Honda - Pilot :: 2005 - Clunking Sound From Rear Suspension
Aug 15, 2016
My 2005 Honda Pilot has 125k miles and has developed an occasional clunking sound from the rear suspension. It seems to happen around sharp turns or when the rear suspension is unloaded, like hopping over railroad tracks, or when going over short/sharp bumps. It is inconsistent, in that it does not happen all the time. I was checking and checking for loose parts for months and tugging on suspension parts like arms, links, sway bar, etc. I find nothing loose or clunking or showing signs of loose connections.
Today, I was checking with the car on jack stands and found the "hubs" or sheetmetal covers that the CV boots are clamped to are loose at the differential. I believe this is the sound of the noise. They rotate with the rear wheels and kind of clunk around with some manual pressure applied.
Are they a typical source of trouble? Are they easy to replace? Are they nothing to worry about or is this a precursor to the axles falling out?
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I have an '05 Honda Pilot that is experiencing the following symptoms:
1 - sound of liquid moving (coming from under the hood) when the vehicle is idle or in motion.
2 - temperature gauge on dash reading high when vehicle has been in idle for a while.
3 - sound of fans running (I think) under the hood after the vehicle has been turned off.
I will take it in to a mechanic....
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I have a 2002 accord 4-cyl with a 5-speed with 89,xxx miles. Just a few months ago, I noticed a clunking sound coming from the front suspension when I go over certain bumps. "Certain" bumps are usually wavy pavement or dips (not wide dips, but short/concise ones), and sometimes certain speed bumps. Sometimes the sound happens regardless of the types of bumps though, but the aforementioned ones usually bring the noise quite consistently. The sound hasn't really gotten worse, but it hasn't been getting better either.
A while back when I had my timing belt done, the mechanic stated that one (or more) of my engine mounts were worn. Is it possible one or more of my engine mounts is the source of this issue (from the engine "rattling" around in the compartment. I'm not sure if that's even possible, just a hypothesis) or is it purely suspension. PS. The sound isn't quite a sharp metal on metal sound. Its more of a "thump" or "clunk" coming from the front end (left or right) as if its bottoming out or a bushing or spacer has worn off. Its just loud enough to drive me crazy, and sometimes I can feel it through the floor.
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The last couple winter's we've experienced a significant "clunking" sound when placing the van from Park to Reverse. It doesn't do this by moving the gear shift from Park to Drive or Neutral. This only happens when the engine is cold and has been sitting for several hours. Outside temps below 35-40 degrees. Don't have the problem in Spring, Summer, or Fall. We have 177K miles. Transmission fluid/filter has been changed regularly by my mechanic according to Honda's instructions.
No problems with the transmission or engine since we've owned the vehicle, and we've been the only owners. No leaking found. Honda thought the problem could be a rear engine mount. Just had another local mechanic (I'm 65 miles from the nearest Honda dealer) whom we trust replace the Rear Transmission Mount. Still have the clunking noise, and you can really feel it too. It's been a great van for us, and we'd like to keep it another 50K, if possible.
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I recently got an MK7, coming from a MK5, and I installed the VWR springs 8 days ago. Since then I've noticed an intermittent clunking sound coming from the rear suspension. I installed springs on my MKV without any issues and again on several other cars, soIi'm familiar with the process. Everything was torqued to spec after the install.
My best description of the sound would be a clunk, not any rattling, clicking, or squealing. The sound is greater in the passenger side rear than the drivers side rear. No issues with anything up front. Sometimes it occurs when I'm turning the steering wheel while backing out of parking spots and driving slowly, other times when I hit bumps in the road, but it is not constant nor does it seem dependent on the size of the bump/pot holes in the road.
What may be causing this? My plan was to give it a week for everything to settle before I tore everything apart to look for any culprit.
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So here it is. My car wouldn't start, when i turn the key i hear a click, but the engine wont even turn over. Knee-jerk reaction was the battery, so i hooked up the battery to a charger. tried the quick jump setting, nothing. So i trickle charged it all night, nothing. I had the battery checked by O'Reilly Auto Parts, they said it was fine and fully charged (it better be after a night long charge!) Next i thought the starter, so i replaced the starter and still, when i turn the key the car wont even turn over. I heard it could be the solenoid, would this make sense? I also heard (or read rather in an answer to a similar question on this forum) that if it is the solenoid that you can tap the starter with a hammer while you try to start the car- still, it makes a single click when i turn the key and wont turn over.
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I have a 2005 Honda Pilot that has developed a bad leak. The floor on the driver and passenger side gets wet. The driver side is usually damp and the passenger side floor is soaked, squishy, like a wet sponge. I have taken apart the dash and cleaned out the AC ducts and replaced the filter. I found some small leaves, not a lot. No luck, still wet. I took off the plastic cowl under the windshield, it was really clean there, no leaves or junk and no signs of water there at all. Still gets wet.
The area that is wet is right along the rocker panel near the plastic cover for the door sill, on both driver and passenger sides of the car. The carpet is only wet in the front seat "foot wells", not the back seat areas. I looked at the seals, they seem to be working fine and cannot find anyplace water could be getting in. Either from the top side or underneath. I thought it was drying out then we got lots of rain the other day and the passenger side is saturated and the driver side is damp again. Not sure if it was from driving or sitting in teh driveway/parking lot at work. The car is starting to smell!
