Honda - Pilot :: Engine Started Getting Hot / Oil Light Came On
May 23, 2013
My honda pilot has 95,000 miles on it and was just serviced a month before I took a trip. It was driving fine and the engine started getting hot. It died as I drove down the exit ramp and the oil light came on just as it died. After towing it to the shop they found white goo in the radiator. See attached photo. They assumed there was a leak with transmission fluid or oil mixing in the radiator. The oil was empty and the transmission fluid was full and clean. When they replaced my motor and radiator they did not find any cracks or area where a leak had occurred. Everyone is puzzled.
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Engine was replaced [no VIN available] 3 mos ago. All ok, runs great but engine light on and get code VTM-4.
Initially there were several other codes [I guess motor replacement is like surgery] with eng light, but mechanic fixed everything, except this persistent VTM-4. Haven't asked him about this code yet. What's happening?
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I have a 2003 pilot with 182k miles on it. Just started having tranny slippage after a tranny code and burnt fluid. Changed it and did this for like the next 3000 miles. It began to start slipping between 2,3 so did a complete flush with new fluid and still same problem. Question is should I pursue the new tranny with upgrades or just look for another vehicle.
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There is an arm that has come loose and is in between the spring in the right rear wheel well area and I cannot find what its called. It comes out from the center of the car and down and has an upside down cup which belongs on a post with 4 little contacts. Additionally, my brake lamp indicator light was intermittently coming on and off after braking. Now that I have put the cup back on, the lamp is off. I want to be sure there isn't anything else missing from this part, but cannot find the name and am concerned as to how it came off its post to begin with.
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We have a 2001 Honda CRV FWD with 115,000 miles on it. Frequently, especially in the winter, the brake light comes on when the vehicle's engine is started and remains on until the car warms up. He have had the local Honda dealer attempt to locate the problem and our local mechanic as well. Both have said they couldn't find anything wrong. The operation of the brakes including the parking brake is otherwise normal.
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Recently the check engine light has started coming on every time I drive on the highway. At approximately the 5th mile of my ride, the light comes on but I cannot detect any symptoms, the car runs great. This rarely if ever happens when driving in the city, only on the interstate. My car is too old to be hooked up to the fancy diagnostic machine. What I should check to resolve this problem? 1995 Honda Odyssey with 279,000+.....
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Our 2003 Honda Pilot with 130K miles recently developed a front end Knock/rattle, which is sustained at about 70 miles per hour. Dealer "couldn't hear the noise". Tried new tires per dealer suggestion- fail! Recently we towed our 2100 lb pop up with it, and it was MUCH louder, and of course sustained at lower speed. Should we even be towing a pop up with a vehicle that has this many miles on it?
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Over the past few months I have been hearing a low sounding vibration that seems to be coming from the drivers side front. It only seems to happen when I am driving on a straight road, but not on the highway. Recently, I have been hearing the sound more frequently and within the last month the front end has been shaking. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that the front sway bar links were broken and the rotors were warped. He said replacing both of these (and the front brake pads) would eliminate both problems. $700 later and not 5 minutes down the road, the low sounding vibration came back! I've been paying attention to when I hear it and it happens on a straight road just as I am approaching 40 mph.
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My 2004 Honda Pilot was leaking oil recently. Diagnosis was problem with rear main seal. I took it to a transmission shop. They replaced the rear main seal and the front motor mount. Within 24 hrs of this repair, I started hearing creaking. I hear the noise when I go to straighten out the wheel after turning a corner.
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I will describe as best as I can. You know when you drive over the rumble strip on the edge of the highway, this is exactly how the car feels. The vehicle was well maintained and I'm the original owner. A little history, I was rear ended a few years ago multi car accident and I was the first vehicle the Mercedes C300 behind me was totaled. I only felt a little bump to be honest. The rear bumper had some damage as well as the quarter panel and a flat tire but no damage to the rim.
I think a short time after is when this started but not right after. I'm thinking that the rear diff was damaged, but I'm not sure how the car feels or what does it do when the diff is going bad. The oil in the diff was changed every 30k. The engine and the transmission seem to be fine. This shudder hits around 40 and sometimes at 60 and it is an awful shake and when I let off on the gas it goes away and sometimes comes right back. Some days it doesn't do it and then some days a lot.
Also, the tires and brakes are new.
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lots of hesitation upon acceleration..used fuel cleaner several times doesn't work ..what would cause this hesitation ?
