Honda - Pilot :: 2005 - Brake Lamp Indicator Light Came On Intermittently?
May 1, 2014
There is an arm that has come loose and is in between the spring in the right rear wheel well area and I cannot find what its called. It comes out from the center of the car and down and has an upside down cup which belongs on a post with 4 little contacts. Additionally, my brake lamp indicator light was intermittently coming on and off after braking. Now that I have put the cup back on, the lamp is off. I want to be sure there isn't anything else missing from this part, but cannot find the name and am concerned as to how it came off its post to begin with.
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I have a 2007 Honda Pilot. The low tire pressure indicator and the tire pressure monitoring system indicate that I need air in my right front tire. I have had this professionally checked and my tire pressure is accurate. Do I need to get this fixed or will it do any damage if I leave these indicators as they are?
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My 2010 BMW 335i is at 25,000 miles and the brake pad indicator lamp is on. Is a full brake job necessary? Any estimates?
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I pulled my 2005 Prius out of the garage today and parked it on the driveway. When I went back later that day to pull it back under the garage, nothing would work and the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" came on. I was thinking my battery in my key had gone bad and replaced it. When I tried to start the car for the second time the engine would not turnover, the clock light looked dim, the locks would not work and my headlights would not come on.
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I drive a 2000 VW Golf with 148K miles on it. One Saturday this summer my brake indicator light started lighting and beeping intermittently as I was driving. My brakes were operating fine so I did not read my owners manual until I reached my home. It indicated that I needed to have a qualified mechanic check it immediately but as it was almost 4 o'clock in the afternoon I couldn't find a mechanic in any gas station or garage. As I had a 200 mile drive to do the next day, I purchased brake fluid and carefully followed all of the directions for checking and filling my brake fluid.
However, when I took the cap off of the reservoir, the reservoir really looked fine and I was only able to add about a teaspoon max of brake fluid. However, when I tried driving the car, it seemed that the problem was solved as the brake indicator light did not come on again. Approximately 3 months later now the brake indicator light is intermittently going on again: about every other day. It goes on and then shortly after it goes off and then it doesn't come on again for a day or two.
Inasmuch as I added such a small amount of brake fluid last time I'm really not sure that the problem is actually with the fluid. I wondered if perhaps it was more of a vacuum problem or that by opening the reservoir some air escaped or something of that nature. I also wonder if possibly there's a component that's giving a false reading. At any rate, I'm a little white-haired old lady and there's a limit to what I can do on my car myself and I'm also a target whenever I go into a shop to get the most expensive diagnosis and fix. I'd like to go in to a shop with good information so that it doesn't become an expensive fishing expedition. What could be causing this?
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Car is running fine.. I cant tell any changes in the car at all. Going to the dealer to get fixed and also make them fix my darn headliner that has supposedly been on backorder for 3 months now.
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I bought a 2001 Prius from a private seller after they had just replaced the Hybrid battery with a Gen II battery and it has been running great until the last few days.
First the Malfunction Indicator Lamp and Master Warning Light came on and my husband and I took it to a dealer. The dealer said the error code was P3000 but didn't know more than that. He said he didn't know if the v12 battery currently in the car is the correct battery and he said it looked like it wasn't secured correctly. He said I would have to take it somewhere else to have it worked on.
When we picked up the car everything was normal again and none of the warning indicators came on. After driving it for about 80 miles both warning indicators came on again. I continued driving the car 15 miles, turned it off for about 5 hours and when I turned it on again only the Malfunction Indicator Lamp came on. At first my gas mileage was unaffected but now it has decreased slightly. I usually get about 41 mpg and I'm getting about 37-38 mpg since we picked up the car.
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My 2005 Honda Pilot has 125k miles and has developed an occasional clunking sound from the rear suspension. It seems to happen around sharp turns or when the rear suspension is unloaded, like hopping over railroad tracks, or when going over short/sharp bumps. It is inconsistent, in that it does not happen all the time. I was checking and checking for loose parts for months and tugging on suspension parts like arms, links, sway bar, etc. I find nothing loose or clunking or showing signs of loose connections.
Today, I was checking with the car on jack stands and found the "hubs" or sheetmetal covers that the CV boots are clamped to are loose at the differential. I believe this is the sound of the noise. They rotate with the rear wheels and kind of clunk around with some manual pressure applied.
Are they a typical source of trouble? Are they easy to replace? Are they nothing to worry about or is this a precursor to the axles falling out?
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So here it is. My car wouldn't start, when i turn the key i hear a click, but the engine wont even turn over. Knee-jerk reaction was the battery, so i hooked up the battery to a charger. tried the quick jump setting, nothing. So i trickle charged it all night, nothing. I had the battery checked by O'Reilly Auto Parts, they said it was fine and fully charged (it better be after a night long charge!) Next i thought the starter, so i replaced the starter and still, when i turn the key the car wont even turn over. I heard it could be the solenoid, would this make sense? I also heard (or read rather in an answer to a similar question on this forum) that if it is the solenoid that you can tap the starter with a hammer while you try to start the car- still, it makes a single click when i turn the key and wont turn over.
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I have a 2005 Honda Pilot that has developed a bad leak. The floor on the driver and passenger side gets wet. The driver side is usually damp and the passenger side floor is soaked, squishy, like a wet sponge. I have taken apart the dash and cleaned out the AC ducts and replaced the filter. I found some small leaves, not a lot. No luck, still wet. I took off the plastic cowl under the windshield, it was really clean there, no leaves or junk and no signs of water there at all. Still gets wet.
