Honda - Odyssey - Airconditioning :: 2007 - A/C Not Bowing Cold Air - Coolant Leak?
Aug 18, 2013
Mid- july I had the compressor rebuilt when the A/C suddenly started blowing warm air one week prior to a 1200 mile road trip.
Two weeks later the car wouldn't start. The battery (still under warranty) checked out as "good" was charged up and started the car fine. It needed an oil change before we headed home and the lube shop said that the coolant was low. I mentioned that I thought this was strange since I just had the compressor fixed and the guy and the quick lube just shrugged and I paid to top off the coolant. The next morning we set out towards home- 1200 more miles.
About 100 miles into the trip I noticed the A/C didn't seem to be blowing very cold. It was cool. Not cold. It was better after we stopped the car for lunch and that lasted for about 5 miles. When we stopped, our car was leaking copious amounts of fluids from both the engine and the passenger rear side of the car. By about 300 miles into the trip, the rear AC wasn't blowing at all. By 500 miles in NOTHING WAS BLOWING. Still leaking tons of fluids. Seemingly water.
We drove through the night with complaints of heat from the kids. Parked the car in the driveway. I moved the car into the garage... and I turned on the A/c to see if it was now working. The engine started to scream and smoke was rising from the hood. This didn't stop when I turned off the A/C.
The next morning, the battery was dead again. I had it towed to our mechanic. Other than the battery he could find nothing wrong. No noises. no smoke. A/C blowing AND it's blowing cold. Possible leak from the compressor (which I told him was under warranty from the guys who put it in and asked him not to touch it). They charged the battery.
I drove it to the A/C guys (A/C is blowing fine). They admit the A/C isn't as cool as one might hope. They drive it. Seems fine. Possible Coolant leak, but it's raining and they can't find the leak. They keep the car overnight. The Battery is dead the next morning. They replace the battery with a loaner. I'm desperate for my car. I pick it up and agree to bring it back in a few days to have them check the coolant levels and the battery.
NOW... Car starts, but it seems sluggish. The car revs like a formula 1 race car from 1st gear through 4th (maybe). The A/C is blowing cold (What the?? Blowing and cold?). Still leaking a lot of fluids (condensation?). Why? AND the check engine light has never gone on. What is wrong with my car???
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The coolant is leaking from the gasket that is on the front of the engine. My repair guy suggested that I also do the timing belt at the same time. Do I have any other options? The Honda has 217,000 miles on it.
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Last week I drove my 2007 Honda Odyssey with about 100k on a 4 hour trek in the cold, and all of the sudden the heat stopped working. The fans were blowing, but warm air was not coming out. It was Christmas eve and nothing I could really do about it, so let it be. Drove another 10 minutes that night with no heat to my destination, and many hours later still Christmas eve I drove another 15 minutes. Heat didn't work, but car operated just fine.
Christmas day, drove the car for about 20 minutes with no heat, and all of the sudden the temperature gauge skyrockets, and the engine light goes on, the car is clearly overheating (could smell smoke from the engine). Let the car cool for the rest of the day, check it and there is no coolant at all. Had a local mechanic check some other things like the thermostat but found nothing, so refilled the coolant, and drove 4 hours again with no problems--heat works and everything. I was expecting to have to stop all the time to refill the coolant, but didn't have to because it never leaked on the entire trip. I took the car to the Honda dealer and they check it and find no leaks and nothing else wrong with the car, and offer no explanation on how the coolant magically disappeared, only confirming that they cleaned coolant which had leaked/spilled all over. The only possible explanation was that I had some work done on the car a few months ago (new belts) and the mechanic I used didn't flush the coolant properly.
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I just received this car as a freebie but it has come with an issue or two. The most pressing is a cooling issue. They gave it to me with the words, "The radiator leaks". Upon some testing this doesn't seem to be the whole picture.
1) If I fill the radiator up, leave the car parked over night, the next morning the radiator is still full. so I assume it is leaking from steam venting or from something else.
2) The car overheats very fast when the AC is on and the vehicle is stopped. Within about 10 minutes it went through every drop in the radiator.
3) When driving with the AC fan on medium speed, it can go a solid 30-45 minutes with no issue.
4) If I turn the AC fan on to high it takes a matter of minutes for it to begin to over heat.