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While my wife was driving tonight the VSA light went on, the emergency brake light went on, and the "D" for drive was flashing green. She stopped the car and called me. One the Car was in park, it would not go back into the Drive, and it continued to flash green. I've tried pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery. The other issue is that The hazard lights will not work and the turning blinker will not function. I have determined its an electrical issue. Other than that I'm clueless.
I popped the button just below port just below the shifter and manually put in drive and drove it home.
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I needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.
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Whenever my 2004 Honda Pilot gets stuck in traffic, I have to switch it into a lower gear in order to resume forward. Automatic transmission. It's a rebuilt trans that has 60K on it. Transmission fluids at right levels and recently flushed. The car mileage is 198K. I don't have the issue with normal highway and local driving. It is only when I am stuck in traffic.
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Having lived through this scenario, I can only relate what happened to me. The transmission fluid/antifreeze mixture (which was a frothy pink color) was forced out of the overflow tank on the radiator, and the car drove a few miles before there was no more fluid in the transmission and the car stopped moving. We replaced the radiator and flushed it a couple of times to try and get out the transmission fluid, and I did a drain and fill on the transmission every week for a few months to try and get out the antifreeze, since I heard it is very corrosive to the seals in the transmission. So far, I have not had to replace the transmission. This happened on a 2005 Honda Pilot, and it would appear that the transmission is built from the tears of unicorns, stardust, and unobtainium, given the price to replace it.
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What the heck caused this? Something melted through the license plate holder, then through the plastic of the bumper, down to the metal body. A week ago I had the timing belt, plugs and water pump replaced by my mechanic here in Orlando. I didn't notice anything when I picked it up but I didn't really do a visual inspection of the front of the car either since it was parked facing a fence when I picked it up. Since then it has been driven by my wife to work 3 times. While there, she parks against and facing her building with only a row of shrubs in front of her. And at home it's parked in our garage with about a distance of 3 feet from the washing machine. I asked at my repair shop and they said they had no idea what could have caused this other than a diesel truck, however there is no residue typical of a diesel exhaust.
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I have a 2007 Honda Pilot. The low tire pressure indicator and the tire pressure monitoring system indicate that I need air in my right front tire. I have had this professionally checked and my tire pressure is accurate. Do I need to get this fixed or will it do any damage if I leave these indicators as they are?
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I am considering purchasing a used 2005 Honda Pilot EX-L that has a sunroof. When I test drove it the sunroof sounded as though it was partially open even though it was closed. Opening and closing the sunroof did not solve the issue. Nor did cleaning out the sunroof tracks. Before committing to purchase this vehicle I would like to know if there is a way to fix the noise issue from the sunroof?
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This weekend, my 2011 Honda Pilot (12000 mile) started showing "Tighten Fuel cap" sign. I opened the fuel cap & close it again tightly to make sure it is properly closed but the sign did not go away. I tried it couple of times with no success (I even shutdown the engine, restart it). So I was thinking to take it to my dealer after the weekend. But next day, when I start my car again, the sign went away & it did not come again for last 2 days either. Why it happened? Should I be worried?
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When I brake, there is almost an exhale sound. It's kind of a squeak, kind of an exhale. We've had it in to the dealer (under warranty) twice, and they said it's not a problem. I remember something about holding the brake pedal and adjusting it to the side.
I have a 2010 Honda Pilot with about 9,000 miles, but I think the radio question was about another car.
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So I bought a 2005 Honda Pilot which came with 2 keys. The main key has a remote battery (which is dead) and a spare key. Because the battery is dead, we must manually unlock the car door each time we get in. A month ago or so I noticed that the main key was having trouble going in the driver's side door. It would go about half way in and jam. I would try 5-10 times and then eventually it'd go in and turn fine. Sometimes I'd go to the passenger door where it would open with no problem.
We started having the same problem with the key in the ignition, where it would take several times to get the key in the ignition, once in, it would turn fine. At this point, we switched to the passenger key, as we are really tight in the money dept (aren't we all?), and didn't want to pay much money for a slight inconvenience.
Unfortunately we're not having the same trouble with the spare key in the ignition. 5-10 times before it will go in, once in, it starts fine. The main key is still tough on the driver door. The only thing I can think of is it's the keys and the ignition, as it doesn't make sense that it's limited to one or the other since we have problems with both keys..
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