The area that is wet is right along the rocker panel near the plastic cover for the door sill, on both driver and passenger sides of the car. The carpet is only wet in the front seat "foot wells", not the back seat areas. I looked at the seals, they seem to be working fine and cannot find anyplace water could be getting in. Either from the top side or underneath. I thought it was drying out then we got lots of rain the other day and the passenger side is saturated and the driver side is damp again. Not sure if it was from driving or sitting in teh driveway/parking lot at work. The car is starting to smell!
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On my way home from work tonight, the master warning light and the check engine (malfunction indicator lamp) appeared on the dashboard, and the hybrid system warning light has popped up on the multi-informational display.
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My driver side power window on my '05 Honda Pilot is not working. Checked all fuses and none are blown. At first I thought it may be the window regulator/motor. I got an new aftermarket regulator/motor set and connected it to the 6-pin control and power cable to test it prior to installation. It did move when I hit the switch. BUT the power window control unit (magic black box in driver side door) clicked when I try to use the failed driver side window. I understand that this control unit also controls the other windows and they all work just fine AND the control unit does NOT click when I lower/raise those other windows. Do I have a bad power window control unit? Is it suppose to click when I lower the driver side window (and not click with other windows)? Could it be something else? I did check the output voltage to the driver window regulator and it did not have the required 12 V to run the motor when switch is activated.
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Our pilot is 8 years old but has only 64, 000 miles on it. The dealership is recommending we change motor mounts and timing belt. Although the motor mounts don't seem to be broken and nothing is rattling we have to change the motor mounts due to the fact that the engine is moving more than an inch. Having said that in 6 months we have to put the pilot in long term storage for 3 years. Should we change the timing belt now given the low mileage and the long term storage situation?
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I have an '05 Honda Pilot that is experiencing the following symptoms:
1 - sound of liquid moving (coming from under the hood) when the vehicle is idle or in motion.
2 - temperature gauge on dash reading high when vehicle has been in idle for a while.
3 - sound of fans running (I think) under the hood after the vehicle has been turned off.
I will take it in to a mechanic....
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My honda pilot has 95,000 miles on it and was just serviced a month before I took a trip. It was driving fine and the engine started getting hot. It died as I drove down the exit ramp and the oil light came on just as it died. After towing it to the shop they found white goo in the radiator. See attached photo. They assumed there was a leak with transmission fluid or oil mixing in the radiator. The oil was empty and the transmission fluid was full and clean. When they replaced my motor and radiator they did not find any cracks or area where a leak had occurred. Everyone is puzzled.
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Engine was replaced [no VIN available] 3 mos ago. All ok, runs great but engine light on and get code VTM-4.
Initially there were several other codes [I guess motor replacement is like surgery] with eng light, but mechanic fixed everything, except this persistent VTM-4. Haven't asked him about this code yet. What's happening?
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In my one-owner purchased-new 2005 Prius w/ 74K miles and w/ no maintenance/accident history other than doing all scheduled maintenances at Toyota Dealers along w/ recalls applicable at each time (other than we had Toyota replace the 12V battery last year just because I knew it would die at some point anyway and I don't like pushing my luck; I'm not 100% certain if there's been a recall on any water pump for this car and if so, don't believe the dealer has mentioned it), I have the following indicators which appeared all at once while I was driving along at around 45 MPH in no unusual circumstances (80F, dry afternoon, about 30 minutes into a trip of mixed speeds, no loads in the vehicle, no effect on the car while driving):
From Left to Right on the display:
1) Red Triangle - Master Warning Light
2) Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3) Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light (but it didn't highlight the word 'Brake' in red)
4) Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
On the Screen:
Orange Car w/ the ! symbol - Hybrid System Warning Light
We immediately aimed for the house (about 5 miles away); the car drove perfectly fine, with the engine stopping and starting at lights as needed, with speeds going from the 55MPH we were traveling at the time of the alarms down to 0 and back up thru 35/45 MPH and such per normal off-interstate driving. The battery currently shows all the blue bars, and the engine and hybrid systems showed charge/discharge as usual as we drove. There was no discernible change in the driving reaction of the car to brake, steering, accelerator, etc.
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This has happened twice now, about a month ago and then again today.
I was stopped at a light with my foot on the brake. There is a clunk noise, then the indicator light comes on.
The first time I tried to go, and the car stayed put. I hit the parking button, then went back into gear, no problem.
The second time I just put it in park and then back to gear. No problem.
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I have the "check stop lamp" message showing up. Both right and left brake lights are fine but the third brake light is totally out. I've heard of other Volvos having issues with the wiring harness near the hinge.
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My 2004 Prius won't start for the first time in its 45,000 miles. First try only the malfunction indicator lamp went on. After a pause and a few tries later, the fuel gauge and gear indicator cluster flashed on and off while I was attempting to start (fuel indicator racing across its grid and gear indicators outlined with "dotted" lines -- tank is 1/2 full BTW).
Later tries got no response except the malfunction lamp. I tried both keys in the ignition, also checked door lock functions, and found the keys will still lock the doors, but the click is noticeably weak and the unlock function doesn't work.
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 34,000 miles. While I was driving yesterday the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I returned home (was 20 miles away), but did not notice anything wrong while driving. Thanks to Priuschat, I found discussions that said to check if the gas cap was on correctly; sure enough, mine was not on tightly. I've just put the cap back on, but when I started the car, the malfunction indicator still came on. Will the warning light clear on it's own (if the problem was the gas cap).
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