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I own a 2004 Honda Pilot with 91,000 miles. I have all fluids changed at required or better intervals. At approximately 70,000 miles, my car started making a strange vibration sound when I would hit 45-47 mph and immediately stops once I hit 50mph. My husband says it sound as though we're driving over a very mild rumble strip (as in a toll gate). We did take it to a mechanic, and naturally, it didn't make the noise then. Now it consistently makes this noise.
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My driver side power window on my '05 Honda Pilot is not working. Checked all fuses and none are blown. At first I thought it may be the window regulator/motor. I got an new aftermarket regulator/motor set and connected it to the 6-pin control and power cable to test it prior to installation. It did move when I hit the switch. BUT the power window control unit (magic black box in driver side door) clicked when I try to use the failed driver side window. I understand that this control unit also controls the other windows and they all work just fine AND the control unit does NOT click when I lower/raise those other windows. Do I have a bad power window control unit? Is it suppose to click when I lower the driver side window (and not click with other windows)? Could it be something else? I did check the output voltage to the driver window regulator and it did not have the required 12 V to run the motor when switch is activated.
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There is an arm that has come loose and is in between the spring in the right rear wheel well area and I cannot find what its called. It comes out from the center of the car and down and has an upside down cup which belongs on a post with 4 little contacts. Additionally, my brake lamp indicator light was intermittently coming on and off after braking. Now that I have put the cup back on, the lamp is off. I want to be sure there isn't anything else missing from this part, but cannot find the name and am concerned as to how it came off its post to begin with.
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Our pilot is 8 years old but has only 64, 000 miles on it. The dealership is recommending we change motor mounts and timing belt. Although the motor mounts don't seem to be broken and nothing is rattling we have to change the motor mounts due to the fact that the engine is moving more than an inch. Having said that in 6 months we have to put the pilot in long term storage for 3 years. Should we change the timing belt now given the low mileage and the long term storage situation?
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At 120K mi, had ALL the service work done. Changing the trans fluid as well as the 4WD differential was due. A noise in the rear diff began. So the mech said a Honda bulletin stated that this happens sometimes when changing the fluid. Ok. Changed it again. ANYWAY, the noise is still slightly there when going from a stopped position .... steering wheel all the way to one side or the other ... and giving the gas. IS THE REAR DIFF BEING DAMAGED?
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I have a 2003 Honda Pilot with 117,947 miles on it. When I reach 40 mph there is a shuttering sound that vibrates through the front floor boards. Took it to a Honda dealer and they could not duplicate the issue. It happened intermittently. Does not appear to be related to outside temperature or level of gas in tank. What the issue may be for the shuttering?
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I have a Honda PIlot 2011 which I took to my local Shell service shop . The code the car showed was B1236. One of the many things they did was to change the differential fluid. After I picked up the car from the shop, I noticed a slight sound from the rear wheels when I would make a right turn. I took it back to the shop and had them look at it. We did a few sharp right and left turns and we heard nothing. I drove the car away and a few days later noticed the sound to be more noticeable. At this time, I took it to my Honda Dealer. They noticed that the fluid in the rear differential did not seem to be right one and the sound was because of that . Can a wrong fluid damage the rear differential? They are also recommending that we change the rear differential which off course is extremely pricy.
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I have a clunking noise from the right front suspension when going over bumps. I've replaced the Strut bushings that were collapsed, the control arm bushings that had play and the noise is still there. There is no play in the links. There is a slight noise in the sway bar bushings when struck with a rubber mallet. I hate to keep replacing parts chasing down this noise.
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Today, I took my 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T with 67,000 miles on it to a local mechanic to check the right front suspension that has been making a clunking sound when hitting potholes, etc. I was told that the right front coil spring is broken. This afternoon, I looked on line on some of the Saab discussion boards and saw that for cars up 2006 that there was an extended warranty offered for 10 years and 120,000 miles due to multiple cars with this problem caused by an, allegedly, faulty design that allowed the springs to corrode and fail prematurely in snow belt states that salt the roads.
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Why my suspension is so loud and clunky are doing a swaybar link and upper control arm replacement? I did remove the air suspension unit in order to access and remove the bolts that hold the upper control arm bracket mount onto the frame.
I did not think that would do any harm. Now my suspension is way louder than it ever was to begin with.. I just did a visual inspection and saw that my original parts were cracked and worn in the bushings and links. So I did a swap.
Suspension LS460 - YouTube
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I have noticed since I got the car( 6 months ago), when ever I have passengers in the back seats i hear a clunking noise coming from the right rear suspension area.
( I don't know if this is from the suspension or not and I only notice this noise when there are passengers in the back). The clunking noise is really annoying.
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Noticed this rear suspension noise on their RX330's. Every time I go up a slanted driveway (driving into a driveway at an angle, not head on), there is a clunking noise coming from the right rear of the car. The sounds it makes is almost as if I the spare tire is lose hitting on the right side of the car. This only happens if I am driving into a driveway coming from the right side, the sounds does not happen if I am entering my driveway from the left side.
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I have a 2009 Escape that has developed a clunking noise in the right rear. On any bumpy roads it sounds like the shock tower lost it's top bushing but it could also be coming from somewhere lower. It also seems like the truck drifts to the right on bumpy left hand turns, kind of scary.
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My mechanic said clunking sound from rear of car is caused by watts link. He suggests replacing watts bell crank and upper and lower linkage. Do the two linkages need to be replaced since they appear to be metal rods.
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