I drive a 2004 Honda Pilot with 110,000 miles. At low speeds (less than 30 mph) over a bumpy road, the car undercarriage will vibrate violently. It happens only occasionally and stops immediately when I slow down. I assume it's a suspension problem but not sure of the exact cause. I also can't figure out why it doesn't happen all the time under those same conditions.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2004 Honda Pilot with 91,000 miles. I have all fluids changed at required or better intervals. At approximately 70,000 miles, my car started making a strange vibration sound when I would hit 45-47 mph and immediately stops once I hit 50mph. My husband says it sound as though we're driving over a very mild rumble strip (as in a toll gate). We did take it to a mechanic, and naturally, it didn't make the noise then. Now it consistently makes this noise.
View 5 Replies1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 VW tiguan 2.0T that vibrates violently when i hit 60mph, I mean pretty hard to the point where it doesn't feel safe to keep accelerating and everything inside not attached starts to rattle. Regardless Ive driven it to 100+ to see if it vibrates on higher gears and it does. I also have cruised on neutral downhills and stills vibrates the same.
So far this is what I have had it:
-Aligned and balanced tires twice.
-Had inspected and replaced both of the axles with new OEM parts.
-Had overall suspension inspected and everything seems fine.
-Checked the bearings by two different professionals, one used a dynamometer. came out fine
So far nothing has worked, and I am afraid or actually in denial that it might be something major with the transmission. I've researched and read various post around the web but i have not found anything beyond checking and/or replacing the the aforementioned parts.
I inadvertently hit 85 mph driving on an downhill interstate road and the vibration stopped, but came back again as soon as I slowed down to 60-80. Lets me to believe that there is something wrong with one of the transmission gears, probably 3th or 4th.
Whenever my 2004 Honda Pilot gets stuck in traffic, I have to switch it into a lower gear in order to resume forward. Automatic transmission. It's a rebuilt trans that has 60K on it. Transmission fluids at right levels and recently flushed. The car mileage is 198K. I don't have the issue with normal highway and local driving. It is only when I am stuck in traffic.
View 1 RepliesEngine was replaced [no VIN available] 3 mos ago. All ok, runs great but engine light on and get code VTM-4.
Initially there were several other codes [I guess motor replacement is like surgery] with eng light, but mechanic fixed everything, except this persistent VTM-4. Haven't asked him about this code yet. What's happening?
After air filter change our 2004 Honda Pilot mileage was reduced by 50% (got about 11 mpg on interstate and we used to get 24 mpg). I checked tire pressure and they were low, so I inflated them. I have a code reader, and the car is showing no error codes.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford F150. The engine sometimes quits when I slow down to stop for a stop sign or slow down to make a turn. I shift into neutral and it starts up and I am on my way again. This is an intermittent problem. Of course, it has never done this for a mechanic. It will happen 6 or 7 times in one day, and then won't fail for 2 or 3 days. The Ford dealership has replaced the air flow sensor. Did not work. They now think it is the throttle body that should be replaced. I am reluctant to replace this as they are not getting any codes from the computer telling them it is failing. They are not getting any codes related to this issue at all.
View 1 RepliesOften my car would vibrate when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign. Is that normal for all cars that have aged? My car is 2008 and have ~70k miles. Is there something going bad or is there some maintenance that I should be doing and missed?
View 13 RepliesOur 2003 Honda Pilot with 130K miles recently developed a front end Knock/rattle, which is sustained at about 70 miles per hour. Dealer "couldn't hear the noise". Tried new tires per dealer suggestion- fail! Recently we towed our 2100 lb pop up with it, and it was MUCH louder, and of course sustained at lower speed. Should we even be towing a pop up with a vehicle that has this many miles on it?