A friend mentioned something about a weeper valve? I know very little about cars. So if there was any insight as to what it may be that would be excellent.
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When I had my oil changed, I was told that a "Main Bolt" needed to be replaced because it was starting to leak oil. He said that there was a sealant of some type on it that was wearing away and that even though I see no evidence of an oil leak, I would soon. He said that one of the axles would have to be removed to replace it.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey with 260,000 miles on it. It started randomly overheating this hot summer we have been having. We change the thermostat and flushed the coolant/radiator and still overheats. I do not see any leaking on the garage floor but am loosing coolant and need to put more in about every 14 days. I do a lot of highway driving. What should I look at next?
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The heater fan runs fine. Cold air comes out of all the vents (defroster, floor, dash). There is plenty of coolant in the system, and my mechanic advises the engine is running at the correct temperature. The heater hoses at the firewall are warm/hot as if coolant is flowing through. Flushed the heater core (but that didn't fix the problem). My mechanic now wants to drill some holes in the duct work to see if there is a mouse nest or some other obstruction.
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My 2006 Honda Odyssey lost the a/c last week. No cold air. After troubleshooting myself, I took it to the shop I use and they came up with it being the compressor clutch. But you can just replace the clutch, so a new compressor. My question is... What's a good price for this repair? In this vehicle the compressor replacement requires the alternator, etc... To come out first before you can even get to the compressor. So, I'm not really excited enough about it to do it myself. Which I think could, except for the discharging the refrigerant.
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I have been having problems with a loud whining noise when I steer in cold weather (approx 35 degrees F) and only after the car has warmed up. Now, before everyone tells me about the Honda Service bulletin addressing this problem, I will tell you I had the Power Steering reservoir replaced at 65K miles, per the service bulletin. However, the problem came BACK after another 35K on the van. The dealership then replaced the inlet pipe O-ring on the power steering pump which ended up NOT fixing the problem. So I still have a fairly new power steering reservoir, a new O-ring AND the loud whine. Am I doomed to replace this every 35K miles or is there some other problem that is buried deeper than the PS reservoir? (And the loud whine you hear really is coming from the van....but soon I might be joining it.)
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When the weather gets to below freezing and I start my van in the morning the brake pedal will not push down no matter how hard I push. The first time this happened I was moving and had no brakes for seconds. Luckily no one was in front of me. If I warm the van up just a couple of minutes I can feel it release and then the brakes are fine. I've taken it to the Honda dealer twice and also an independent mechanic and no one can find anything wrong with my brakes. I know I can wait until the van warms up but should this situation be happening? I never experience this in my Caravan or any other vehicle.
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I have a honda odyssey 07. I just I just got an alignment done on Tuesday night. I think it drove okay. I sent my car to Costco last night to get 2 new front tires replaced. Took the local road home last night and didn't notice anything wrong. As soon as I hit the freeway, I noticed my car vibrates uncontrollably when I accelerate at the speed btwn 65-70 mph. However, it seems okay when my feet are off the gas pedal. Should I stop driving? I would like to know if my car is safe.
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We have had this problem for about two years now. We finally took the car to the dealership and they, without being able to duplicate it, recommended to change the sliding door roller for the price tag of $375. We did and it did not fix the problem. We took it back few times and the popping noise did not take place while there and left the dealership without a solution. We finally took it back today armed with a video on my iPhone displaying the problem (popping audio included). We left it with them and lo and behold they said that they were now able to duplicate the problem and they are able to fix it by replacing not two but three latches.
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2007 Honda Odyssey with power sliding rear doors. One door (pass side) skips when closing, but only when the van is pointing down hit. Seems to work ok when van is level or pointing uphill. Skipping - the door starts closing, stutters, keeps going, 2-3 times. Usually the door closes, but sometimes it stops and reopens. Is this the motor or some other part/problem?
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Sometimes my van won't start in Park and the brake is depressed. I had the ignition switch replaced but no improvement. I have now found that the car will start in Neutral. Is it possible the neutral-safety switch is faulty or is it likely to be something else?
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My 2007 Honda Odyssey has problems with the A/C blower. When I turn the AC on, the vents have nice cold air coming from the passenger side if the car, but the driver side is warm. It's not until about 20 minutes in, that the drivers side finally cools to the right temperature. Both drivers side and passenger side temperatures are synced together at the same temperature on the dash panel. Why would this happen? Isn't there just one compressor and one blower mechanism??
