2007 Honda Odyssey with power sliding rear doors. One door (pass side) skips when closing, but only when the van is pointing down hit. Seems to work ok when van is level or pointing uphill. Skipping - the door starts closing, stutters, keeps going, 2-3 times. Usually the door closes, but sometimes it stops and reopens. Is this the motor or some other part/problem?
View 2 RepliesWe have had this problem for about two years now. We finally took the car to the dealership and they, without being able to duplicate it, recommended to change the sliding door roller for the price tag of $375. We did and it did not fix the problem. We took it back few times and the popping noise did not take place while there and left the dealership without a solution. We finally took it back today armed with a video on my iPhone displaying the problem (popping audio included). We left it with them and lo and behold they said that they were now able to duplicate the problem and they are able to fix it by replacing not two but three latches.
View 3 RepliesA couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Odyssey. It consistently, randomly skips during acceleration. Have brought it to Honda and they said nothing is findable. Another mechanic tried to sell me an engine mount, stating that this was the cause. At this point, brought it to Honda to have this verified. They scoffed and said the guy was nuts and that my engine mount was fine.
As for the skipping, the only other way I can describe the feeling is like tires spinning on ice, but without the sound of spinning tires, just that jumping over ice feeling. It happens when I accelerate from a stop, or even while I'm on the highway, as I go from a steady speed to an increased speed. It sounds like a jump in the engine.
I keep thinking TRANSMISSION! But as I've said, I have brought it to two mechanics with no answer! VERY FRUSTRATING. The skipping has been going on randomly for years.
Also, the D and engine light started over the summer, behaving consistently randomly, usually a day after I have pumped gas. It then shuts off on its own after some random amount of time. Honda reset the computer panel and denied any problems. I'm not surprised, and yet I am.
On a separate note, I was an idiot and drove on hot tar! I wasn't paying attention to the tar trucks. Did I ruin my tires?!
We have a 2010 honda Odyssey and we are experiencing some air conditioning problems. The ac went out on us about 6 months ago so we had the compressor replaced. A few weeks after that the ac would intermittently start blowing warm air. We took it back to the shop and they noted that the compressor was shutting off for some reason. They replaced the compressor again, but we are still experiencing the same problem. It will just start blowing warm air for about 15-20 minutes then it will start blowing cold again. This will happen about once every 2-3 days. We replaced the relay, but that didn't work. They have checked for leaks, recharged the compressor and checked the freon and still nothing.
View 7 RepliesFront Blower Motor does not work. 2005 Honda Odyssey, EX-L130,000 miles and I expect at least 170,000 miles more.
History – Over the past four years, the front blower motor has operated intermittently. I noticed that when the weather went through large changes (warm/humid to cold/dry or vice versa), the fbm would not run. The system behaved in the manner described by Honda owners in many of the forums online. After a period of time passed, the blower would function properly again until the next weather change.
About two months ago, the blower stopped working again and it has not returned to form since. The system again displays all the usual symptoms reported on-line. The rear blower works fine.
The controls on the dash seem to be fine (display changes appropriately as I select settings, vents open and close for heat or A/C or which vents I want open). Air flows through the vents selected when I am driving – I have a passive windshield defroster!
Here are the steps that I have taken during the past week:
1.Bought a new transistor/resistor module, OEM Honda Part #79330-SDG-W41 (I checked with a local dealer for the correct part number). I installed it but there is no change in the system.
2.I found information on-line to test the T/R. I checked the old one – Thermal Cut Out is intact and the resistance between posts 3 & 4 (lower pair when installed) is 1,500 ohms. I checked the new transistor and it read out the same.
3.Fuses, relays, power to the blower, blower, ground beyond the transistor are all fine.
4.I reconnected the T/R and fbm and let the fbm lay on the car floor. I started the car with the fan on. Each time I start the car (or turned the ignition ‘On’) the fbm tries to run, but stops in an instant.
The Rat is cornered – it's in the the T/R and the control signal from the control panel to the T/R corner. If I bypass these elements, the fbm goes on and off as I select the fan On/Off from the control panel.
The passenger-side automatic door on my 2005 odyssey will not close 75% of the time. It doesn't matter if I use the button on the dash, the door handle, or the button on the fob. The door will start to close until it has about 6 inches left to go, and then the door will make a loud clunking sound and beep as it opens up again. I've tried turning the automatic switch off on the dashboard and shutting it manually, and it won't close that way either. I can't budge it. The only way I've been able to get it to close when it's like this is by turning the car back on, putting it into drive, and then closing using the button on the dashboard. It will still start to open up, but I can get it to close by pushing the button again, although it jerks and closes very reluctantly.
View 2 Replies2002 Honda Odyssey ... While driving back from work I noticed that the Battery, brake and all door light lights are on and it will not go away. I have tried restarting it and it didn't worked. BTW this happened about two weeks ago also but that time it went away after I restarted the van. I read somewhere that this could be because of corrosion/lose battery connection so I cleaned the battery terminals with baking soda but that didn't worked either. Also I didn't noticed any problems with driving it seems to be running fine.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
View 6 RepliesI have a honda odyssey 07. I just I just got an alignment done on Tuesday night. I think it drove okay. I sent my car to Costco last night to get 2 new front tires replaced. Took the local road home last night and didn't notice anything wrong. As soon as I hit the freeway, I noticed my car vibrates uncontrollably when I accelerate at the speed btwn 65-70 mph. However, it seems okay when my feet are off the gas pedal. Should I stop driving? I would like to know if my car is safe.