View 2 RepliesOver the past few months I have been hearing a low sounding vibration that seems to be coming from the drivers side front. It only seems to happen when I am driving on a straight road, but not on the highway. Recently, I have been hearing the sound more frequently and within the last month the front end has been shaking. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that the front sway bar links were broken and the rotors were warped. He said replacing both of these (and the front brake pads) would eliminate both problems. $700 later and not 5 minutes down the road, the low sounding vibration came back! I've been paying attention to when I hear it and it happens on a straight road just as I am approaching 40 mph.
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 Honda Pilot was leaking oil recently. Diagnosis was problem with rear main seal. I took it to a transmission shop. They replaced the rear main seal and the front motor mount. Within 24 hrs of this repair, I started hearing creaking. I hear the noise when I go to straighten out the wheel after turning a corner.
View 2 RepliesI will describe as best as I can. You know when you drive over the rumble strip on the edge of the highway, this is exactly how the car feels. The vehicle was well maintained and I'm the original owner. A little history, I was rear ended a few years ago multi car accident and I was the first vehicle the Mercedes C300 behind me was totaled. I only felt a little bump to be honest. The rear bumper had some damage as well as the quarter panel and a flat tire but no damage to the rim.
I think a short time after is when this started but not right after. I'm thinking that the rear diff was damaged, but I'm not sure how the car feels or what does it do when the diff is going bad. The oil in the diff was changed every 30k. The engine and the transmission seem to be fine. This shudder hits around 40 and sometimes at 60 and it is an awful shake and when I let off on the gas it goes away and sometimes comes right back. Some days it doesn't do it and then some days a lot.
Also, the tires and brakes are new.
lots of hesitation upon acceleration..used fuel cleaner several times doesn't work ..what would cause this hesitation ?
View 5 RepliesMy honda pilot has 95,000 miles on it and was just serviced a month before I took a trip. It was driving fine and the engine started getting hot. It died as I drove down the exit ramp and the oil light came on just as it died. After towing it to the shop they found white goo in the radiator. See attached photo. They assumed there was a leak with transmission fluid or oil mixing in the radiator. The oil was empty and the transmission fluid was full and clean. When they replaced my motor and radiator they did not find any cracks or area where a leak had occurred. Everyone is puzzled.
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
I've got a 2004 Honda Civic with the 1.7L engine. I drive for about five miles and the engine stops suddenly but only for a half-second then runs again like normal. At the same time, there is a click - click behind my glove box. Relays I'm almost sure. And the way it happens is :click > engine stopsclick > engine continues running normally. Used to happen only on hot days, now it does when it's cool out once the engine is warmed up.
After it does this over and over about 6 times the Check Engine Light comes on and it doesn't jerk so hard, but stumbles kinda mildly, but all the time - though usually by this time I have gotten off the road and am swearing loudly.The Honda mechanics are running the clock RIGHT NOW and it may cost me a fortune - Also, there is no error code showing. Nothing. And I also replaced some relays, to no avail, because I read about cracked solder problems someplace...
My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
View 8 RepliesWhile my wife was driving tonight the VSA light went on, the emergency brake light went on, and the "D" for drive was flashing green. She stopped the car and called me. One the Car was in park, it would not go back into the Drive, and it continued to flash green. I've tried pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery. The other issue is that The hazard lights will not work and the turning blinker will not function. I have determined its an electrical issue. Other than that I'm clueless.
I popped the button just below port just below the shifter and manually put in drive and drove it home.
I needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.
Having lived through this scenario, I can only relate what happened to me. The transmission fluid/antifreeze mixture (which was a frothy pink color) was forced out of the overflow tank on the radiator, and the car drove a few miles before there was no more fluid in the transmission and the car stopped moving. We replaced the radiator and flushed it a couple of times to try and get out the transmission fluid, and I did a drain and fill on the transmission every week for a few months to try and get out the antifreeze, since I heard it is very corrosive to the seals in the transmission. So far, I have not had to replace the transmission. This happened on a 2005 Honda Pilot, and it would appear that the transmission is built from the tears of unicorns, stardust, and unobtainium, given the price to replace it.
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