Honda - Pilot :: 2006 - Radio / Entire Dash Turns Off For 2 Seconds Or All Electrical Off And Car Shuts Down
Nov 27, 2012
While driving 1 of 3 issues occur... radio will click off for 2 seconds, entire dash turns off for 2 seconds (car continues to run), or all electric clicks off and car shuts off. If left to sit for a few minutes car will restart. Will occur a bunch of times in one trip and then not for a week. Does not seem to depend on type of driving or weather conditions. Honda cant seem to figure out and until the yesterday they blew me off. Yesterday, the anti-theft actually locked out the radio, so at least they could see "something" occurred.
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So im driving home and i realize one of my headlights are out. I get home and turn them and turn them back on and the headlight turns very dim for a couple of seconds, and then shuts off. What this could be? Ballast or Bulb. I have major modifications done to the wheels wells to fit the wheels, so i don't want to take it to the dealer.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord that I bought used two years ago. Lately, when it rains heavily, the battery light on the dash turns on and the power steering shuts off. I've had to pull over a couple of times. The problem only happens when I drive over 20 mph, solves itself within a minute after I stop, and never happens when it's dry outside. I think the problem has to do with splash from water on the road. What's going on, and how I can fix it? It's pretty dangerous.
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While my wife was driving tonight the VSA light went on, the emergency brake light went on, and the "D" for drive was flashing green. She stopped the car and called me. One the Car was in park, it would not go back into the Drive, and it continued to flash green. I've tried pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery. The other issue is that The hazard lights will not work and the turning blinker will not function. I have determined its an electrical issue. Other than that I'm clueless.
I popped the button just below port just below the shifter and manually put in drive and drove it home.
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I just bought a used 2003 Pilot with 62,000 miles. I quickly noticed a that I hear a faint rumble sound that lasts about 2 seconds at speeds between 30 and 40. It sounds like I ran over a very short and shallow rumble strip. It can happen very quickly as I slowly accelerate. It only happens once, but not every time that I slowly accelerate. It also happen as I am coasting at these speeds. I took it back to the dealer, but they are puzzled. They thought I was crazy until I took them on a test drive and we eventually heard it. They tried adjusting the sway bar, but the sound continues.
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As I am driving everything goes dead radio, windows, dash, alarms, everything then turns on a usually 30 seconds later. is it a ground? is it a sensor that's getting to warm? is it a loose wire? where should I start??
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What could be causing my radio to shut down after five seconds? If it was the fuse, it wouldn't come on at all. I suspect the amp/power supply. What else could it be? I think all of my radio stations have been reset too. 2009 Hyundai Tucson.....
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Less than two weeks ago I had the fuel pump replaced and battery terminals replaced on my 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition (not turbo.) I have almost 90,000 miles and have had very few minor issues all these years.Car stalled while driving, towed it to mechanic, he diagnoses fuel pump failure. So I had him replace fuel pump, and while I was there had battery terminals replaced, since I've dealt with some pesky corrosion recently.
I've never had electrical problems with this car. So here I am a week after repair, I'm driving and hear an electrical pop in the dash, then the radio turns off and back on within a few seconds. Nothing else happened, I chalk it up to a fluke and keep going. Well it happened again yesterday! Exact same "pop" then radio turns off, comes back on in 2-3 seconds.
Both events happened during the day, so I don't know yet if my headlights had been on, would this "pop" have affected lights too? Perhaps.
So what I'd like to know is: when the mechanic was replacing the fuel pump and battery terminals, do those repairs involve him messing with wiring at all? Could he have left a grounding wire disconnected? I've read a little about the fuel pump relay, but I have not been able to confirm that 2006 PT Cruiser has a fuel pump relay. ? Any other theories on what could be shorting out, creating an electrical "pop"?
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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I've been wondering about this issue for about a year now. I haven't torn out the stereo to see if the wiring is jacked up (came with the truck). When I have the truck running and the radio is on I pull the light switch and the radio turns off, then turns back on...... The radio also buzzes when the truck is running, kind of like it has a bad ground but I've checked the grounds and powers and all is good.
