Honda - Pilot :: 2005 - Replace Timing Belt And Motor Mounts?
Dec 2, 2012
Our pilot is 8 years old but has only 64, 000 miles on it. The dealership is recommending we change motor mounts and timing belt. Although the motor mounts don't seem to be broken and nothing is rattling we have to change the motor mounts due to the fact that the engine is moving more than an inch. Having said that in 6 months we have to put the pilot in long term storage for 3 years. Should we change the timing belt now given the low mileage and the long term storage situation?
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Six months ago my 2005 Honda Pilot got a new timing belt that was incorrectly calibrated. When the Honda Dealer test drove the car, they damaged the values. They fixed the valve damage and gave me a discount on the timing belt. I considered selling the car, but decided to keep it.
Now it's six months later. When driving I hear a "clicking noise". The dealer says that the timing belt tensioner needs to be replaced and that it would be dangerous to drive it at high speed as it is now. The clicking is caused by a worn ??? tensioner.
They claim that the incorrectly calibrated timing belt could not have caused this problem with the tensioner.
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I am working with Honda dealership management because I had my timing belt changed at 102,000 miles and 25,000 miles later The belt broke and frayed while driving in heavy traffic at night on freeway leaving me stranded in the median luckily instead of in the middle of the freeway. Honda dealership stating that the idle tension pulley caused the fraying of the belt not due to poor workmanship by their mechanics. I am asking dealership to consider assisting in payment because the day the belt went out, the car had been serviced for a oil change.
When I was called to be notified the job was complete I asked the service rep questions about the oil transmission and told him there was a noise in the engine could they check it or did they check it which she replied no that I would have to make another appointment for that. So even if I would've made appointment the next day the damage was already done because that night is when the belt broke Is this part of Hondas responsibility is it reasonable for them to take part responsibility. Also if the idol tension pulley had been changed at the same time of the belt, it would've saved my engine. So this is all my responsibility not theirs?
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Going to replace motor mounts. Foot on brake and placed in gear engine flexes back about 2". Doesn't seem to flex side to side or forward. Replaced dog bone the metal in the middle of the bushing had a visible crack. Still flexes. I am confused about replacing them. Should I replace all including the 2 rear mounts? This is what I have read in many posts and been told by a trans shop. Can I just replace the front and dog bone? Parts guy told me that was all that I needed to do if it wasn't flexing side to side. These things are expensive 170- ea for oems so if I don't have to replace the rear I won't. However I don't want to trash the new ones cause I didn't replace them all.
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I was just curious and bored this morning. So I wanted to ask you all what mileage did you replace your timing belt at?
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Of those out there whose Timing Belts HAVE failed , at what mileage have they gone bad and what damage was done?. This would be good to know to give an idea as to when to replace the Timing Belt.
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I purchased a 2004 volvo c-70 with 35K miles.The manual says to replace the timing belt at 100k or 10 years.With such low miles do I need to replace it in 2014?
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Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
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We just bought a 1995 Toyota 4Runner that has 195,000 miles. We bought it for a 4wd vehicle to take over the passes and go hunting, but we have been driving it regularly because we like it. I read in the manual that under heavy idling conditions the timing belt should be changed every 60,000 miles but it does not say for regular driving. The previous owners had work done on the timing belt at 96,000 miles.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester with 44,000 miles. How will I know when to replace the timing belt? Is it more a question of miles or age?
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I have a 2009 Elantra (automatic) that already has 52K miles on it. I drive a lot mostly at highway speeds. I know several people who recommend having the timing belt replaced BEFORE the warranty runs out at 60K miles.
The dealership has a 60K inspection where they "inspect" the timing belt (plus a whole lot of "fluff" checks, tire rotation etc) I'd rather just take it in and get it replaced. What should a timing belt replacement cost?
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I have an '05 Dodge Neon SXT (4.0) with 113,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I had three cracked motor mounts replaced. However, I'm experiencing an increased amount of vibration when the engine is idle. I've had the timing belt , the accessory belt, water pump and valve replaced within the last year. I also recently had a coolant flush and an oil change. I was told that the timing belt cover is broken and I intend to have that fixed in the near future. However, I do not believe the timing belt cover is the cause of the vibration since it was broken and did not cause vibration before the motor mounts were replaced. Why I having the vibration?
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I have just bought a 2000 passat 1.8t. The car had broken timing belt so i was just planning to replace the timing belt but there is another issue. When i was disassembling the radiator support I took off the intercooler but there was a lot of motor oil so I am not quite sure what is the problem. And do have to rebuild the engine or replace the cylinder head because of the broken timing timing belt. The belt was actually not broken only belt teeth are gone so I think that piston and valves might crashed.
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In the process of rebuilding a 2007 Accent where the timing belt broke while idling.