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I have a 2007 Odyssey. Honda already recalled it once for brake issues. It has 44000 miles and we already changed brake pads once. Now again beakes are filling soft and have to press hard. what should I do?
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My wife was recently driving our 2007 Honda Odyssey on the highway at approximately 60mph when the van suddenly and significantly decelerated. It did this while my wife had her foot on the accelerator and without her activating the brakes. It occured twice in quick succession and then the van returned to normal operation. She did not notice an increase in rpms or hear any loud noises. After this happened, I took the van to the local Honda dealer and they could not find anything wrong with the vehicle. They made an educated guess that it might be the beginning signs of a transmission failure. The van has 72000 miles on it. I am concerned about the safety implications if this were to happen again...
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A couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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Less than 30 days ago, replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Arm Bushings, and Power Steering High Pressure Hose on my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Today, my wife noticed the engine was noisier than usual, then suddenly became stranded on the roadside when the power steering went out; at the same time a "Check Charging System" error displayed on the panel. The van was within walking distance of home. I got it home and checked the engine, finding the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir to be nearly empty (far lower than the minimum line).
My questions - am I right to think Honda blew it? Does the above scenario sound like they simply forgot to refill the fluid after their repair? Or other? If negligence, what sort of damage may have resulted that I should be on the lookout for? Finally, why is the "Check Charging System" light coming on as a result of this?
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My 2001 Civic sedan coolant reservoir was full after a long drive - with coolant blown out from the top. I am trying to isolate the problem.
1) I Did not notice if temperature gauge rose above the mid-point on the gauge.
2) I Discovered issue after 120+ drive on a hot day (90 degrees plus).
3) The car has almost 230,000 miles.
4) About 1,500 miles prior to this incident I removed my drive belt and replaced it with the shorter drive belt to circumvent the A/C compressor as it or the compressor clutch crapped out on me.
5) The morning after this occurred the coolant reservoir was still ful.
6) I removed the radiator cap and ran the engine for about 15-20 minutes. During this time I noticed the coolant in the radiator begin to rise into the fill neck area of the radiator - no bubbles or movement other than up into the neck area. The top hose was warm and then got hot but it seemed the bottom hose remained cold. I then throttled the gas briefly and nothing happened to include the radiator remaining off. The temperature gauge read just below the mi-point. I then throttled up to about 3,000 RPMs and coolant blew out of the radiator – about 1/2 to 1 liter of coolant came out. At that point, I shut everything down, installed the radiator cap, and cleaned up the coolant. I noticed the bottom hose appeared to now be much warmer than before the coolant blew out. The next morning the coolant reservoir was empty.
7) Today, about one week later, I applied power at both fans and both worked. I checked the relays and both registered no continuity across terminals 1 and 2 - as they should. I checked the radiator fan switch for continuity when cold and there was NO continuity across the contacts - as it should. I ran the engine for about 20 minutes with the radiator cap installed. The temperature reading rose to just below midpoint (normal) and stayed there. Radiator fan had not come on yet. I throttled up and nothing. Idled for several minutes and the temperature gauge rose to about ¾ of the way to “H.” I throttled the engine to look for smoke from the tailpipe – there was none (there is no history of any kind of smoke coming from the exhaust of my civic). I throttled up again, the temperature gauge dropped quickly below the mid-point, and the radiator fan came on for the first time. After the fan kicked off the temperature gauge again rose to ¾. I hit the gas, the temperature gauge dropped quickly to below mid-point, and then the fan came on again.
I was thinking this could be a blown head gasket but now I am questioning my initial thoughts. As of right now there is no coolant in the reservoir. One would think if the head gasket was blown that I would continue to get fluid in the reservoir even with the lost ~1 liter from my earlier test. I checked my engine oil dipstick and it looks clean - just oil. Nothing unusual visible when oil fill cap removed. Wy my coolant reservoir would have filled, blown over, not empty when cooled, only to empty out by the next morning after blowing 1/2 to 1 liter. This has been a loyal car (other than the recent loss of A/C) and I would like to see if I can get 250,000+ miles out of her with no serious maintenance.
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