you can not start or move the car. Up until last week I would jiggle the steering wheel or the shift lever and it would unlock. I took it to the Honda dealer after the first few times and they all but laughed at me . Then last week nothing I did could to get the devices unlocked.
I called the local dealer and he advised having it towed in, which I did. When the tow truck driver arrived he showed me the hidden compartment next to the shift lever and inserted the key. This did unlock the steering wheel sufficiently that we could get the car aligned with the tow truck. And I was able to insert the key and start the engine. But when I attempted to shift the car it acted as if it remained in neutral. In other words the engine roared but no motion no matter which gear I selected. We managed to get the car onto the tow truck and delivered to the dealer. Of course when the dealer looked at it, all was well no problem.
The dealer kept the car and "went over everything" and "found nothing wrong". They said they "have never experienced" this problem before and their home office confirmed that. The Dealer's solution: If you park the car, shift to Park, and turn it off and then turn the steering wheel counterclockwise hard, a click is heard and the whole car is locked up. The dealer showed me that by pushing hard on the brake, forcibly turning the wheel, and at the same time playing with the ignition key with a little luck it all unlocks. (Notice he did not indicate using the hidden compartment trick.)
I find it strange that the dealer has "never ever experienced this issue", yet has a "work around"!! Though I must admit it does work when you purposely "lock" the steering wheel (the random act has not occurred again so far). My question : is there some fault to the electronic (or other) sub systems which should be fixed? I just hate to have my wife out alone and run into the situation again.
View 2 Replies
My husband's 2000 Ford Expedition has 94K miles and has been very well maintained. For the past few months, it's been having intermittent ignition problems. It'll start up fine for a few days, and then suddenly will need several-to-many attempts in order to start. Engine cranks every time, but won't catch. A few times it has taken over 10 min to get it started, and on occasion we've had to take our other vehicle instead. My son and I spent 15 creepy minutes in a dark parking lot the other night trying to get the truck to start.
It's in the Ford repair shop for the third time in a month now (last time was for 4 days), and the shop has been unable to replicate the problem enough to diagnose it. (The two times when it wouldn't start for them was when they DIDN'T have it hooked up to fuel-system test equipment.) I'm getting the sense they just want us to go away quietly and buy a new vehicle, but this one is the type we like...paid for! The problem occurs at various times of day...in various types of weather...when truck is hot, cold, or in between...gas tank at different levels...we can't find a common denominator, and all other diagnostics come back fine. The only slightly creepy suggestion the shop had was that maybe someone poured sugar in the gas tank..
View 6 Replies
I went to get into my car this morning & my key fob didn't work. I Manually entered the car by using my key in the door (expecting the alarm to go off). I put the keys into the ignition & twist to start my car &.... NOTHING. I'm getting no display on my monitors (almost like there is no power to the car) & to make matters worse. I can't get the key out of the ignition. A couple things of note.
1. I had both batteries replaced in December (as a precaution since both were originals)
2. I've noticed that there may be a water seepage issue (noticed some water collected in the driver side floor of my car which may have gone unnoticed because I'd attributed it to water from my feet when it was raining) I've never seen any water accumulation on the floor during a dry day until this morning.
How I can get the key out of the ignition w/o power (i.e is there a manual release switch?) Is there a way to get the car into neutral w/o power etc.? The last time w/ the steering wheel issue. I had a devil of a time w/ the tow company because the wheels were locked etc.
View 10 Replies
I drive a 99 s/w 2 and this mourning when I arrived at work I got out of the vehicle and the bell that chimes when you leave the headlights on or the key in the ignition the warning chime would not turn off even though the keys were out of the ignition and the headlights were off, however it stops chiming when you shut the door.
View 2 Replies
Keys get stuck in ignition lose all power have replaced ignition and shifter?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus and recently lost my transponder key for my ignition. I do have a spare key cut but it doesn't have a chip in it, I can only use it to unlock the doors and open the trunk.
What I want to know... is there:
➣ A way to disable/bypass the theft prevention system so I can use the non-chipped key in my ignition?
➣ a way I can modify my key to trick the theft prevention system into thinking it is a real key?
View 15 Replies
Just got a new battery for my 2002 Honda Odyssey on Friday. I did not drive the car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning it faintly sounded like it would start but then would start clicking. After several attempts it started. I drove about 3 miles to drop my kids off at school and it started right up when I left the school. Should I take it back to where I got my battery or will it be fine if I don't let it sit for days without starting?
View 8 Replies
I was driving home and i turned off my car as soon as i put it in park. Came back down two minutes later and it wont turn over or try to start. It makes a weird low clicking sound once the keys are taken out of the ignition.