Pulled the head, ran a "water test" on the valves (put spark plug in, pour water on the valves and see if it comes out the exhaust/intake side) and found that only 2 intake valves were belt. Also shut off all the lights in a pitch black room, shined a flashlight in the intake/exhaust and didn't see any light leak from any of the cylinders except the one with the 2 bent valves.
Does this make sense? I would assume since 2 cylinders are always TDC at once, at least 4 valves would be bent.
Lastly, before rebuild I'll be replacing the 2 intake valves, all the valve stem seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, head bolts and valve cover gasket. Anything else I should replace on the head? Trying to keep costs down as much as possible.
To add: Pistons have no damage on them, there are no marks of the valves hitting the pistons. The timing belt was replaced after it broke and the engine still ran however it ran rough. Compression test was done on only cylinder 1&2, 1 had 60 PSI and 2 had 0 PSI. Compression test was also done by just rotating the crank with a socket since I already had some of the engine disassembled.
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My 2005 Honda Pilot has 125k miles and has developed an occasional clunking sound from the rear suspension. It seems to happen around sharp turns or when the rear suspension is unloaded, like hopping over railroad tracks, or when going over short/sharp bumps. It is inconsistent, in that it does not happen all the time. I was checking and checking for loose parts for months and tugging on suspension parts like arms, links, sway bar, etc. I find nothing loose or clunking or showing signs of loose connections.
Today, I was checking with the car on jack stands and found the "hubs" or sheetmetal covers that the CV boots are clamped to are loose at the differential. I believe this is the sound of the noise. They rotate with the rear wheels and kind of clunk around with some manual pressure applied.
Are they a typical source of trouble? Are they easy to replace? Are they nothing to worry about or is this a precursor to the axles falling out?
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So here it is. My car wouldn't start, when i turn the key i hear a click, but the engine wont even turn over. Knee-jerk reaction was the battery, so i hooked up the battery to a charger. tried the quick jump setting, nothing. So i trickle charged it all night, nothing. I had the battery checked by O'Reilly Auto Parts, they said it was fine and fully charged (it better be after a night long charge!) Next i thought the starter, so i replaced the starter and still, when i turn the key the car wont even turn over. I heard it could be the solenoid, would this make sense? I also heard (or read rather in an answer to a similar question on this forum) that if it is the solenoid that you can tap the starter with a hammer while you try to start the car- still, it makes a single click when i turn the key and wont turn over.
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I have a 2005 Honda Pilot that has developed a bad leak. The floor on the driver and passenger side gets wet. The driver side is usually damp and the passenger side floor is soaked, squishy, like a wet sponge. I have taken apart the dash and cleaned out the AC ducts and replaced the filter. I found some small leaves, not a lot. No luck, still wet. I took off the plastic cowl under the windshield, it was really clean there, no leaves or junk and no signs of water there at all. Still gets wet.
The area that is wet is right along the rocker panel near the plastic cover for the door sill, on both driver and passenger sides of the car. The carpet is only wet in the front seat "foot wells", not the back seat areas. I looked at the seals, they seem to be working fine and cannot find anyplace water could be getting in. Either from the top side or underneath. I thought it was drying out then we got lots of rain the other day and the passenger side is saturated and the driver side is damp again. Not sure if it was from driving or sitting in teh driveway/parking lot at work. The car is starting to smell!
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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1999 Honda Accord EX, 224K miles, 4 cylinder. Timing belt broke yesterday and ruined some exhaust valves. Also needs new radiator. Should I spend quoted approx $3500 for fixed cylinder head and valves, 30K mile check (plugs, valve adj etc), new radiator, might also include piston rings, not sure? Completely trust the mechanic. Other recent work already done is one new front wheel bearing and axle, new bearing boots on both sides, oxygen sensor, new clutch a year ago. Interior/exterior are in good shape. How many more miles am I likely to get on this engine if I have the work done? Will I likely need ball joints replaced soon? Anything else I should be considering?
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 with 101,000 miles - I am the second owner and the car was meticulously maintained and garage kept by the original owners. I need to have the timing belt replaced and am wondering if I should have the water pump and/or other parts replaced during this repair? Economic prudence is of the essence.
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My driver side power window on my '05 Honda Pilot is not working. Checked all fuses and none are blown. At first I thought it may be the window regulator/motor. I got an new aftermarket regulator/motor set and connected it to the 6-pin control and power cable to test it prior to installation. It did move when I hit the switch. BUT the power window control unit (magic black box in driver side door) clicked when I try to use the failed driver side window. I understand that this control unit also controls the other windows and they all work just fine AND the control unit does NOT click when I lower/raise those other windows. Do I have a bad power window control unit? Is it suppose to click when I lower the driver side window (and not click with other windows)? Could it be something else? I did check the output voltage to the driver window regulator and it did not have the required 12 V to run the motor when switch is activated.
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