View 7 RepliesWhat caused this. The attached pictures show what looks like melted plastic on the window frame to the right side rear passenger door. I noticed the damage after running errands one morning. What might have caused this? Any thing electrical inside the car or external?
View 18 RepliesSometimes my van won't start in Park and the brake is depressed. I had the ignition switch replaced but no improvement. I have now found that the car will start in Neutral. Is it possible the neutral-safety switch is faulty or is it likely to be something else?
View 4 RepliesMy 2007 Honda Odyssey has problems with the A/C blower. When I turn the AC on, the vents have nice cold air coming from the passenger side if the car, but the driver side is warm. It's not until about 20 minutes in, that the drivers side finally cools to the right temperature. Both drivers side and passenger side temperatures are synced together at the same temperature on the dash panel. Why would this happen? Isn't there just one compressor and one blower mechanism??
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Odyssey. Honda already recalled it once for brake issues. It has 44000 miles and we already changed brake pads once. Now again beakes are filling soft and have to press hard. what should I do?
View 3 RepliesMy wife was recently driving our 2007 Honda Odyssey on the highway at approximately 60mph when the van suddenly and significantly decelerated. It did this while my wife had her foot on the accelerator and without her activating the brakes. It occured twice in quick succession and then the van returned to normal operation. She did not notice an increase in rpms or hear any loud noises. After this happened, I took the van to the local Honda dealer and they could not find anything wrong with the vehicle. They made an educated guess that it might be the beginning signs of a transmission failure. The van has 72000 miles on it. I am concerned about the safety implications if this were to happen again...
View 6 RepliesLast week I drove my 2007 Honda Odyssey with about 100k on a 4 hour trek in the cold, and all of the sudden the heat stopped working. The fans were blowing, but warm air was not coming out. It was Christmas eve and nothing I could really do about it, so let it be. Drove another 10 minutes that night with no heat to my destination, and many hours later still Christmas eve I drove another 15 minutes. Heat didn't work, but car operated just fine.
Christmas day, drove the car for about 20 minutes with no heat, and all of the sudden the temperature gauge skyrockets, and the engine light goes on, the car is clearly overheating (could smell smoke from the engine). Let the car cool for the rest of the day, check it and there is no coolant at all. Had a local mechanic check some other things like the thermostat but found nothing, so refilled the coolant, and drove 4 hours again with no problems--heat works and everything. I was expecting to have to stop all the time to refill the coolant, but didn't have to because it never leaked on the entire trip. I took the car to the Honda dealer and they check it and find no leaks and nothing else wrong with the car, and offer no explanation on how the coolant magically disappeared, only confirming that they cleaned coolant which had leaked/spilled all over. The only possible explanation was that I had some work done on the car a few months ago (new belts) and the mechanic I used didn't flush the coolant properly.
Mid- july I had the compressor rebuilt when the A/C suddenly started blowing warm air one week prior to a 1200 mile road trip.
Two weeks later the car wouldn't start. The battery (still under warranty) checked out as "good" was charged up and started the car fine. It needed an oil change before we headed home and the lube shop said that the coolant was low. I mentioned that I thought this was strange since I just had the compressor fixed and the guy and the quick lube just shrugged and I paid to top off the coolant. The next morning we set out towards home- 1200 more miles.
About 100 miles into the trip I noticed the A/C didn't seem to be blowing very cold. It was cool. Not cold. It was better after we stopped the car for lunch and that lasted for about 5 miles. When we stopped, our car was leaking copious amounts of fluids from both the engine and the passenger rear side of the car. By about 300 miles into the trip, the rear AC wasn't blowing at all. By 500 miles in NOTHING WAS BLOWING. Still leaking tons of fluids. Seemingly water.
We drove through the night with complaints of heat from the kids. Parked the car in the driveway. I moved the car into the garage... and I turned on the A/c to see if it was now working. The engine started to scream and smoke was rising from the hood. This didn't stop when I turned off the A/C.
The next morning, the battery was dead again. I had it towed to our mechanic. Other than the battery he could find nothing wrong. No noises. no smoke. A/C blowing AND it's blowing cold. Possible leak from the compressor (which I told him was under warranty from the guys who put it in and asked him not to touch it). They charged the battery.
I drove it to the A/C guys (A/C is blowing fine). They admit the A/C isn't as cool as one might hope. They drive it. Seems fine. Possible Coolant leak, but it's raining and they can't find the leak. They keep the car overnight. The Battery is dead the next morning. They replace the battery with a loaner. I'm desperate for my car. I pick it up and agree to bring it back in a few days to have them check the coolant levels and the battery.
NOW... Car starts, but it seems sluggish. The car revs like a formula 1 race car from 1st gear through 4th (maybe). The A/C is blowing cold (What the?? Blowing and cold?). Still leaking a lot of fluids (condensation?). Why? AND the check engine light has never gone on. What is wrong with my car???
I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
Less than 30 days ago, replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Arm Bushings, and Power Steering High Pressure Hose on my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Today, my wife noticed the engine was noisier than usual, then suddenly became stranded on the roadside when the power steering went out; at the same time a "Check Charging System" error displayed on the panel. The van was within walking distance of home. I got it home and checked the engine, finding the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir to be nearly empty (far lower than the minimum line).
My questions - am I right to think Honda blew it? Does the above scenario sound like they simply forgot to refill the fluid after their repair? Or other? If negligence, what sort of damage may have resulted that I should be on the lookout for? Finally, why is the "Check Charging System" light coming on as a result of this?
I can not find details on adjusting the stops/sliders/ apparatus in this power sliding door mechanisms in the Haynes manual.
How to re-align or adjust these things? mine is not latching properly at the rear securing point 100% of the time.