View 1 Replies
My Jeep will not start. I can put the keys in the ignition and try to start it and nothing will happen. No sounds, clicking, nothing. The battery is fine, I replaced it with a new one, made sure it was charged and nothing happens when I try to crank it. The interior lights dont come on when I open the door but if i turn them on, they come on but they are very dim. Automatics locks dont work, horn doesnt work. I tried to jump start it with the new battery in with my other car. It tried to turn over but wont come on. It just sounds like the battery is dead when I try to turn it over. The vehicle in question is a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.
View 5 Replies
I have Honda Accord 2003 with 114000 miles on it. All of a sudden it started acting goofy while starting. It didn't start for first few attempts, there was little crank in first 2 attempts. After 3 attempts, I waited for 1 minute and started and it started immediately,just like a new car. This behavior only happens if it gets cold (Florida weather cold) or I let the car sit for 3 days. I left my car at the dealership 3 or 4 times. They couldn't replicate the issue.
I changed the sparked plugs and got my fuel injectors cleaned and also replaced a gas pressure pump. I even got it towed and once car got at the store it started on first attempt. I asked them to change the air filter. Since then its working fine but during start up when I turn the key to start, it feels like car struggles to start but it always start on first attempts. Dash lights, Radio, Wiper and everything works fine on ignition.
View 1 Replies
2005 F250 superduty 5.4l crewcab. When I shut the truck off and remove the keys from ignition, the chime keeps going off like the keys are still in the ignition until I turn the ignition back to the off position again.(about 1/8 of an inch.)
View 4 Replies
I recently bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla. The other day I noticed when I opened my door and the keys were still in the ignition, it either did not beep at all to warn me or only beeped once very briefly. I am almost certain I recall it beeping constantly until I pulled the keys out of the ignition. This feature has saved me from locking my keys in my car a few times and would like it to work again.
There are no other issues that I have had with the car, the ignition works fine as well as everything else.
View 1 Replies
My 2004 Elantra is having electrical problems. I left the keys in the ignition one night, and now systems within the car do not work. The car no longer responds to remote controls (lock/unlock). The lights in the cabin do not work. The digital clock and radio displays are blank. The gauges are also reading incorrectly when I start the car (all of them move up and freeze for a few seconds at 4000 RPMs, 70 mph, Hot Engine, then come back down to correct readings).
The car starts fine, and I have checked all fuses. I tried letting the car run to charge the battery, and also tried a jump start from another car to recharge the battery.
Remember, this all started when I left the keys in the ignition over night
View 5 Replies
Got the following problem with my 2004:
1. Unlocked ny car this morning by use of my remote key and the alarm went off.
2. Got the alarm turned off by locking and unlocking my car several times by use of my remote keys
3. Put the car in reverse and took out of the garage. Parked the car and put the gear stick in P position. The knob on the left side of the gear stick remained in the "in" position where one usually can move the gear stick up and down between the gears.
4. However, I was not able to move the gear stick, and the main display said something in German like "Call the workshop".
5. Locked the car bye use of one of my three remote keys.
6. Later, after trying to solve the gear stick problem by moving the knob and the gear stick in several ways I was not able to lock the car with any of my remote keys. No messages were displayed.
7. I was only able to manually lock the door where I used my key.
The knob on the gear stick is showing scratch marks so someone has tried to do something to it earlier. I have owned the car since easter this year and has not experienced this problem earlier.
The battery on the left side of the car is new, and the batteries were charged for 12 hours two weeks ago. The car has not been driven much since easter, and has only been taken in and out of the garage four times during the last three weeks without being driven.
View 13 Replies
SO the inlaws have I believe a 1996 Explorer XL-not too sure of year-that they will let us use long term if we get it running. Anyway problem is I have the keys, the keys wont turn any of the lock cylinders. I have dumped about a half can of both WD-40 and PB Blaster into all of em and nothing. It has been sitting out back for a year and a half so the battery is so dead. The driver and passenger windows are down about a quarter inch? I want to get in the car without spending any $$ as we will be having twins soon and a free car is too good to pass up.
View 13 Replies
I'm looking for a way to eliminate the door chime when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open. I know there is a way to disable it but I don't want to permanently disable...just sometimes.
A friend found a wiring diagram and installed a toggle switch in the drivers kick panel that basically cuts the power to the chime. His F-150 was a different year than mine and I don't know if the F-150's and F-250 use the same color wiring.
I want to do the same thing but need to know which wire that operates the chime. Which wire or have a wiring diagram for a 2006 F-250.
View 14 Replies