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I have a 2002 Honda accord (161k) This summer the entire electrical system would briefly shut down. I could keep driving and the engine never completely quit but it just blinked off and then back on. It seems to do it more in hot weather.
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I needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.
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I recently purchased a used 2006 Honda Pilot. I now notice a mildew/musty smell that appears to come from the ac vents. I only notice it when driving with the windows down, right after I turn the AC off, and sometimes when I first get into the car. I do NOT notice it when the AC is running or when the fan is blowing. I have had the car detailed twice (thinking the odor was coming from the upholstery) and have hired someone to spray an odor eliminator spray into the vents and air intake. I have also changed out the cabin air filter. None of these actions have worked and the smell remains. I love the car but this odor is really annoying me.
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At 120K mi, had ALL the service work done. Changing the trans fluid as well as the 4WD differential was due. A noise in the rear diff began. So the mech said a Honda bulletin stated that this happens sometimes when changing the fluid. Ok. Changed it again. ANYWAY, the noise is still slightly there when going from a stopped position .... steering wheel all the way to one side or the other ... and giving the gas. IS THE REAR DIFF BEING DAMAGED?
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
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Honda accord( 2005), Engine lights off and on, Radio goes off a few seconds and then reboots by itself , ABS lights off and on, car still runs, power seems to be down slightly when engine lights comes on , stalled twice, but restarted right away. Relay switch replaced, PCM replaced( Diagnosis suggested) , problem continues.What should I check next ?
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The radio in my 1991 Honda Civic has been dying a slow death over the past year. First it would stop working if the weather was too hot. Then it would only work sporadically, finally it almost never worked. Whenever the radio stopped working, there would be a loud electrical "pop" sound, so I thought it might have a short. Yesterday my husband fixed the upper rear brake light (cleaned contacts) so it would pass inspection. Now the radio works perfectly! Are the brake lights and radio on the same circuit?
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I have a 2007 GS350 AWD with about 110,000 miles right now. For almost the last year or so it has been burning off some oil. By the time its up for an oil change, it occasionally gives me the engine oil low light. It stays on between a few seconds to a minute and then turns off.
I've been telling this to the local Lexus dealership where i've had all my maintenance done, and they eventually did an oil consumption test. They said it was losing about 1.5 liters after 3,000 miles. They say that is within spec.
This issue came up several times while i was still in my 100,000 mile warranty, but they wouldn't do anything as it was in spec. I don't see how i should get a low engine light warning every 3-4k miles and have been pushing them to do something and cover under warranty since it has been documented as an issue before the warranty ran out. Lexus corporate asked for a compression test (which i had to pay for), the results are below:
Cyc#1: 205 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#2: 200 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#3: 190 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#4: 200 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#5: 205 dry; 210 wet
Cyc#6: 190 dry; 220 wet
After Lexus received the results they asked for, they still said: well the oil consumption is in spec so won't do anything.
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Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.
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I am experiencing a new problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra. For the 2nd time now (meaning this morning) the car will not start the first time in the morning. As I turn the key past the "on" position all the regular lights will come on, bells ding, etc. but when I move the key to the "Start" position, where the car would normally crank over and start, the entire car electrical system dies. (Interior lights off, non-responsive with the keyless entry, etc.) Yesterday, I figured my battery cables might be loose or something like that. By the time I popped the hood (no more than 30-45 sec) everything turned back on. I then tried to start the car again and the car started normally without issues, with me having done nothing other than pop the hood by this time.
When my car sits all day at work and I return to leave it will start normally without problems. This morning is now the 2nd time this has happened. My battery is practically brand new as it was replaced about three weeks ago. So, my question is: What could be causing the car to not start in the morning the first time, but then somehow "fix" itself without any user intervention on my part other than popping the hood?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an issue where my radio turns off and on intermittently. To clarify, it will not turn itself on if the button was off. However, if I'm listening to the radio it can turn itself off and back on again multiple times. This happens on AM/FM/AM and Auxiliary. I'm assuming it happens with CD, but haven't listened to that lately.
Sometimes it happens in rapid succession, other times it's off for five minutes or more and comes back on. Other times it stays off. Sometimes it behaves as it should. It doesn't seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Is this merely a wonky fuse or something more sinister?
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